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ChrisRoss last won the day on March 28

ChrisRoss had the most liked content!

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About ChrisRoss

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    Great White

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    Sydney Australia

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z-240

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  1. Nice talk Alex and Adam, you may be interested to know that White's seahorse is now listed as endangered on IUCN redlist and some captive bred specimens were released at the site you mentioned recently. I actually dived that site last week and photographed the seahorses on the Seahorse "hotels" that were installed there - basically wire cages to give them substrate to attach to. Sydney is a good spot for quite a few seahorses and close relatives, we have White's and pot bellied seahorse and have had Hippocampus kelloggi reported. We have pipefish including vagrant ghost pipefish, pygmy pipehorses , of course weedy sea dragons at dive sites around Sydney. White's seahorse are found on many swimming enclosure nets in various estuaries around Sydney. There have been quite few pot bellied seahorses reported just recently on a dive site at the entrance to Botany Bay.
  2. Here's an old post on the topic with some good responses:
  3. If you can't predict it that makes it difficult but I expect you will still be able to do some of the tests I suggested. Also next time it happens make a note of what it does when you release the vacuum if it goes to flashing red you alarm is working if not it doesn't work. Mostly I expect you'll be fine but I would take extra care to let the housing sit for 20-30 minutes after pulling a vacuum and before diving as it may not alert you if there is a very slow leak which coincides with going to blue. Also I suggest making the checks I suggested with the housing in flashing red state after release of vacuum.
  4. I don't shoot either of the strobes you mention and have INON Z-240s, which I've been very happy with - the INONs seem to have a solid reputation. Comparing strobes can be a little like comparing apples and oranges, the guide number which you think might allow you to compare actually isn't all that helpful the INON Z-330 is GN 33 and that is with a 110 deg beam. The YS-D2 is GN 32 but that is in a 80 deg beam and it drops to GN 24 with a 100 deg beam with the 100deg diffuser attached. Retra doesn't quote guide numbers and instead quotes a strobe energy output with the prime rated at 100Ws and the Pro at 150Ws with a 130 deg beam. As you can see sorting out the specs is a bit of a mess. You need to know strobe output and the size of the beam it is spreading that light into. This means you are going on recommendations and experience reports. It appears from posts on here that the Retra prime has similar power output to the INON and S&S strobes and the Retra Pro has more. They all run 4 x AA batteries so if you use that power it is only to be expected that you get less flashes on the Retra Pro. You can get a 8 AA battery pack as an option on the Retras though. What is different between the strobes is the quality of light - the Retra Pro is reported to have a very even beam and there have been tests on here that show that the Z-330 is much brighter in the centre of the beam. You can still get great shots with the Z-330/Z-240 but the light is more even on the Retra. The even light can be used to advantage for wide angle work, macro less so and in fact you probably need the use beam restricters on the Retras for macro to help control the light and control backscatter.
  5. I would think warm water would help you bend it, the recommended method to set fibre in a coil is to coil it on a form and dip it in very hot water and let it cool. You could bend around a form of the right radius first and let it cool then fit it to adapter. The photo of the adapter is not showing up BTW.
  6. What is happening is it is resetting somehow - likely to be when the board loses power - it is doing exactly what it would do if you turned it off and on again. It can do this either by the reset button shorting or by losing power momentarily. When I say wiggle I mean just move the wires it obviously is happening with only gentle movement - assuming you are not jumping in with it. You want to move the wires going to the switch and the wires going to the reset button and the battery wires. There is only any point doing this if it is flashing red - if it changes to blue it means it has reset. If it is flashing blue to start with you can't see it change state. Also check the rod that is moved by the blue reset button retracts fully - touch the blue reset button softly while it is flashing red to see if the housing goes to blue. To do this release the vacuum and remove front port and touch the blue button gently yu are testing is it resets too easily. I think it is safe to say that it will NOT alarm in the event of vacuum loss. These types of circuits are usually in various modes. depending on input. Flashing blue is waiting for the pressure to drop. Once pressure drops it goes into monitoring mode, going yellow then green. I expect it will only go into vacuum alarm if it if in green monitoring mode. You can test this out - if it has gone to green and then goes to flashing blue - does it go to red when you release the vacuum. If it doesn't you won't get an alarm. The water alarm appears to independent it will go off if activated when flashing blue - I tested mine and it goes off when in blue flashing I think there is little harm or risk in moving the wires if you find a loose one you might be able to fix it. If you don't you might have to put it in for repair.
