Jump to content

ChrisRoss

Moderator
  • Content Count

    943
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    32

ChrisRoss last won the day on March 28

ChrisRoss had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

150 Excellent

About ChrisRoss

  • Rank
    Great White

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.aus-natural.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney Australia

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Australia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z-240

Recent Profile Visitors

32125 profile views
  1. I always carry a small tool kit with me when travelling Allan key set, small screwdrivers - I have a set of JIS drivers for camera screws, I use an airline amenity kit pouch to carry them. This is quite small and goes in my checked bag. I also carry at least one of each port/housing/strobe o-ring spare and a small spares kit with spare reg mouthpiece, zip-ties, regulator hose o-rings etc., they fit in another amenity pouch with o-ring grease, o-ring pick. I also carry a blower bulb, microfibre cloth and +4 readers for close inpection of o-rings etc.
  2. Interesting video - one thing I would comment on is the comment about getting water droplets in housings and the water vaporizing if the housing is heated up - this is the cause of the mis-conception that getting a housing hot in the sun causes fogging. The cause is not the heating , the cause is water droplets which vapourise and then condense on the coldest surface when you hop in the water. If the housing is dry heating it up won't make any difference. On that point I'd like to ask a question about how you deal with water droplets - when I open my housing there is invariably a few droplets clinging to the o-ring and the mating seal when I open the housing - generally at the bottom of the housing. It's a Nauticam EM-1 mk-II housing - clam shell style. I have microfibre cloths but they seem to just move the water around and capillary action pulls the water into the groove on both sides of the seal. I could soak it up with something but I end up pulling it, shaking it off and running it through my fingers and inspecting. I generally have to mop up some small drops in the o-ring groove.
  3. I think they chose the Pen to keep it small and compact the EM-10 would need a significantly larger housing I think - but if they produce a housing for other models that would be great - if we can still buy them.
  4. Looks like a well thought out solution - as long as the flash trigger performs as advertised it should be a good solution. With M67 threads you should also be able to attach a WWL to it later which would be a great solution.
  5. So close yet so far - note that the ID of ports varies among the various N85 ports available. here's a list of lens diameters and some ports I have to show the variation: Oly 12-40: 69.9mm Panasonic 8-18mm: 73.4 mm Tokina 10-17mm: 69.9mm Zen DP-100 N85 port: 76mm Zen DP-170 N85mm: 76mm Nauticam macro port: 70mm Your 8-18 fits in the 7" nauticam dome and the Olympus 12-40mm fits in the Zen DP-170 and will pass through from the back with the Nauticam zoom gear attached. Seeing as how the 12-40 fits a Zen port, it follows also that the Tokina will fit with zoom gear. Where you will run into trouble is with extension rings that you need for the metabones adapter. if you could find an extension ring with the same ID as the Zen ports you could probably do it. It would need to have the same metal port attachment lugs as the Zen - not the plastic piece Nauticam uses on the smaller ports and no internal bits. Otherwise it would be the N85-N120 37.5mm adapter and the Nauticam 4.33" N120 port - which would add up to quite a bit. It's too bad Nauticam didn't use the N100 system for m43.
  6. I lost mine very quickly and never replaced them, but I always use two strobes, I expect you could find a rubber grommet that fits at any auto parts store though you might need to remove the little plate to fit it properly.
  7. Lots of different viewpoints on how often to clean - I would make the point that different strobes have different requirements. Ikelite tends to use face seals a lot on the flat back of their housing and on their strobe battery packs - these o-rings do not need to slide and are normally not greased, so a quick inspection and brush off is entirely appropriate. Others are piston design with o-rings installed on a groove in the cap which is pushed into place - straight sliding against the battery chamber inner wall needs the lightest coat of grease. Most demanding is a screw on cap where the cap is screwed on over an o-ring in a groove so you have sliding friction to deal with and you don't want the o-ring to hang up. On my Z-240s without a light greasing of the cap they have always grabbed the cap and the O-ring turns with the cap unless I put a very light coat of grease on the sliding surface of the cap. The difference it turning resistance is very noticable. The o-ring seems to wipe this light coat off as the cap is screwed on. If you are concerned about stretching your O-rings you can always change them annually. I'm still using my original O-rings 4 years later and they are behaving the same and still sealing perfectly. I don't fell comfortable screwing the cap back on if there are big drops of water clinging to the o-ring which is often the case with my o-rings so I always pull them off and dry out the groove whenever I change batteries.
  8. Nice information there, - what is the brand of the +3 in water diopter - I heard "flip" as the name of it but searching I can't find it - is it still available? I've found that macro lens data seem to be a bit of a state secret, none of the UW sites provide much information to give you an idea of how much magnification you might get and the resulting working distance. It should not be that hard to produce the equivalent of a port chart giving max magnification on the popular macro lens focal lengths and associated working distance.
  9. I dive with 3mm gloves in Sydney summer in the range 18-21°C and last winter I used them down to 14°C, this year I have 5mm Waterproof kevlar gloves they are pretty stiff but with the right technique I can operate INON Z-240 controls. I have the Kevlar as I mostly shore dive and the rocks make short work of straight neoprene gloves. If you plan on staying in the wetsuit a hooded vest is a nice investment and will get you a couple of degress cooler. If your wetsuit fits well you might find it won't fit under - but they are also effective over your suit - the seal between the vest and the hood helps a lot.
