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Lionfi2s

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Lionfi2s last won the day on January 1

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About Lionfi2s

  • Rank
    Sting Ray

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Arab Emirates
  • Camera Model & Brand
    RX100 mk IV
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sealife 2xSeadragon 2k lm

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  1. We are on the same boat here Thani, but it is highly unlikely. First you would need another recorder to capture BRAW the Ninja wont do it. Then Resolve doesn't look likely to support Prores Raw in the near future. FCPX is really an amateur software when it comes to color grading compared to Resolve and Resolve upgrades have made it a very capable all in one solution. For the time being the only solution seems to be doing the initial adjustment on the Prores RAW file to one of the apps that support it (FCPX or Scratch) and then export a Prores 4444 file to work with in Resolve. Not the most efficient solution but does the job.
  2. They most probably haven't tried to do it while carrying a scooter and 3 stages :))) But it's a good exercise to kill time in deco Davide
  3. The GH5s Prores raw update seems the most interesting to me. GH5mkII i don't see a real value for people doing mostly video to upgrade. Gh6 I would rather wait to see the final product and then decide whether it is worth it or not. At the moment I just ordered a Gh5s. Having a ninja V already made it a somehow easy (-er) decision. I am very curious to see the difference between the GH5 mkI and GH5s shooting the same scene the same day initially on Panasonic all-i codec.
  4. Slightly off topic but what f-stop did you use on these shots? Many of them are really soft on the corners and trying to understand whether it is that the lights are not strong enough and so you had to open the aperture or it is camera/lens/dome issue. Thanks
  5. I might be a bit absolute but... you pay peanuts you get monkeys I have a pair of Divepro 18K and a pair of Keldan 4 the 7k lumen edition. The Divepro are nowhere near the Keldans in terms of usability, construction quality, and light quality. We all tend to focus on light output ignoring the fact that power is nothing without control. The divepro one button system is practically useless and offers only 3 modes Off, full power, 50 percent. Yes they do have a punch on full power but light quality is nothing like the Keldan. The edges are harsh and the lighting looks unnatural compared to the gradual drop off and soft light of the Keldans. The construction quality is day and night. The o-rings on the Divepros are so thin and fragile that you really have to be careful every time you remove or install the battery, same goes with the threads in the battery body and the light-head you really must be careful anytime you install the battery. Keldans on the other hand are made to last. I ve dropped them down several times and had no problem at all. I ended up using the Dive pro as offboard lights handing them over to a light diver or putting them on Joby Gorilla pod tripods. Spending mega $$$ on camera, lenses, housings, water optics/domes and then try to save on the most important element is in my opinion not the best tactic. And as R4E said deco is very boring to spend it looking at badly lighted shots :)))
  6. Behind the mask / you tube vlog style. Catchy...nice for a trailer to draw attention... not my favorite though. The other video is much better the game between light and shadow and the lights placement are excellent and for sure took time and effort to plan and execute. Kudos for that. And definitely desaturated in post, caves don't look like that through a camera.
  7. Crotch or butt d-ring are not a viable option because then the camera hangs below/behind you with no control. Crotch d-ring can be a temporary storing option if you are not using a dpv and you are midwater but again not really the best place. Options are left shoulder d-ring (can be problematic if you are carrying more deco stages and have to do gas switches or move tanks) or right shoulder d-ring. If you are trained in longhose management then there is no problem in deployment while having a camera there, you just have to make sure that the camera lanyard is long enough to allow you to push the camera under your arm but not too long to allow the camera to move around too much. In the picture you can see what I use. Gives me plenty of options to handle the camera. Happy to explain more if you want.
  8. Whatever you do make sure you get trained on how to manage the longhose. I recently had the experience of watching two divers using a longhose to share gas (one of them was low on gas) without knowing how to properly use it and it was not a nice sight. Take a fundamentals class it will transform your diving no matter what stage you are in your diving. You can do a fundamentals part 1 course which is more about personal skills (trim, buoyancy, equipment set up, longhose management etc) and then decide for yourself if you want to continue and complete it by taking part 2. Most people I know do continue in the end. Your benefits from the course will be far more than just managing the longhose. Fine tuning your trim, buoyancy and propulsion will offer a lot in you video/photo game as well. PS: No, the picture is not how you properly manage a longhose
  9. For anyone interested the Nauticam housing for the Atomos Shinobi monitor is now avalaible.
  10. Thats is strange. Anyway here is a link with photos https://1drv.ms/u/s!AumJI_6jIwvKxHOw-dQVpAM3ApH4?e=bNqSMA
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