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ChrisRoss

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ChrisRoss last won the day on March 28

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About ChrisRoss

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    Great Hammerhead

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  • Website URL
    http://www.aus-natural.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney Australia

Additional Info

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    Australia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z-240

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  1. When I was training to dive a few years back I was struck by the issues my instructors had with air transmitters constantly beeping and other issues which lead me to rely on an SPG. I don't find it a big deal to look at the gauge regularly. I find I know pretty much where it's going to be based on dive time from my wrist computer. I have an oceanic basic model and it's good enough for the diving I do.
  2. I agree, glass especially will remain intact and inert for many many years - about the same life span as any small rocks you might find and it does break it will convert to the equivalent of a pebble. Metal will corrode away eventually much like a shipwreck - plastic is unique in that it breaks down to pieces that will float and absorb toxins and have potential for ingestion. I would be inclined to leave items such as glass and metal containers in place.
  3. Lots of people shoot 16-35mm zooms which include those focal lengths. At the 16-18mm range an 8" dome might be a little small for good corners but beyond that no issue. As long as you can work out the right extension to use there should be no issues.
  4. Or go with the 16-35mm f4 it's sharper than the II and just short of the III and cheaper than both. When you put it behind a dome port and stop down to f11-16 a lot of that extra sharpness disappears. Compared to the f4 lens unless you need f2.8 on land it provides no advantage underwater.
  5. I would remove it. I don't believe they have any function above or below water except in specific circumstances like protection from salt spray or shooting in close to waterfalls etc. I have seen specific cases where it has been shown that UV filters are the cause of cause immediately noticeable image degradation. Due to poor coatings or the filter glass not being flat and parallel to the required degree. If you are going to add a filter it should be manufactured to the same standards of grinding/polishing/coating as your lens elements. Not all of them are.
  6. In addition to cost, my objection to Lightroom is being tied in with proprietary formats. The catalogue and your edits are stored in a way that only Lightroom can access them and if you stop paying you can't get to them. You don't lose your images - the Raw images remain but you lose your edits unless you have exported it as a tiff file or similar format. There are many alternatives to PS emerging these days - affinity photo is one that gets good reviews and is reasonably priced. I use PS CS6 have not gone to CC and Capture One Pro. Capture One pro has many of the capabilities of lightroom in catalogueing images though the learning curve is a little steeper and these days it has many but not all the functions of PS. Whatever you choose be sure it allows 16 bit editing of at the very minimum the raw file. 8 Bit editing is quite prone to banding and posterisation - most common in UW images in similar tone blue water that gradually brightens towards the surface like a gradient. All the options discussed so far allow 16 bit except maybe PS elements which among other things will not allow layers in 16 bit - you can work around it by setting your levels as the first step then converting but it's not ideal. Elements does RAW conversions in 16 bit so you are OK there.
  7. Hi Duncan, I keep my backup strategy fairly simple - made easier as I work off a desktop which has a large storage drive installed. I have an external drive which is only powered up when I'm backing up the Hard drive. To do the backup I use Free File Sync which basically looks at the two folders and just updates them with changes. It may get a little finicky setting up to backup a new folder each time, but I think it should work fine for what you want.
  8. The trigger is setup to work with the flexitray and bracket - housing is not relevant apart from whether or not the extension will reach the shutter release on your housing and the fact that you don't have brackets if you don't have a Nauticam housing. However, Nauticam offer a universal RH bracket to allow mounting of the trigger: https://www.nauticam.com/products/universal-right-handle-bracket-for-use-with-25200 if you don't have a set of housing brackets . For a Nauticam item it is surprisingly cheap. Note this is for the Mirroless/compact housing shutter release extension which looks a little different to the one in your pic.
  9. It does seem odd the Lumix lens is about 10mm shorter than the Leica, but in the 5516.15 port the front element will be 20mm further into the dome than the Leica lens is in the 5516.15 plus 1.2" extension, so should not vignette at all. Even in the 5516.16 it will be 10mm further into the dome. Seems like a typo or error in the port chart.
