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ChrisRoss last won the day on March 28

ChrisRoss had the most liked content!

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About ChrisRoss

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    Sydney Australia

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z-240

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  1. Unfortunately aggregation sites are a thing on Instagram and some of them have very big followings. At least it seems they tag the source - if done properly you should get a notification that you have been tagged in a photo and you can see all photos where you have been tagged by clicking a button on your profile page. Instagram doesn't seem to discourage it and I don't know that you can prevent it apart from making your site private which defeats the purpose. Depending on who does it you can get a lot more exposure for example this non-UW image of mine was re-grammed on Planet Birds : Tagged Instagram Image It gained way way more likes and comments than even the most popular image on my site. Having said all that It's not cool to crop off the watermark and a DM to them is probably appropriate and as a commercial site they really should ask - the purpose seems to be to promote their nudi themed phone cases. Nice shots on your page by the way - at least posting got you one new follower
  2. Any number of reasons it might change - technically the limitation is that the focal plane shutter is never fully open and the second curtain starts to close before the first finishes opening so you have a wide slot moving across the frame. This is unlikely to be different between the 1/200 of non Sony strobes and 1/250 with Sony strobes. 1/250 needs to have the shutter open fully before the second curtain starts to move no matter what if any strobe is achieve sync at that speed. In any case the shutter needs to move at the same speed for shutter speeds to remain accurate. The flash needs to trigger just as the first curtain fully opens and the strobe needs to dump its full output before the second curtain starts to close . The concern is the delay of triggering the strobe once the camera sends the signal to trigger the flash - the LED needs to power up, the flash slave sensor needs to react and the strobe needs to dump. For this to change the flash needs to get it's triggering slightly sooner.
  3. Regarding the flash symbol, this will be about whether or not the camera recognizes a flash is attached to the system - the flash symbol flashing means the camera can see that a flash - in this case the Ikelte TTL module is attached. It is not clear from the instructions if the system supports flash ready signal. But the flashing symbol indicates it sees a flash attached. Have you checked your cables for continuity? this link gives some details: https://www.ikelite.com/blogs/faq/wiring-diagrams-test-firing-strobes You can see the functions of each cable - trigger, quench, ready, power and ground. TTL requires all of these to have good continuity to work. For example if you say that the flash symbol in the viewfinder keeps flashing it may not be receiving a ready signal. You need a multi-meter to confirm each individual cable is good. I assume you have checked serial numbers of your strobes with ikelite to confirm they are compatible? The website mentions there are occasional issues of that nature.
  4. I think it's just physics and geometry - the LSD is taking a circular slice out of the beam and feeding it into the optics to produce your snooted beam. it's the same size hole in the back end of the LSD presumably in both cases. The light that doesn't shine into the hole in back will bounce around and some may make its way into the optics but a lot won't. I found a lumens to lux calculator and plugged some numbers in. Assuming the same distance from light source and lumens a 100° beam from the INOn and 130° beam from the retra and a 1000 lumen source the lux of the beam at 10cm is 44555 lux for the INON and 27192 lux for the Retra. I know the Retra has more power, but this just serves to show the difference in lumens per m2 (=lux) between the two beam sizes. The Retra needs to put of 1.6x more lumens to be as bright as the INON in lumens /m2 of beam which is the same as saying give s the same exposure. The Retra flash tube is approx 63mm is diameter (scaled from a photo and known outside dia) and generating a 130° beam but the geometry says that hole in the base of the of the LSD is sampling only a 12° beam as it's nearly the same dia as the tube and only 43mm above it. It's a bit more complex than that as the LSD tube can see both sides of the inside of the tube but the calculations for that get messy. The INON on the other hand has 25mm tubes sitting below the the LSD in a T shape. Quite a difficult geometry to calculate but if we assume its a 25mm dia light source the beam angle to the LSD inlet is 57°, so the LSD is sampling significantly more of the beam just due to geometry. To sample more of the beam you need to get closer to the flash tube. The summary is that because the Retra tube is physically larger and has a wider beam angle significantly less of the light it generates enters the LSD tube. The INON tubes are smaller and have a smaller beam angle so more of their light enters the LSD tube.
  5. If your pockets are deep enough I'm sure it's achievable with a custom adapter made by CNC shop - the problem is this represents a fixed amount of extension and it would need to allow you to make up all of your ports using a combination of available extension rings with another port.
  6. You could indeed switch to the Sony but the Sony with Metabones is reported to work well with Canon 8-15 and presumably other fisheye lenses, but AF with Canon macro is another matter and may be suspect. Sony flash sync speed limitation in manual - 1/250 is only available in TTL as I recall and drops back to a lower speed in manual. The Canon is going to be much more likely to AF well with your Canon lenses. The Metabones adapters are there and work surprisingly well, but you are translating from one system to another, while the Canon adapter is much more likely to play well with your current lenses. Assuming that you use strobes - on that old camera I guess you have electrical sync cables - it is more likely they will transfer across directly to a new Canon system. You mention a view finder -is that an external viewfinder you plan to migrate over? I know that there is a known issue with the EVF on Sony A7 mKIV using Nauticam's viewfinders - the viewfinder is universal - except on the Sony viewfinder. May or may not apply to your viewfinder. see this thread:
