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ChrisRoss last won the day on March 28

ChrisRoss had the most liked content!

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About ChrisRoss

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    Great White

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    Sydney Australia

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z-240

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  1. I would think warm water would help you bend it, the recommended method to set fibre in a coil is to coil it on a form and dip it in very hot water and let it cool. You could bend around a form of the right radius first and let it cool then fit it to adapter. The photo of the adapter is not showing up BTW.
  2. What is happening is it is resetting somehow - likely to be when the board loses power - it is doing exactly what it would do if you turned it off and on again. It can do this either by the reset button shorting or by losing power momentarily. When I say wiggle I mean just move the wires it obviously is happening with only gentle movement - assuming you are not jumping in with it. You want to move the wires going to the switch and the wires going to the reset button and the battery wires. There is only any point doing this if it is flashing red - if it changes to blue it means it has reset. If it is flashing blue to start with you can't see it change state. Also check the rod that is moved by the blue reset button retracts fully - touch the blue reset button softly while it is flashing red to see if the housing goes to blue. To do this release the vacuum and remove front port and touch the blue button gently yu are testing is it resets too easily. I think it is safe to say that it will NOT alarm in the event of vacuum loss or water. These types of circuits are usually in various modes. depending on input. Flashing blue is waiting for the pressure to drop. Once pressure drops it goes into monitoring mode, going yellow then green. I expect it will only go into vacuum alarm if it if in green monitoring mode. You can test this out - if it has gone to green and then goes to flashing blue - does it go to red when you release the vacuum. If it doesn't you won't get an alarm. The water alarm appears to independent it will go off if activated when flashing blue - I tested mine and it goes off when in blue flashing I think there is little harm or risk in moving the wires if you find a loose one you might be able to fix it. If you don't you might have to put it in for repair.
  3. Does it stay blue or flash blue like it does when first turned on? To me that would be an indication that it has momentarily lost power going back to the initial state. I would look closely at the connections to power and wiggle them to see if I could reproduce the fault that way - of course with the housing open you can't stay green but if it were red like after depressuring and went to blue that is likely to be thesame cause. Also check the battery is inserted properly and change it out to see if that changes behavior.
  4. I always carry a small tool kit with me when travelling Allan key set, small screwdrivers - I have a set of JIS drivers for camera screws, I use an airline amenity kit pouch to carry them. This is quite small and goes in my checked bag. I also carry at least one of each port/housing/strobe o-ring spare and a small spares kit with spare reg mouthpiece, zip-ties, regulator hose o-rings etc., they fit in another amenity pouch with o-ring grease, o-ring pick. I also carry a blower bulb, microfibre cloth and +4 readers for close inpection of o-rings etc.
  5. Interesting video - one thing I would comment on is the comment about getting water droplets in housings and the water vaporizing if the housing is heated up - this is the cause of the mis-conception that getting a housing hot in the sun causes fogging. The cause is not the heating , the cause is water droplets which vapourise and then condense on the coldest surface when you hop in the water. If the housing is dry heating it up won't make any difference. On that point I'd like to ask a question about how you deal with water droplets - when I open my housing there is invariably a few droplets clinging to the o-ring and the mating seal when I open the housing - generally at the bottom of the housing. It's a Nauticam EM-1 mk-II housing - clam shell style. I have microfibre cloths but they seem to just move the water around and capillary action pulls the water into the groove on both sides of the seal. I could soak it up with something but I end up pulling it, shaking it off and running it through my fingers and inspecting. I generally have to mop up some small drops in the o-ring groove.
  6. I think they chose the Pen to keep it small and compact the EM-10 would need a significantly larger housing I think - but if they produce a housing for other models that would be great - if we can still buy them.
  7. Looks like a well thought out solution - as long as the flash trigger performs as advertised it should be a good solution. With M67 threads you should also be able to attach a WWL to it later which would be a great solution.
  8. So close yet so far - note that the ID of ports varies among the various N85 ports available. here's a list of lens diameters and some ports I have to show the variation: Oly 12-40: 69.9mm Panasonic 8-18mm: 73.4 mm Tokina 10-17mm: 69.9mm Zen DP-100 N85 port: 76mm Zen DP-170 N85mm: 76mm Nauticam macro port: 70mm Your 8-18 fits in the 7" nauticam dome and the Olympus 12-40mm fits in the Zen DP-170 and will pass through from the back with the Nauticam zoom gear attached. Seeing as how the 12-40 fits a Zen port, it follows also that the Tokina will fit with zoom gear. Where you will run into trouble is with extension rings that you need for the metabones adapter. if you could find an extension ring with the same ID as the Zen ports you could probably do it. It would need to have the same metal port attachment lugs as the Zen - not the plastic piece Nauticam uses on the smaller ports and no internal bits. Otherwise it would be the N85-N120 37.5mm adapter and the Nauticam 4.33" N120 port - which would add up to quite a bit. It's too bad Nauticam didn't use the N100 system for m43.
