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ChrisRoss

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ChrisRoss last won the day on March 28 2020

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About ChrisRoss

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    http://www.aus-natural.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney Australia

Additional Info

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    Australia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z-240

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  1. You don't need to make it sound legal. Just a cover letter stating the photo is copyright and you are granting them a licence to use for a specific purpose whatever that may be and conditions such as always attributing copyright, no stripping of EXIF data etc. etc. when they use it. Also state if they want to use it for another purpose they need permission.
  2. Is it actually elliptical and the description has not been lost in translation? The curve of the dome would still be spherical I would think (or hope) though the outline may be cut a different shape but I'm not sure how that would work. I looked at their website and I can't see the domes you list, but did see this small dome which may work? https://www.gio-sim.com/en/porthole-waterproof-cases-for-reflex/p/cristal-port-of-45
  3. I was speaking to a local diver some time back who told me he was having trouble with his ikelite TTL converter. He thought the issue was a problem with sealing on the external TTL module that didn't short but was enough to interfere with the signals. He didn't think the external modules were as reliable as the old internal ones. Yours might be a similar issue? You may need to be more insistent with them - the fact that they can't reproduce the problem does not mean it doesn't exist.
  4. It's been mentioned a few times on WP, this post : Does not seem like it has had great uptake. The EMWL lenses from Nauticam are getting good reviews though. This post mentions the laowa lens and covers the EMWL optics as well: This is a review of the EMWL lenses:
  5. You could use those bendy shock-corded tent poles they use in dome tents perhaps one on each side. You could slot them into holes you drill in the PVC pipe each end. It would need a rigid L frame for the PVC pipe part and perhaps something to pull the poles back closer to the bend of the L at the bottom to avoid having a full semi circle. You would probably need to source a pole and adjust the frame to suit the length of the pole. Attach the fabric at regular intervals with velcro tabs that wrap over the pole.
  6. You need a means to keep the fabric taught and using pockets for the tubes I don't think will do it. I'm not really clear on what you have so far but it sounds like the fabric is supported by tubes on 2 sides only. I would think it needs support and tension all the way around. You might be able to make a square PVC frame and use velcro tabs on the non pocket end to keep it taughtbut you would need more than just a couple of them to get it even I think. Are you trying to make something like this in the pool? https://www.thefront.com.au/backdrops/grey-canvas-backdrop-19ft-x-19ft-hire
  7. I assume you talking about ambient only lighting or shooting video without lights? Most cameras offer the option of a "one-touch white balance" using a slate or some other neutral object to do the balancing off. Some are truly one touch, others require jumping through flaming hoops with multiple button presses to execute. The older Canons were one touch, Olympus still is. For example the G7X mkI was true one touch and the G7XII is at least 8 clicks plus navigating menus. Sony cameras used to have a limit on custom WB range at about 10,000K which was inadequate for UW use, but newer models are reported to be improve din that regard. Olympus, Panasonic and Canon are reported to get good WB using a custom WB. If you are talking auto WB that is pretty poor on most any camera unless you are using strobes and then it is pretty good on most cameras as long as the strobe exposure is strong enough to outshine ambient light. You may still need to tweak and shooting in RAW makes this relatively easy with a number of ways to set a good WB, depending on which editing software you use.
  8. It is far easier to use two identical strobes if you want balanced lighting on both sides of your images. If you want to unbalance the light for some reason, it's easy to come back to balanced again. Different manufacturers will have different powert from each strobe, possibly different colour balance and also different coverage patterns. Unless you want to spring for two new strobes I'd look for a second hand Z-240. Your other option might be a Z330 which should be fairly close but with more power and upgrade to a second Z330 when you can afford it.
