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ChrisRoss

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ChrisRoss last won the day on July 28

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About ChrisRoss

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    http://www.aus-natural.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney Australia

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    Australia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z-240

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  1. The UWL-100 comes in several flavours and INON data seems to indicate it is designed for 28mm equivalent lenses there is one footnote saying only compatible on 14-42 lens. Here is their page: http://www.inon.jp/products/lens/uwl100achromat/top.html The website indicates using a type 2 lens for olympus cameras. I believe also the lens is not designed to zoom through only to use at it about the widest setting close to 28mm equivalent on the lens: " Set the camera to wide end. If you observe vignetting at wide end, zoom to telephoto side minimum necessary or crop the image after taking image. The lens is designed to get optimum performance at above setting. " Before I went out and a purchased a flip mount I would suggest just getting a step down ring to m67 and screw it on to give it a try and see how it performs, you will probably need to zoom into about 14mm on the 12-50.
  2. I think the 8-15mm would give the same field of view as the 8mm Pany or Oly fisheye at 8mm which should be ~180° on the diagonal. For 15mm focal length I get a field of view of 88° on the diagonal which is equivalent to about 22mm on full frame or 11mm on your 8-18mm. This page gives the formulas : http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/technical/field_of_view.html The Pany 8mm with a 4.33" acrylic dome is certainly cheaper and easier to come by used, you can also use the Oly 12mm f2 lens in that dome if you want to dive with a little more focal length. You also need to source a adapter and zoom gear! Whether you are frustrated only having a fisheye will probably depend on your dive spots more than anything else
  3. I did Lembeh with a 60mm macro lens on Olympus (EM1 -MkII), worked great for nudis and other small critters. When they found a giant frogfish I had to back way off beyond reasonable strobe range and still didn't get it all in the frame. Lembeh is a bit like Sydney on a good day, vis around 10-20m with potential for particles in the water column so backing off for big stuff can be an issue, the 60mm macro sometimes wants to lock onto particles which are closer rather than focus out further on the subject. It has more or less the same framing as your 105mm macro so same comments would apply there more or less. This gallery is all with the 60mm macro: http://www.aus-natural.com/Underwater/Diver Lodge Lembeh -Sulawesi/index_gallery.html On the wide end the fisheye should get good use in Komodo and possibly Bunaken. The 16-35mm I'm not so sure about, it needs a big dome and subjects for it are potentially limited, unless you know you will be with sharks and other pelagics that you can't too close to. You have a big hole in the middle between fisheye and macro, so fish portraits may be problematic unless they are big fish. For that sort of thing I like my Olympus 12-40mm and it works well in a relatively small dome. I used that on one or two dives. If I was staying longer in Lembeh I might have taken it out looking for rhinopias and other larger subjects as well as groups of anemone fish an a dive or two. If you're not that into fish portraits, I wouldn't take it as the dome is still more stuff you need to carry
  4. I use 0.19m to infinity. You can't leave it on 1:1 it's spring loaded and just takes you to 1:1 (min focus) and springs back to the 0.19m - 0.4m range. Some people claim the AF improves when on 0.19 -0.4 setting but I don't see any difference. If you leave it on 0.19-0.4 you can't takes shots on anything bigger than about 120mm on long axis of frame. I leave it on 0.19 to infinity which allows you to focus over full range. The focus gear is pretty useless - if you try using the lens in MF out of the housing it takes a lot of movement on the focus ring to see any noticable change in focus. The focus gear is geared down even further so it needs proportionally more turns to see any change, so you just end up endlessly spinning the housing focus knob and not getting anywhere. So I would just use AF.
  5. Vacuum doesn't pull, the atmosphere pushes the o-rings in the direction of the pressure gradient, so no difference at all to being in the water from that aspect. There is a lot of myth and legend and just plain made up bunk published on vacuum systems on the net unfortunately. In any case the leak sentinel is turned off - the vacuum is not released. I always leave my housing pulled down overnight, and don't stress about turning it off. A long test is better as it has the potential to catch a slow leak, though beyond a couple of hours there is probably no benefit. You could test it, open it, turn it off then pull a new vacuum in the morning, but you loose some of the benefit of a long test. Anytime you open a housing you risk o-ring contamination risk might be low but it's real. Better to pull the vacuum and leave it there. I see no benefit for a leak sentinel over the Nauticam vacuum valve if you have a Nauticam housing - the Nauticam comes with the electronics, you just need to add a one way valve to make it work.
  6. Sounds like it is too big for most systems as a perusal of the port charts : https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/port-charts shows no one listing it as an option I can find. Generally very fast glass is no advantage underwater as you are stopping down to f11 or more to deal with dome port optics and just cause it's nice on land does not always mean it works well in a dome port. You would probably be better served with a Sony 12-24 or 16-35 f4. To make the 12-24mm worthwhile and do justice to the optics you need a big expensive 230mm dome port. Have a look at the Nauticam port charts to see what lenses are catered for on Sony: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bsLxDvlD0Op2qGK9hg12Vne5XhsH3HES/view You can use smaller domes with the 16-35mm at the cost of corner sharpness, full frame cameras demand big dome ports to allow you to use the full resolution across the entire frame.
