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ChrisRoss

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ChrisRoss last won the day on July 28

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About ChrisRoss

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    http://www.aus-natural.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney Australia

Additional Info

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    Australia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z-240

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  1. I use 0.19m to infinity. You can't leave it on 1:1 it's spring loaded and just takes you to 1:1 (min focus) and springs back to the 0.19m - 0.4m range. Some people claim the AF improves when on 0.19 -0.4 setting but I don't see any difference. If you leave it on 0.19-0.4 you can't takes shots on anything bigger than about 120mm on long axis of frame. I leave it on 0.19 to infinity which allows you to focus over full range. The focus gear is pretty useless - if you try using the lens in MF out of the housing it takes a lot of movement on the focus ring to see any noticable change in focus. The focus gear is geared down even further so it needs proportionally more turns to see any change, so you just end up endlessly spinning the housing focus knob and not getting anywhere. So I would just use AF.
  2. Vacuum doesn't pull, the atmosphere pushes the o-rings in the direction of the pressure gradient, so no difference at all to being in the water from that aspect. There is a lot of myth and legend and just plain made up bunk published on vacuum systems on the net unfortunately. In any case the leak sentinel is turned off - the vacuum is not released. I always leave my housing pulled down overnight, and don't stress about turning it off. A long test is better as it has the potential to catch a slow leak, though beyond a couple of hours there is probably no benefit. You could test it, open it, turn it off then pull a new vacuum in the morning, but you loose some of the benefit of a long test. Anytime you open a housing you risk o-ring contamination risk might be low but it's real. Better to pull the vacuum and leave it there. I see no benefit for a leak sentinel over the Nauticam vacuum valve if you have a Nauticam housing - the Nauticam comes with the electronics, you just need to add a one way valve to make it work.
  3. Sounds like it is too big for most systems as a perusal of the port charts : https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/port-charts shows no one listing it as an option I can find. Generally very fast glass is no advantage underwater as you are stopping down to f11 or more to deal with dome port optics and just cause it's nice on land does not always mean it works well in a dome port. You would probably be better served with a Sony 12-24 or 16-35 f4. To make the 12-24mm worthwhile and do justice to the optics you need a big expensive 230mm dome port. Have a look at the Nauticam port charts to see what lenses are catered for on Sony: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bsLxDvlD0Op2qGK9hg12Vne5XhsH3HES/view You can use smaller domes with the 16-35mm at the cost of corner sharpness, full frame cameras demand big dome ports to allow you to use the full resolution across the entire frame.
  4. There is an independent repairer in Adelaide who does both Panasonic and Olympus repairs who might be able to assist if you can't isolate the problem. If you put it on another camera and it also gives the same message, you are probably fairly safe in saying it's the lens.
  5. Yeah the issue I described had the pin click into place, seemingly like it should, but the fault seemed to be that on the one lens that gave problems it didn't go in quite as far - like a fraction of a mm less - the switch should have responded but because it was faulty it didn't. Because it's an olympus lens on a Panasonic body you probably need to work out who to send what to - if they were both olympus you could take/send them both to the same place to work it out. I'm assuming the panasonic would have similar functionality with the pin. I'm not sure where in Oz you live, but I found it useful to take the body, the lens and another lens that worked in to compare. They also tried the lens on a body they had and confirmed where the issue lay and they just kept the body to repair.
  6. You really need to look at the whole picture lens and port availability and costs, housing availability and price. The cheapest camera is not always the best solution. Being located in Australia costs can be higher and availability of the ports you may want can be an issue. For example the Fantasea and port for 10-18 can be purchased from underwater australia. but they don't list anything to allow you to use a fisheye. You could end up having to order in the fisheye port from overseas. Sony don't make a native fisheye so you would be using a Canon mount lens either the Tokina 10-17 or Canon 8-15 on a metabones adapter if you wanted to go fisheye. Second hand is a great option for housings as they tend to go for 50% of the new price or less, though it can be a long wait in Australia to buy or sell.
  7. I had an issue with Olympus camera the locating pin also functions as a kind of switch and for one particular lens it would not register the lens so the display just went black your Panasonic camera may respond differently? It worked fine when attaching different lenses - it seems the depth of the locating hole varies slightly among different lenses. It was called the frame contact mount unit. Do you have another camera you can try the 9-18 on? I think you need to check if it is the camera or the lens. Did you try jiggling the lens a bit. Assume you have tried other lenses on the body? I had the camera repaired at Olympus North Ryde, costs were quite reasonable at $115. Not sure where or how you would get repairs on a Panasonic camera, but if it is the lens Olympus repairs were good to deal with. I'm in Sydney so I dropped the camera in for repairs at North Ryde.
  8. Wide angle or macro or both? TTL is known to work better on macro subjects where you don't have a lot of BG water. Whether or not TTL works is generally quite camera dependent the camera evaluates the scene and works out how much flash is required. If there is a lot of water in the scene the camera may try to add more flash to make it brighter, which of course it can't and it overexposes the subject. You setup sounds correct for Canon, in manual mode set shutter speed and aperture and flash is taken care of by the camera. What settings are you using? for example if you are very close to the subject using wide apertures and high ISO you could conceivably be beyond the turn down limit of the TTL circuits. Other than that have you tried turning down to maximum -ve flash compensation in the camera itself as well as on the TTL control on the housing.