  7. Sony may be a big player above water now, but the underwater market is a very small sector of the overall market and these things take time. Add to this the fact that the Sony UW lineup is incomplete without native fisheyes and fewer macro options and many of their models are limited to 1/160 or 1/200 sync speed means their numbers in use underwater are more limited then they might otherwise be. The strobes you refer I think perhaps are the hard wired strobes with internal TTL electronics like the OneUW models or the Seacam strobes, while the TTL triggers are LED based fibre-optic based. I think perhaps that those triggers maybe easier to develop as they are readily available for many models. In comparison making strobes that are model specific means you would need many different models of strobes. Add to this that there are many choices for UW strobes S&S, INON and Retra are all camera brand neutral only the very pricey Seacam and OneUW and perhaps others have Nikon or Canon specific strobes. With this segmentation the numbers of brand specific strobes made have to be very small.
  8. very similar image quality, the difference in battery life is noticeable though- I used the EM-5 MkII prior to the EM-1 mkII and you get quite a few less photos. I have not used the 5 mkIII but the AF is almost night and day between the 1 mkII and 5 mkII.
  9. Just to clarify you say that settings and/or conditions may be different, have you done low light shooting successfully in the past? Wide angle lenses typically have quite good depth of field and fairly snappy to focus, so they need to be along way off on distance before the picture is completely out of focus. Typically the suggestion for AF is to use a single AF point in continuous AF using rear button AF and re-composing if required. Definitely confirm the AF is working on land. I'd also suggest looking at a few images to see which AF point was used - Canon software can do this as can Breezebrowser but I don't believe PS can do it. You may be able to see if the AF has snagged something other than your intended target.
  10. I assume you are talking about using the 14-42 with your existing WWL? There are quite a few different 14-42 lenses available and you would need to select the right flat port to go with whichever 14-42 you choose, This is the WWL-1 port chart : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Cyk7BxeB8sVcmnoG03Up4yilm0i62xFg/view If you were to choose the Pany 14-42 II lens it uses the macro port 35 - you can use that port and a 30m extension ring to house the olympus 60mm macro lens, in the future.
  11. I would expect the GX9 to perform very similarly to the GH5 in image quality, both have a 20.2 MP sensor, though the GX9 was released a year later so the images are going to be very similar. After that the difference swill be thing like AF, handling, battery life etc. I would expect the main downside of the GX9 to be shorter battery life than the GH5 (and the EM-1 MkII). Here's a comparison of the GX9 to a GH5 : https://www.apotelyt.com/compare-camera/panasonic-gh5-vs-panasonic-gx9 Another camera to consider might be the G9 - it's closer to the EM-1 II in stills performance and Nauticam make a housing for it. Beyond that I have not heard of many using it either. Unfortunately Nauticam chose to make it a seperate back style housing rather than the swing open door style of the Olympus housing so it is a similar price to the GH% and $700 more than an EM-1 MkII housing. The housing for the GX-9 is a compact style housing and does not include a tray/handles which you will want to buy if you are using strobes. It will approach the EM-1 MkII housing in size when the tray is added apart from the bulge for the mini flash unit. To me the biggest downside for the GX-9 is the small battery and fewer shots compared to the EM-1 mkII/G9/GH5 cameras. The GX9 AF also doesn't seem to be as good based on surface reviews, it is probably fine for wide angle work but may present some difficulty with macro lenses.
  12. The INON strobes have a screw on cap and the o-ring needs enough lube so the cap will screw on - I find my Z-240 caps gets quite tight when removing it when changing the battery so every battery change I relube at least a thin smear on the cap. Different strobes might have different requirements, but INON's need enough lube to screw on the cap. You have to be careful removing the caps sometimes.
  13. The moisture sensor is a conductivity sensor and will alarm if a current flows between the two wires and it will alarm if you lick your finger and touch the electrodes.. If you had a drop of I assume saltwater in there that caused the alarm it may not be dry - if there is salt residue it may draw in moisture, you may need to clean off the wires in the sensorand dry them. I don't know exactly what the Aqutica wires look like, typically it is two wires held close but not touching by a plastic sleeve. If the wires touch or there is a damp area between them the alarm will sound. I would suggest giving the area a thorough clean and dry it out - rinse with fresh water followed by drying and a dip in isopropy; alchohol to dry it out may help. Examine the two wires closely to confirm they do not touch each other, As far as how the drop got in - multiple paths exist _ I assume you had a vacuum active on the housing at the time? pressing a button with a not so good o-ring or applying a bending force to the port to allow the o-ring to lift may let in a drop? Pulling a vacuum and monitoring for an extended period is my suggestion. Try the various buttons to see if they generate a leak - pull on the port gently etc. waiting for a few minutes after each trial.
  14. Thanks Adam and Alex, nice video. I shoot with the Olympus EM-1 MkII and my lens list includes Panasonic 8mm fisheye and 7-14mm, Olympus 12-40mm and 60mm macro and I also have the Panasonic 30mm macro. Most of my diving is temperate waters around Sydney and my most used setups are the macro lenses and the 12-40mm lens. Our dive sites are rocky reefs with a mix of nudis, small stuff like pygmy pipe horses and larger subjects like weedy sea dragons (300mm long), giant cuttlefish (up to 600mm long), port jackson sharks (1000-1500mm), blue gropers (700mm), red Indian fish (up to 300mm) and schooling fish particularly on the more open ocean sites. The 12-40 I think is very useful for these types of dives. I find the fisheye too wide for most dive sites/subjects I shoot. I can switch between 50mm nudis and 1500mm PJ's on the same dive depending on what I find. I would though like to try the MWL-1 and 30mm macro on some of the dive sites, sounds like it would be an interesting combination for the shooting I do.
  15. I would have to agree with @Interceptor121, I'm not a huge Sony fan either, the bodies may be small but the ports not necessarily, depending on what you want to shoot. The fisheye ports are all the same size, rectilinears need bigger ports on bigger sensors. I Use the EM- Mkii, great little camera, AF is good, great for still images and currently some really good deals on the body. If you have the WWL already, less of an issue and you could use the right 14-42 lens with flat port on either the Olympus or Panasonic body. I think it boils down to how much video you plan to do, the Panasonic being favoured for video.
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