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ChrisRoss

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    2020
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ChrisRoss last won the day on March 28 2020

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About ChrisRoss

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    Sperm Whale

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  • Website URL
    http://www.aus-natural.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney Australia

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Australia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z-240

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  1. yes that may well make a difference hard to tell without doing a test. The INON are perfectly serviceable flashes and you without doubt many great shots been made with them, but the Retras certainly seem to be a step up in quality of light.
  2. YOu can see the cross pattern of the Z330 without the diffuser, look at the Retra link I supplied.
  3. Yes you need to talk to Isotta. A vacuum test is no different to diving. The vacuum you pull is normally about 200 mBar - this is EXACTLY the same as diving the housing to about 2m. The pressure difference between inside and outside will be the same as diving the housing without vacuum to 2m. What can happen is the housing back pulls in a bit closer to the camera when vacuum is applied.
  4. Yes, it shows the GN is not everything! The INON S-2000 has a nice very even 100° beam, I recall seeing the beam spread results Backscatter published and it performed quite well there - it is a very nice entry level strobe and can readily do wide angle for TG-6 and RX-100 style (1"sensor) cameras if you use the optimal f stop for the exposure - 1"sensor cameras at most need f5.6 which is f15 full frame equivalent. I would think the AOI strobe would only be useful for pseudo wide angle work with cameras like these if you use 2 of them and don't go beyond about 20mm full frame equivalent field.
  5. There was a test on these a while back. On the Retra website: https://www.retra-uwt.com/blogs/news/comparing-light-ouput They have photos showing beam spread of Z330 and DS-161 with and without diffusers along with numerical analysis. The Z330 drops off more so than the DS-161. Note though that the Zone 3 magenta reading represents a 126° beam spread from the strobe - the Z330 are specced at 110° and at that angle it is 1 stop dimmer than the DS-161. You can see the Z-330 drops more rapidly on the last point which co-insides with the 110° beam angle being reached. You can see the Retra has less drop off than even the DS-161 by this test. As I recall this test broadly agrees with the tests backscatter did a few years back.
  6. I know, I've never had a cable break and I don't take special care with them.
  7. No generally not, I have a Nauticam system and it works with no drama. So you have a gauge on the pump setup then to read vacuum? Is this your unit?: https://shop.divingexpress.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=5714 I would suggest to do a test, pull the vacuum, start the calibration sequence and once green stick the whole lot in the fridge - Do you have a way to leave the gauge connected? Or can you check the pressure again once it has cooled? Try and see what pressure it alarms at. The odd thing is that if the housing is cooling off - the pressure should be dropping as the gas inside gets colder. which means the there is more vacuum - not less. I calculate if you start with 5 psi vacuum which is 9.7 psia ( absolute pressure) and you cool the gas by 10°C (18 F) the pressure will change to 9.4 psia which 5.3 psi of vacuum - 5.3 psi less than atmospheric pressure. This should not cause it to alarm. It should only alarm if the pressure goes up, indicating a leak. I would suspect a passing valve until I could prove otherwise- either that or it's a faulty unit.
  8. Well you will need to use one of the Nauticam adapters I linked which scre on and will then take a Sea and Sea connector. At the strobe end I suspect it will take either a Sea and Sea plug or an INON screw fitting and this in the information you need to get from ikelite. If you were having trouble with the electric cables seizing - this is still a risk where the fibre optic converter attaches to the strobe as that is a screw on electric sync type fitting. You will need to periodically remove it and clean the threads and o-rings and re-fit so it doesn't seize.
  9. I think the experience varies depending on how you dive and to some extent where. I've been using a Nauticam and an INON fibre optic cables for about 5 years now and still going strong. Electric cables need to be maintained - if you leave them connected for long periods, the threads will start to corrode and seize. Fibre optucs it is no drama to disconnect and soak them as you don't need to deal with o-rings.
  10. This will depend on which Nauticam housing being used. The smaller housing take S&S plugs directly. What sort of thread is on the ikelte converter fibre cable end?
  11. If you have the converters, you also need a cable as you said and a trigger inside the housing, exactly which trigger depends upon the type of camera you have - or you can use pop up flash if your camera has one. The cable needs to have a plug compatible with your housing - if it's Nauticam that can be a Nauticam connector for most DSLR housings or a Sea & Sea plug for smaller housings like m43 housings. The other end needs to match the converter - it's not completely clear but it looks like it will take S&S or INON connectors, just by the compatible cables listed. It looks like Nauticam only sells a universal cable with S&S adapter plugs at each end which should work or if you want one end to be firmly attached by screwing on then this would go on your housing: https://www.backscatter.com/Nauticam-Fiber-Optic-Connector-for-Nauticam The S&S plugs are quite easy to pull out if the cable snags, so having one end with a screw-on connector is probably a good idea. There is also this adapter which converts a Nauticam screw on connector to S&S plugs: https://underwatercameras.com.au/aoi-nauticam-housing-fiber-optic-connector-seasea-conversion-cap/ and you should be able to use this cable: https://www.backscatter.com/Inon-Fiber-Optic-D-Cable-Type-L There will be other solutions available, the price for those adapters at Backscatter is pretty crazy expensive, but seems like that is the price for 4? If you confirm what housing you have it should be possible to narrow it down. Ask Ikelite as well about what type of cable will attach to the converter It should be S&S and INON L connector I think.
  12. What procedure do you use? Pump till first green light and then stop? Or give it 2-3 extra pumps? Does the unit claim to include temperature compensation?
  13. I think you'll have to wait and see, Nauticam might come up with something? Or it might be too hard, it looks like you need to grab a smooth dial with no protrusions.But if that knob up in front is what you use to turn it it looks like it requires you to press in on a button while turning which is an extra degree of difficulty. I think you just need to wait and see.
  14. Automatic won't work as it probably uses eye detection at the viewfinder and the housing makes the camera think you are looking through the EVF. My Olympus has a setting to disable auto EVF - it's not clear how Canon does it. It has a setting to display on screen only so that should display on LCD when you press the review button - but it's not clear if it will also use the LCD for shooting.
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