  10. Unfortunately aggregation sites are a thing on Instagram and some of them have very big followings. At least it seems they tag the source - if done properly you should get a notification that you have been tagged in a photo and you can see all photos where you have been tagged by clicking a button on your profile page. Instagram doesn't seem to discourage it and I don't know that you can prevent it apart from making your site private which defeats the purpose. Depending on who does it you can get a lot more exposure for example this non-UW image of mine was re-grammed on Planet Birds : Tagged Instagram Image It gained way way more likes and comments than even the most popular image on my site. Having said all that It's not cool to crop off the watermark and a DM to them is probably appropriate and as a commercial site they really should ask - the purpose seems to be to promote their nudi themed phone cases. Nice shots on your page by the way - at least posting got you one new follower
  11. Any number of reasons it might change - technically the limitation is that the focal plane shutter is never fully open and the second curtain starts to close before the first finishes opening so you have a wide slot moving across the frame. This is unlikely to be different between the 1/200 of non Sony strobes and 1/250 with Sony strobes. 1/250 needs to have the shutter open fully before the second curtain starts to move no matter what if any strobe is achieve sync at that speed. In any case the shutter needs to move at the same speed for shutter speeds to remain accurate. The flash needs to trigger just as the first curtain fully opens and the strobe needs to dump its full output before the second curtain starts to close . The concern is the delay of triggering the strobe once the camera sends the signal to trigger the flash - the LED needs to power up, the flash slave sensor needs to react and the strobe needs to dump. For this to change the flash needs to get it's triggering slightly sooner.
  12. Regarding the flash symbol, this will be about whether or not the camera recognizes a flash is attached to the system - the flash symbol flashing means the camera can see that a flash - in this case the Ikelte TTL module is attached. It is not clear from the instructions if the system supports flash ready signal. But the flashing symbol indicates it sees a flash attached. Have you checked your cables for continuity? this link gives some details: https://www.ikelite.com/blogs/faq/wiring-diagrams-test-firing-strobes You can see the functions of each cable - trigger, quench, ready, power and ground. TTL requires all of these to have good continuity to work. For example if you say that the flash symbol in the viewfinder keeps flashing it may not be receiving a ready signal. You need a multi-meter to confirm each individual cable is good. I assume you have checked serial numbers of your strobes with ikelite to confirm they are compatible? The website mentions there are occasional issues of that nature.
  13. I think it's just physics and geometry - the LSD is taking a circular slice out of the beam and feeding it into the optics to produce your snooted beam. it's the same size hole in the back end of the LSD presumably in both cases. The light that doesn't shine into the hole in back will bounce around and some may make its way into the optics but a lot won't. I found a lumens to lux calculator and plugged some numbers in. Assuming the same distance from light source and lumens a 100° beam from the INOn and 130° beam from the retra and a 1000 lumen source the lux of the beam at 10cm is 44555 lux for the INON and 27192 lux for the Retra. I know the Retra has more power, but this just serves to show the difference in lumens per m2 (=lux) between the two beam sizes. The Retra needs to put of 1.6x more lumens to be as bright as the INON in lumens /m2 of beam which is the same as saying give s the same exposure. The Retra flash tube is approx 63mm is diameter (scaled from a photo and known outside dia) and generating a 130° beam but the geometry says that hole in the base of the of the LSD is sampling only a 12° beam as it's nearly the same dia as the tube and only 43mm above it. It's a bit more complex than that as the LSD tube can see both sides of the inside of the tube but the calculations for that get messy. The INON on the other hand has 25mm tubes sitting below the the LSD in a T shape. Quite a difficult geometry to calculate but if we assume its a 25mm dia light source the beam angle to the LSD inlet is 57°, so the LSD is sampling significantly more of the beam just due to geometry. To sample more of the beam you need to get closer to the flash tube. The summary is that because the Retra tube is physically larger and has a wider beam angle significantly less of the light it generates enters the LSD tube. The INON tubes are smaller and have a smaller beam angle so more of their light enters the LSD tube.
  14. If your pockets are deep enough I'm sure it's achievable with a custom adapter made by CNC shop - the problem is this represents a fixed amount of extension and it would need to allow you to make up all of your ports using a combination of available extension rings with another port.
  15. You could indeed switch to the Sony but the Sony with Metabones is reported to work well with Canon 8-15 and presumably other fisheye lenses, but AF with Canon macro is another matter and may be suspect. Sony flash sync speed limitation in manual - 1/250 is only available in TTL as I recall and drops back to a lower speed in manual. The Canon is going to be much more likely to AF well with your Canon lenses. The Metabones adapters are there and work surprisingly well, but you are translating from one system to another, while the Canon adapter is much more likely to play well with your current lenses. Assuming that you use strobes - on that old camera I guess you have electrical sync cables - it is more likely they will transfer across directly to a new Canon system. You mention a view finder -is that an external viewfinder you plan to migrate over? I know that there is a known issue with the EVF on Sony A7 mKIV using Nauticam's viewfinders - the viewfinder is universal - except on the Sony viewfinder. May or may not apply to your viewfinder. see this thread:
×
×
  • Create New...