  10. Don't have direct experience. you'll probably be at f5.6 +/- with a G7X. You need quite a lot of lumens to get reasonable exposures. The following link is a test of a 14,000 lumen light vs a strobe and shows the exposure with the video light to be 1/250 @ f2.8 ISO200 at 1m distance. It might not be apples and apples with the video lights you mention as the light on the subject will vary with the beam angle of the light., but assuming they are close and doing some rough calculations a 3500 lumen light (2 stops less) would need 1/60 @ f4 ISO400, but on a bright sunny day in clear water, ambient light exposure might be 1/250 @ f5.6 ISO200. You need to match or nearly so the ambient light so it brings up the colours in comparison to the ambient light. That's a long-winded way of saying you need a lot of light to match the ambient sunlight exposure. You probably could shoot raw and pull the colours up as you are adding some red - yellow light and get some significant improvement, but still won't be as good as if you put enough light in to balance with ambient as you push colour into the water as well. It also shows why strobes are still so much better than video lights for this type of work.
  11. A lot depends on what camera you want to use. A TG-6 wide angle at f2.8 needs a lot less light than a DSLR with a rectilinear wide angle lens in a dome which might be at f11-16. Each additional stop is 1/2 the light so going from f2.8 to f11 is 1/16 of the light getting to the sensor.
  12. It's actually the extension that is too long. If you look at Ikelite's webpage you'll see the 5516.17 is a longer port as it includes built in extension. https://www.ikelite.com/collections/dlm-lens-ports?sort_by=price-descending I would think that the chances of the 12-60 not vignetting in a 5516.17 used with no extension tube are very good as the total extension is 0.2" shorter and the report is only slight vignetting . The Oly 12-40 lens is about 87mm long at 12mm compared to the Leica 12-60 being a reported 86mm. The Oly is reported to only vignette due to IS sensor movement and the 12-60 says slight vignetting, which means that you only need to move the port back towards the lens a small amount to remove vignetting.
  13. There are people using the probe UW here in Australia for diving. Looking at the probe it is a small diameter cylinder which is a very strong item and the front lens small so also quite strong. Assuming it is o-ring sealed, if it is good for 1-2m immersion, it is good for much greater depth I would think. The manufacturer just hasn't done the rating calculations I suspect. Having said that getting back to the OP question, the INON device is designed for the EF-S 60mm lens. You could quite likely use the INON device with a 60mm lens and a metabones 1x adapter on micro43 along with an appropriate adapter. I found this review of the INON UFL lens here with some sample pics: http://www.reefwreckandcritter.com/blog/march-20th-2017
  14. there is the Venus optics Laowa probe lens: https://www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/Laowa-Venus-24mm-Macro-Probe-Lens-Underwater-Review can be used on a Nauticam housing - it's EF mount but you could use it adapted, perhaps with a 0.7x metabones adapter to get some of the field of view back.
  15. It seems strange that a 12mm lens would vignette in an 6" dome, the cause would be that the extension is too long placing it too far back inside the dome. The solution would be the next smallest size extension, though unfortunately does not look like Ikelite makes one. Regarding the diopter, this seems like a relic from yesteryear, the only reason to use a diopter is so that the lens will focus a little closer and is used for an UW lens with a long minimum focus distance that can't reach focus on the virtual image. The 12-60 has a min focus distance of 20cm - this is from the image sensor, so it will almost focus on the dome itself. So in summary a diopter is not needed. I don't see how a diopter could remove vignetting. Do you have the equipment yet? Looking through the port charts I see the GX85 DLM-A housing for the GX85 does not report vignetting but the DLM-B does - seems quite strange, but if I've read their website correctly this seems like the only solution. The issue is that to zoom you need a port with a zoom gear - the housing does not have zoom control and the only port with a zoom knob they offer is the dinky little 6" port. I can see how that would vignette on you. I see on Ikelite's website they offer a 5516 dome with zoom with 1" of extension built in- that is 0.2" less than using the 1.2" extension. This would move the lens forward in the dome and might work to reduce the vignetting it's the 5516.17 - you could aks if that is compatible with your 12-60??? It also looks like the olympus 12-40 is similar but maybe less severe - it mentions vignetting due to image stabilization - the lens sensor moves in Oly bodies which would not happen with a Panasonic body without in-body IS. It is a great lens also just a touch less reach. Maybe you could discuss these options with Ikelite or one of the retailers?
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