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RogerC

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Everything posted by RogerC

  1. I have an E1 and rented a housing for it, I am waiting for the new pro Oly. I am in love with many qualities of the E1, as you probably are. It does a stellar job with blues, absolutely stellar, and the 7-14 lens is the reason I bought the whole system - but then, I am a wide guy, I want to do wide all the time, and I love being able to go to 14 (aka, 28) in case an animal shows up. It would certainly blow your budget. But basically, I want to take the 7-14 lens in the water, with a pro, weathersealed big-buffer camera behind it. I don't think you will outgrow the E1 soon. You will outgrow the 8400. I made a longer post on it here: http://www.digitaldiver.net/yabbse/index.p...;threadid=19486 and i have some high-asa ("noisy") samples here: http://www.digitaldiver.net/yabbse/index.p...;threadid=19898 sorry for cross posting. My comment on the camera specifically from that post are: -------------------------------------------------------------------------- The E1 has some excellent qualities. The E1 is weather sealed well and could probably take a minor flood. Many land shooters have dropped theirs in streams, etc. A few regularly rinse theirs in the sink after shooting near the ocean. None fear shooting in the rain. I don't mind using mine on deck, even with wet hands. This is a real bonus in a camera. Many of it's specs - particularly the 12 shot buffer, the color, and the general build quality - make it an excellent choice for an UW camera. Once you invest in a housing, you want a camera that can last a long time, and the E1 will. And right now, it's down to what, $400? $500? I got mine with 14-54 for $775. If the E3 does not live up to my expectations, I may get a couple more E1s and call Ryan about that housing. But I found it to have 4 major flaws. 1. Very poor low light focusing. It's worse than my 5050. But you could work around it: get a nice focus light, learn the huge DoF and hyperfocal distance it has with a wide lens on it. I would set it for manual focus and then tap the AE/AF button, which would momentarily trigger autofocus, and shoot away happily until my subject changed distance (wrecks in Truk move slow). So this can be worked around. 2. Very noisy at high ISO. I love shooting ambient light at times, on land and underwater. The E1 is so noisy up at 3200 asa that most shots will end up being turned into B&W so they look like an old grainy photograph. So you can work around that, too. But I wish it was less noisy. It's a great tool. But many cameras don't go to 3200, and not everyone would use it, so this would be irrrelevant to many. 3. Awkward to get to the histogram of the image you just took. You can get there, but it's an extra button press. Now, all of my pictures are exposed perfectly, but I have heard other people complain about this. So many of us wish they'd fix this! We dream of an E1n: same camera, maybe even same chip (maybe not, maybe more pixels), with just a few minor, practically only software, upgrades here and there. We hope the E3 does this! 4. No live view. I would use it a lot. Some would not. I think it would be killer for ultra macro. Personally, I am waiting until Photokina, to see what the E3 brings. But if I'm not happy, I'm going to buy a bunch of $400 E1s and live happily ever after. The E3 had better be affordable, and it had better image blue water as well as the E1. I can put up with the E1s faults and a whole lot more for its color. if these "flaws" don't bother you, and they may not, by all means, house it. In which case I hope Ryan has 2 housings or that Ike can be persueded with cash money to make one more. Or maybe I can convince the assembly line that I'm the other Roger Carlson and they need to restart E1 production, stat!
  2. Nice pictures, Udo. I've used the micromesh on a dome. It's worth noting that only the 1st coarsest mesh removes the scratch. The rest of the meshes remove the scratches left by the previous mesh, each mesh only goes so deep. It's not a sandpaper, it's a fine mesh, the residue you've ground off comes through the mesh without clogging the mesh like normal sandpaper. I screwed up a few times and had to go back to coarser meshes and start over. I did it in about 30 minutes on an 8" dome, bet I could do it in 20. I'm sure Udo was slowed down by drying and photographing. it's a lot of steps, but it's not a lot of elbow grease, it's not rocket science. The way it goes step by step, many fine steps, it's easy. The 2 step liquids may take more elbow grease to do the same job, I'm not sure. The final liquid is also an anti-static paste, it helps the dome shed any dust and particles that might be left after the process. I think it helped and was more than toothpaste, just my opinion.
