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RogerC

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Everything posted by RogerC

  1. My enjoyment of the scuba show has varied over the years. First couple years, I just walked around. Then for a couple years I took a lot of seminars, almost all of them, but back then Jim Church was alive and it was easy to take everything he taught. Good to see they have Marty Snyderman back again, he was absent for a few years. The seminars tend to be the same year after year, so I got tired of that and was kind of getting tired of the show, but then one year I was looking for a new BC, the next year I was looking for a new macro lens, and on it went. The nighttime casino party used to be more fun when the whole show was in the queen mary, it was in a big ballroom, it was big and classy. I haven't been to it since it moved. Now I spend the whole weekend there, mostly because my wife has a booth (523, JuJeeBeads), but also because I run into so many old friends that I spend half the time talking. I've never really gotten into all the vacation booths, but I certainly spend plenty of time at the photo booths. This year the usuals will be there, Reef Photo, Ikelite, Backscatter, Fantasea, Inon, Aquatica, Olympus... I'm probably missing some. This is the only time ULCS stuff is sold at a discount and I always need something. This year I'm interested in the Oxycheq booth, they always have some interesting stuff: small wings, big floats. Heard they have an inexpensive yet bright and small LED light and a new small backpack. I'm also interested in the data logger at the ReefNet booth; I had a couple of dive computers fail at the same time and lost some dives I was too lazy to record. I also have to talk to Olympus, I'd like to see the E520 PT-05 housing and I'm still certain the E4x0 PT-03 housing is flawed. I'm also interested in LED video lights, I especially want to see the new L&M ones. And then I usually stand around the ReefPhoto booth until they stop paying attention to me and I can walk off with stuff. Here's the Oxycheq light link. Be sure to watch the youtube video. I want to see it in person. It looks narrow, but that's OK for what I want: http://oxycheq.com/Oxycheq/Torch-Backup.html This is also a good time to buy a set of Doc's proplugs, they have all the sizes and a sizing template. These things really make my ears happier on multiday trips. I don't clear as early or often as I should. The food at the bar in the hallway outside the show is usually better, but there are lots of good options to the west of the convention center now, outside. $2 off admission coupons are easy to get, any shop with CDN's should have them. They don't sell stuff at the show because they don't want the show to compete with local dive shops. Some specialty stuff will be for sale. The official policy: RETAIL SALES POLICY SCUBA Show 2008 prohibits all “cash & carry†transactions involving the retail distribution of diving equipment during the show. This policy is intended to cover all retail merchandise items normally considered “diving equipment†(tanks, weight belts & weights, wetsuits and their accessories, dry suits and their accessories, lycra suits, masks, snorkels, fins, regulators, B.C.s, dive computers and gauges.). Prices on dive gear may not be posted. Prices on dive gear may only be distributed if they are a part of a general brochure. This policy does not cover vacation, travel, scuba courses, artwork, posters, photographs, bags, clothing, books, jewelry, boats, kayaks, compressors, DVDs, cameras and accessories, knives, lights, and watches. If you intend to sell items not specifically covered herein, you must get prior written approval from SCUBA Show 2008. All retail sales are subject to the confines of all applicable local, state, federal, and tax laws. The retail sales policy will be strictly enforced in the exhibit hall.
  2. New one's been sold. I'm contacting other potential buyers in chronological order (some were by PM, some by posts here). Thanks.
  3. For sale, two standard Porter Case II standard cases. 1 new in box, $250 OBO, 1 used, $200 OBO. List price, $317. No foam or inserts. Sorry, typo in my title, I only have 2 total cases for sale. This is a hard sided wheeled case, about the max legal carryon size, 14"x22"x8". The handle unlatches to turn the case into the bottom deck of a handcart to carry your other luggage, up to 200 pounds. for more info: http://www.portercase.com/
  4. I'd actually like to pay more... if they could guarantee that my bags would actually make it there, on time and safe. Let me show up a day early. Search the bag all you want. Then let me lock it, let me pay for insurance on it, give me some hope of getting it safely past the TSA and the baggage handlers and to my destination. And if you lose that bag, handing me back that $15 had better be the first thing that happens.
  5. iWatermark is excellent, then: http://www.scriptsoftware.com/iwatermark/ pretty sure you owe adobe an additional licensing fee if you want to make watermarks, or jpegs, or save files.
