Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


ChrisRoss last won the day on November 6

ChrisRoss had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

122 Excellent

About ChrisRoss

  • Rank
    Great Hammerhead

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sydney Australia

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z-240

Recent Profile Visitors

31503 profile views
  1. The port you are using makes a big difference, domes requiring significantly less added buoyancy than macro ports. You will need differing amounts of buoyancy when you change from one to the other setup. Best method is assemble everything and then weigh it on a luggage scale with the rig fully submerged. The weight UW is equal to the amount of buoyancy needed to be neutral. Once you have the weight look for arm combinations with buoyancy up to but not greater than the UW weight. You don't want to be positive. The issue you run up against is that the arms are only available in widely spaced buoyancy so getting an exact neutral combination is difficult unless you want to go positive and add weight in small increments to get neutral. You also need to use them in pairs to keep the housing symmetrical otherwise it will be trying to twist as you shoot and that further limits the possible combinations of arms you can use. The closest combination might be two large or could be 4 smaller arms.
  2. If the coke doesn't work, you may be able to apply a new anti reflective coating - it would require removing the glass from the dome - there are vendors in Australia who will do the coating and you would need to find someone to remove and replace the glass or find out how it is done and do it yourself - you would need to source a new o-ring seal for the dome glass. Talk to these people for the coating: http://www.opticalcoating.com.au/ You would need to discuss the best type of coating to use for saltwater service with them.
  3. macro support not so good either, the 60mm which would be the choice for UW macro only goes to 0.5x by itself.
  4. Rather than say it's good idea to discharge the capacitor - I would say it is essential. A 50 W-sec flash with that energy stored at 330V could fatal in the right circumstances. Don't fiddle unless you know what you are doing. Shorting such a capacitor could vapourise the wire used to short it and even cause the capacitor to explode. You also need to be sure the capacitor does not build charge again once discharged normally.
  5. A couple of things to remember with lighting as above the power output of lights is much much less than strobes and are only useful in macro ranges. In shallow water you can use custom white balance to bring some of the colours back. Strobes are definitely the best solution for still images, but you need to be close within a meter or less to get enough light, water soaks up the light very quickly. The Archon light you mention is only 2600 lumens. This link here compares a 14000 lumen light to a strobe: There's 5-6 stops difference in the lighting between the two the image shows correct exposure obtained at 1/250 @ f2.8 ISO200. With the wide angle lens and the proposed Canon DSLR you would probably want to be at f11 which would mean an exposure of 1/15 @ f11 ISO200 which is too low a shutter speed and would be over exposed by ambient light in shallow water most likely and this is with a 14000 lumen light not your 2600 lumen light. This all shows that only way the lights would provide sufficient light is if they are very close as in macro work. If you use a 1" sensor camera f5.6 is enough and the smaller cheaper strobes like the INON S-2000 are adequate. With a DSLR you will be looking at f11 and definitely needing the bigger more powerful strobes like the Z-330 or YS-D2J if you are looking at new strobes. You could buy the camera now and strobes later and just shoot in less than 10m and get reasonable results with custom white balance and shooting Raw.
  6. That's good; the vacuum electronics is $170 : https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwixv8eutZ3mAhUB7XMBHe1bAoIQFjAAegQIBBAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.nauticam.com%2Fproducts%2Fvacuum-detection-moisture-alarm-pcb-set-incl-on-off-switch-and-mount-buzzer-moisture-sensor-battery-holder-and-4-colour-led-2-batteries-incl&usg=AOvVaw38prwahy59JVFt-iVFdPJr If that requires replacing it'll add to the cost. Always better to see the thing in person and play with all the controls to help decide, thats why I suggested taking it to Bluewater as it's relatively close. If there is corrosion on the o-ring seating surfaces for instance that may junk the housing potentially. You can test the leak alarm by wetting your finger and touching the contacts to see if that works.
  7. You are in LA? Why not call into Blue Water photo and ask for an opinion, They are in Culver City. I have called in there a couple of times and they have been very helpful - you want to check if the vacuum electronics are working if they are not there is $$ there to replace. I would think it would need a complete disassembly and service to allow you to clean all the gunk out. Find out out how much a complete overhaul would be and see if that cost plus the housing price would still be reasonable.
  8. It displays the image it has just taken in whichever of the two you have been using - so if you expose in the viewfinder it will display the image taken in the viewfinder. If you are using the LCD to compose - the image appears on the LCD. There is a menu setting for the length of time it will display the image just taken - default I think is 0.5 sec. This is in the spanner icon in the menu under RecView. The idea is you don't need to change from viewfinder to LCD to see the image just taken. If you press the review button that defaults to displaying on the LCD. If you want to see the image on the LCD as above press the button to the left of the viewfinder. There are a number of other EVF settings you need to set for example the EVF auto switch should be off or the EVF stays on because the housing makes it seem like there is always an eye at the viewfinder. There is live view boost which always displays a bright image when composing - not attempting to show actual exposure.
