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ChrisRoss

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Everything posted by ChrisRoss

  1. o-rings are not "wet" so drying them out is not really a thing. If it is long term storage removing o-rings and storing them in a zip lock is worth considering to avoid putting a set in them from keeping them compressed.
  2. You can submit take down notices to the service provider hosting the site. The steps are available on line. First you request them to remove from the website then if they refuse submit the takedown notice. Do you have Copyright data embedded in the image EXIF? that provides one less excuse for not contacting you.
  3. It sounds like it is getting signals crossed, presumably there is a signal that works to wake up the flash going out through the hotshoe. The only way I could imagine it doing this given your description would be a short between the main trigger cable and this cable. You could try taping all the contacts except the centre contact on the camera hotshoe to see if that causes it to stop. This would restricy the flash to manual only operation I would guess.
  4. You could try Waterproof suits - they are not very stretchy neoprene so have a wide range of sizes - more so than other manufacturers that rely on stretch to get a fit. But they don't fit everyone. They have instructions for measuring on their website. You can enter your data on this page to get an estimate of how well it fits: https://waterproofsizing.com/
  5. It has to fit in the housing and line up with the ports for the fibre optic cables. I believe the Sea Frogs housing has an issue with fibre optic triggering in that one of the ports does not align well with the cable port so there can be issues getting that flash to trigger. Can be solved using one of these to place both cables on the good port: https://www.backscatter.com/Inon-Double-Hole-Rubber-bushing-for-fiber-optic-ca I don't believe sync cords are an option on the Sea Frogs. They require a bulkhead port and have another set of rings to look after, which you don't have to worry about with fibre optic triggering.
  6. The upgrade will work fine most likely, it's a matter of whether you want to subscribe or not. I think for most amatuers the subscription thing is a giant con, they basically hold you to ransom as the upgrades they offer are really not worth it. They are masters of hiding stuff on their website as well. Whether you can keep using it depends in some part of your operating system. On Mac they have made changes making it difficult to install on the newer OS, On Windows, Windows 10 seems to install lightroom 6 and CS6 just fine still There are alternatives out there to consider including Capture one Pro and affinity photo. I bought Capture one pro rather than upgrade to PS CC when I bought my most recent camera - it does a great job of raw conversion. I still finish off in PS, but what comes out of C1 Pro is quite good and I could do more there, but still use PS as the workflow is more familiar.
  7. I would make one correction - the amount of light you need at any given subject distance is set by the aperture. The TG series at the wide end have two apertures - f2 and f2.8 - f8 is only an ND filter you only use that to try to get black backgrounds or maybe for video in shallow water to reduce the shutter speed. f2.8 is very fast meaning the less powerful strobes are adequate, strobes like the YS-01 and INON S-2000. They are fine for compacts shooting at f2.8 - 4 and 1" sensors like a Canon G7X series where you might shoot at f5.6. They are marginally OK for m43 where you would be shooting at f8. Larger sensors need a smaller aperture (bigger f number) to get adequate depth of field and this is the main driver in wide angle work all assuming shooting at the same distance.
  8. I have Z-240s and I was sold the wireless style connector it is shorter than the non wireless, I have since changed over to using the non wireless style as I found the shorter wireless style only engaged by a couple of threads on my Z-240s and that lead to the first couple of threads becoming damaged - they are a rigid type of plastic and the threads have just sort of flaked off. I find the bigger non wireless connector mush easier to thread on. You can just buy the L type connector ends separately and install them yourself if you wanted to change - I would not change yours as both styles work equally well. I find the longer non wireless style easier to thread on - they don't lock the cable tight so the cable is free to rotate and they engage on many more threads and are less prone to damaging the threads.
