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ChrisRoss last won the day on November 6

ChrisRoss had the most liked content!

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About ChrisRoss

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    Great Hammerhead

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    Sydney Australia

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z-240

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  1. A couple of things to remember with lighting as above the power output of lights is much much less than strobes and are only useful in macro ranges. In shallow water you can use custom white balance to bring some of the colours back. Strobes are definitely the best solution for still images, but you need to be close within a meter or less to get enough light, water soaks up the light very quickly. The Archon light you mention is only 2600 lumens. This link here compares a 14000 lumen light to a strobe: There's 5-6 stops difference in the lighting between the two the image shows correct exposure obtained at 1/250 @ f2.8 ISO200. With the wide angle lens and the proposed Canon DSLR you would probably want to be at f11 which would mean an exposure of 1/15 @ f11 ISO200 which is too low a shutter speed and would be over exposed by ambient light in shallow water most likely and this is with a 14000 lumen light not your 2600 lumen light. This all shows that only way the lights would provide sufficient light is if they are very close as in macro work. If you use a 1" sensor camera f5.6 is enough and the smaller cheaper strobes like the INON S-2000 are adequate. With a DSLR you will be looking at f11 and definitely needing the bigger more powerful strobes like the Z-330 or YS-D2J if you are looking at new strobes. You could buy the camera now and strobes later and just shoot in less than 10m and get reasonable results with custom white balance and shooting Raw.
  2. That's good; the vacuum electronics is $170 : https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwixv8eutZ3mAhUB7XMBHe1bAoIQFjAAegQIBBAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.nauticam.com%2Fproducts%2Fvacuum-detection-moisture-alarm-pcb-set-incl-on-off-switch-and-mount-buzzer-moisture-sensor-battery-holder-and-4-colour-led-2-batteries-incl&usg=AOvVaw38prwahy59JVFt-iVFdPJr If that requires replacing it'll add to the cost. Always better to see the thing in person and play with all the controls to help decide, thats why I suggested taking it to Bluewater as it's relatively close. If there is corrosion on the o-ring seating surfaces for instance that may junk the housing potentially. You can test the leak alarm by wetting your finger and touching the contacts to see if that works.
  3. You are in LA? Why not call into Blue Water photo and ask for an opinion, They are in Culver City. I have called in there a couple of times and they have been very helpful - you want to check if the vacuum electronics are working if they are not there is $$ there to replace. I would think it would need a complete disassembly and service to allow you to clean all the gunk out. Find out out how much a complete overhaul would be and see if that cost plus the housing price would still be reasonable.
  4. It displays the image it has just taken in whichever of the two you have been using - so if you expose in the viewfinder it will display the image taken in the viewfinder. If you are using the LCD to compose - the image appears on the LCD. There is a menu setting for the length of time it will display the image just taken - default I think is 0.5 sec. This is in the spanner icon in the menu under RecView. The idea is you don't need to change from viewfinder to LCD to see the image just taken. If you press the review button that defaults to displaying on the LCD. If you want to see the image on the LCD as above press the button to the left of the viewfinder. There are a number of other EVF settings you need to set for example the EVF auto switch should be off or the EVF stays on because the housing makes it seem like there is always an eye at the viewfinder. There is live view boost which always displays a bright image when composing - not attempting to show actual exposure.
  5. Canon SLRs and the Tokina 10-17 are a popular option, the tokina is the not the sharpest around but is reasonable and the range is good, though apart from very close focus wide angle work you need to change lenses to do semi-macro. The 18-55 will fill the frame horizontally with a 60mm long subject at closest focus, but the 18mm end is not that wide, similar to your TG-5 without an accessory lens. Bear in mind the 180° diagonal field of view is quite a different beast to your TG-5 even with the dome system and you need to get much much closer. From the pics it looks like you freedive? you may want to physically hold the rig before deciding, the dimensions are 19x16x15 cm. It is quite boxy. The Pany LX-10 kit is much more compact. The other thing to consider is a vacuum system, I believe Ikelite offer an optional kit. If you are popping up and down freediving, spending a lot of the time at the surface you are actually more prone to leaks - o-rings need to be loaded to seal properly and loading is minimal at the surface. The vacuum system pre loads the o-rings allows you to test for leaks before diving and also means it is physically difficult to impossible to dislodge the ports or housing back. You have not mentioned strobes or lights so I assume this is not of interest? The ikelite requires electrical sync for strobes which is another set of o-rings to maintain - I much prefer fibre optic triggering.
