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ChrisRoss

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ChrisRoss last won the day on March 28 2020

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About ChrisRoss

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  • Website URL
    http://www.aus-natural.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney Australia

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    Australia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1 MkII
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z-240

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  1. Good that it worked out, sounds like anglerfish were making up a solution as they went along. The thing to remember is with S&S strobes first step is to assume there's an issue with the fibre optic cable.
  2. OK so you need to use their snoot - if indeed it does what they say it's a good solution.
  3. Can't help you on the specific question but I would mention that the pilot light is well off centre with the YS-D3 so the strobe output won't land on the same spot as the pilot light. That issue has been the subject of a number of posts from people pulling their hair out in frustration when trying to aim the snoot.
  4. The problem with the ikelite dome is that it is too small, 8"is the biggest they make. Rectilinear wide lenses are very demanding if you want nice corners - the general formula as a minimum is a 230mm or 9"dome and shooting f11-16, even then the corners are not perfect and people will use the S&S correction lens to improve them further. This can be relaxed a bit shooting creatures in blue water Cage diving I'm guessing has its unique challenges including if the gap in the cage is big enough to deal with the big domes.. The WACP is the Nauticam wide angle correction port. It is a water contact optic with full zoom through and you use it in place of a port with a lens like a kit 28-70 behind it. It is sharp to the corners even at wider apertures. Expensive though. Field of view is roughly equivalent to a 10-25mm rectilinear but with barrel distortion so a semi fisheye.
  5. The 50mm macro lens I have heard doesn't focus real fast - slower than the 90mm. You talk about 10cm subjects - anything larger? I have similar issues diving around Sydney water is not always the cleanest I use a m43 60mm macro which is equivalent to a 120mm lens so I have to be even further back though I find I can shoot 100mm seahorses with it relatively easily . Some of it is technique perhaps - pumping the focus using back button focus to convince the lens to focus on the subject not the particles. If you have a suitable dome you could try the 90mm macro in a dome - it's like a 112 mm lens through a flat port so you need to be a little closer with it in the dome. My solution in Sydney is a 24-80 equivalent lens (Olympus 12-40) which focuses very close and achieves 0.3x magnification. You could consider the Tamron 28-75 - it focuses closer than the Sony 24-70 lenses and gets 0.34x magnification and you can use it with the 180mm dome. Subjects range from 1m long blue gropers down through 40cm weedy sea dragons to smaller fish, seahorses and even large nudis.
  6. I think any time delay is inside the electronics, there are probably tricks to getting the LED up to full power quickly among other things. I did not realise you were plugging the bulkheads into the trigger - this is still using the electronics within the trigger perhaps? Not knowing the electronics within the trigger I would place that on the list of suspects. Also to be clear we are talking about the trigger being too slow and the flash not firing - is that right? Or does the flash fire but it is not syncing, or are they separate issues? So maybe I should go back over the issues in a bit of detail - sorry if it sounds pedantic but getting the details communicated clearly can be a bit hard typing responses back and forth. First when using fibre optics - You said the flash was firing 1 in 10. So let me confirm : Which strobe was connected to the anglerfish? When you say it wasn't firing do you mean it did not fire at all or does it fire but not sync so no flash in image? Are the YS-D2 and YS-D2J connected optically to the housing and both firing happily?And they were being used to trigger (sometimes) the Anglerfish and remote flash? I can see a slow response from the trigger causing the anglerfish not to sync but it shouldn't cause it not to fire I don't think. On the issue with the D2J not firing - You have this connector I assume you have this bulkhead plugged into the trigger: https://duai.com.au/product/isotta-nikonos-bulkhead-5-pin-ttl/ Do you know anyone with an electrically triggered housing you could test your D2J on preferably one that connects direct to the camera hotshoe. I'm thinking you might have a better chance of triggeting the D2J with this style of bulkhead: https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/nauticam-universal-bulkhead-connector-25056 Not suggesting you rush out and buy it but could be worth trying.
  7. here's the port chart: https://www.aquatica.ca/en/charts/canon_type_4.pdf It does not list that combination, however no problem you just need to add extension equal to the thickness between flanges of the 1.4x you use. I believe the Kenkos are 20mm thick. Aquatica have a 0.8"extension (21.5mm) and the bare lens takes one of those so on that basis you would need 21.5 + 20 = 41.5mm extension to have the same as the bare lens. So you could use 2x 0.8" rings (43mm) or a single 1.56"- 39.5mm which is either 1.5mm more or 2mm less extension than calculated. You might want to check for vignetting even if is only 1.5 mm more extension if you go with 2 x 0.8"ring option- it's probably OK particularly as you are reducing maximum field of view and probably only using the 15 - 21mm range anyway. (below 15mm the lens does not fill the 35mm frame) You could also use the 16.5mm plus 25.5mm rings for 42mm extension.
  8. it's the same situation whether it's Canon, Nikon or Sony full frame with a 16mm or wider lens.
  9. Depends on what you want to shoot - which sharks and how close will you be? At feeding dives you will might be close enough to use a fisheye, others you may want something with a touch more reach if they don't come in close. Ikelite does the job but there are compromises sometimes - read the fine print for dome port choices, they also don't have a mini dome on offer for fisheye lenses. Be aware that their TTL module is now external (used to be internal) and I am aware of at least one diver who is on their second module and was busy swearing about it as it had ongoing issues with water penetration leading to erratic flash firing.
