Jump to content

belizediversity

Member
  • Content Count

    55
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About belizediversity

  • Rank
    Lionfish
  • Birthday 04/02/1962

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Belize

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Belize
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus E500
  • Camera Housing
    Ike
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite ds125
  1. Apologies if this topic has been covered already but any opinions of the canon 10-22 over the Tokina 10-17. The reason I ask is that most websites have the Tokina 10-1NH on back order and only offer the 10-17DX. It will be impossible to shave off the lens hood down here in Belize unless I try with my vice and hack saw :-(
  2. I am frustrated by the my Heinrich Weikamp RSU. It works fine in low light but anything brighter than a dim room and it refuses to fire the strobe. I have tried cutting an old film container to enclose the RSU but that doesn't improve the situation and wrapping it in a thick felt to cut down the ambient light but still no firing in average light conditions Any pointers or tips. I have attached to a Sea and Sea DS60.
  3. Great shot, plenty of action to such a simple composition.
  4. I forgot to post this earler but what the heck it's still october so I figure it's still relevant. Scuba Diving Magazine October 2008 issue is covering Belize, the two whaleshark shots are mine and were taken while on a two day search for whalesharks at Gladden Spit with Ike and Gil of the magazine. We had two days of fruitless floating in the blue and had almost given up hope when the gods smiled on us and we found one on the surface. These shots was taken in the last moments of the last day out. Many thanks for Ike and Gil's patience and The Inn at Roberts Grove great hospitality. Martin
  5. I have noticed that if you let the housing heat up prior or between dives then fogging can be problem. By this I mean I had a spate of fogging problems with P&S and DSLR housings and remedied it by: 1 Keeping the housing cool before the dive- a covered plastic box worked 2 Prior to diving emersing the housing for several minutes in the sea to see if fogging was going to occur 3 Keeping the camera cool between dives- in the same water filled plastic box or haning under the boat on very hot days I have seen housings assembled in a/c environment fog too but the silcia gel packs can reduce the incdences of fogging, don't throw them away you can rejuvinate them several timeswith a quick nuke in a microwave I have remedied a fogged housing in the field by taking the back off in the boat and letting the air equibrilate then replacing the back, I cannot see how that fits in with only assembling in an a/c environment. I think it is a dew point problem which in my distant past I rememeber having to study but now is just a distant and very hazy memory, I'm sure an HVAC engineer could fathom it out. As to why the lens only fogs, I think the glass/acrylic on the port is a better conductor of heat than most housing materials and so cools quicker when taken underwater. Therefore (frustratingly) the water vapour will condense on the cool inside surface of the port rather than the inside walls of the housing
  6. 1/60th @ f8 is my starting point for macro I then bracket around that depending on what I am trying to achieve. 1/100 @ f22 seems a bit extreme plus I tend to stay away from f16 so that I can get most out of the optics of the lens.
  7. I have found that letting the housing warm up prior to diving greatly increases the chances of fogging. I'm sure there is a tech reason for this (I did chemistry at uni. and dimly remember some stuff about dew points) but keeping the housing from warming up is definitely one way to reduce fogging. I have resorted to hanging the camera over the side in the surface interval on occassions but always remember to retrieve the camera when the anchor is being weighed
  8. Gas prices and the economy have definitely reduced the number of US tourists down here. We still have visitors but I see a drop. On a side note all the condo developments here are being funded by Alberta based oil groups whereas in previous years it was principally US investors in these sort of projects. I am sitting on the fence at the moment as to how this will all pan out, I think it will stabilize when the US economy sorts itself out and we have become used to the price of gas. I remember in the UK during the 70's gas hit 1 pound a gallon, it was the end of the world but we all became used to it after a while. Martin
  9. I mostly use Duracell brand currently using 2300mAh which work fine. I have used the Duracell 2650 mAh but I think they must be slightly larger than the spec size. They stressed the battery cover of both of Olympus 5050's and broke the catches which I managed to fix with a few small screws. This was closely followed by getting them stuck in my laser level (building tool) which was pain in the arse and took alot of gentle tapping and prying to get them back out. They went in the garbage after that before anymore damage was done. Martin
  10. I use an Ikelite DSLR housing which is a little over a year old, it has probalby done 150-200 dives with no leaks or "trade mark" dribbles. I will get another Ike housing when the need arises. The port latch mechanism seems secure to me, once an o ring is seated in the groove and properly lubed it will do its job. With all housings it is important to get into a predive drill about assembly, don't be too anal but clean and lube the obvious o rings and the double check visually that they have all seated correctly when the housing is closed. I agree, user error is probably the biggest single cause or housing flooding.
  11. You should be able to tape a small bit of the filter to the rear of the lens. Makes sure it doesn't interfere with focusing or the electrical contacts.
  12. I have also customized my Smugmug Pro account although I think I will work on it again when I get time. Check it out at www.spraggshots.com. I have printed a few large prints from the site an have been very happy witht the results. The printer is EZ Prints, if you go to their website (www.ezprints.com) you can get a sample print to help you keep your monitor in trim with their colour settings. Plus there is a downloadable ICC profile which will help you keep the colours true. Martin
  13. The 50mm is a great lens above and below water, worth the extra $$'s.
  14. A friend of mine has shots of a manta giving birth they were taken about 40 years ago in the Red Sea (I think). Here is the link to the pics on his site: http://www.robertofabbri-wildlife.com/manta.html Martin
×
×
  • Create New...