Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by RogerC

  1. Thanks, everyone. The smallest size I've tried is: #006 ID:1/8" x OD:1/4" CS:1/16" and it's damn small and hard to get on, but still too big. Mine are hard, though, 70 durometer, maybe something softer would mash flat and make it into the bore. The 007 is a size bigger, guess I'll try a 005. Hey Bill... if there is one fundamental truth in rocket science, it's getting the right size oring, believe me.
  2. The o-rings on my fiber optic cable rotted and fell off. I replaced them with the smallest, thinnest, o-rings I had, but no luck: the new o-rings are so large or so stiff that I can't get them inserted anymore. I took the o-rings off, but now they are really loose and just falling out. I hold them in with blue tape, hair ties, whatever I can find. Nothing works well. Any tips? I think I need to find a source for really small o-rings with a really soft durometer.
  3. Regarding using spray silicone on housings and buttons, 2 issues: I've heard that it can cause a problem with lexan housings, it can permanently fog or distort the surface. Not sure if that's true and I can't find any reference on it right now. It's too thin and runny. Yeah, that can help it get down the shaft to the oring, but you want a thick grease that stays in place, not a thin runny product that can evaporate. It's like replacing the axle grease on your car's wheel bearings with wd40. It's just not gonna last that long, and it will dissolve the thicker grease if you ever try to go back to the good stuff, so you'll have to clean the thin stuff off if you want to get the thick stuff to stick. So how do you get the thick grease to migrate on the button shaft and get to the oring? Warm up your housing. Not hot, just warm. Soak it in warm water. I've had a lot of housings over the years. Ikelite, olympus, nauticam, gates, light & motion, sealife... for me a sticky button is just a sign that the button needs service, the lube has worn off. Sounds like a more serious issue for others if it's happening right after a service. When I'm on a trip and need a quick and dirty fix, what I do to service them is to mop some oring lube onto the button shaft on the inside. Warm up the housing, push the button in, and on the inside of the housing, mop some silicon grease onto the shaft and then push the button about a million times until the grease migrates up the shaft onto the oring. I use the edge of a business card to get the lube onto the shaft as close to the hole as possible. I use a lot, I try to build up a fillet of grease all around the hole so the shaft will drag it in as it works. It makes a mess. I clean it up after with a q tip. When I'm home, I just remove the e-clip with a pair of bent needles nose pliers, remove the button and the rings, clean and grease everything, and re-assemble. DO NOT DO THIS THE NIGHT BEFORE A TRIP. DO NOT DO THIS WITHOUT TIME TO GET SPARE E-CLIPS AND ORINGS. YOU WILL LOSE ONE. I CANNOT SAY THIS LOUDLY ENOUGH: YOU WILL ABSOLUTELY LOSE AN E-CLIP EVERY TIME YOU TRY TO DO THIS. DONT DO THIS WITHOUT SPARES ON HAND, OR WITHOUT THE TIME TO ORDER A REPLACEMENT CLIP. These tiny parts jump around and get lost, I don't care how careful you are. The e-clips get bent, sometimes you can bend them back into shape, not always. Some say they should always be replaced. If you are going to try this, you are going to need to have spares on hand. Either order some e-clip and oring kits, or measure what size you need and order a bunch of them. Look on amazon for e-clip kits and oring kits. They have e-clip tools, I've always gotten by with small needle nose and heavy tweezers. McMaster-Carr has a good page (as usual) on e-clips, with dimensions of the clips and shafts, so you can easily figure out which size you need: https://www.mcmaster.com/#e-clips/=15n0fsf
  4. on my housing, the anodes are on the bottom. One on the door and one on the body. I use lanocote (lanolin) on fasteners that I want to be able to remove later. It works well, but it is like a heavy pasty grease. I worry about it migrating on to optics and orings and places I don't want it.