  3. Rumors are pointing to an Aperture announcement or release at Photokina later this month (sept). I run aperture on my 1.33 GHz 17" Al book. My wife has a new 2.1GHz macbook pro 15". Huge difference. It's much faster. It does not seem to take much advantage of the dual processors, which lends credence to the theory that aperture is a video card hog, not a processor hog. It's really nice running aperture on the new 15 book, though.
  4. There's no game taking on the E rigs, Eureka, Ellen, Elly, S of San Pedro. You can take game and use strobes on Grace. No strobes on Holly? that's bizzare. Never been up there. I have done Grace many times and just did Eureka for the first time. The bait there is amazing, worth doing. You would not think there would be a big difference between rigs, but there is between those two.
  5. http://images.google.com/images?q=shark%20finning http://seashepherd.org/longline/longline_shark_finning.html
  6. I've had an aeris 500ai for many years, but it's been slowly getting more and more water in it, probably due to the quick release on the pressure hose. Never again for that feature. I like it, I like the algorithm - pretty liberal but I have over 500 dives on it, some long stops, many multi days, no problems. But I am really disapointed in Aeris. I asked them to service it, open it up, dry it out, replace the o-rings. They refused, said they no longer had parts for it. I wasn't looking for parts, just a drying out and what I expected would be a standard oring at the quick release. So never again for aeris for me. It died last weekend, it's done. I also have a suunto stinger. It is so conservative as to be unusable. It has thrown me stops of up to 17 minutes when my aeris has remained clear. I rarely get through a day of diving without violating it and putting it into gauge mode. Now that it's my primary (temporarily) I'll keep it clear, obviously. Violating these long stops would normally make me nervous, but I have many years of experience with my aeris and only a few with the suunto. One good thing about the suunto, though. It taught me that I have been coming up too fast. Not torpedoing up, but coming up faster than 30fpm, I guess. The slower you come up, the happier the suunto is and the shorter the stops are. Coming up slow, making a half-stop (Pyle stop) seems like a good idea to me, and I'd like my next computer to reward me for it, rather than punish me for it - some computers with basic algorithms want you up as fast as possible. I think the only bubble model computers out there are uwatec, suunto, and VR3(or VR2). I am probably missing some. The dive rite has a good rep, but doesn't have a bubble model. The nitek he, the fancy dive rite computer, has dropped in price to ~$600. I'm doing a lot more research before I buy another computer. I don't want to be stuck with an algorithm like the one in my suunto, it's too limiting, for me. Your milage may vary. If you want a lot of safety margin, it's worth considering.
  7. Upgrade the drive in your laptop and put the old one in a cheap external case. Or a good external case, the laCies with the rubber bump rail look really nice. It can be handy having one that will mount via usb or firewire, so you can mount the drive and your ipod at the same time.
  8. just to put a data point out to the right: ULCS, 2x12 (normal) and 2x16 (bouyancy). Ike ds125s with diffusers, EV controllers, and cable extenders.
  9. Let's say your housing is in thermal equilibrium at 90°F and 90% humidity. You lower it to 30°F on a dive in antartica. You let it come to equilibrium. You don't think there's condensation? (frost, really). I do. How do you explain the graph in the middle of this page? http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase...tic/relhum.html same stuff, no graph: http://www.usatoday.com/weather/wrelhum.htm I say you can have a temperature differential and get no condensation as long as no temp in the system is below the dew point. I think you are saying that you will get condensation anytime you don't have thermal equilibrium (or only one greater than a certain amount?) and as long as you do have thermal equilibrium, you get no condensation, even if you are below the dew point. Dew point is irrelevant to condensation. Right?