  6. You might something secondhand here, but being in Australia (I guess based on $AU) will limit your options quite possibly. Going new you could get a G7X II for about $3K in a Nauticam housing and add on a wet lens for wide angle for maybe $700. Or you could go with a Fantasea housing which is $799 rather than the $1800 Nauticam, Isotta have an aluminium housing for $1500. I'm concentrating on the 1" sensor cameras as m43 and bigger sensors are an all together bigger investment and the cheaper options tend to have limitations in supported lens ports. On the wide lenses, this is a bit of a minefield and trying to find details on all the lenses is difficult, many are designed for 28mm lenses and only give a 100° field of view and don't zoom through. There are newer options better suited to cameras that are 24mm at the wide end. Zoom through will definitely help with big animals that don't want to get close. Here is a link to some recommended wet lenses: https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/guide-to-best-wet-wide-lenses Looking in the classifieds this looks like it might be a good deal: https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/guide-to-best-wet-wide-lenses If the owner will ship to Australia, probably be close to $4k by the time it gets through customs: The LX-10 is the top pick for 1" compacts from Backscatter's article: https://www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/Backscatter-Best-Underwater-Compact-Cameras
  7. Depends on how close you can get to them and if you want wide and macro on the same dive, a starting point is a 1" sensor compact which can take wet lenses for both wide and macro shooting, as you move up to bigger sensors you become more restricted to either wide or macro on any one dive - there are solutions that can give you both with large sensors but they tend to be very expensive. If you have some idea on budget that would help.
  8. The problem with the S&S lens is it is too big for most m43 lenses. 77mm filter threads if I recall correctly. Basically all it is doing is flattening the field, the lens is imaging a curved surface in the virtual image which means the image plane it produces is also curved. The lens changes the focus to that the focal surface produced is flatter. It's probably not too dissimilar to field flatteners used in astronomical imaging. Many optical designs produce a curved focal surface and a meniscus corrector used close to the focal plane is a common solution - not practical for using in a small format camera, but the same principle seems to be applied with a correcting lens in front of the lens. In theory you could also do it with an optic attached to the lens mount like a teleconverter, but a front mounted optic is much more universal. Interesting that the new WACP is rectilinear, pity it's so heavy and $$$.
  9. some rules in English: http://pupcabopulmo.mx/?en 8 ft minimum distance to coral and no flash with sharks Here's the bit about permits via Google translate: Photography Cabo Pulmo National Park offers wonderful views of both water and land. In case of wanting to take underwater photography WITHOUT PURPOSE, it is important that the Park Directorate be requested a letter of No objection through a letter addressed to the Director where the date on which the activity will be carried out is mentioned, the person in charge of the activity, the technical characteristics of the equipment (camera, flash, accessories), the objective of the activity and the name of the company with which you have contracted your tour. Said letter and copy of the identification of the person responsible should be sent via email to: lourdes.getino@conanp.gob.mx To schedule your visit and the activities you wish to perform, contact the suppliers tormented at:
  10. Interesting, no idea why they would recommend a +2 diopter, it's mainly used with older wide zooms that don't focus close enough to focus on the virtual image with the dome. A diopter is a different lens to the S&S lens, the diopter allows the lens to focus closer while the S&S lens is a field flattener- it brings the edges if the field into focus without impacting the centre. Interesting too about the extension, Nauticam's port charts(linked from their website) still recommend a 90mm extension for the 230mm dome (this is the Nikon 16-35, right?) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ADK0utEboUHDMCZYC4IIqVYacyVvDJ17/view
