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Everything posted by Roger-Botting

  1. A dumb mistake I made a few dives back. I accidentally, during a dive, set the camera to auto bracket. Yes, normal, one stop under, one stop over exposure. But seeing your last post, if you are sure that you have made sure everything is set properly, borrow someone else's identical equipment and then test to see what is the problem peice.
  2. If i understand what you are asking, you want to know how to do flash underwater and balance your subject exposure with your background. With the flash on manual, set the correct F stop for the distance of the flash from the subject and the ISO. Then, manually set the shutter speed to give you the exposure that you want. A higher shutter speed will make the background darker, a lower shutter speed will make the background brighter. So far, easy. If the shutter speed gets above the maximum sync speed of the camera you will cut off some of the flash exposure. If the shutter speed gets too slow, you might get subject movement or camera shake. Do yourself a favour. Practice this above water to see how things work out. You might find you want to change the flash power or change your ISO before you get in the water.
  3. I have one from http://uwcamerastuff.com. It works great, now. Mine had a slight leak at the glued seam between the dome and the black plastic base. Upon contacting the seller I was told how to seal it properly. It has been water tight since. Double check seam before first dive. You can do that in a sink. Optically? works best for me with a 10.5 fisheye lens. Works decent with a 18-55 lens and a +2 diopter. doesn't work that well with a 12-24 lens. The dome port share, make sure its on straight when using the fisheye. It will get scuffed during use, it polishes up nicely Novus plastic polish.
  4. I only use the screen on the back to determine if the flash went off, etc. Looking at the histogram is a good answer, but if you are really going to count on the screen on the back of your camera when using it underwater do this. Take a photograph of a ten tone step wedge or X-rite colour checker. Take a look at the screen on land. Next dive, take a look at what it looks like in the water. I am sure it will look very different. remember the differences. That will tell you how much your screen looks off while in the water. The colours will definitely shift, thats your brain trying to out think you, but the more important is making sure that you see the steps as being separate and not all bunched together at either end. If sos, adjust your screen.
  5. I had an earlier version of that lens. It worked fine on my FE2 in an Ikelite housing with a small dome port. But that info is 30 years out of date.
  6. The 'old cracked door flood' got me on my first dive with my DS-51. I washed the battery compartment and the flash worked properly. I later sent it to Ikelite trying to resolve other flash issues. It turned out my brand new housing for a Canon G16 was the issue. I bought new battery compartment covers and all is fine now. I also had a similar issue with my DS-160, It flooded the first time out. Bought other battery packs and all is fine. And then there was my Substobe M. Flooded first dive. Main compartment. Took it back to the dealer, still flooded. Serviced properly the next day. The dealer was an Ikelite repair station. The moral of the story? water will seek out anything electronic, double check everything before going near the water.
  7. I hate to put a damper on your ideas but I think you would be further ahead by either getting a wet proof point and shoot like an Olympus TG-5 or get a waterproof cover like an Outex for your camera. If you had to get your housing serviced it would be several hundreds of dollars if Ikelite would consent to doing it. And, you might find the dome port awkward for focusing if you are trying to do the over/under types of shots. A flat port would work better in many cases. And take a good look at the types of housings that surf photographers use. I don't know the brand names, sorry. They might be what you really need.
  8. Do get a housing before you flood the camera. I know people who use the Olympus housing with continuous lights. Some of the get great results. The water is a bit dark here. I use Ikelite housings and flashes. They work well but do remember that they are part of a system and to switch systems can get expensive.
  9. I have the Bill Liebcap vacuum system on my Ikelite housing. The vacuum keeps it closed even if the latches are not done up. And the warning lights let me know if there is a leak. The warning lights are important. I had vacuum sealed my housing, went for a dive and noticed moisture in the housing, The lights warned me. A slight crack in the dome, where the dome was cemented to the base was letting in a slight amount of moisture. I, at first thought it was condensation but the salt crystals surprised me. Leak is now fixed.
  10. You are asking for everything without realizing that there are compromises to be made. I assume you have very clear water, otherwise wide angle won't be of much use. For wide angle you might want to look at a Tokina 10-17 lens but you will need a dome. And to get your desired macro effect you will need to get very close to your subject. For macro? get a macro lens. For your camera Nikon has 4 choices. 40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 105mm All are good lens. You will need a suitable port. The longer the lens the less need to get close to get the image you want but you get less of a wide angle for non close up photos. Where I dive the water is reasonably clear, at times. I use a D7000 and a Nikon 18-55 lens. Somewhat wide angle when used with a dome port, sort of close up when zoomed out to 55, and its a reasonable compromise lens. Sometimes I have used my old 55 Micro Nikkor, manual focus for close ups. But of course that is when I see an opportunity for a wider angle lens.