  10. jcclink, I'm still gonna disagree with you. Read the links I posted above. Condensation isn't due to temperature differences. It's due to air cooling to below its dew point. Keeping things the same temperature doesn't matter at all. You need to keep important things (your camera, your port) above the dew point temperature. You can do that by keeping temp high or moisture content low. Any other physicist or chemists or even engineers out there or am I alone on this one? Davichin: I can't remember where I got mine. I've had them a while. You want the ones in the white tyvek packets, they are called minipax. Not all of them have the clear window strip for the indicator. I like the ones that do. Sometimes my packets go for a long time, many trips, but other times, one trip and they are saturated. I recharge them myself, they last a while. I only get rid of them when I overheat them and melt the tyvek. Don't get the clear plastic packets. They absorb much more slowly, too slowly to be any good in a housing. get this kind: http://www.packworld.com/cds_search.html?r...rm=(desiccants) how to recharge. Note that the tyvek melts at 250°F. http://www.sorbentsystems.com/desiccant_regeneration.html
  11. unless the port is thinner acrylic. But you also have metal buttons and rods, they cool fastest and probably get all the condensation.
  12. if you don't trust theorists, we can test this. Take your housing, with no camera, and leave it in the sun. If you're right, it will fog. If I'm right, it won't. Now do it with your camera in there. If I'm right, and there is enough moisture in your camera, and conditions are right (I'm not weaseling, those ifs are real), it will fog. if I do it, it won't fog, my camera is dry, I always use healthy desicant, with an indicator strip so I know it's good. Let me give you another example. My local water is low 50's. As I decend and my camera and housing are cooling, I get condensation on the port, if I have a lot of moisture in the housing. As I ascend, the camera is the slowest thing to warm up. Parts of the camera, internally, will be at 50 for quite a while: the batteries, sealed parts of the lens, metal frame, any bigger chunks that are slow to warm. So I get condensation inside the camera, where I can't see it. The camera drys out slowly over time, but if I make another dive too soon, there is moisture in there that can be distilled out. Now, your water is hopefully not 50 degrees. But the cycle still happens. There is a time when your camera is the coldest thing in the housing, or even cold after you take it out of the housing, and your camera is still grabbing some moisture. Not as much as mine would, but some. And then that moisture is there to distill out later when you heat the camera up. So use desiccant to grab any free moisture, and keep the water out of your camera.
  13. In that case, there should be no way your camera can fog. No way. If temp only goes up, humidity can only go down...if moisture content remains the same. I don't think it does, I think moisture content goes up because the added heat frees moisture that was in your camera. I think heat loss doesn't matter, as long as you stay above the dew point. And you are above the dew point, you started in a colder room with no condensation. So I think a factor is changing: moisture content is rising. You are right, a cooler air/water mixture is more likely to coalesce, or condense... if the mixture cools to the dew point temp. Ok, I understand what you are saying... but still disagree. I still think the inconsistency is you are adding moisture by distilling water out of your camera by heating it. think anyone but us is left reading this thread? I've enjoyed it.
  14. First, I'm sorry if any of my posts came off strong. If they did, I just didn't spend enough time writing them, I wasn't trying to be harsh to anyone, especially jcclink, I felt bad about how I wrote that last post. But here I go again... ;-) I'd put it a different way. It's not equalization that's causing condensation. It's that the air immediately around the cold surface is cooling below it's dew point, the air in that local pocket has greater than 100% humidity. I tihnk it has changed, but only in the pocket of air right around the cold surface. you lost me there... I think you are saying that if the housing is a good insulator, you'll get a larger thermal gradient, and then you are more likely to get condensation? Take a look at any of these: http://weathersavvy.com/Q-dew_point1.html http://www.usatoday.com/weather/wrelhum.htm http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase...tic/relhum.html I still say (and this is pretty subtle and I'm probably going to give up) that you can't get condensation when temp is going up, unless somehow moisture content is also going up, so the rise in temp must be baking out moisture trapped in the camera from previous dives.
  15. You sure, Ryan? I've gotten new batteries put in my packs by ike, hard to believe that you couldn't ask for nimh instead of nicad.