  10. The 12-40 in a dome walks all over the 14-42 in a flat port at the wide end. The corners are going to be quite ordinary through a flat port. They will of course improve with a wet lens. At the long end the magnification on the 14-42 variants varies among the many variants. The 12-40 gets 0.3x at 40mm so at min focus the frame covers 58mm across the horizontal axis. The INON is not zoom through so more limiting and also not as wide 100° vs 130°. You can get the dome for some variants but it's a dry dome with an o-ring seal so you can't take the dome off underwater and suddenly the lens is not so compact. You can put it on a flip mount to quickly increase your field of view, more so if the dome is not installed. Note that comparing fisheye and rectilinear is a little tricky the 8mm FE is 180° diagonal and 130° across the frame the WWL is 130° on the diagonal which seems a lot smaller but on the horizontal axis it covers about 110 -115° or so, which is closer to the filed of view. Fisheyes stretch the corners a lot more so than the horizontal and vertical field. While in theory you can take the WWL off underwater, in practice it's a big heavy lump of glass you don't want to drop so you need to put it somewhere - but where?? It heavy even UW so if you get your rig near neutral and take it off it's likely to go positive - which is really painful so ideally you want to stow attached to the rig - probably on an arm, but probably not ideal. I think it's a Panasonic variant that's recommended as the best match for a WWL and you need to have the recommended port for your variant to avoid vignetting and loss of field of view - the front element needs to be close to the port glass. You also need to remove it UW to burp it to clear air bubbles from between WWL and flat port glass before you start shooting- the bubbles tend to cling. If you don't remove it to get the 14-42 range you have a roughly 10-30mm rectilinear equivalent field of view that focuses down to the front element.
  11. yes you need to service them, I service whenever I change batteries others do it less often, you should always check it closely for grit and hairs which might cause a leak. You want to make sure there's no water drops on the inside side of the o-ring. How often you need to clean them depends on where you dive - turbulent water with suspended particles or snady dive sites can be a problem. It also depends on the design of the o-ring -> o-rings that don't need lube you can just brush off, those with lube, the grit and hairs tend to stick so need more care. All o-rings need lube unless they are a flat face seal - the lube doesn't seal it just allows the o-ring to slide across the surfaces and seat properly to seal. There's a thread on this forum on the topic of how often to clean o-rings.
  12. You could look into the quick release strobe arms that have come out recently to get it off camera perhaps? an alternative you could try is that the S&S strobes have a port to daisy chain your strobes, this is just in front of the sensor port, page e-22 of manual. Run a long fibre optic from there to the strobe that won't fire electrically and use that for on camera shots and hook up your anglerfish to your other strobe? Then the one strobe would trigger electrically, and the slave cable could trigger the second strobe that won't fire electrically. There's seems to be a rash of people complaining about S&S strobes that are difficult to fire at the moment. I'm glad I went with INON for my strobes.
  13. The 12-40 actually gets better magnification than the 12-50 if you can't access the macro switch. I would agree at Bunaken I also wouldn't use the 12-40 most dives, but in temperate waters there's no shortage of subjects and not all of them fish - in murky waters using a 60mm macro for subjects bigger than maybe 150mm long is asking for trouble as the camera AF grabs particulates instead of the subject and if it doesn't backscatter is plentiful. In Sydney we have giant cuttlefish, octopus, weedy sea dragons, blue groper, large seahorses, small sea fans, sponge gardens and nudis big enough for the 12-40. I also put it to good use diving in California and also took it to Exmouth Navy pier and to shoot grey nurse sharks on sites a little out of Sydney. Again it depends on where you dive the most and the type of subjects you find there.
  14. The 8mm is a good lens, however I would temper that advice as I think it has a lot to do with what sort of subjects you are shooting. The 8mm is great for reef scenics and big schools of fish but potentially not long enough for shyer animals like some sharks. Diving temperate waters around Sydney I use the 12-40mm a lot, perfect for weedy sea dragons (about 350-400mm long) they stress if you push too close to them, it's also good for schools of fish you can't get close enough to, things like giant cuttlefish and large nudis on the same dive - It focuses down almost on the dome and you can fill the frame with a 60-70mm long nudi at 40mm focal length and there are no issues using the 170mm Zen dome that is quiet compact. Really depends on the subjects around your site. Another somewhat expensive option is the adapted Canon 8-15mm fisheye which zooms from full frame fisheye to something equivalent to the horizontal field of view of a 13mm lens (67° x 50° field - 88° diagonal). I'm mixing up rectilinear and fisheye fields of view to explain this. Fisheyes stretch most in the corners so an 8mm FE has 180° on the diagonal or about 130° horizontally which is equivalent to a 10mm lens. When zoomed to 15mm the horizontal field is about 67° which is the same horizontal coverage as a 13mm rectilinear lens but has the diagonal coverage of an 11m lens. all on m43 format. So the 8-15 gives coverage from an 8mm fisheye to 13mm rectilinear which is about the same as an 8mm fisheye lens plus a 7-14 rectilinear. You need to buy an n85 - N120 adapter, a 30mm extension ring the Canon zoom gear and the 140mm Nauticam glass dome port so the costs add up on top of an already expensive lens. You save on buying a separate dome to cover the 7-14 lens but can't use the 12-40. If you went with a 12-40 you could use the same dome for the 7-14 and possibly use that with 8mm FE, at a cost of losing a bit of close focus capability from having a bigger dome. There's also arguments over whether to use the 100mm size dome or the bigger 140mm Nauticam dome for the 8mm fisheye.
  15. Are you using TTL or manual? You can test for manual firing with this method: https://reefphoto.com/blogs/lighting/troubleshooting-strobes-with-electrical-sync Are you using one strobe on camera and one off camera? is it possible to use the sync cable on the on-camera strobe that works with electric sync and the anglerfish to trigger the other strobe that doesn't trigger electrically - optically?
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