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Everything posted by suahuatica

  1. Hi Chris, thanks for writing me I do very specific types of low light photography that need ultrawide (weitwinkel) lenses. There's no compromise. So I really need to fit the 14mm and I need the F1.8. I've tried pretty wideangle lenses myself so far (14mm F2.8 and 16mm F1.4 - the latter being APS-C but with a little crop it's fine) and the results were fine for my usage scenarios. I'll keep looking I guess.
  2. hi all! I'm doing underwater photography with my A7-III and a Samyang 14mm F2.8 lens at the moment. It's not an ideal setup however (strong vignetting) using my Seafrogs housing (meikon). Unfortunately the Seafrogs housing has a maximum entry diameter of around 89mm. While the Sigma lens is 95.4mm diameter. Are there any brands of underwater housings that can fit this beauty?
  3. Hi Bill, Wow! That's unexpected. I looked high and low for others who did this, but it seems I did not look well enough. Was it a lot of work to do all that? CAn you tell me how you added the extra mm safely? Thanks!
  4. I actually prefer to get the white balance as perfect as possible in the RAW converter. The more you start pulling the colors and contrasts afterwards, the more risk you will have of seeing noticeable banding/noise/artifacts. And on the subject of sharpening : Sharpening more than once in an image is not good, in my view. As sharpening looks at edges of darker and lighter color and adds lighter and darker lines of a certain amount of pixels to that, doing it twice basically means you are sharpening your sharpening artifacts. Smart sharpen really has negated the need for extreme sharpening anyway, if applied thoughtfully. If your image really needs extreme amounts of sharpening, perhaps it wasn't too sharp to begin with and you should investigate why. Lens too soft? Stop down, find a different zoom setting (lenses are not equally sharp over their entire zoomrange), or if needed find a different lens. Can also be other things such as poor quality dome port (scratches or just the design itself). If it's the lack of contrast in the water then LCE/Dehaze offer you much more benefit than sharpening, as they increase the contrast of image parts in a smart way, meaning that you don't need to apply as much sharpening. If any at all.
  5. There's a couple of options. First of all, there's the windows application called 'Gramblr' which really worked well for me. I have however left it in favor of running Instagram in a virtual machine, there are various software companies who offer (Free) software to do that with. My favorite is Genymotion, but you do have to install google play manually and that requires installing some zip files from the internet, including x86 interpretation pack and such. So better if you are slightly geeky/inquisitive
  6. Looks like the dehaze function or other similar local contrast enhancement applied to videoframes. I was surprised Adobe Premire did not come up with soon after introducing it in Photoshop...
  7. Highly worth it, the Adobe CC version of photoshop is excellent for underwater photographers, as for example it includes the dehaze function. Which, honestly, is your best friend for anything submerged
  8. Hi all, I've been struggling with the limitations of my kitlens in the Meikon housing for my Alpha 6000. Mostly the lack of depth of selective DOF, and lack of light in certain locations (deeper waters, small caves/tunnels etc). I work exclusively with natural light with my underwater model photography. I've tried the Sigma 19mm 2.8 and was unsatisfied with it's performance (Besides that it's just 1/2 a stop of better than the kit lens), mostly due to lack of micro contrast. Now, I've noticed the Meikon lens 'port' has a set of screws on the front that, I presume, seal the glass and the rubber ring/flap inside against the housing making it watertight. I'm considering removing the screws and extending the port artificially by an other 2cm, meaning I could fit more interesting lenses (perhaps even the 24mm 1.8 from Zeiss, although that might be a bit tight). What do people think about this plan? I'm hesitant to unscrew and "just see" what's below as I depend on the housing to do sessions with clients.
  9. Actually the Kitlens around the 35mm setting can be surprisingly good. Distortion isn't bad, neither is vignetting (both worst at 16mm end, and the 50mm end has a loss in sharpness). Are you working with flashes? Or with natural light? If you're not going very deep the kitlens might actually work out.
  10. Was it so banged up you couldn't polish it ? Or it's not an acrylic dome?
  11. Just use the cheapest possible sturdy-ish tripod you can find, attach diving lead as a center column weight. Or add diving weights to the end of each foot (mine had the option to remove the rubber and screw the pin into the lead). It worked fine, but obviously not when there are huge amount of currents (water is much denser than water as some of you might know ).
  12. If you can get a broken Meikon housing ..many of them come with the detector in place, if it's physically broken (But did not flood) you might be able to get your hands on a spare part
  13. I've used the Canvas Factory which ships worldwide and prints in - I believe - both the USA and China. I had prints delivered to a demanding client from China and she was very pleased with the quality. Price is very good too, customer service friendly and very swift to reply!
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