  16. cutting and snipping jcclink's post.... I agree with that last point, but the first two bother me. Condensation occurs when relative humidity rises to 100%. Relative humidity can go up because the air temp has dropped, or because the water content of the air has increased. In a housing, water content better not be going up. So we're only worried about temperature changes. When temperature goes up, due to a housing being in the sun or an internal strobe firing, relative humidity should be going down. But temperature is going up, and humidity is going up. That's nuts. That can't be. So what the heck is going on? Same as in my longer post: my theory is that your camera has spent so much time in humid environments, that there is moisture in it. When you put it in the sun, the camera in the housing gets up to, say, 120 degrees, and that moisture goes into the air in the housing. And now the wall of the housing is only 85 or 90 (since it's in contact with the cooler air, even though it is in the sun), and you get condensation on the housing wall. Better to use desiccant. Better to never run the risk of a fog, better to never get moisture into your camera.
  17. The solution to the fogging problem is to use desiccant. Even if you aren't getting fog, you are keeping your camera in a very humid environment, and long term, that can lead to trouble. And sooner or later, you may hit conditions that will cause fog. All that's really going on with fogging is, the air temp in your housing is dropping to the dew point. All the data I found on dew point uses big volumes (cubic meters), so let's say your housing is for an imax camera and happens to have exactly 1 cubic meter of volume inside, 1 cubic meter of air. Let's forget about the camera for now, and just talk about an empty housing with 1 cubic meter of air in it. Let's say the air in the housing is absolutely dry. There is nothing in the housing but oxygen and nitrogen, no water, 0% humidity. Let's say the temp in the housing is is 25C or 77°F. At that temp, one cubic meter of air can hold 23 grams of water, which is 23cc's of water (that's cubic centimeters, or about 1.55 tablespoons or .77 fluid ounces, and if you're like me, that's enough math to make you want a pint). OK, so you put your 23ccs of water in the housing, and wait a bit, and it all evaporates, and now the air in your housing is at 100% humidity, and it's still at a temp of 25C or 77°F (hey, geeks, please ignore that we've squeezed 1.000023 cubic meters into a 1 cubic meter housing and changed the pressure, and while were at it, let's ignore the change in temp due to the energy of vaporization, mmmkay?) You go out of the room, to somewhere warmer. Now the air in the housing gets warmer, so can hold more moisture. As the temp of the air goes up, the relative humidity goes down. If there was a humidity gauge in there, you'd see the needle drop. Get the temp up to 30C or 86°F, and the air can hold 30.4 grams of water, and the humidity in there is only around 74%. Get it hotter, and it can hold even more moisture. And now you go diving. Finally. So what happens when anything on the inside of your housing hits a temperature lower than 25C or 77°F? You can't have more than 100% humidity. You hit the dew point. Some of the water condenses out. You get fog. The needle on the humidity gauge has hit 100 and tried to cross it. If you have a metal housing, maybe that fog occurs on the metal and you never get condensation on your port. If you have a lexan housing, maybe it occurs on a metal push-button, since the button will cool off faster than the housing wall. Or maybe your camera runs hot, and as long as you keep taking pictures, you can keep your housing temp up over 77 degrees, and you won't get fog. Or maybe, for whatever reason, your lens port cools off first, and you get fog where you least want it. There are two ways to avoid it: keep your housing's temperature up, or reduce the amount of water vapor in your housing. My wife uses the first method, she only dives in warm water. I use the second method: I use dessicant. Many people also use the second method by only opening their housing in an air conditioned room, with the idea that if you are starting with air at 80% humidity at 70°F, you won't get condensation until you get into water that's down in the 60's, so in the tropics you're just fine. Right? Yeah, well, usually, but why mess with it? why not use some desiccant? You never know when you're going to start out with a bit more humidity and hit a thermocline. But is this really a good idea? if your housing is just a few degrees away from hitting the dew point, that means the humidity in your housing is very high. How happy is your camera in an environment with a 90% humidity? So if you get fog in your housing, you know that one of two things has happened: the temp has dropped below the dew point, or you got more water in your housing. Those are the only two reasons fog can happen. Those are the only two reasons. Really. Those are the only two things that can cause the needle on the humidity gauge to move. Whatever temperature your housing is