Jump to content

serpentara

Member
  • Content Count

    14
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

serpentara last won the day on September 9 2019

serpentara had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About serpentara

  • Rank
    Sea Nettle

Recent Profile Visitors

690 profile views
  1. I have two domes, a 5" and a 9". I shoot the rectilinear lens with the 9". The whole "switching to usb mode to change the settings" issue differs from camera to camera. When I shot my GH5 it was not an issue. I don't recall if it still is.
  2. See post above. I also notice that the sides/corners of the frame are very blurry using the 16-35 F4 lens stopped down to F8 or F9, and the 9" dome but since this is my first housing I do not know if that is the normal amount of blur for underwater housings.
  3. So for the A7RIII there is a significant lag when switching between using the shutter/autofocus and changing the settings. Essentially if you want to change the F-Stop, ISO, Shutter speed, it requires the camera to switch over to USB mode. Once in USB mode the response is instantaneous. When you want to use the shutter again it must leave USB mode to allow the shutter to actuate. The switch back and fourth takes a few seconds. That can be super annoying. Once back in shutter mode the responsiveness is instantaneous. The other thing that I do not like is that some components are 3D printed that should not be. Primarily the sun shades. the way they are made with a FDM process puts the deposition plane in line with the shear plane which means that the shades break fairly easily if they get bumped. I have broken both the shade on my full frame port (9") and my smaller port (5")
  4. I have been diving a Leo 3 Wii for 3 years first with a Panasonic GH5 then a Sony A7RIII let me know if you have questions.
  5. The thing is the draw happens on land when the strobe is dry.
  6. Are these still on track for September/October shipping? I am looking to replace 2 YS-D2 (non j) On a related topic, if I have a Retra LSD fitted for YS-D2 what do I need to fit it for these? How much is the adapter?
  7. Hi, I have two Inon Z240, and two D2000,  strobes for sale in fine, perfect working condition, with original boxes and all original accessories, should you be interested.  

    1. serpentara

      serpentara

      Thank you. I am looking for the Z330 or the Retra. 

  8. STROBE IS SOLD. Will ship out Tuesday. Thank you for the quick and seamless transaction.
  9. Hi Folks. I was fortunate enough to place third in Intermediate Traditional Macro in this year's Monterey Shootout, and my prize was a brand new in box Ikelite DS161 strobe + battery. Unfortunately, I am not an Ikelite shooter. However, I do want to parlay my winnings into replacing my very very temperamental Sea & Sea YS-D2s (non J). To be clear this is the strobe head + 1 battery together in the box. I will happily part with the strobe+battery for $900 USD shipped to the continental US. I can do PayPal or Venmo. I know I don't have a ton of posts (mostly a lurker) so for vetting purposes my info: My ebay user ID is automaton3. My website is www.drewwilsonphotography.com My Facebook account is http://www.facebook.com/drew.wilson.7798 Please let me know if you have any questions!
  10. Still on track for September/October shipping? If I have a Retra LSD fitted for YS-D2 what do I need to fit it for these?
  11. I am half way ready to tell Sea & Sea exactly where they can shove my YS-D2 (non J) strobes. One had to replace a bulb after about a year. The second I had to replace a charred front housing. Both repairs were $200+ Now one of the strobes has a parasitic draw when the batteries are in it. If I prep my camera the night before and try to shoot it the next day, the batteries in one of the strobes will pretty much be dead. More than 24 hours, guaranteed completely dead. This is with the power switch set to "off." Has anyone had a similar problem? I am seriously considering replacing them with Inon Z330s or the new Retra strobes if they EVER actually ship. I really don't want to pay Sea & Sea a second time for YS-D2J which is what the original YS-D2 should have been...
  12. Stupid question I am sure but where do I buy the 5 mini? I have a version 3 that I have already replaced the PCB once and probably need to do so again (the light is stuck on always on red). Having the electronics (at least the battery) inside the housing makes sense to me. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. I just got back from a trip over labor day. It was fantastic. You can see pics here: https://www.drewwilson.photography/Sharks-And-Eels/Great-White-Sharks/ As for tips I posted the following on facebook https://www.facebook.com/drew.wilson.7798/posts/10161018491485284: With friends about to head out to shoot the great whites, I thought I would post some tips that I found during my own trip, some of which might be a little unintuitive. I was shooting with a Panasonic GH5. I invite others to chime in: 1. GET LOW. Nobody cares about the top of the shark. The money is in the mouth and the eyes. Most of the diving is from surface cages, meaning the deepest you can get is 8-10 feet. I found kneeling in the cages worked the best for maximum stability and best angle. 2. Shoot on burst with continuous autofocus. It is all about the action with these sharks. A great shot is them going after the bait with their mouth open and if you wait to try to take a shot just at the perfect moment you will miss it. 3. Use single point AF (or small zone). There are a ton of smaller schooling fish that rush the bait when it is thrown. The sharks make them scatter and are often much closer to your camera than the shark is. You need to be able to punch through these fish, who act like backscatter to get to the shark. 4. Shoot with a high shutter speed. I shot at my maximum strobe sync speed. 1/250. I would have shot even faster if I could. Sometimes the shark moves slowly, but often they are rushing the bait and thrashing about. Sometimes YOU are the one moving when the cage bounces around from the swell. Freeze that action! 5. Shoot with a relatively high F Stop. I shot most of my pics at F6.3. You want corner to corner sharpness in your dome since your goal is to fill the frame with the shark. That means the most interesting part with the finest detail (the teeth) will often be at the side of your frame. 6. Shoot with a medium zoom lens. Most of my shots, including head on shot everyone loves (https://www.drewwilson.photography/…/Great-White-…/i-QP8jWXf ) were shot with a 24-70mm equivalent lens. In fact the head on shot was a 70mm! The bait is thrown a good 10-15 feet in front of the cages. They pull the bait in, but most of the action occurs 10-15 feet away. Even a big great white will look quite small on a 16mm lens when they are 15 feet away. It is really nice to be able to change the zoom to track the shark as it moves about. I had started with a 14-28mm equivalent but was shooting everything at 28mm. The sharks don't always swim RIGHT in front of your cage. A little reach can be helpful. 7. Shoot at a relatively high ISO in order to target proper exposure. I had my ISO at 400-800 the whole time to make the exposure reading within a decent range of center. 8. Set your strobes to medium power so they cycle fast and can add fill lighting. The strobes are only really useful when your subject is within 5-10 feet. At 10 they will lose color, but help to get rid of some of the shadows and show the contrast between the top and bottom of the shark.
×
×
  • Create New...