Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


ChrisRoss last won the day on March 28

ChrisRoss had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

150 Excellent

About ChrisRoss

  • Rank
    Great White

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sydney Australia

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z-240

Recent Profile Visitors

32091 profile views
  1. Manuals these days for almost anything you buy are pretty poor, companies relies on someone setting up a forum and crowd sourcing support. Some of the worst are European products where all they give you is a page of pictograms - like an actual manual with words is not cool anymore.
  2. I don't know much about S&S ports system, however reference to the Nauticam port charts shows they have an option to use any Canon lens with a Metabones adapter by using a 35.5mm N100-N120 adapter. This shows that adding a 35.5mm extension to the Sony Sea & Sea ports will allow you to use Canon lenses - with ports selected from the Canon port charts. What this means is that your housing with the 35.5mm extension and the metabones adapter installed is effectively the same as a Canon DSLR/Housing to which you attach a Canon lens and the selected port from the Canon S&S port charts. That's the port taken care of. In the Nauticam system the adapter/extension is equipped with a zoom knob so you can use the Canon Zoom/focus gears. For S&S I suspect you would need a custom printed gear that was longer by the length of the extension you are using. It does not appear that S&S have a 35.5mm extension so you would probably need to compromise and use a 40mm extension. So your focus or zoom gear would need to be 40mm longer than standard and custom printed or you might be able to print an adapter to allow you use the canon focus/zoom rings. The Canon fisheye is used by a few people on Sony and is judged to be excellent image quality - I recall a few posts on here recently talking about this. Equally the 28mm plus fisheye adapter is jusdged to mediocre image quality.
  3. Make no mistake, the 12-40 is a great little lens - focuses just about down on the dome and very sharp. The 6" port is also probably a little small for the 12mm end so the corners won't be as good as the recommended 170/180mm domes for the 12-40. But if you are on a budget the 12-35 certainly is an option.
  4. UW Camera Store in The Netherlands charges 449 Euro for "system camera" overhaul and 499 for an SLR. I'm not sure which the EM-1 mkII would fall under, but 499 euro is $US564 and I would think labour rates are higher in Europe than the US. Overhaul includes a pressure test and prices are published on their website. So $600 seems a little steep. The price for an Ikelite SLR housing overhaul is 299 euro or 338 USD. So a Nauticam housing is more expensive to overhaul. The prices are all published on their website.
  5. It's about 30 o-rings, springs and c-clips to do all your buttons and other controls. I would think the labor should be higher than the parts as there is so much disassembly work to get to many controls. They may replace a bunch of other parts inside like some of the levers and return springs as a matter of course due to damage during disassembly perhaps. Won't hurt to ask.
  6. The problem with the 14-42 is it becomes about a 17.5mm at the wide end in a flat port, which means you would have to back off quite a bit to shoot big animals, 35mm full frame equivalent focal length is not that wide. If you have the 6" dome try it in there and see if vignettes - that would be what I'd choose if it worked. It's not going to have the optimal spacing but it is most likely sharper than the 14mm through a flat port. The 4" wide angle port is recommended for it and that has a long extension as well. BTW the Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8 uses the 6" wide angle port, doesn't focus quite as close as the olympus 12-40 but it's another option. Here's the Nauticam port chart for reference: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PzZ346RG3N7XTt6s8EUC9pBL2FfxQzIE/view
  7. No problem, on the fisheye lens don't forget that the focus in air is totally different to the focus in water as the lens focuses on a virtual image in a dome port, which is located about 3 dome radii from the edge of the dome. I have found you really need to focus with fisheye lenses if you use them underwater - generally you are focusing on things that are really close and it is best to focus on the closest thing in the frame as the depth of field extends further behind the focal point. I'm sure you could get it to work after a fashion but the temptation would be focus further out and not get the real benefit of the fisheye which is getting really close to your subject.
  8. No problem soaking any part in freshwater, the more the better, including fibre optics. Removing is a good idea so fresh water gets onto the sensor and the cable end. I generally leave the ball attached - the o-ring is just for grip I believe. I always pop the buttons for the light and auto cancel up and work them a few times as well as rotating the dials while underwater. I soak for about an hour - they go straight in the sink when I get home and soak while I'm dealing with my dive gear.
