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About grahamz

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    Olympus EM10
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    Nauticam NA EM10
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  1. Thought In would drop in a report form my recent trip as info for this destination is not too common Malpelo MV Ferox Liveaboard Summary (April 2022)A trip of a lifetime and well worth the effort, for me up there alongside the Galapagos and Raja Ampat it is that good, visibility is probably the poorest of the 3 at 15 metres but this appears to be down to the sheer volume of life in the water which perhaps explains why the schools of fish are so large in size Compilation Video with mainly natural light pics and video using my EM5iii and my dive buddies Go Pro 9 LogisticsMany options from London UK but by far the easiest is the direct night flights using Avianca from LHR to Bogota taking about 11 hours, food is so so but not really a problem as all I want to do on a night flight is sleep and ate in the airport before take off Avianca internal flights are frequent, cheap and extra luggage is good value, Avianca were very good, 4 out of 5 flights on time and the 5th was a 3 hour delay but they knew this when I got to the airport and quickly bumpned me up to an earlier flight 10 day trip, 3 days for the crossings and 7 days diving, 3 dives per day & 2 on last day Once in Bogota it is easy to get a flight down to Cali where the trip ends and starts, would highly recommend arriving a day early to acclimatise and in case your luggage gets delayed it has a day to catch up (one reason to use Avianca as they have daily flight from LHR) Trip booking is easiest direct with their company Columbia Dive Adventures (you can also pay park fees, 15 litre tank costs in advance too) Ferox Boat A fantastic boat for diving, 320 tonnes so it rides the waves well on the 30 hour journey and whilst moored at Malpelo, don’t expect high end luxury but if you want a boat is well adapted for diving which is what this trip is all about the Ferox is your vessel. Plenty of single cabins, I only wish more boats had these, air con and the showers were really strong and never ran out of hot water - something other boats frequently lack. Not a bad crossing but if you do get seasick or simply don’t want to take a chance then the patches behind the ears and/or the travel wrist bands are very good, just make sure you put them on when you get on the boat. A great crew and atmosphere, you can even have a go driving the boat - where else due you ever get the opportunity! Diving All diving is done from 2 ribs, small groups of 6 + a Divemaster (an added benefit as the boat only takes 12 people) your gear stays on the rib all week and the tanks are filled directly from the main boat to the rib. 32% Nitrox is standard & in reality mandatory if you want to maximise your safety and dive time, 15 litre cylinders are available for a little extra and a must really for any man (women are sooo much better on air generally) The extra gas ensures you can do a full hour, deal with the current / surge and deeper dives with no issues A 5mm wetsuit, 0.5mm skin plus thin hood and gloves were fine, water temperatures from 28 down to 22 degrees with only 1 dive below 20 degrees at depth (The Ferox shark). Gloves are a must due to the large number of barnacles and whilst you can reef hook we all simply held onto the bare rock where really necessary. Current was not bad at all and due to the number of sites where current was too strong then it is simply a matter of going to another location, surge was a factor more often that not to deal with and often down to 15 metres. 3 dives a day is about right, on some dives you get down or close ish to deco so the 2-3 hour surface interval really helps off gas. It goes like this Breakfast 1 (Cereals, Fruit, Bread) Dive 1 - 7.30 > Breakfast 2 (Eggs anyway and local food) Dive 2 - 11.30 > Lunch (Soup, Rice, Veg or Meat) Dive 3 - 2.30 > (nibbles) then Dinner 6.30 Food is not 5* but was tasty enough and kept me fuelled for the dives, perhaps too much rice. Safety is strictly enforced and poor actions will impact your whole group’s dive & experience, don’t forget you are 30 hours from help. Murco transponders are issued to every diver for the trip in case you are blown off into the blue but the dive guides here know Malpelo well and some have done 1,000s of dives here so don’t worry A very diverse group on our trip from across the world which for me made the experience more memorable, a great bunch of ghouls & girls. The