  9. If you are really on a budget then going with any sort of dome is probably not what you want to do. 16mm on an APS-C is not that wide, the 10mm on the 10-18 is but the 18mm end is not that long and only gets 0.1x at maximum magnification. This means you are only doing wide angle and large animals on the dive. Unless you want to invest in strobes wide angle shots will be record shots, you can colour correct if you are shallow enough but they are really not that vibrant for the most part. If you do want to go wide a wet lens on the 16-50 is possible but as they are mostly designed for 28mm focal length and don't work well at other lengths, you need to zoom to 28mm equivalent - apart from the WWL. The WWL will vignette below 19-20mm focal length on the 16-50 and you can use the rest of the range OK. There's plenty of critters on almost any dive site to photograph, the issue with your 16-50 is max magnification is only .23x. Add a diopter and you can fill the frame with smaller subjects. At min focus you can fill the frame with about a 100mm subject on the 16-50. Put the diopter on a flip frame and you can easily switch between small subjects and larger. The other benefit of this approach is the light needed is much less as you are generally a lot closer to your subject. With the diopter a decent dive torch can provide lighting because you are so close to the subject and the beam angle needed is quite narrow. A small strobe would still be better and hunting around for a second hand model could be a good solution.
  10. Exactly as I expected, there is no free lunch, good to have someone with experience reply.
  11. The problem is your reasonable may not be the same as some one else's - every manufacturer has different ideas on what is "acceptable". The S&S lens is reported to give 2 stops improvement in corner performance, so you could go from shooting at f16 to shooting at f8 in a big dome. But how to translate stops to dome size? I can shoot at f8 with a 7-14 lens on m43 with a 170mm dome and m43 is 2 stops better than FF on depth of field so it seems feasible - you would probably still need to shoot at f16 as aperture reduction and smaller dome size would be additive. I should mention though that there seems to be general consensus that the 170mm dome is marginal for m43 at 7-8mm focal length (14-16mm FF equivalent). I think my 7-14 is marginal certainly at 7mm and good by 9mm but certainly usable where you have blue water in the corners. Which would make me think the 165mm dome size would be similar on FF with the correction lens - note that it is listed last on the port combinations - it seems manufacturers list the "most optimised" combination first and then list others that work but not so good more or less in order.
  12. You use the crop factor to work out how DOF changes between sensor formats a 2x crop factor means that f8 on m43 is equivalent f16 on full frame. Here's a link with a calculator https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/digital-camera-sensor-size.htm Scroll down the the DOF section and you can see how aperture varies to get the same DOF with different sensor formats.
  13. It's all about context. The OP said he thought the extra MP would be an advantage for cropping - my response was along that line of thinking - slightly smaller pixels on the D500 mean that at the same distance it has a slight resolution advantage. The noise and diffraction issues are other arguments - most photographers are stopping way down for DOF or to bring the corners in for wide angle work and that combined the underwater optics - dome ports etc mean the increased resolution is potentially an illusion. The argument about big and small pixels is equally about context - with the same generation sensor the overall image quality won't be a great deal different between big and small pixels from a noise perspective. The surface area of the sensor is what sets the amount of light collected and that is what is important for image quality. But at a pixel level individual pixels will have worse signal to noise and viewing the image at 100% will look worse on an computer screen - because the pixels are smaller at 100% you are zoomed in a lot more.
  14. 10,000 lumens sounds like a lot but it's not, at least compared to strobe lighting. Someone has tested this: This is with twin 14,000 lumen lights, they are not small items and need quite a big battery to run for any length of time. Sure you can add more light but it gets to be a very big item, to carry and push through the water, very quickly. and you need to be able to place the light properly so being too big can be a real issue. As far as the price goes the LEDs running the 10,000-14,000 lumen video lights are state of the art items -if it was easy to pack more lumens into a dive size item they would be on the shelves being sold right now. Tooling up build these things costs money and that money is spread over a very small number of items, there's a casing resistant to 40+m of water pressure and optics to consider as well to get a even beam, not to mention temperature controls to shed heat - the enemy of any electronics. The Market for these types of items is really quite small. Yes the prices seem inflated - everything used underwater is like that - you can get cheap knock-offs of many items, they will mostly work but lights for example may be extremely optimistic in their stated lumen output. Light that are this bright also cause issues with scaring off marine life, The strobe is only illuminated for a short while, measured in milliseconds and you can move in close without the subject being spooked. Where it can work is close in macro work if the lights are very close to the subject you can work with a lot less lumens and there are LED lights with a flash function so you can approach with low power.