  11. I would venture that it depends on your finances and your ability to rationalize spending. I bought used, I bought a refurb D7000 and used housing for several reasons, limited income, not planning to sell photos, and I could easily buy another D7000 for much less than my other camera, a D750. And I doubt that you would really see the quality difference.
  12. Yes, its an old thread but, does anybody have a current link to suitable replacement batteries for the battery pack for Ikelite strobes. I clicked on a couple of the old links but they are dead. Thankyou
  13. When I worked in camera repair back in the early 80's we used contact cement. Paint some onto the body and some onto the covering. Let dry for a few minutes and then stick together carefully. Let harden. Advantages are that its fairly easy to clean up, the solvent works well, but lighter fluid also is a solvent. Downside, I never tried it on the rubber type grips found on newer cameras. If you are really the squeamish type, try it on an older camera to see if it works. And yes, I have heard that Nikon cameras have issues with the rubber coming loose from the camera.
  14. I had this for a while. I then used a focusing light. It sped up the focus and the delay disappeared. Not enough light makes the auto focus slow. You aren't using live-view are you? That can be extremely slow in low light conditions.
  15. Tim has the correct answer. To convert my 10.5 Nikon fish eye lens to give a full circle image on my D750, I used a Dremel tool to remove the lens hood. It makes the lens almost unsellable but it does give me a full circle image. If you do decide to modify the lens think about it for a day or two and proceed carefully. You can easily convert your precious lens into someone else's collection of spare parts.
  16. Occasionally, It does make my Nikon D7000 rather slow to operate. Waiting for it to focus the slow way and then to go through all of the cycle. And the live view AF works very slowly unless you have lots of light on the subject. On the upside, when my arms are long enough it does allow you to move the camera in closer to the subject and you get a rough view of all that your eventual photo might have.
  17. I just did this repair on my DS-51. Look around WetPixel, there are some very complete instructions on how to get your flash apart. I had accidentally got a drop or two of water inside. Hint, don't wash your flash under a tap. I took my flash apart according to the instructions, knowing it was only a drop or two of water, put the flash on a heating pad, drove out the moisture and all is well again. And yesterday's dive showed me it is watertight. Remember, it only takes a drop of water to stop a flash. And if you don't want to do this to your flash, send it to me. I will give it a good home. ;-)
  18. Tim G I would put trying to remove damaged lens coating towards the bottom of the list of possible repairs. Using a solvent to remove the coating would be preferable to abrading it off but to use a lens coating solvent would probably entail disassembly of the lens. Not a casual action. This lens is more complex than most interchangeable lens. There is the water sealing to be dealt with. Since Nikon doesn't appear interested in doing a repair his options are somewhat limited. They would be. Replacement of lens Finding someone with sufficient skills and parts to repair the lens and especially the waterproofing Removal of whatever the discolouration of the rear element is Using the lens as is Disassembly and selling as parts Finding a garbage can. Having, years ago, worked in a camera repair shop, I have seen others do this type of work. Always on a last hope basis. And that repair shop shut down this month. Retirement of owner.
  19. You could just remove the coating from the rear element. A very mild abrasive should work. Try Brasso but do practice on an old filter or junk lens. Also, look for any local telescope makers in your area. They would have the optical type abrasives that would do the job.
  20. Use a piece of string and attach it to either a wine bottle cork (available used at your wine store or new at a hardware store) or use a golf practice ball. The type which has all of the holes in it. And then paint it pink or glow in the dark green so everyone can see it. ;-)
  21. A cheap upgrade might be to put a Nikon D700 into your housing. You will notice the image quality improvement and and spend the difference on another lens.
  22. No complaints here. The first photo does look like the front of the turtle was flash illuminated and the back end was lit by ambient light. That could be deliberate or accidental. At least you didn't try to balance the lighting difference and get a pink turtle head. Sometimes beginners luck can be passed off as genius.
  23. I bought a used housing and a new dome port from Bill Libecap of Under Water Camera Stuff of Cincinnati Ohio. I picked up the gear, in person. Bill, very patiently, spent about an hour explain this and that about every aspect of the gear that I purchased. Bill carefully explained about the vacuum system and leak detector system that he sells. And it works great. I would suggest giving Bill a call if you need the products that he sells. Roger Botting
  24. INON UWL 105 AD wide angle lens with Ikelite Port Adapter Bayonet Short 9306.85. This combo works with Ikelite housings and might work with others. And, if you want I can include the mounting bracket for an Olympus PT-030 housing. $150 plus shipping costs. Items in Victoria BC Canada.
  25. I have one available. Only used for a few dives. Not needed any more. Open to cash or trades.
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