Important Part - Aquatic Life The sheer volume and size of the fish life is second to none, I have not seen so many schools of fish anywhere else in the world including the Galapagos. All the fish here are at the top of the tree and reach their maximise size, 4ft Jacks, 2ft Leather Bass etc etc. Hammerhead sharks abound, saw a shoal below us 150+ strong but are certainly harder to see than the Galapagos as the visibility is not as crystal clear but I suspect part of the reason everything here is large is simply the large volume of nutrients in the water. Huge Galapagos sharks & even the Silky Sharks are huge in comparison, more Moray Eels than you can shake a stick at. Whalesharks in season but can turn up anytime and we saw a couple on our trip and a massive Swordfish which are not even really known in the waters here, Mobula Rays and on most dives we saw some Eagle Rays. There is even some really nice small stuff in the rocks, some corals and in tunnels but you tend to overlook these as the large life is so abundant. And if you are amazingly lucky (as we were) the chance to see the Small Tooth Sand Tiger Shark (Ferox) a pregnant monster at 5 metres for us. Colombia A wonderful country and doesn’t deserve the reputation is has, I did 5 extra days on my trip. 2 in Bogota (City tour inc Monserrat plus Zipaquira/Guatavita , 2 Cali (City tour and Park Fallones) & 1 Cartegena. I hired local guides to make the most of my time and ensure I took in all the sites, it helped they were bi-lingual too, they were all excellent Vibrant, scenic, lush, stunning Vistas and lots of ancient history to enjoy - 5 days was only a taster
  2. Hi I'm using mine behind a Zen DP 170 N85 ii with my OMD EM10, I already had this port which I use with the 12-40mm Olympus and it seems to work ok, I did not want to splash out on the N120 system which needs an extension etc. Corner sharpness is an issue at 8mm but as I do it fun I'm not too bothered really Few pics from the usual dark and gloomy UK lakes
  3. Where is it... 1,000 miles off the coast of Africa, a very new destination circa 5 hours flying from J'Burg (until recently it was 5 days on a boat!) An excellent dive centre run by Anthony (sub-tropic adventures), very knowledgeable on the fish life below and wildlife above - nothing is too much trouble. Totally professional, I did take my own kit but used their BCD which was in great condition, the rest of the gear used by others was in good condition too. I’d recommend a 6.5mm suit or similar, I used a 5mm with 0.5mm rash vest under and a light 1mm hood (was comfortable on dives with this but slightly chilly by the end of dive 2) There was some gentle current at times but the beauty of having sites all round the island means there is always somewhere to dive when it is windy, lumpy or currents or stronger as you simply go to the other side/end. All the Dives were well guided and as you would expect from such a remote destination very small groups and no other divers at the sites. The whole island is dive-able so there are certainly more sites than time available. There are 2 Dive centres but all the time I was here the other seemed to be focused on running the Whale shark snorkelling trips and for that reason alone I would use Sub- Tropic, intimate knowledge of sites comes through being in water regularly. Sub Tropic is well used by the local residents and it was nice to chat to them on the rib, most days there was me or 1/2 others diving The diving here is Sub Tropical so whilst you won’t get the density of life you see at the equator I thought the amount of fish here was the best I have seen anywhere outside the equatorial zone, it kind of reminded of the diving in the Azores but was definitely fishier! Of course at the right time of year (Jan - Mar) the real stand out is the Whale Sharks (7-8 metres right up to 14metres) , you have to be lucky for them to pass by while diving but they are regularly seen on the snorkelling trips at the surface.