  9. Assuming you don't want to add strobes from your description and you want things nice and compact. I'm guessing you pick the 200D on price point and a reasonable sized sensor? The 200D is reasonable in low light but it is in fact very closely matched by the EM-1 MkII Olympus and the new Sony A6400 has a slight edge on it. I'm assuming by your subjects that you would be looking at a fisheye lens . The advantage of the EM-1 MkII is you can use the little Panasonic fisheye and a 4" dome, nice and compact and in lower light f5.6 should be fine. Downside is housing options are more expensive. The olympus housings are OK, but finding someone stocking the ports in Australia could be an issue. Bigger sensors you generally need to stop down more so the advantage is lost in ambient light. With the 200D you would be looking at the Tokina 10-17 which is around $900 or the Canon 8-15mm which is $1900. the 10-17 is OK but not the sharpest knife in the drawer. Also be aware that the 200D ikelite housing uses DLM ports so the range of ports available is limited. and the ikelite housings while functional are rather boxy. You could also look at an A6400 in a Fantasea housing for a little less than the ikelite $1100 for the housing but you may find a port for the fisheye lens more expensive, the port for the Sony 10-18 is $750. It does have a vacuum warning system included. All prices are Aussie prices. That could be a good option if the 10-18 lens meets your needs. This is the Fantasea line port chart. http://www.fantasea.com/downloads/FMLLensPortChart.pdf Whatever you do look at the whole system for price and options like port availability.
  10. If it takes standard S&S connectors just use a double hole bushing: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwj7kIOI7PnjAhXvH7cAHUvAAmkQFjAAegQIABAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.backscatter.com%2FInon-Double-Hole-Rubber-bushing-for-fiber-optic-ca&usg=AOvVaw2Cil2iynFGuZBkfJi4USIJ There is also a right angle version available.
  11. It probably would not work to remove water in any case, O-rings should seal in both directions if they are contained properly. normally the o-ring sits in a groove and that type should seal in both directions. But other components like the viewfinder or rear window may not be designed this way and could fail. So risk of damage and also ineffective.
  12. It is not rocket science, the issue is you get salt water inside easily - the housing is dry and the water is pushed in by pressure to fill the area around the button or shaft up to the o-ring. The pressure pushes the air out easily. When the housing comes out of the water there is no driving force to speak of to make the water leave and surface tension tends to hold it in place. So you soak it in water and work the buttons to force salty water out to be replaced by fresh. You get maybe 50% exchange of salt water for fresh each time. so each press might reduce salt concentration by 50%. While it is soaking the driving force is diffusion to speed up diffusion warm water and low chloride concentration will help. The driving force is the concentration difference of the sodium and chloride ions between inside the button hole and the bulk water. De-ionised water may help a bit but most tap water is so low in chloride ions it would hardly make any noticeable difference. Other things that might help might include blowing out each button with a blower bulb so that it fills with fresh water when you immerse the housing and also blwoing them after taking out of the tank. I soak mine for about an hour. I also soak my Z-240 strobes for the same time, you can't work the battery cap and there is water between the cap opening and the o-ring. I have soaked them for an hour and left them on the bench at home for a day or two to dry and when disassembled the water has evaporated and there are salt crystals there - it won't harm that o-ring as you are not forcing the cap on and pushing the o-ring into the salt, but it goes to show that all the buttons on your housing need assistance with flushing if you don't want salt crystals forming there. The geometry of the buttons is perfect for crevice type corrosion and eventually you might get pitting on any stainless steel shafts reducing their ability to seal. and the crystals will eventually damage your o-ring. A long soak when you get home if you are not going to use the housing for a few days can't hurt and it probably can extend the life of your housing.
  13. It really depends on what the water is like, you certainly have to back off with the 60mm. Having said that I used the 60mm exclusively in Lembeh. Whether or not you can use C-AF will depend on the camera and its AF capability. I had an EM-5 MkII and C-AF was not that good, on upgrading to an EM1- MkII I found C-AF plus tracking was excellent. Personally I found the MF focus gear on a 60mm a bit useless, you need two or three turns of the focus knob to see any change in the focus. I have the 12-40 and think it's great for big things like frogfish but the very best you can do is fill the frame with a 60mm long subject and you have to be almost on the dome to do that. I use it around Sydney on dives where I'm likely to find large fish, small port jackson sharks, smallish schools of fish, big rays etc. An alternative is the 30mm macro lenses, you need a shorter port as they focus extremely close to the lens at maximum magnification and even then UW half life size is about the limit, any closer and lighting gets difficult 1:1 is theoretically possible but that is about 10mm or so from the port glass. Having said all that, it is my preferred lens for muck diving around Sydney being good for 25mm nudis through to weedy sea dragons (300-400mm long ).
  14. it's always better to have identical strobes so you are not trying to get both sides to match. If they are the same strobe, set them on the same setting and move them up and down identically as you change power. I'm sure you would get them to match at the cost of some fiddling. If you are set on using TTL - matching needs to be via exposure compensation on one of the strobes as they will both fire for the same duration and if one has too much power it might fall outside the range of the available compensation.
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