  7. There is an independent repairer in Adelaide who does both Panasonic and Olympus repairs who might be able to assist if you can't isolate the problem. If you put it on another camera and it also gives the same message, you are probably fairly safe in saying it's the lens.
  8. Yeah the issue I described had the pin click into place, seemingly like it should, but the fault seemed to be that on the one lens that gave problems it didn't go in quite as far - like a fraction of a mm less - the switch should have responded but because it was faulty it didn't. Because it's an olympus lens on a Panasonic body you probably need to work out who to send what to - if they were both olympus you could take/send them both to the same place to work it out. I'm assuming the panasonic would have similar functionality with the pin. I'm not sure where in Oz you live, but I found it useful to take the body, the lens and another lens that worked in to compare. They also tried the lens on a body they had and confirmed where the issue lay and they just kept the body to repair.
  9. You really need to look at the whole picture lens and port availability and costs, housing availability and price. The cheapest camera is not always the best solution. Being located in Australia costs can be higher and availability of the ports you may want can be an issue. For example the Fantasea and port for 10-18 can be purchased from underwater australia. but they don't list anything to allow you to use a fisheye. You could end up having to order in the fisheye port from overseas. Sony don't make a native fisheye so you would be using a Canon mount lens either the Tokina 10-17 or Canon 8-15 on a metabones adapter if you wanted to go fisheye. Second hand is a great option for housings as they tend to go for 50% of the new price or less, though it can be a long wait in Australia to buy or sell.
  10. I had an issue with Olympus camera the locating pin also functions as a kind of switch and for one particular lens it would not register the lens so the display just went black your Panasonic camera may respond differently? It worked fine when attaching different lenses - it seems the depth of the locating hole varies slightly among different lenses. It was called the frame contact mount unit. Do you have another camera you can try the 9-18 on? I think you need to check if it is the camera or the lens. Did you try jiggling the lens a bit. Assume you have tried other lenses on the body? I had the camera repaired at Olympus North Ryde, costs were quite reasonable at $115. Not sure where or how you would get repairs on a Panasonic camera, but if it is the lens Olympus repairs were good to deal with. I'm in Sydney so I dropped the camera in for repairs at North Ryde.
  11. Wide angle or macro or both? TTL is known to work better on macro subjects where you don't have a lot of BG water. Whether or not TTL works is generally quite camera dependent the camera evaluates the scene and works out how much flash is required. If there is a lot of water in the scene the camera may try to add more flash to make it brighter, which of course it can't and it overexposes the subject. You setup sounds correct for Canon, in manual mode set shutter speed and aperture and flash is taken care of by the camera. What settings are you using? for example if you are very close to the subject using wide apertures and high ISO you could conceivably be beyond the turn down limit of the TTL circuits. Other than that have you tried turning down to maximum -ve flash compensation in the camera itself as well as on the TTL control on the housing.
  12. Assuming you don't want to add strobes from your description and you want things nice and compact. I'm guessing you pick the 200D on price point and a reasonable sized sensor? The 200D is reasonable in low light but it is in fact very closely matched by the EM-1 MkII Olympus and the new Sony A6400 has a slight edge on it. I'm assuming by your subjects that you would be looking at a fisheye lens . The advantage of the EM-1 MkII is you can use the little Panasonic fisheye and a 4" dome, nice and compact and in lower light f5.6 should be fine. Downside is housing options are more expensive. The olympus housings are OK, but finding someone stocking the ports in Australia could be an issue. Bigger sensors you generally need to stop down more so the advantage is lost in ambient light. With the 200D you would be looking at the Tokina 10-17 which is around $900 or the Canon 8-15mm which is $1900. the 10-17 is OK but not the sharpest knife in the drawer. Also be aware that the 200D ikelite housing uses DLM ports so the range of ports available is limited. and the ikelite housings while functional are rather boxy. You could also look at an A6400 in a Fantasea housing for a little less than the ikelite $1100 for the housing but you may find a port for the fisheye lens more expensive, the port for the Sony 10-18 is $750. It does have a vacuum warning system included. All prices are Aussie prices. That could be a good option if the 10-18 lens meets your needs. This is the Fantasea line port chart. http://www.fantasea.com/downloads/FMLLensPortChart.pdf Whatever you do look at the whole system for price and options like port availability.
  13. If it takes standard S&S connectors just use a double hole bushing: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwj7kIOI7PnjAhXvH7cAHUvAAmkQFjAAegQIABAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.backscatter.com%2FInon-Double-Hole-Rubber-bushing-for-fiber-optic-ca&usg=AOvVaw2Cil2iynFGuZBkfJi4USIJ There is also a right angle version available.
  14. It probably would not work to remove water in any case, O-rings should seal in both directions if they are contained properly. normally the o-ring sits in a groove and that type should seal in both directions. But other components like the viewfinder or rear window may not be designed this way and could fail. So risk of damage and also ineffective.
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