  5. As long as the lens fits through the hole in the housing, I'm optimistic that nauticam will find a solution. I am looking forward to it, I really prefer a rectilinear wide angle lens, the zoom out to 14/28 is nice for shy subjects, and 2.8 sure is nice. the f1.8 8mm fisheye probably makes more sense, though. Easier to swim with and will probably have sharper corners, too.
  6. A lot of old Oly gear for sale, not sure what to price it at so I went for eBay auctions. Starting price may be high, not sure what this stuff is worth anymore. if that's true, they'll be lower next time or PM me with an offer. PT-015 housing for C5050 PT-E02 housing (E330 housing) PT-E05 housing (E520 housing) PPO-EO2 flat port for 14-54mm PPO-E04 dome port for 8mm (or 7-14mm with extension) Athena flat port for 50mm lens, with 67mm front thread PER-E01 port extension PER-E02 port extension Oly bodies: E1, E330, E520, Pen E-PM1 Tetra flat port Ikelite DS125 Ikelite EV Controller Ikelite extension cord http://www.ebay.com/sch/jollyroj/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
  7. I'm looking for a video light, and really like the completely sealed Solas... but I rented a fix neo, and really like the display of run time remaining and the ability to change output by smaller increments when needed. Has anyone had any flooding issues with them? If I never, ever opened it, would it be as "factory sealed" as a sola? would there be any salt water trapped in the mating surfaces that would build corrosion or mineral deposits and cause trouble down the road? thanks.
  8. I have the acrylic nauticam 4.33 port, and I did manage to scratch it pretty badly right dead center. The 8mm lens is really eager to focus on the scuff, especially in blue water without any other obvious subject. Whale shark coming? yeah, here's a photo of your dome. I've managed to buff it out, but the dome is so small that it's a little hard to work on. The abrasive kits remove the bad scuff, but then leave a bigger ring of slightly less scuff, which the next abrasive can take out, but then the circle bigger, on to the next abrasive.... it gets harder near the edges to work the abrasive smoothly, and I find it much easier to do on big domes. Your milage may vary. Personally, I'd go glass at the athena price point but not at the zen price point.
  9. The water was warm last summer as well. Around los angeles there were many warm water sightings: dorado, wahoo, scalloped hammerheads, green turtles, even a whale shark. One cause I heard was not el nino, but that a different mechanism kept the water warm in the 2013/2014 winter. That's certainly true again right now. SoI'd guess that 2015 will be like 2014. And the Solmar publishes video trip reports on their youtube channel. You might look at the trip reports from last may and see if it looks good. We did Cocos during an el nino, and the hammerheads weren't schooling, we'd only see a few at a time. It was still an incredible trip.
  10. How big a dome? there can be a lot of square inches there, 3 psi over a dome 10" across is 78 pounds of force.
  11. Also from half dot com. http://product.half.ebay.com/In-Water-Photography-Theory-and-Practice-by-Lawrence-E-Mertens-1970-Hardcover/1584179&cpid=3514334
  12. some great points, thanks. It makes me take another look at the quality of the 60mm macro vs the 50mm macro. I never read any comparisons because I so love the 50mm, and the 60mm was the only choice for the OMD, that I didn't want to hear that the 60mm didn't stand up well to the 50. The 50 is such a great lens that if I were building a macro rig, and the 60 was not as pretty, I'd go for the EM-1 for a macro rig just to build a rig around the 50.. love the small size of the em-5 for wide angle. I swim a lot when I'm shooting wide.