*(so do a few of these) So many shoals of fish and they seem more inquisitive than elsewhere in the world, probably due to the lack of divers. Huge shoals of Butterfly Fish, Sergeant Fish that come right up to you as well as large Jacks, Cowfish, Triggerfish, Moray Eels, Octopus & Lobsters (the most I have seen anywhere) endemic Flame Back Angel Fish, Devil Rays, Wrecks, the odd Turtle and if you are extremely lucky Seahorse and Frog Fish Make sure you do a Dolphin trip too, there is a pod of Pan Tropical 300-400 strong as well a Ragged Tooth Dolphins and Bottlenose Booking Either book through an agent or do as I did and sort it yourself as it is very easy. Once I had booked the flights Anthony at Sub Tropic sorted my accommodation, pick up and diving (and all my other trips while I was out there) I stayed at the Townhouse B&B - excellent and see my Tripadvisor review for more detail As to trips I found it far better to book direct with the operator rather than go through the tourist office, one less party to mix things up If you book ahead with SA Link you can get an extra 15kg of sports luggage allowance - persist as when I phoned them they told me to sort at check which is definitely wrong Full break down of trip BA flight to J’burg from Heathrow was very good, I came out a day early in case my luggage was delayed as there is only 1 flight a week to St Helena (+ mid week Tuesday in peak season now), it also gave me a chance to nip down to Cape Town. In hindsight a combi of a week in SA and a week in St Helena would be perfect (or even Namibia) I stayed 2 nights in the City Lodge Hotel OR Tambo which is perfect, 3 minutes walk from arrivals and importantly you don’t need to leave the airport. Day 1 (Thur) Overnight flight to J’Burg and the rest of the day by the pool chilling and swimming (ate in the airport as it is so close) Day 2 (Fri) Flight to Cape Town and back (5.30am out and 19.00 back), I used African Blue Tours who where superb. A very long day but well worth it - Table Mountain, Chapman’s Drive, Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope, Boulder Beach & the penguins and a drive round the vineyards on the way back to the airport Day 3 (Sat) 9.00 am flight to St Helena with a brief stop in Namibia to refuel (only required on the way out) such a shame you can’t hop on and off here Landing in St Helena was fine and the English Press (as usual) have made it more dramatic than it is, a real shame as I suspect it has deters some much needed tourists. All islands in my experience have their unique issues and there are many other airports worldwide that can experience wind sheer. Planes still land in the UK when it is very windy! Picked up by Anthony of Sub Tropic Diving who arranged everything on island seamlessly for me, my primary reason for the visit is diving and seeing the adult Whale-sharks but I ended up doing so much more.... I stayed at the Townhouse B&B run by Colin & Marlene, a lovely couple and welcome to their accommodation (see review under their hotel entry in Trip advisor) In my view the best accommodation in Jamestown unless you want luxury or to splash on the Mantis but then you would miss out on the local experience you get at the Townhouse Once unpacked straight into it with a walk up Jacob’s Ladder (699 steps!) once at the top admire the views then 100 yards beyond the top on the left is Rosie’s for a well deserved coffee or homemade ice cream (not signposted but easy to find) Dinner that evening was Ann’s place, good value - a lovely fresh Tuna steak, salad & fries plus a beer for £10 Day 4 (Sun) 2 dives in the morning, the first was particularly good, endemic Flame Back Angel Fish, huge shoals of Butterfly Fish and some large Jacks following us for the whole dive A quick Toastie at the Coffee Shop and then out to snorkel with Whale Sharks You must do this, saw3 good sized Whale Sharks about 7-10 metres Finished the afternoon off with a stroll from Jamestown to the Heart-shaped Waterfall, a good couple of hours but some great views of Jamestown and you can finish with a well deserved beer and meal at Ann’s place Day 5 (Mon) 2 dives to start the day again, Long Ledge was particularly good, lots of fish life and really interesting under water geology including a nice swim through / cavern Quick lunch and then out snorkelling with Whale-sharks, go as often as you can, it is amazing and there aren’t many places in the world where they are this large A late afternoon stroll up to the top of Mundens Hill, a good walk and nice to see the old gun emplacements and look outs (there is so much history here) Day 6 (Tues) A long walk along the cliffs to Banks Batteries at Flagstaff, 2.5-3 hours if you’re fit! The views are stunning and interesting to see the old history, I stood and watched a pod of dolphins make their way by too. (this really should be a Post Box walk) 2 afternoon dives - Bennett’s and Horse Pasture Lots of nice swim throughs and caverns, an abundance of fish as usual especially around the caverns. The playing of the light through these is superb and mesmerising. Numerous octopus, a few moray and loads of Lobsters - the most I have seen in all my dives across the world and a sign their sustainable policy is working. Dinner again at Ann’s place, the fresh tuna