  7. Does it stay blue or flash blue like it does when first turned on? To me that would be an indication that it has momentarily lost power going back to the initial state. I would look closely at the connections to power and wiggle them to see if I could reproduce the fault that way - of course with the housing open you can't stay green but if it were red like after depressuring and went to blue that is likely to be thesame cause. Also check the battery is inserted properly and change it out to see if that changes behavior.
  8. I always carry a small tool kit with me when travelling Allan key set, small screwdrivers - I have a set of JIS drivers for camera screws, I use an airline amenity kit pouch to carry them. This is quite small and goes in my checked bag. I also carry at least one of each port/housing/strobe o-ring spare and a small spares kit with spare reg mouthpiece, zip-ties, regulator hose o-rings etc., they fit in another amenity pouch with o-ring grease, o-ring pick. I also carry a blower bulb, microfibre cloth and +4 readers for close inpection of o-rings etc.
  9. Interesting video - one thing I would comment on is the comment about getting water droplets in housings and the water vaporizing if the housing is heated up - this is the cause of the mis-conception that getting a housing hot in the sun causes fogging. The cause is not the heating , the cause is water droplets which vapourise and then condense on the coldest surface when you hop in the water. If the housing is dry heating it up won't make any difference. On that point I'd like to ask a question about how you deal with water droplets - when I open my housing there is invariably a few droplets clinging to the o-ring and the mating seal when I open the housing - generally at the bottom of the housing. It's a Nauticam EM-1 mk-II housing - clam shell style. I have microfibre cloths but they seem to just move the water around and capillary action pulls the water into the groove on both sides of the seal. I could soak it up with something but I end up pulling it, shaking it off and running it through my fingers and inspecting. I generally have to mop up some small drops in the o-ring groove.
  10. I think they chose the Pen to keep it small and compact the EM-10 would need a significantly larger housing I think - but if they produce a housing for other models that would be great - if we can still buy them.
  11. Looks like a well thought out solution - as long as the flash trigger performs as advertised it should be a good solution. With M67 threads you should also be able to attach a WWL to it later which would be a great solution.
  12. So close yet so far - note that the ID of ports varies among the various N85 ports available. here's a list of lens diameters and some ports I have to show the variation: Oly 12-40: 69.9mm Panasonic 8-18mm: 73.4 mm Tokina 10-17mm: 69.9mm Zen DP-100 N85 port: 76mm Zen DP-170 N85mm: 76mm Nauticam macro port: 70mm Your 8-18 fits in the 7" nauticam dome and the Olympus 12-40mm fits in the Zen DP-170 and will pass through from the back with the Nauticam zoom gear attached. Seeing as how the 12-40 fits a Zen port, it follows also that the Tokina will fit with zoom gear. Where you will run into trouble is with extension rings that you need for the metabones adapter. if you could find an extension ring with the same ID as the Zen ports you could probably do it. It would need to have the same metal port attachment lugs as the Zen - not the plastic piece Nauticam uses on the smaller ports and no internal bits. Otherwise it would be the N85-N120 37.5mm adapter and the Nauticam 4.33" N120 port - which would add up to quite a bit. It's too bad Nauticam didn't use the N100 system for m43.
  13. I lost mine very quickly and never replaced them, but I always use two strobes, I expect you could find a rubber grommet that fits at any auto parts store though you might need to remove the little plate to fit it properly.
  14. Lots of different viewpoints on how often to clean - I would make the point that different strobes have different requirements. Ikelite tends to use face seals a lot on the flat back of their housing and on their strobe battery packs - these o-rings do not need to slide and are normally not greased, so a quick inspection and brush off is entirely appropriate. Others are piston design with o-rings installed on a groove in the cap which is pushed into place - straight sliding against the battery chamber inner wall needs the lightest coat of grease. Most demanding is a screw on cap where the cap is screwed on over an o-ring in a groove so you have sliding friction to deal with and you don't want the o-ring to hang up. On my Z-240s without a light greasing of the cap they have always grabbed the cap and the O-ring turns with the cap unless I put a very light coat of grease on the sliding surface of the cap. The difference it turning resistance is very noticable. The o-ring seems to wipe this light coat off as the cap is screwed on. If you are concerned about stretching your O-rings you can always change them annually. I'm still using my original O-rings 4 years later and they are behaving the same and still sealing perfectly. I don't fell comfortable screwing the cap back on if there are big drops of water clinging to the o-ring which is often the case with my o-rings so I always pull them off and dry out the groove whenever I change batteries.
  15. Nice information there, - what is the brand of the +3 in water diopter - I heard "flip" as the name of it but searching I can't find it - is it still available? I've found that macro lens data seem to be a bit of a state secret, none of the UW sites provide much information to give you an idea of how much magnification you might get and the resulting working distance. It should not be that hard to produce the equivalent of a port chart giving max magnification on the popular macro lens focal lengths and associated working distance.
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