  9. OK no worries - the photos you posted previously were over exposed and you'd probably expect most cameras to over expose on auto settings. The photos in the link look pretty good though. It's hard to really recommend settings as it will depend on how much light you have in there and the dynamic range is pretty extreme. If you are shooting wide on the WWL 1/125 should be fine to freeze motion unless fish or divers in the frame are moving fast, you could likely shoot slower if needed. you might want to open up a little maybe in the f5.6-8 range and then adjust ISO to get your exposure where you need it. Have a look at this link : https://www.google.com/search?q=Lanai+First+Cathedral+flikr&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwi8wbjRuYLyAhXSPysKHfprCGIQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=Lanai+First+Cathedral+flikr&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzoICAAQCBAHEB46BggAEAgQHlCi0xBY-IQRYIeIEWgBcAB4AIAB5gGIAf4NkgEGMC4xMC4xmAEAoAEBqgELZ3dzLXdpei1pbWfAAQE&sclient=img&ei=eJD_YLylDNL_rAH616GQBg&client=firefox-b-d#imgrc=BXW1A198p-5J5M I searched for Lanai cathedral Flikr to find flickr images as they have the Exif data attached. One shot was 1/20 @ f5.6 ISO400 and it's maybe a touch over exposed so maybe try 1/60 @ f5.6 ISO800 as a starting point. You could try the same settings if you use strobes to shoot a diver in the foreground of a school of fish or something. It's probably going to be hard to judge exposure by looking at the screen and the histogram will be full range as it will be blocked up in the shadows and the windows will be over exposed. I would suggest bracketing a bit and planning on adjusting the image in RAW to fine tune it.
  10. No need to delete if they are yours, the text sounded like you found them elsewhere, apologies for the confusion. It would be good if you can put them back so people can see the differenc between what you got and what you are after. If you are interested I can tweak the shots you posted to demonstrate the effect. On those shots I would pull the exposure down in raw and pull the highlights down then when you edit them pull the black point across to the histogram in levels. There may be some additional steps needed depending on your exact exposure.
  11. What do you mean by clear light rays? and to clarify are the shots you posted your shots? If not you shouldn't post them and only provide a link to them, if they are yours or you have permission to post that's OK. As to the shots posted the light rays are not clear as the contrast between the light ray and shadow is not there, the exposure needs to be reduced and the contrast increased, which means dropping exposure and then pulling in the black point in levels. Looking at the photo in the linked website you can see the background is completely black. In the posted shot there is some vague detail there and a bit of blue glow to the water/rocks between the rays. Getting higher up in the cavern and shooting down may also help to tame the hot spots so you are not pointing the camera at the light source as much. Try a few different angles. As far WB, you could swim across to the rays and custom WB off a slate illuminated by light from the rays. In theory you could also do that outside as it's the same light at about the same depth.
  12. I think either dome will be good, the fisheye lenses don't have the same problem as rectilinear lenses and dome size is less of an issue. Experience on this site indicates you can expect a small quality improvement with the larger dome, but many people are also happy with the results from smaller domes, so the improvement it would seem is minor. Many people will use the smaller dome not for convenience so much as to allow them to get in closer for CFWA and wide angle macro shots. THat small amount closer you can get makes a surprising difference in size of a small subject in the frame. Whichever dome you buy confirm it has a removable hood so that you you can use the circular fisheye end of the zoom range.
  13. I would think you probably go strobe free unless you have a diver or some other subject in the foreground within 1m or so that you want to illuminate. The strobes can't penetrate the water very far so the effect can look odd unless you have a good foreground to illuminate. The shots you posted are quite blown where the light is coming through the holes so over exposed - you need to balance the exposure and let the black areas go completely black. You'll also want to custom white balance in the light rays, though you can always come back in raw processing to fix it up. Shutter speed is enough to avoid blur you could go quite low as you are shooting wide unless you have fish or divers in the frame which might need something like 1/125 to freeze motion. If you are not sure you can always bracket shots. BTW if the images you posted are not your shots you shouldn't be pasting them in here without permission, the correct etiquette is to provide a link to the shot.
  14. It's so close, they quote the Panasonic lens as being 49mm long. Have you tried asking backscatter this specific question? It should be a simple matter for them to try it in a housing if they haven't done so already. As for the WWL if it works on the Nauticam port there's no reason it won't work on the AOI port as long as it fits well and is mounted so it's a close fit. The only unknown is the clear diameter of the port glass, but the review on the EPL-7 doesn't mention any issues with vignetting so you should be fine there, assuming it's the same port
  15. Back button is the solution , there's a different setting somewhere to change it so the shutter button no longer activates AF, you should be able to google it to see where it is done in the menus.
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