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uwphoto

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uwphoto last won the day on March 19 2018

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  1. The slave strobe adapter and the white Nikonos body cover are gone. I'm going to keep the small digital camera and housing, one SB-105, and one Nikonos arm and single tray. One of my nieces is finishing her certification in August, I should keep a spare camera handy. I've been told I should list prices for this stuff, so here are some. They are mostly negotiable, especially if you buy a bunch of it. All Aquatica gears are $20, less if you take more than one. Maybe a lot less... The Stromm stuff is free, you pay shiping or arrange to get them somehow. The Aquatica N90 housings are probably free too, including the cameras. The TTL bulkheads and the handles, which I think are the same as on the current housings, are worth more than that. The extension tubes and framers are also free. The Nikonos arms and trays are a dollar or two but I'd like to offer them to whoever takes the Nikonos cameras or strobes first. Make me an offer on a body or strobe and I'll throw in arms, trays, adapters and maybe sync cords if they are still available. Offer me a couple dollars for the small flashlight and mount or the Morris slave (or both). I'll be out of town for a couple weeks in August - if I don't respond quickly it is probably because I'm traveling.
  2. Aperture gears and a focus gear. More gears. I think the one on the bottom left is a 60mm manual/auto gear. I think the other unlabeled gear is a type 1 for 35-70mm. The item in the middle on the bottom isn't for sale unless you convince me you really need it. Not really an underwater camera part but it was packed with other underwater camera stuff. It is an MC-12A cable release. Morris slave strobe with a weighted handle. I have never taken this into the water, which may be why it isn't flooded. The weighted handle is nice, though. Another thing I found packed with the underwater camera gear. I'm not that eager to sell this one - a couple of my nieces and nephews are learning to dive and if one wants a camera it might be better to hand them something like this rather than one of my dual strobe housings. The last time someone used it we set it up on a Nikonos tray and used an SB-105 as a slave. Three Sea and Sea dual sync chords and one single. I used these with the D200 housings and Z240 strobes. I think they still have value. That's all I'm posting for now (unless I find I've missed something). I am currently shooting with an Aquatica housing and a D7200 so I'd consider any trade for stuff that works with it. Beyond that a few things here have value and the rest I'm more interested in getting out of the house.
  3. Two Aquatica 90 housings with cameras. They have single Nikonos TTL connectors. The pink or white dots are nail polish. These use the current style ports, not the old ones. They have TTL connectors. Two Aquatica D200 housings. These have Heinrich Weikamp TTL Converters installed. I used them successfully with Inon Z240 2 strobes. I have the bolts and camera trays for all of these housings. No ports are available. Three D200 bodies. One has a Really Right Stuff tripod plate - I may have more of those plates somewhere. There are also a couple cable releases and spare batteries. Someone is selling a complete D200 outfit on WetPixel. If you buy his you could also pick up one of my housings and cameras for spare parts!
  4. This is an Anthis CL-100 close-up adapter. It fits over the Nikonos RS 50mm lens. It isn't powerful enough to do much with the basic lens but performs well with the 2X teleconverter behind it. It will also work with some housings. This is a small flashlight which can sit on top of a Nikonos or housing. I don't know if it works. These Stromm housings were used with Nikon 8008s or N90 cameras. There are flat ports for 60mm and 105mm lenses and a dome port for a 20mm lens. There are three backs which are set up for different gear arrangements. They could be modified to work with something else. They might even float with no camera inside.
  5. This obscure thing is a slave adapter for an SB-103. It was made in Japan but I don't remember the manufacturer. It is probably worthless and will be priced accordingly. This may be all the Nikonos RS stuff I have left. If you look closely in the upper middle of the bag you will see a Nikonos RS sync cord jack. I believe that is an unused spare. I used to be able to field strip an RS and replace that plug but that was a long time ago. I may still have a "cheat sheet" which covers the important steps, such as which way to set the knobs before removing the innards. I doubt Nikon still has this part in stock! One is a Marine Meter and the other three are Marine Meter II. All of them read OK on the battery check. The Marine Meter has a red front and one of the others has a yellow front, if this makes any difference. It may not be legal to sell the "new old stock" batteries but if someone wants meters I'll throw them in. These are Underwater Photo-Tech dual trays. They will work with Nikonos arms and can be used with a Nikonos or Nikonos RS. At least one has been machined to accept the two Aquatica handles and also, I think, some of the housings that I will list. The other parts are TLC adapters for the Nikonos strobes making it possible to attach them to TLC / Aquatica and other arms. I might have some matching TLC arm segments somewhere.