  13. oly page: http://www.getolympus.com/us/en/e-m1.html?utm_content=introducing&utm_campaign=em1&utm_source=email_etprm&utm_medium=email Good summary, interesting stuff on better focus with older lenses: http://thedigitalstory.com/2013/09/new-olympus-om-d-e-m1-camera.html looks too different to fit in the same housing. Price drop on the EM-5 by $100 for body only right now. That sale ends 9/14, not sure if there will be a permanent price drop or if they're selling both cameras or what. http://www.getolympus.com/us/en/digitalcameras/pen-omd/e-m5.html
  14. DeepBlueMD: how did you tighten that ball? did you just bottom it out hard or did you somehow tighten the locking collar? Mine is loose and spins. I'm afraid to bottom it out so hard that it locks, and I cant get a wrench on the collar, so any strobe I put on it just swings around. troporobo: thanks for the macro shots! I dont normally use ttl but it would be nice to have the option. Deep6: Backscatter is a problem with a ring flash. Best to fill your frame with a subject that hides it. The bigger problem for me is that you need to use depth of field to separate your subject from the background. The wrong subject and big depth of field is you can wind up with a very flat dull image. Its a fun challenge and a very compact rig. Jock: Never had the RS tray, but I liked my pivot tray. You can get low with it since the main tray is on top, not on the bottom.
  15. Hi, First, I just want to mention that the gopro 2 is far ahead of the 1 on firmware. Much easier to use, much easier (automatic) to update. And the wifi back and iphone software are even better, a total must have. Every camera should have that power, it's amazing. a full interface for your camera including live view on your iphone or iPad! The gopro3 should be even better. to your questions: 1-don't know. 2- I split, but I like viewfinders, I'm old. 3-don't know. 4-yes. it's pretty easy to get moved by surge, and going for more DoF and smaller aperture gets you into diffraction problems. The DoF on the small oly 4/3 sensor is a little too short for my taste. Just my opinion. 5-filters are better than post processing. You have too much blue light coming in, you need to knock that down so the blue and red are more balanced and the limited dynamic range of your sensor can take a decent photo. Might be darker, but it's balanced.
  16. I don't have a 60mm yet. Just curious, anyone having any luck with ttl with macro? optical or electrical? P/A/S/M? what strobe? thanks.
  17. regarding the 12-50, I do dislike motorized zoom for stills, but it is the way to go for video, and it may surprise you how much video you start to shoot. regarding the 7-14, i vastly prefer rectilinear to fisheye, but after shooting the regular (not micro) oly zuiko 7-14mm for years and never getting sharp corners, I'm pretty happy with the sharpness of the little m4/3 8mm... not to mention the cost and size of the lens and dome. The old athena dome I used with my 7-14 was pretty small, but it feels like a bus windshield now. Regarding lenses in general, think how you shoot and what you shoot. On his E330, I think I can say that jim used his oly 14-54 lens 90% of the time. I took mine in the water once. Different styles. I have no interest in taking my 12-50 in the water due to that port price, I'll probably even sell the lens. Only bought it because I had to buy a kit to get the camera early (anyone want it? email me an offer). But that 60mm macro, can't wait until that comes out. The other lens I really want is that tiny new ultra pancake 15mm so I can carry the camera in my pocket all the time on land.
  18. Size comparison photos. Canon 5D mark 2 and 16-35 zoom, (no shade, guess I should have left it on for the photo) Olympus E520 and 7-14 zoom (with shade, it's not removable) Olympus OM-D EM-5 and 8mm lens (with shade, it's not removable) yeah, the 8mm isn't a zoom, so it's not exactly apples to apples, but damn it's small. in case I didn't get the linking right, they are here: http://www.rogercarlsonphotography.com/Gear/OM-D-EM-5-size-comparison/24217490_cWh5jD
  19. I still have the used one for sale. Please contact me with a PM if you're interested. I've been telling people one by one why I'm selling them, and rather than keep that up, i'll just post it here. Despite the great things others have said about them, my luck has not been so good. On the first trip we took these on, one lost its wheels and axle when we had to check it at heathrow. The company sent us replacement parts, free, no problem, after we got home. On the second trip, one case's handle could not handle the trial of going through a carryon xray machine. It got a little bump, and that was that, it would not lock up or down, it just flopped around. It came off. This time the company replaced the whole case. That's how I got the new one. They never left the house again; I won't get fooled again. I'm not sure which one had the axle problem, the used one I still have or the used one that got returned. I'm not sure it matters. The axle is as good as the original one. The damage was always caused by handlers and machines, not me. Despite my bad luck with these, others have had great luck and love them. I'm selling this for about half the original price, I'll take $175 for it.