  9. Canon SLRs and the Tokina 10-17 are a popular option, the tokina is the not the sharpest around but is reasonable and the range is good, though apart from very close focus wide angle work you need to change lenses to do semi-macro. The 18-55 will fill the frame horizontally with a 60mm long subject at closest focus, but the 18mm end is not that wide, similar to your TG-5 without an accessory lens. Bear in mind the 180° diagonal field of view is quite a different beast to your TG-5 even with the dome system and you need to get much much closer. From the pics it looks like you freedive? you may want to physically hold the rig before deciding, the dimensions are 19x16x15 cm. It is quite boxy. The Pany LX-10 kit is much more compact. The other thing to consider is a vacuum system, I believe Ikelite offer an optional kit. If you are popping up and down freediving, spending a lot of the time at the surface you are actually more prone to leaks - o-rings need to be loaded to seal properly and loading is minimal at the surface. The vacuum system pre loads the o-rings allows you to test for leaks before diving and also means it is physically difficult to impossible to dislodge the ports or housing back. You have not mentioned strobes or lights so I assume this is not of interest? The ikelite requires electrical sync for strobes which is another set of o-rings to maintain - I much prefer fibre optic triggering.
  10. You might something secondhand here, but being in Australia (I guess based on $AU) will limit your options quite possibly. Going new you could get a G7X II for about $3K in a Nauticam housing and add on a wet lens for wide angle for maybe $700. Or you could go with a Fantasea housing which is $799 rather than the $1800 Nauticam, Isotta have an aluminium housing for $1500. I'm concentrating on the 1" sensor cameras as m43 and bigger sensors are an all together bigger investment and the cheaper options tend to have limitations in supported lens ports. On the wide lenses, this is a bit of a minefield and trying to find details on all the lenses is difficult, many are designed for 28mm lenses and only give a 100° field of view and don't zoom through. There are newer options better suited to cameras that are 24mm at the wide end. Zoom through will definitely help with big animals that don't want to get close. Here is a link to some recommended wet lenses: https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/guide-to-best-wet-wide-lenses Looking in the classifieds this looks like it might be a good deal: https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/guide-to-best-wet-wide-lenses If the owner will ship to Australia, probably be close to $4k by the time it gets through customs: The LX-10 is the top pick for 1" compacts from Backscatter's article: https://www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/Backscatter-Best-Underwater-Compact-Cameras
  11. Depends on how close you can get to them and if you want wide and macro on the same dive, a starting point is a 1" sensor compact which can take wet lenses for both wide and macro shooting, as you move up to bigger sensors you become more restricted to either wide or macro on any one dive - there are solutions that can give you both with large sensors but they tend to be very expensive. If you have some idea on budget that would help.
  12. The problem with the S&S lens is it is too big for most m43 lenses. 77mm filter threads if I recall correctly. Basically all it is doing is flattening the field, the lens is imaging a curved surface in the virtual image which means the image plane it produces is also curved. The lens changes the focus to that the focal surface produced is flatter. It's probably not too dissimilar to field flatteners used in astronomical imaging. Many optical designs produce a curved focal surface and a meniscus corrector used close to the focal plane is a common solution - not practical for using in a small format camera, but the same principle seems to be applied with a correcting lens in front of the lens. In theory you could also do it with an optic attached to the lens mount like a teleconverter, but a front mounted optic is much more universal. Interesting that the new WACP is rectilinear, pity it's so heavy and $$$.
  13. some rules in English: http://pupcabopulmo.mx/?en 8 ft minimum distance to coral and no flash with sharks Here's the bit about permits via Google translate: Photography Cabo Pulmo National Park offers wonderful views of both water and land. In case of wanting to take underwater photography WITHOUT PURPOSE, it is important that the Park Directorate be requested a letter of No objection through a letter addressed to the Director where the date on which the activity will be carried out is mentioned, the person in charge of the activity, the technical characteristics of the equipment (camera, flash, accessories), the objective of the activity and the name of the company with which you have contracted your tour. Said letter and copy of the identification of the person responsible should be sent via email to: lourdes.getino@conanp.gob.mx To schedule your visit and the activities you wish to perform, contact the suppliers tormented at:
  14. Interesting, no idea why they would recommend a +2 diopter, it's mainly used with older wide zooms that don't focus close enough to focus on the virtual image with the dome. A diopter is a different lens to the S&S lens, the diopter allows the lens to focus closer while the S&S lens is a field flattener- it brings the edges if the field into focus without impacting the centre. Interesting too about the extension, Nauticam's port charts(linked from their website) still recommend a 90mm extension for the 230mm dome (this is the Nikon 16-35, right?) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ADK0utEboUHDMCZYC4IIqVYacyVvDJ17/view
  • Create New...