at on the surface after you close it does not matter. Under a towel, in the sun, it doesn't matter. How can it? There is still only 23cc's water in the housing, and it won't condense until the housing hits 76 degrees. It doesn't matter if the housing has been sitting at 80 in the shade or 800 in the sun. The air in the housing doesn't have a memory. It has 23cc's of water, and as long as you're above 77 degrees, no condensation will occur. It does not matter what the housing is made of. All that matters is the temperature and water content. That's it. Now here comes the fun. Let's take the housing and put a camera in it, and leave it in the sun before a dive. Regardless of everything I've said up above, we all know it's much more likely to fog. We've all seen it. How can this be? How can it fog just because it got hot? How can it fog at a temperature higher than 77 degrees? It cannot. If there is only 23ccs of water in there, no fog can occur if the temp is above 77. It just plain can't. In fact, up above, we said that at higher temps, humidity % is lower. The needle on the humidity gauge drops as temp goes up. It should be less likely to fog. It should not fog. But it does. The needle on the humidity gauge has gone up, not down. There must be more than 23cc's of water in the housing. It must have come from the camera. Here's what I think is going on, kids. Your camera has moisture in it from spending so much time in humid environments. And that time in the sun is getting your camera hot, getting that moisture moving, and it gets out in the housing where it can cause trouble. I have two examples to support the theory. The first is my dive computer. If I leave it in the sun, it fogs. It's sealed. No moisture is coming and going out of the housing. But when I leave it in the sun, the guts of the computer get up over a hundred degrees or so, hot enough to vaporize so much moisture from the guts of the computer that the humidity in there is so high that it condenses out on the cooler front window of the computer. There is so much moisture in my computer that the dew point in there is up in the 80's. When I take it out of the sun, the travels back to whatever other part of the computer is coolest and the window eventually clears up. It's not a happy computer. The second example I have is my original digital camera. It got so much moisture in it that it started fogging on its own, out of the housing, just out on land. I tried everything to get it to clear, and it never did. I tried leaving it out with every door open, no luck. Over years and years of use in humid environments, the moisture had migrated into the lens barrel, which is pretty well sealed, and it wasn't coming out quickly. here's a picture from that camera. This camera was not in a housing, and the front lens was clean. The fog was in the guts of the lens. Kids, use desiccant. You are more likely to fog in cold water, you are more likely to fog when you assemble your housing in warm air with high humidity, you are more likely to fog in a housing made of a material that cools faster. But even if you are not fogging, why do you want your camera in a housing with high humidity? Use desiccant.
  18. What are the exposures in the two shots? the magic filter must darken the water by several stops if there's no lighting on the "after" shot.
  19. fogging occurs because the air in the housing starts at a certain temp, with a certain amount of moisture, and then in the water, the temp drops, and there is now too much moisture to remain in the vapor, and the moisture condenses. In other words, the air in the housing cools to below its dew point. Lexan is a better insulator than metal, so it may stay warm a little longer so you may be better off. Or, in a lexan housing, you may find that your port is what is cooling off most rapidly, so you only get dew on your port, where you least want it. Bottom line is, in any housing, under the right conditions, you will get condensation. You don't want condensation around your camera, it can ruin more than a picture. So always use dessicant, and buy any housing you like.
  20. I don't think it does affect the question; the multi optics are just to make it achromatic. It can be treated as a simple diopter for simple calculations.
  21. The exact right color filter depends on the color of the water and probably the sun angle, too. I think almost any red will help, to some extent, and white balancing helps, and the two together work best of all.
  22. you can make soup out of their fins, and the number of people who like shark fin soup and can afford it is growing. Different class of fisherman, obviously, but a different problem that needs a different solution.
  23. you might consider donating to sea shepherd, too: http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventur...res/whales.html
  24. hmm, it used to be there: http://www.macobserver.com/article/2001/10/17.7.shtml now it looks like it's in iTunes somewhere. Maybe that opens it up to non macs, too: http://www.freeplaymusic.com/licensing/termsofuse-fp2.html
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