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ChrisRoss last won the day on November 6

ChrisRoss had the most liked content!

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About ChrisRoss

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    Tiger Shark

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    Sydney Australia

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII
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  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z-240

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  1. it would be nice to have the same colour balance between the examples as that distracts from the other differences for me, clicking between them on Flikr is interesting the first one the LH side of the top school seems to be more forward in the frame and more prominent when you switch between them rapidly, but the effect ssems hard to see when either image is viewed alone. For me the differences are subtle and I guess the one with sharper corners is preferable if only because the fish are not being chopped off in that version in the corners and I'd like to see it with the Lightroom colour/tones.
  2. You should be able to obtain a carnet - you provide a guarantee that you will take the goods out of mexico: https://www.atacarnet.com/mexico They may have changed laws recently or be interpreting them differently but it would be worth talking to a specialist as mentioned in the link. Even if you are paying by card they may be siphoning this off. If a carnet does not solve your problem then the only real solution would be to cancel citing this behaviour by customs officers. Depending on the value of your housing it might exceed the cost to obtain the carnet. Many countries have laws around what you can import but I expect enforcement is not always carried out.
  3. you will be struggling for light by all accounts I've seen, both for AF and for the image itself. If your BG is going to be water you will probably be able to open up the aperture a little, I'm guessing the 9-18 would focus a little better and you might try shooting that at f5.6 or maybe a little wider if things are close. Normally you would stop down for corner quality but the corners are likely to be water so not so critical for sharpness there and of course ISO needed for reasonable shutter speeds.
  4. The Sigma should fit, the port charts tell the tale, the 105mm takes the compact port 50 with compact port base 18211 and extensions. The Can 180 mm also uses compact port base and compact port 50 and 70mm of extensions. It is 82.5 dia x 186. The sigma latest model is 79.6 x 137mm if you look at the differences you need 186-137 = 49mm less extension. so take the 70mm extension used by the Canon 180mm and subtract 49mm = 21mm . This means you need a 20 or 30 mm extension with the sigma. Depending on which port option you have for your 105mm you probably have the ports required to try it.
  5. I would agree with that, though if you want to add wet lenses a closer fit is more important. A non extending lens is preferred and I'm pretty sure the Sigma lens does not extend. It just has not been measured up for a port combination. If there is a nearby UW retail store visiting to try out some port combinations would solve that issue.
  6. Nauticam's port charts list support for the Canon 180mm macro lens using a port base, and 30 + 40mm compact extensions with compact port 50. the specs say the 200mm f4 micro-nikkor is 7mm longer than the 180mm macro, so more than likely would fit if you substituted the compact port 60 for the 50, or used 2x 40mm extensions. The Canon 180mm macro is not a particularly snappy focuser though, not sure how it compares with the Nikon 200mm f4. The Sigma 150mm f2.8 is reputed to be a snappier focuser, and it is stabilised - specs say it is 150mm long and has narrower diameter compared to the 186mm long Canon 180mm macro, so needs 34 mm less extension so swapping the 50mm port for a 15mm port should work, but you'd need to check as the accuracy of the specs may not be perfect.
  7. I don't think anything has changed, most people don't want to pay for imagery, love your images but sorry we have no budget -how about a credit for exposure?? . The primary skill needed is being shamelessly good at self promotion!
  8. regarding choice of Oly vs Pany lens, maybe go a retailer and try both, using AF inside the store to see which AF's best on a lowish contrast target in store lighting close to 1:1 to see if there is any difference in AF performance. I woud guess there is little to pick between them in sharpness. My Pany 30mm autofocuses quite quickly on my EM-1 MkII in fact better than the 60mm.
  9. Capture One express is great and will allow you to produce a tiff file you can work on further in lightroom. The full Pro version is a quite a reasonable replacement for Lightroom. Their website has a comparison table so you can see what extras you get in the paid version (which is available for a one off charge)
  10. The retra has no electrical connection, only optical, you can connect to an electrical sync cable with a converter. So one of two things would be needed to give you HSS - the camera has an onboard flash that it TTL capable or an electrical to optical HSS capable converter would be required to connect up electrically. Which means it must have the capability to mimic the HSS pulsing via its slave sensor. If your camera does not have an onboard flash someone would need to develop a TTL capable trigger or electrical-optical adapter for your particular model. There may be other ways to do it I haven't thought of but that seems to be the basic requirement given the triggering capability of the Retra.
  11. Don't release the vacuum, one thing it does is pre load the O-rings. Housings are more likely to leak the surface when the O-rings are not loaded. O-rings seal by the water pressure pressing them against the sealing surface without that pressure they are more prone to leakage. Taking it in empty means you need to open it again which means you have to test it again, you may get some hair or something on the o-ring if you open the housing. The whole idea of the vacuum test is to prove it won't leak, testing for an extended period is good to prove there is no slow leak.
  12. If you are using the viewfinder to compose there are a few options to get a magnifier for the LCD screen and these often have dioptric adjustment, lets you use the screen like a viewfinder with your distance vision. Your options will depend on what housing you use - Nauticam compact housings for example have mounting points for their LCD magnifier and AOI make one for the TG camera housings.
  13. I found some issues with purple fringing with the Pany 8mm, on my EM-1 MkII. Apparently the cut off filter for UV is different between Pany and Oly with the Olympus letting through wavelengths that the Pany lens does not fully correct for. Doesn't appear on all shots, most noticable with bright objects against dark backgrounds. The Capture One Pro purple fringing tool can remove much of it. If I was doing it again I'd get the Oly lens. I had a post on that here: I was also thinking the corners were quite soft but have since decided that is due to the corner in question being much closer and falling outside the DOF. The shot in question was along a wall and the wall itself was much closer than what I was photographing. I use the Pany 30mm macro, AF is quite snappy, noticably better than the 60mm macro, haven't used the OLy 30mm to compare. You can't take advantage of the extra magnification (1.25x) on the Oly as it focuses almost on the port glass. In fact I think the practical limit for lighting with the 30mm lenses is about 0.5x as you are getting so close to the port glass it is diffciult to light. Where they shine is for larger subjects - small fish size up to about a 300mm long subject. The working distance for such subjects is too great for the 60mm macro - too much water between you and the subject and much higher chance of backscatter, particulatlry in temperate waters where I shoot often. Some examples: Fish 20cm long: http://www.aus-natural.com/Underwater/Bony Fish/slides/Senator Wrasse 3.html Fish 12cm long: http://www.aus-natural.com/Underwater/Bony Fish/slides/Blotched Hawkfish.html Nudi 5cm long, 50% crop: http://www.aus-natural.com/Underwater/Nudibranches/slides/Hypselodoris bennetti.9.html Nudis 4cm long: http://www.aus-natural.com/Underwater/Nudibranches/slides/Goniobranchus tasmaniensis2.html
  14. The Fantasea dome is 6", looks like it's a piece of a larger radius dome, but still a little on the small side. with APS-C you will probably need f11 for sharp corners with a 15mm equivalent rectilinear wide lens. Dome size and the required aperture scales with sensor size. For the same scene the depth of field is greater with a smaller sensor, so I can use f8 with my 7-14 (14-28 equivalent) lens, equivalent depth of field on an APS-C requires f11 and full frame needs f16. Big domes makes things easier as the radius of curvature of the virtual image is larger meaning that the image is further away and difference in distance between the corners and centre of the virtual image is less requiring less depth of field to cover. You might get better results at f8 than your UWL at f13 but to get the best out of the lens in the corners stopping down to f11 or so will certainly be a benefit.
  15. I'll have to look into it, the lens does not get a great deal of use - so shots where I could pick that up are few.
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