  6. you gotta be thinking system, though, camera and housing. I think you really want a small housing so you can swim: olympus, seatool, hugyfot. Oly is most affordable. I get both my housings, 3 camera bodies (410, 330, E1), dome port, macro port, ring flash, and a bunch of lenses, all into 1 (heavy) backpack. I regularly take two rigs in the water with me. I think that athena makes the glass for the oly dome, the inon dome, and the athena dome. I'm not 100% certain of the inon... but if it's the same diameter, it's the same glass. it's a little bigger than the 5050, but pretty close. not in hands, but: http://www.rogercarlsonphotography.com/gal..._e410_housings/ I never go over 100 asa anyway. Size. The new one is really small, 190 grams and 65.5 x 61mm, it's like an aspirin bottle. The old one is 285 grams and 71.0 x 86.5 mm Oly actually makes or made 4 lenses in this range, it's a good working range and deserves some choices. They quit making the old 14-45. There is also the 14-54 f2.8, and the 12-60 f2.8. The 14-54 is the old E1 kit lens, it's their mid grade quality, and it's weather sealed. The 12-60 is also mid grade, sealed, and has a fast swd motor, it's basically the E3 kit lens. Prices jump from around $100 for the basic kit lenses, to around 400-500 for the 14-54 and I think up close to a grand for the 12-60, not sure. They will also make a top grade 12-35 f2.0, it's not out yet. it should really rock. With f2.0 and image stabilization in body, you won't need to worry about noise, you'll never go to high iso. At least on land. I've hand-held the E510 at up to one second with acceptable results. f2.0 and one second exposures, who needs iso. http://www.rogercarlsonphotography.com/gal...021985.jpg.html But the 14-42 in the water? not thrilling to me, honestly. Some use that range, it's nice for fish portraits and faces, but I like going wide or macro. Oly has announced that they'll make a less expensive ultra wide (weitwinkel) zoom, too. Might be something for you to wait for rather than the 8mm. http://www.olympus-esystem.com/dea/product.../zuiko_lens_eng
  7. sorry, double post, something messed up in the board... keep reading:
  8. I'd plug the olympus E410 in olympus housing. The housing is small and comes with a hand strap, you can easily use only your right hand to hold the camera, take photos, and adjust either shutter speed or fstop with the wheel on the back. My hand is big enough that I can push a second button and switch what the wheel does and do both. It has an internal strobe and can use it. Body is ~$400, not sure what the housing goes for now, try reefphoto.com (site sponsor). I don't know of any other housing as small or handholdable, or even one that comes with a hand strap. More should, it's a great way to shoot. My "speed rig" which I use for sea lions and fast stuff or just fast swimming is one of these clear oly housings, with my 7-14mm lens and the dome port. I mount the camera on a ULCS tray with nothing but a quick disconnect handle. I put a single ikelite ds125 strobe on the handle. I connect an ike UV manual strobe controller to the strobe, on a 3' extension cable. The controller sensor goes on the cold shoe mount on the housing, aimed at the internal strobe. The long sync cord wraps around the port cylinder, behind the dome. When I want to take a photo, I take the strobe and handle off the tray, unwrap the cord, and fire away. This way I have a nice long arm (my own) for wide angle photos, without a bunch of junk to swim around with.
  9. there's no one answer for everyone. The system has to work the way you do. And these things have steep learning curves, you need to take the 30 day free trials and really live with the aps, really give them a fair trial. You can't back away after 5 minutes if you don't get the interface immediately. It's a hard problem, you can't expect the solution to work instantly. and this may be blasphemy, but to me there is more than just the quality of the final output. The ap also has to let you work with your photos, back them up, etc, do other things... if it gets you a great final image but it takes hours to get there, you won't get there that often.
  10. Another vote for the poseidon xstream, here. It breaths great and you don't have to make any adjustments on it during a dive, ever, you can just take photos. I've got a few hundred dives on mine and it still breaths great; I've never gone more than a year on a reg before without the reg being out of adjustment and needing service. There are few moving parts in it and the seals are a better design than most regs (a ball bearing in a cone in the 1st stage, a servo mechanism in the second. No load on the seal in the second when air pressure is off, so no wear on that seal when you're not diving. The side exhaust is nice for photography, too. And the exhaust housing is a neutral gray. When my wife is in a photo, I can use a white balance eyedropper on a photo of her on her reg to white balance.
  11. You can tweak the aperture raw converter to your liking. I do like the aperture 2.0 converter better. Not sure how to describe it, I haven't spent that much time with it yet. Donno.. more saturated, more pop, more something. Maybe smarter contrast or detail out in the wings of the histogram or something. In high speed mode, where adjustments are shut off, aperture 2.0 screams. My laptop is almost 6 years old, a 1.33 GHz G4, and I can page through raw files like they are small jpegs. No delay at all. This is fantastic for making your initial edits and selects. It's just what I want. Turning on the new raw converter and all the new stuff when you get out of high speed mode... I think it's slower than 1.1 on my laptop, but that figures, it's doing more. Overall, I'm very happy with it. And hoping they announce 17" laptops with LED screens and the new trackpad soon.
  12. is there a common name? or a pronunciation guide, at least, for the scientific name?
  13. I went to macworld. That multitouch trackpad is really nice. Spinning a photo worked just like it ought to, no lag, very intuitive, like the way a pen tablet works. I have wanted a dual processor laptop for like 10 years now. They never seem to go that way, they always lean toward greater battery life and away from power consumption.
  14. inon or athena, both have 67mm. I have epoque wet lenses, the really strong dml-2 macro lens.... tried it on my athena port over the 50mm and never again. Yeah, it's strong, yeah, it's an inexpensive lens, just a simple lens, not a achromat or apochromat, yeah it was good enough for the old 5050... but never again on my 50mm. It just messes up the image quality too much. Using the plain 50mm and cropping and stair interpolating with photoshop probably gets you an image just as good. Lower power wet lenses may work better, but of course, they will do less. I wouldn't go too crazy for that 67mm theading. But it is really nice having a more compact, streamlined port. just my 2 cents.
