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Timz last won the day on November 27 2018

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About Timz

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  1. Thanks DRT Malaysia 2020 for choosing both of my submission. Details of Pic above LIVE BENEATH A JETTY Location: Pulau Bidong, Terengganu Details of Pic above UNDER THE SARDINE SCHOOL Location : Moalboal, Philippines
  2. 101% agreed... Though it'a abit late... But I just ordered my E-M1-II online due to the irresistable 12.12 promotion in our country. I believe based on the features of E-M1-II and E-M5-III which are 99% similar, I doubt any inprovement over them will ever impress me to justify the price I will be paying. Other than larger MP and maybe wider Base ISO. And therefore, after thinking abt it for 6 months... I went ahead with the purchase. Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
  3. I've personally contacted one of the accessories manufacturer for Olympus housing. According to him, there will be other brands housing for E-M5.3 around April next year. Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
  4. When u switch to LED trigger, Always test it with the fiber optics and strobes that u already have before buying. Some fiber optics do not transmit enough light to trigger the strobes. Some LED are too dim to trigger the strobes. Some Strobes are not sensitive enough to be triggered. But INON are quite sensitive. It shouldn't be any problem. Just incase, u bring your FO cable together with your strobe and test with the camera anf housing before buying. One of my friend have to change to "branded" FO for it to work with her S&S YS-D1. Then he upgraded to YS-D2 and it didn't work. Now I am trying to help him find a bigger diameter FO cable and hope that it works. 2 good thing is you'll get used to the Manual setting quite quickly and you can have better control over the lighting. And you don't have to wait for the Olynoua mini strobe to recharge. Cheers. Timlow Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
  5. Thanks for all the tips... Appreciete every shared experience... Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
  6. Thanks... I am aware that strobe aren't allow. My trip also involves Moalboal for the Sardines. Hopefully thresher sharks decides to swim across to hunt there...
  7. Hi, I will be going to Malapascua, Philippines to shoot Thresher shark. My set up is as following:- Olympus E-M5 mark ii Olympus PT-EP13 housing AOI DLP-06 (Dome port) AOI FLP-04 (Short flat port) AOI 24mm port extension Olympus 9-18mm F4-5.6 Olympus 8mm F1.8 Olympus 12-50mm F3.5-5.6 With the port extension, I can fit the 9-18mm into my AOI Dome port. Same as the 12-50mm Please advise which one would be the most suitable lens to shoot Thresher shark at Malapascua..? Thank you in advance for everyone's input. FF or APS-C user are also welcome to comment.. THanks Timz
  8. In my opinion... It will give you the flexibility like a compact system where you can still choose between wideangle and macro even when you are already in the water. But, I will go for option 1... When I shot wide angle, I would want to have the ad much details as possible. Adding a mwl1 glass i front of the original Olympus glass will definitely soften or decrease the quslity of the image. Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
  9. My opinion... I have both Olympus and Panasonic 8mm. Still having it. And yes, the Oly glass is superior, but not by heaven and earth. But u got F/1.8 when u need to shoot sunray in a cave... Not a necessity, but something nice to have. And no, u don't have to remove the lens in order to remove it from your housing. That's only for M.Zuiko 7-14mm F/2.8 PRO. Macro, my choice is Olympus 60mm F/2.8. Good working range with great Image Quality. Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
  10. Bidong Island, probably one of the most underrated diving destination in Malaysia that people least talk about. Though it's not a marine park, but due to its minimal traffic, the corals and the marine life are much preserved. One of the highlight of this Island is beneath the jetty. The water is just 5-10m depth depending on how far you dive away from the jetty... But beneath the jetty, is a hidden gem where you see diversity of sof corals growing out from the pillars that support the jetty and different species of fishes.. Enjoy. *All images were shot with Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark ii Olympus M.Zuiko 8mm F/1.8 fisheye PRO Olympus PT-EP13 Housing AOI DLP-06 Dome port + 24mm Extension Z240 Strobes X 2 P9150526 by Tim Low, on Flickr P9150469 by Tim Low, on Flickr P9150462 by Tim Low, on Flickr P9150462 by Tim Low, on Flickr
  11. Hi... Sorry for being out of topic. But i would like to know how bad if the purple flare of the Panny 7-14mm lens on Olympus body? I have an E-M5 ii. Is the flare as bad as how all the reviewer said? Thanks. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  12. SOLD. *I couldn't find the button to edit on the main post...
  13. Depending on the subject you will be shooting. I dove at Keys in 2015 before... You can forget 200mm. 105mm is a good start. In the event u need to add on a macro diopter aka wet lens, you'll still have sufficient working distance between the lens and your subject. Don't worry abt the water between the subject and the lens. In macro photography, the affect is minimal and the backscatter can be controlled by your strobes or your light position. However, Black water is easier to shoot with the 60mm because it's not easy to compose a subject in blackwater. Subjects are all midwater and most of the time, it's easier to just shoot and crop. It's very difficult to compose a picture...
  14. -Olympus PEN E-PL6 Camera -Olympus PT-EP10 Housing + Flash diffuser -Olympus PTMC-01 Macro lens adapter (M67) -2 used main oring(still good) -1 brand new oring -2 Original batteries -Olympus M.Zuiko 12-50mm f/3.5-5.6 EZ lens -Olympus M.Zuiko 60mm F/2.8 macro Custom made tray with pistol style shutter trigger and standard ball mount. Everything above: USD770 or RM3200 Items at Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Optional: -Subsee +5 macro lens - RM350 -Panasonic Lumix 8mm f/3.5 fisheye + Precision Dome port(scratched) -RM2000 Attached are some pictures taken with the system. Some of it was taken with strobes which is NOT INCLUDED in the package. Attached is some picture I took with the system 20180912_024702 by Tim Low, on Flickr P4160708 by Tim Low, on Flickr P6243758 by Tim Low, on Flickr P2061644 by Tim Low, on Flickr Bumblebee Shrimp by Tim Low, on Flickr
  15. 1- Canon or Nikon, the technology of the lenses are almost the same as during the 90s. Nothing much has changed on the lenses since then. Regarding body, both are equally good in my opinion. And both system has very well support from 3rd accessories. 2- Wide angle, I would prefer not to adapt another unnecessary optics between my lens and the dome. Esspecially a optics made by 3rd party that's design to work with a variety of lenses. 3- I am not sure abt SMC, But i tried Aquako on 60mm it cause physical vignett on the image. the FOV of the 60mm includes the barrel of my aquako. 4- The suggestion was 60mm(FF equivalent) for blackwater and 90-105mm(FF equivalent) for normal macro. Reason was 60mm has more things in the frame amd it is easier to work with in blackwater. Most of the time, u can't compose a blackwater shot. u just shoot and crop.Having more in the frame is better. Regarding Fullframe or APS-C, It didn't really matter if the company have sufficient lenses to work underwater. a few important lenses to have for underwater are +-100mm macro, ultra wide (weitwinkel) angle of 15-20mm, a 15mm fisheye. If it covers at least 3 of these specs, then it's good to go. If u want a set of lightweigt system, ever consider Micro 43?? Before you decide, U can go around and try out the system. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
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