I just got back from a trip over labor day. It was fantastic. You can see pics here: https://www.drewwilson.photography/Sharks-And-Eels/Great-White-Sharks/
As for tips I posted the following on facebook https://www.facebook.com/drew.wilson.7798/posts/10161018491485284:
With friends about to head out to shoot the great whites, I thought I would post some tips that I found during my own trip, some of which might be a little unintuitive. I was shooting with a Panasonic GH5. I invite others to chime in:
1. GET LOW. Nobody cares about the top of the shark. The money is in the mouth and the eyes. Most of the diving is from surface cages, meaning the deepest you can get is 8-10 feet. I found kneeling in the cages worked the best for maximum stability and best angle.
2. Shoot on burst with continuous autofocus. It is all about the action with these sharks. A great shot is them going after the bait with their mouth open and if you wait to try to take a shot just at the perfect moment you will miss it.
3. Use single point AF (or small zone). There are a ton of smaller schooling fish that rush the bait when it is thrown. The sharks make them scatter and are often much closer to your camera than the shark is. You need to be able to punch through these fish, who act like backscatter to get to the shark.
4. Shoot with a high shutter speed. I shot at my maximum strobe sync speed. 1/250. I would have shot even faster if I could. Sometimes the shark moves slowly, but often they are rushing the bait and thrashing about. Sometimes YOU are the one moving when the cage bounces around from the swell. Freeze that action!
5. Shoot with a relatively high F Stop. I shot most of my pics at F6.3. You want corner to corner sharpness in your dome since your goal is to fill the frame with the shark. That means the most interesting part with the finest detail (the teeth) will often be at the side of your frame.
6. Shoot with a medium zoom lens. Most of my shots, including head on shot everyone loves (https://www.drewwilson.photography/…/Great-White-…/i-QP8jWXf ) were shot with a 24-70mm equivalent lens. In fact the head on shot was a 70mm! The bait is thrown a good 10-15 feet in front of the cages. They pull the bait in, but most of the action occurs 10-15 feet away. Even a big great white will look quite small on a 16mm lens when they are 15 feet away. It is really nice to be able to change the zoom to track the shark as it moves about. I had started with a 14-28mm equivalent but was shooting everything at 28mm. The sharks don't always swim RIGHT in front of your cage. A little reach can be helpful.
7. Shoot at a relatively high ISO in order to target proper exposure. I had my ISO at 400-800 the whole time to make the exposure reading within a decent range of center.
8. Set your strobes to medium power so they cycle fast and can add fill lighting. The strobes are only really useful when your subject is within 5-10 feet. At 10 they will lose color, but help to get rid of some of the shadows and show the contrast between the top and bottom of the shark.