  15. With the 7-14, vignetting is not a problem as far as I know even with the 6" ike dome, but the corners get mushy and distorted, due to spherical aberration from the dome. I've had the problem with the 8" ike dome and the small athena dome, I'm hoping the bigger athena dome does better. Many zooms and rectilinear wide lenses have this problem. The 50mm oly lens is stunning. It's a beautiful lens. You won't want to use the sigma once you try it, and if you want more power you can add the 1.4 or 2.0 teleconverters. An f2 lens, it will focus very well even in dark water.
  16. Phil, I didn't know the 220 was shipping yet. Are the corners sharp on the 7-14 with it?
  17. I don't know about the E3, but the E1 it's based on has been proven to take a lot. People have briefly dropped them into shallow streams, completely submerged them. I've rinsed mine off in the sink after shooting on the beach on windy days (it's fine), and that stream of water has some pressure behind it. True, a full flood has significant pressure differential, but a minor flood, a drippy leak, doesn't.
  18. This lens, and the D3 in general, are really exciting and might get me to switch from Oly. I have the Oly 7-14mm zoom, which is a 14-28mm equiv in film. It's a fantastic lens, wonderful color and sharpness, I'd really like to see how it compares to the new 14-24. On brightness alone, the 14-24 wins, it's f2.8 vs f4 for the oly. The oly really suffers in water in the corners. I suspect that the 14-24 will, too, so it may not be worth the huge investment to me, so it's wait and see mode for me. I wish someone would make a parabolic (rather than spherical) dome and correct this problem properly, I think that would do it.
  19. All this math is real nice, but the mouthbreathing felons at the TSA just don't care. Until this sets in for a while, and they get the training to smooth over the bumps, I'd expect the usual random idiocy. In other words, the only people affected are those flying. Longer lines, more random confiscations for everyone. I'm traveling next week, for work. I usually carry 3 or 4 laptop batteries (they've gotten old, my flights are long). I'll bring along a camera and a spare battery for it. We'll see how it goes. I'll be under the 25g, and all carryon. I have had the TSA take things from me that they should not, and I have filled out a claim form and gotten paid. Maybe I'll get some new laptop batteries out of this next week.
  20. It's time to elect new members of the LAUPS board. Care to be wetpixel liaison, Bo?
  21. That new 12-60 may make the 14-54 drop in price, too. There should be plenty on the used market.
  22. I think cities only regulates international trade, intra-national trade isn't covered. In california, thresher is fished commercially. The most recent year I can find statistics on is 2000, in which 568,843 pounds of thresher were landed, worth $492,447. http://swr.nmfs.noaa.gov/fmd/bill/land00.htm I cannot find any statistics on east coast landings. Could be a different thresher species that is not targeted or is less edible or something. This page lists them as "non-targeted": http://www.flmnh.ufl.edu/fish/sharks/csop/spcomp2.html
  23. Partly diffraction, as you say, but also partly that the lenses were cheap and hit confusion before diffraction, and partly that they are small and at some point a tiny hole is hard to make, even if with the rest of the lens geometry, it's only f8. And why go to f22 when they sync at 1/4000 and can compensate with fast shutter speeds for most of their users (with shaky hands). hooo, you lost me. But I want to figure this out, I might learn something. Herb, put it simply for me. Let's stick with 100mm lenses, your 100mm and my 50mm, assume they have the same FOV, 24 degrees. Say the subject is at 2 feet. What are the relative fstops and DoFs? Are you saying that your aperture is larger, your plate scale means you put more photons into each sensor? according to the DofMaster, at 2' and f2, I have a DoF of .03', 1.99 to 2.01 (must be some round off). At 2' and f22, I have a DoF of .31', 1.86 to 2.16. http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
  24. If lenses were named by their field of view in degrees instead of their focal distance vs 35mm film, this would be easier, it would be apples to apples. I'm going to stick to my guns and say that it is fair to compare a 300mm oly to a 600mm film lens, and in this case, it's not like adding a teleconverter: you double the mm only to get into the same nomenclature, you aren't really doubling the mm or halving the FoV, and you don't double the f stop in this case. A 300mm oly f2.8 is like a 600mm f2.8 for 35mm film. So let's start over: price me a lens in your system with a 4.2 degree field of view, at f2.8. Bring whatever color herring you want. And Phil, if somehow that chart could show the wonderful bokeh on that 50mm.....
  25. thanks. Work and travel has not allowed me time for the rumor mill, pretty surprising since there ar efew things I have tracked as closely and as long as the E3. I went through a cycle with Sigma lenses, and I think a few others have, too. You get excited about the specs and the price... then you spend some time with an olympus lens in the same focal length, and you forget about the sigma. That said, I hope the 70-300 is good. I'm not knocking sigma. I think that anyone, sigma or oly or nikon or canon, can make great glass or economy glass. Sigma has made some remarkable lenses. The classic trade in lenses is quality vs price, I think that sigma has the extra compromise to make in making flexibile lenses, and they do that pretty well, at a very competative price.
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