  6. Five single sync cords Three old-style double sync cords. These don't work well with the RS and certain lenses. Three new-style double sync cords. These will work with the RS and all lenses. Two SB-102 strobes. I used industrial NiCad batteries with these. I charged up a set and both strobes fired. I'll include the extra battery holders and the batteries if you want - and I could throw in the charger I used with the too. I'm not sure how many of these work. I charged up a set of batteries and two of them fired and two didn't. But then I tried the original two and they didn't fire either. I suspect the batteries weren't in good shape and I'll probably pitch all of the old AA batteries. The holders in the photo are from SB-103 strobes which are long gone. There are a couple extra SB-105 battery clips.
  7. I've accumulated a lot of underwater camera "stuff" over the years. I want to them out. For most I will consider any reasonable and possibly unreasonable offer - I won't be insulted. Or if you are or know of an organization that wants a donation of any of this stuff that's good too. Priority will be given to people who want the most stuff. I'm in New England and might be able to help with avoiding shipping if you are in the area. Three Nikonos 5 bodies. They all worked when I used them last. And there is a UR/PRO 58mm CY filter. 15mm, 20mm, 28mm, 35mm, and 80mm lenses and 15mm and 20mm finders with the 28mm adapter. Also the 80mm above water finder. The 15mm is probably worth something, maybe the 20mm. Close-up kit. Note that the bolt is not permanently stuck in the holder! Helix extension tube set. There are two of the smallest tube. The 1:3 framer needs to be repaired. Nikonos trays and arms
  8. Would you sell the macro port separately from the extension?
  9. Hi Tim, What is the condition of the 18-300? And what do you estimate the shipping costs to the continental US would be?
  10. Pavel, What optical converter are you using? UW Technics or something else?
  11. Roberts Camera is selling a new old stock Aquatic 18774 leak detector on eBay. Unless you have parts lying around you probably can't build one for what they are asking.
  12. I built a leak detector years ago using four parts - a battery, a resistor, a HEXFET, and a piezo buzzer. I don't know how to enter a schematic so I'll describe it. The HEXFET has three leads, source, drain, and gate. The drain is connected to the piezo buzzer. The other lead of the piezo buzzer is connected to the + terminal of the battery. The HEXFET source is connected to the - lead of the battery. The resistor, which is a high value, maybe 100K or 1 Meg, is connected between the source and gate. The detector is two wires near each other. One is connected to the gate of the HEXFET and the other is connected to the + lead of the battery. I built it on a piece of perfboard and used a couple gold plated pins for the detector. Most of the parts were from my junkbox, nothing is critical. I tested it by touching a damp finger to the detector wires, and the buzzer did sound. I never had it activate in water as the housing never flooded.
  13. Thanks JohnS86! That's the kind of information I was looking for. It looks like the Aquatica is the way for me to go. I can move almost everything over from my old housing except for a few gears. I have Z-240 strobes so I'll move from Nikonos connectors to optical. Video is tempting. Maybe I'll look for a focusing light which can also be used for close-up video. But for now the housing purchase will dent the toys budget and I need to leave enough money to go on vacation with the new housing.
  14. I'm also looking at buying a D7200 housing. In my case I have older Aquatica equipment so I can save money if I buy a housing which can use the existing ports. The Nauticam is tempting because the buttons seem easier to press than the Aquatica. But it would cost a lot more - I would have to buy a new viewfinder and sell the one I have, gears cost more, and some of my strobe arms wouldn't work well. In trying to figure out if the differences would matter to me I realized that I don't really know which buttons I would be likely to use underwater. I can shoot in manual mode and mostly just change the aperture, occasionally the shutter speed. Or I could do most of my wide-angle work in aperture preferred mode. But I suspect that's not taking the best advantage of the capabilities of the D7200. I'm sure there are plenty of D7200 users reading this forum - what settings do you use and what buttons are you frequently reaching for underwater?
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