  11. Get a vacuum system on your housing!! Don't leave the camera unattended in the tank, pull it out and cover it with a towel. I have not seen the EM-5III full specs , but the EM-1 II battery is significantly larger than the EM-5 II, with the smaller body the 5-MkIII probably has the smaller battery. The EM-1 II can do 3 dives and still have capacity left. On the subject of low light the smaller sensors make up some ground as you can use them with a wider aperture, you'll be at f11-16 with a 16mm lens on full frame, but f8 is fine on m43. While we are talking battery life check the specs for the EOS-R it's rated for 350 shots, the EM- II is rated for 440. I'm not sure what the aversion to IBIS is about, the Olympus is capable of insanely slow shutter speeds hand holding and it helps stabilise the viewfinder or example in closeup work. I just leave it on all the time. Abes of maine had a pretty bad reputation a few years back and is unlikely to have changed. google it!! Anything cheaper than B&H should be regarded with suspicion IMO. I would also suggest checking the sizes of the various domes that you will need for full frame wide angle in your hands, they really are quite big.
  12. I would suggest looking from a total system perspective rather than zeroing in on a model to buy. Full frame is in general more expensive than APS-C than m43. This applies to cameras, lenses, housings and domes. The options for lenses available are quite varied as well. You mentioned you were concerned about dome size, this scales with sensor size and focal length. For example a 16mm rectilinear lens (with a 16-35 zoom for example) requires a 230mm dome to get the best out of it in corners, while a m43 8mm lens (16mm equivalent) can be used in a 170/180mm dome which is much much smaller. With rectilinear removable lens models, the only thing a zoom changes is the length of extension required to get the dome to perform at its best and there is really no downside using the zoom from this aspect the modern ultra wide (weitwinkel) zooms are plenty sharp enough. If you are talking fisheye lenses it's a different story, they don't need big domes to perform at their best. I note that you are talking APS-C, if you are thinking of Canon I would suggest you don't discount the Olympus EM-1 MkII, it is very close in performance to the Canon APS_C sensors and not far behind the Nikon D500. It has the advantage of using smaller domes, housings will be cheaper depending on model chosen and lenses are significantly cheaper than APS-C and full frame Canon lenses with a great many choices of focal length. The smaller size is a significant advantage for travel. This link allows you to compare test data for a Canon, Nikon APS-C and the Olympus EM-1 MkII.
  13. If you look at the pics on Nauticam's page you could scale it assuming an N120 mount, so the mount would be 120mm diameter approx. This would mean the dome dia. would be 200-240mm. The MRSP is quoted as $5-7,000 USD. so not cheap! They are talking about a floatation collar so a bigger concern might be weight? There have been discussions in other threads about what the actual field of view obtained from WWL and WACP and the conclusion there was that they produced barrel distortion and is close to a fisheye and it extended the diagonal field of view more so than the horizontal and vertical, so for example with the WWL-1 the 130 deg file dof view ends up being equivalent to a 10mm rectilinear lens on the diagonal but on the horizontal it is equivalent to 14mm. This link explains: https://interceptor121.com/2019/05/ That is not to say it is bad just to know what you will get with the optics. The WACP-2 may or may not do this, it's designed to work with 14-16mm lens rather than 28mm lenses and is only 0.82x (instead of .36x of WACP and WWL). Probably need to wait to see what it actually delivers, in terms of distortion.
  14. Reading Marsh's post about shoe-horning lenses into non supported domes makes me happy I went with m43 where just about all the lens choices are available and work out of the box with a zoom gear already engineered and plenty of dome choices already sorted out .. With the EM-1 MkII the image quality is very close particularly if I do my bit and expose well and it all just works.
  15. It may not be possible as camera needs to know the characteristics of the flash to get it to time correctly. How are you triggering? electrically with sync cords or optically with a flash trigger or TTL converter? Underwater flash can be quite confusing and there's lots of ways of doing it, some TTL converters I think might be able to do it: https://www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/Underwater-Camera-and-Housing-TTL-Reference-Guide
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