  15. Only other thing I can think of is to try and see if you can activate the flash with an IR remote(from a TV) if there is one in your accommodation. Try it with your good flash first to confirm the remote is fine. It might indicate that the problem flash is not getting as much or enough light to trigger. Probably a real long shot. Hopefully you can get somewhere! Happy New Year!
  16. There is always a possible workaround. This article outlines one way to do it: https://au.pcmag.com/vmware-fusion-8-for-mac/63913/how-to-run-32-bit-apps-in-macos-catalina In theory you could just run the installers from your virtual machine or a partioned boot and never have to go back to it.
  17. I assume you mean that the focus point is 20cm from the sensor plane. The Nikon 60mm f2.8G lens focuses 18.5cm from the sensor at min focus distance and is about 89mm long. I would guess that the front of the port is about 12cm from the sensor so your working room is about 6.5cm when you are focussed at 1:1 which is already in the not so easy to light territory. You can check this out on land by moving the housed camera physically closer to a target until it won't focus closer. It sounds like there is limited opportunity to focus closer with a wet lens. The 105mm macro on the other hand focuses at 31cm or so and as a result is better able to make use of closup wet lenses. About the only way I could see achieving more magnification with the 60mm would be using a 1.4x - I'm not sure how the 60mm behaves with a 1.4x - AF may or may not behave well and the nikon version of the 1.4x probably does not fit. You would need to add extension to your port equivalent to the thickness of the converter. Another alternative might be the Nikon 85mm macro lens which is 28cm min focus distance. Nauticam specify the same port combo for this lens as the 60mm f2.8G so it might fit in your Aquatica port???? it is 9mm longer according to the specs. That still does 1:1 but 10cm more working distance and might be an option for a wet lens.
  18. Glad it worked out, nice you you got back to the post to let us know how it worked out.
  19. Weigh your rig in water using a travel scale, takes the guess work out of it. Just hang the fully setup rig from a rope or similar and be sure it is 100% submerged. Fresh water is fine, it has only a little less buoyancy than in salt. It will be fine if you end up 100gr or so negative in fresh.
  20. I use INON float arms with my rig, with original blue and orange o-rings and don't experience any issues with arm movement. I have the small mega float arms with Nauticam aluminium arms on my macro and fisheye port. I use a medium and medium large arm each side for my 180mm dome. The strobes are INON Z-240 You won't have issues apart from the macro rig being heavier swapping between macro and dome port as long as you don't go positive. With my rig the two small INON mega arms are enough to go positive with my bigger dome, but work fine with macro and 100mm fisheye dome. You need to weigh your rig in water and work out a combination that will work with both ports. You do have to crank them down on land to stop them drooping but in water I back them all off and they work fine without any hint of the problems you describe. With the mega float arms I use the long clamps due to the diameter of the float arm.
  21. Very good - if you are stuck and can't get the broken switch to come out an "ezy-out" of the right size from a machinery supply should help - for future reference of any others finding this thread. You actually don't need an o-ring there is no hole to the inside from this switch. I would also suggest testing the strobe out to be sure it is still water tight before committing to a dive with batteries installed in salt water. It appears you have disturbed the front seal so checking that still seals will be important. I see two options submerging in clean fresh water with no batteries installed and checking for appearance of leaks - that way if it does leak you can just dry it out. Or you could send it in for pressure testing. Maybe discuss with reef photo??
  22. Yes it definitely is magentic. I searched and found this post with a description of how to remove the button:
  23. I would think a different approach, I can see plastic has brown around the modelling light switch, you press the switch inwards which pushes the magnet in to activate the modelling light. That switch can be taken apart, I would disassemble the switch and remove the magnet all together. That should turn turn the light off. I've seen other posts on here about replacing magnets so it should be possible to disassemble and have no magnet or switch.
  24. If you mean a dome port, in general no, though Nauticam does make a flip holder to use a macro wet lens on the 4" wide angle port which is for lenses like the 14-42 and a handful of others- it's quite a specific application for a small range of lenses.
  25. The other issue is you don't want to just polish out the scratch area you need to go well beyond to blend into the rest of the dome to maintain the sphericity of the dome. There is no way to do this properly reaching in through the port/extension. If you replace the acrylic you could attempt to repair the old dome to use as a spare, just to see how feasible such a repair is.
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