  20. I like you, Ryan, but I like your stuff more.
  21. In my circle of friends, there are tens of thousands of dives and only 2 first hand white shark sightings.
  22. My enjoyment of the scuba show has varied over the years. First couple years, I just walked around. Then for a couple years I took a lot of seminars, almost all of them, but back then Jim Church was alive and it was easy to take everything he taught. Good to see they have Marty Snyderman back again, he was absent for a few years. The seminars tend to be the same year after year, so I got tired of that and was kind of getting tired of the show, but then one year I was looking for a new BC, the next year I was looking for a new macro lens, and on it went. The nighttime casino party used to be more fun when the whole show was in the queen mary, it was in a big ballroom, it was big and classy. I haven't been to it since it moved. Now I spend the whole weekend there, mostly because my wife has a booth (523, JuJeeBeads), but also because I run into so many old friends that I spend half the time talking. I've never really gotten into all the vacation booths, but I certainly spend plenty of time at the photo booths. This year the usuals will be there, Reef Photo, Ikelite, Backscatter, Fantasea, Inon, Aquatica, Olympus... I'm probably missing some. This is the only time ULCS stuff is sold at a discount and I always need something. This year I'm interested in the Oxycheq booth, they always have some interesting stuff: small wings, big floats. Heard they have an inexpensive yet bright and small LED light and a new small backpack. I'm also interested in the data logger at the ReefNet booth; I had a couple of dive computers fail at the same time and lost some dives I was too lazy to record. I also have to talk to Olympus, I'd like to see the E520 PT-05 housing and I'm still certain the E4x0 PT-03 housing is flawed. I'm also interested in LED video lights, I especially want to see the new L&M ones. And then I usually stand around the ReefPhoto booth until they stop paying attention to me and I can walk off with stuff. Here's the Oxycheq light link. Be sure to watch the youtube video. I want to see it in person. It looks narrow, but that's OK for what I want: http://oxycheq.com/Oxycheq/Torch-Backup.html This is also a good time to buy a set of Doc's proplugs, they have all the sizes and a sizing template. These things really make my ears happier on multiday trips. I don't clear as early or often as I should. The food at the bar in the hallway outside the show is usually better, but there are lots of good options to the west of the convention center now, outside. $2 off admission coupons are easy to get, any shop with CDN's should have them. They don't sell stuff at the show because they don't want the show to compete with local dive shops. Some specialty stuff will be for sale. The official policy: RETAIL SALES POLICY SCUBA Show 2008 prohibits all “cash & carry†transactions involving the retail distribution of diving equipment during the show. This policy is intended to cover all retail merchandise items normally considered “diving equipment†(tanks, weight belts & weights, wetsuits and their accessories, dry suits and their accessories, lycra suits, masks, snorkels, fins, regulators, B.C.s, dive computers and gauges.). Prices on dive gear may not be posted. Prices on dive gear may only be distributed if they are a part of a general brochure. This policy does not cover vacation, travel, scuba courses, artwork, posters, photographs, bags, clothing, books, jewelry, boats, kayaks, compressors, DVDs, cameras and accessories, knives, lights, and watches. If you intend to sell items not specifically covered herein, you must get prior written approval from SCUBA Show 2008. All retail sales are subject to the confines of all applicable local, state, federal, and tax laws. The retail sales policy will be strictly enforced in the exhibit hall.
  23. New one's been sold. I'm contacting other potential buyers in chronological order (some were by PM, some by posts here). Thanks.
  24. For sale, two standard Porter Case II standard cases. 1 new in box, $250 OBO, 1 used, $200 OBO. List price, $317. No foam or inserts. Sorry, typo in my title, I only have 2 total cases for sale. This is a hard sided wheeled case, about the max legal carryon size, 14"x22"x8". The handle unlatches to turn the case into the bottom deck of a handcart to carry your other luggage, up to 200 pounds. for more info: http://www.portercase.com/
  • Create New...