  9. I lost mine very quickly and never replaced them, but I always use two strobes, I expect you could find a rubber grommet that fits at any auto parts store though you might need to remove the little plate to fit it properly.
  10. Lots of different viewpoints on how often to clean - I would make the point that different strobes have different requirements. Ikelite tends to use face seals a lot on the flat back of their housing and on their strobe battery packs - these o-rings do not need to slide and are normally not greased, so a quick inspection and brush off is entirely appropriate. Others are piston design with o-rings installed on a groove in the cap which is pushed into place - straight sliding against the battery chamber inner wall needs the lightest coat of grease. Most demanding is a screw on cap where the cap is screwed on over an o-ring in a groove so you have sliding friction to deal with and you don't want the o-ring to hang up. On my Z-240s without a light greasing of the cap they have always grabbed the cap and the O-ring turns with the cap unless I put a very light coat of grease on the sliding surface of the cap. The difference it turning resistance is very noticable. The o-ring seems to wipe this light coat off as the cap is screwed on. If you are concerned about stretching your O-rings you can always change them annually. I'm still using my original O-rings 4 years later and they are behaving the same and still sealing perfectly. I don't fell comfortable screwing the cap back on if there are big drops of water clinging to the o-ring which is often the case with my o-rings so I always pull them off and dry out the groove whenever I change batteries.
  11. Nice information there, - what is the brand of the +3 in water diopter - I heard "flip" as the name of it but searching I can't find it - is it still available? I've found that macro lens data seem to be a bit of a state secret, none of the UW sites provide much information to give you an idea of how much magnification you might get and the resulting working distance. It should not be that hard to produce the equivalent of a port chart giving max magnification on the popular macro lens focal lengths and associated working distance.
  12. I dive with 3mm gloves in Sydney summer in the range 18-21°C and last winter I used them down to 14°C, this year I have 5mm Waterproof kevlar gloves they are pretty stiff but with the right technique I can operate INON Z-240 controls. I have the Kevlar as I mostly shore dive and the rocks make short work of straight neoprene gloves. If you plan on staying in the wetsuit a hooded vest is a nice investment and will get you a couple of degress cooler. If your wetsuit fits well you might find it won't fit under - but they are also effective over your suit - the seal between the vest and the hood helps a lot.
  13. Unfortunately aggregation sites are a thing on Instagram and some of them have very big followings. At least it seems they tag the source - if done properly you should get a notification that you have been tagged in a photo and you can see all photos where you have been tagged by clicking a button on your profile page. Instagram doesn't seem to discourage it and I don't know that you can prevent it apart from making your site private which defeats the purpose. Depending on who does it you can get a lot more exposure for example this non-UW image of mine was re-grammed on Planet Birds : Tagged Instagram Image It gained way way more likes and comments than even the most popular image on my site. Having said all that It's not cool to crop off the watermark and a DM to them is probably appropriate and as a commercial site they really should ask - the purpose seems to be to promote their nudi themed phone cases. Nice shots on your page by the way - at least posting got you one new follower
  14. Any number of reasons it might change - technically the limitation is that the focal plane shutter is never fully open and the second curtain starts to close before the first finishes opening so you have a wide slot moving across the frame. This is unlikely to be different between the 1/200 of non Sony strobes and 1/250 with Sony strobes. 1/250 needs to have the shutter open fully before the second curtain starts to move no matter what if any strobe is achieve sync at that speed. In any case the shutter needs to move at the same speed for shutter speeds to remain accurate. The flash needs to trigger just as the first curtain fully opens and the strobe needs to dump its full output before the second curtain starts to close . The concern is the delay of triggering the strobe once the camera sends the signal to trigger the flash - the LED needs to power up, the flash slave sensor needs to react and the strobe needs to dump. For this to change the flash needs to get it's triggering slightly sooner.
  15. Regarding the flash symbol, this will be about whether or not the camera recognizes a flash is attached to the system - the flash symbol flashing means the camera can see that a flash - in this case the Ikelte TTL module is attached. It is not clear from the instructions if the system supports flash ready signal. But the flashing symbol indicates it sees a flash attached. Have you checked your cables for continuity? this link gives some details: https://www.ikelite.com/blogs/faq/wiring-diagrams-test-firing-strobes You can see the functions of each cable - trigger, quench, ready, power and ground. TTL requires all of these to have good continuity to work. For example if you say that the flash symbol in the viewfinder keeps flashing it may not be receiving a ready signal. You need a multi-meter to confirm each individual cable is good. I assume you have checked serial numbers of your strobes with ikelite to confirm they are compatible? The website mentions there are occasional issues of that nature.
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