  9. The valve is simply a one way valve and your description indicates that you get a slight leakage before it then holds again. Looking at the manual it indicates it should flash orange first then go to flashing red. It sounds like it it is very rapidly losing pressure - I don't know what the Aquatica valve is like but I know my Nauticam valve takes a few seconds to fully release the vacuum and goes through the yellow flashing stage first, even if I open the valve very quickly. It's a small hole and it takes time for the air to flow in so to go instantly from green to red seems like it should be difficult - so it could also be an issue with the vacuum monitoring - possibly low battery? I would try a new battery first to see if that changes anything. Then I would double check the vacuum release valve on the pump to make sure it is not passing - leave it on for 30 seconds or so to make sure it holds while the pump is attached - it could be leaking and getting you close to the alarm point. You could also try taking an extra couple of pumps beyond when you get the green light to see if that gives you enough buffer for the valve to seal off before it alarms. To me it seems like a sticky non-return valve that is slow to close - I don't know if that mechanism is servicable so may need to be replaced. Have you contacted Aquatica for advice?
  10. Maybe my wording was wrong - by every time I mean every time I open the cap, not every dive. I agree, I can get a full day out of a good set of batteries. On the other comments, each to their own - I don't see any issues with removing o-rings to check them. I have Z-240s and the cap definitely traps water. It would be so easy to design it so that it didn't trap water and grit. I have an INON dive torch and those o-rings rarely come off - the cap screws down onto an external o-ring and I never see water or grit get in past the external o-ring and into contact with the yellow sealing o-rings. The sync cable port cover also never comes off. Once an o-ring seals as long as it remains intact it won't unseal. I would change those o-rings out when I changed the o-ring of the main cap.
  11. I can see why he might want to do it and the results my well be good, but I see several problems. First getting repeated shots with same lighting angle, changing settings on your strobe or camera, adding or removing air from your BCD popping an SMB etc., if both hands are occupied. You can clip camera or strobe off of course, but so much easier if it's a single package. I certainly woudn't like to leave the strobe hanging from the cable.
  12. I clean and lube mine every time - the issue with INON o-rings is you are screwing on the cap over the o-ring and unless its well lubed it tends to bind and they get a little salt water in the groove which slowly dries out to make salt crystals which can damage your o-ring. If I change out batteries on the following day the cap is tight and I have to go very slow to remove. It probably depends on what type of diving you are doing - if it's shore diving the risk is sand in the o-ring and I would definitely clean them every time. The biggest concern for me is the salt water in the groove it seems like it gets on both sides of the o-ring once you remove the cap. I use the following procedure: remove o-ring and put aside in clean spot wipe groove with tissue to soak up water and inspect and clean as needed. clean o-ring - shake first to remove water then run through fingers and inspect&clean then grease and install it wipe out cap with finger and inspect. take a very small smear of grease and wipe inside cap - it helps the cap go on over the o-ring. Inspect o-ring through cap You can do it pretty quickly once you get the hang of it - better to spend 5 minutes getting it right than buying a new strobe.
  13. They are metric - M8 and 45mm long on my housing.
  14. It probably won't be a problem to use the energisers for a while - the eneloops are supposedly what helped INON solve a reliability problem due to heat buildup. If you rapid fire full power dumps constantly it could give you a problem , but casual use for a short period probably not?? I think you are using a TG-6 if I remember your other posts shooting that for macro using f6.3 (not the f18 option) should mean you are at quite low power which is easy on the flash. What you will need to do is charge them each outing if they have been sitting more than a few days as they self discharge.
  15. Eneloop is generally regarded as best but INON have a list of other acceptable batteries. It's in the manual, : Sony cycle energy blue Panasonic HHR-3MPS Imedion (MAHA) MHRAAI4 (they also make an excellent 8 cell charger) GP batteries ReCyko+ - 210AAHCBE ANSMANN AG maxE - 5030991, 5030992 5035052 Electrochem NEXCell energyON - AA 2000 mAhr are listed in addition to the eneloops and eneloop Pro. Your strobe probably won't die with energiser, but they will get hotter and are also prone to rapid self discharge. Probably a longer term thing - but I would get eneloop anyway and use them once they arrive and relegate the others to a dive torch or something once you get the eneloops. Depending on how many dives you do in the time the eneloops take to arrive you could use a set of regular AA energiser (disposable), you'll probably get two dives from a set or more if you can get the AA Lithium cells - both are listed in the manual as a battery you can use.
  • Create New...