is simply superb. Day 7 (Wed) A visit to see the super pod of Pan Tropical Dolphins (300-400) on the way to the dive site-not many places in the world where you can see this many in one pod Note - Anthony runs this trip along with Bird Trips for non divers too, you can also see 2 other types of Dolphin too if lucky and even Whales at the right time of year Frontier Wreck, a lovely dive with plenty of fish life and we were treated with a swim by Ragged Tooth Dolphins and a Devil Ray Lighter Rock, the profusion of life here was astounding, thousands of Butterfly Fish Ragged Tooth Dolphins swimming by again, it is pretty rare to see them underwater Lunch at one of the various cafes An afternoon off visiting the museum (free but please leave a tip which helps fund it) and another climb up Jacobs Ladder with an ice cream at Rosie’s as a reward at the top Day 8 (Thur) The last 3 dives Boys Valley and another near Banks Battery in the morning, arches and small cavern(s) Thousands of juvenile Butterfly Fish, lots of triggers, Octopus, Moray, loads of Soldierfish and Snapper too as usual. An old Cannon from years ago on the seabed. Late afternoon dive on the Bedgellet Wreck and we were treated to a few passes by a large Devil Ray Lunch - Fishcakes at the Coffee Shop on the harbour front and their St Helena coffee is good, very mellow and you must buy some to take home especially if you look how much it costs in Harrod’s! Thursday night is movie night at the harbour front played on a large screen and there are great pizzas available from Get Carters adjacent-order early or in advance Day 9 (Fri) A day of sightseeing, booked a guide for the day and did the usual but it would be just as easy to hire a car (£20!) how lost can you get on such a small island. Started with a good look round High Knoll Fort, then onto Plantation House (Governor's residence) you can book a private tour of the house in advance which gets you closer to the Tortoises. Up next was Napoleon's Grave followed by Longwood House (Napoleon's residence) Take your passport to the gift shop at Longwood and they stamp it for £1 Finished off by walk up and over the highest point Diana’s Peak, fantastic views on a clear day and lovely spot to stop and eat a packed lunch or afternoon snack Evening was a Hog Roast at Ann’s which is very popular with everyone so book early, a great night out Day 10 ☹️ Flights out to J’Burg and overnight in City Lodge again Day 11 Most flights do not leave until 20.00-21.00 so that gives you a whole day, Pilanesburg Safari Park is just over 2 hours drive and has the Big 5 so why not... I used Pilanesburg Safaris and Tours who were fantastic, 5.30am pick up in hotel reception arrived there at 8.00 and drove around the park until 2.30 with a takeaway lunch from the restaurant in the middle of the park to maximise our time. Back at the airport in good time for check in at 17.00. The game were scarce on my day but I still saw White & Black Rhino, Elephants, Hippos, Hyena, Zebra, Springbok, Birds and much more Booking Either book through an agent or do as I did and sort it yourself as it is very easy. Once I had booked the flights to St Helena Anthony at Sub Tropics sorted my accommodation, pick up and diving As to trips I found it far better to book direct with the operator rather than go through the tourist office, one less party to mix things up. All of the South Africa end I booked direct with the hotel or tours - no fuss and very easy to do Weather It was 21-25 degrees every day and typically was cloudy in the morning with an odd break before clearing and being much sunnier in the afternoon. To be honest you don’t want it too sunny and hot as most activities here involve exercise Other WiFi is not free but at £3.30 for every half hour not too expensive and how much do you need your phone here anyway! It was good enough for me to use ‘Face-time’ back to home in the UK
  4. I've found previous posts on trips very useful so thought I'd share my recent trip Trip Overview KLM flight from Norwich to Guayaquil via Amsterdam, note the plane stops in Quito on the way then it's a short hop to Guayaquil, this is better as the Galapagos connection goes via Guayaquil anyway so there's no benefit to staying in Quito which is also at altitude. (tip-if you fancy splurging then see if there's a deal to upgrade to business at the Amsterdam transfer desk, you may be able get a deal on a late upgrade) Spending a full day in Guayaquil is recommended as it helps you get into the time zone (also if your luggage gets delayed by 1 day like mine was you have a bit more leeway). I had an enjoyable day wandering the city, the Malecon walk along the river is good and there is also a small free park with Iguanas adjacent to a fantastic Cathedral. Stayed the 2 nights at Hotel Oro Verde, great hotel with a fantastic choice for breakfast; the other real bonus here is the great Wifi which made FaceTime home very easy. The boat stops in Santa Cruz on the last day after the diving has ended and I highly recommend jumping ship there and extending your stay for 3 or so days to do some land tours rather than overnight back to San Cristobal for the flight home I did the Plaza tour and Santa Fe tour, both were very similar and if I chose again I would only do Santa Fe, on both tours we saw similar; I would replace one with North Seymour which has a larger breeding colony of Boobies. Note the tours seem to consist of circa 1.5 hours on the island & always a snorkelling trip so if like me you've been diving for a week try and get a tour without this! Isabela Island is highly recommended by most travellers I met if you can spare the 2-3 days needed to get over there and sightsee Diving Overview Experience of current diving, negative entries and backward rolls from pandas (ribs) are essential. Nitrox certified whilst not essential given how far you are from the nearest recompression chamber is highly advised especially with up to 4 dives per day, also makes it easier for the crew refilling cylinders as they only have 1 gas to contend with. You do feel an element of responsibility toward the whole group as any incident up at Wolf/Darwin would effectively wipe out 2 full days of diving for everyone. Water temperatures range from 17 to 22 degrees (at least 3 dives were 17 degrees for the full 45 minutes). Dives are limited to 45-50 minutes which works well as that generally ensures the whole group (max 8 per DM) ascends at the same time. I used a 6.5mm semi dry in May for every dive with Lavacore hood & gloves (mainly for holding on to rocks in the current) and nearly all the other divers used similar protection or 2 piece wetsuits, don't underestimate the cold as you can be stationery for some time. Galapagos Sky Boat Fantastic service, the food is extremely good and evening meals are not repetitive, the crew work extremely hard to make sure you have a great experience and the camaraderie between them is obvious and makes for a great week. After every dive there are dry towels, a hot shower available on the dive deck and one of the crew waiting with a hot drink and home-made nibbles! The Diving Truly amazing, the Galápagos exceeds expectations; after the week we tried to come up with our number 1 experience and failed, there were 5-6 outstanding moments and everything else wasn't too bad either. 19 dives in all including 1 night dive with 11 of them at Wolf & Darwin, these 2 islands are the main reason for going and stand head & shoulders above the other dives. Always luck of the draw but we saw over 20 hammerheads in one school, loads of Galápagos Sharks, Silkies, a 10 metre Whaleshark, massive shoals of tuna & jacks being fed on, snorkelling with dolphins. The other highlights were Red Lipped Bat Fish, Marine Iguanas, Rays, 1 Mola Mola and interactions with Sea Lions. Safety was taken very seriously with comprehensive briefs and all divers issued with GPS trackers and air horns that attach to your bcd hose The crew and dive guides often went the extra mile with little things such as the snorkelling with Dolphins & Silky sharks and a panga ride to some caves, though we were blessed with some pretty calm seas making this possible. I suspect this isn't offered on every trip as it depends on the crew and importantly the nature / behaviour of the guests towards them. You also get a tour to see the Giant Tortoises and Bartolome island which are both well worth it. Go Pros were used by a number of the group and I would certainly look to take one in the future on the top of my camera housing as the majority of the fish / marine life can be fast moving, my EM10 with 12-40mm lens coped well & was a good compromise as I did not think very wide angel was needed often, managed to get some reasonable shots (for me anyway) Small Negative The only minor niggle in my opinion is the implied 10% tip, whilst I recognise this is apparently industry norm I’d suggest the majority of live-aboards cost nowhere near as much and tipping is so subjective (why tip in one area of industry but not another?)
  5. Hi All, Just made the jump to micro four thirds in the last year and found these forums very worthwhile so thought I'd join up to share some experiences
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