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stuartv

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stuartv last won the day on April 6 2021

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About stuartv

  • Rank
    Sting Ray

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lexington, SC

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony a7r IV, Olympus OM-D E-M10
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam, Meikon
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240 Type 3
  • Accessories
    Nauticam WWL-1

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  1. Awesome! Thank you! I will watch and try it out and let you know how I fare.
  2. I'm just checking in here. Still hoping for some help with this.
  3. Thank you! I was shooting a Sony a7rIV in a Nauticam housing, with a Nauticam WWL-1 on the front. The camera lens was either a Sony 28mm f/2, or a Sony 28-60 f/4-5.6, just depending on the day. Usually, I just use the 28-60, but for a couple of days during that trip I wanted to experiment with shooting some ambient light stuff and using big apertures, so I used the 28mm f/2.
  4. Just checking in. Still hoping for some help here.
  5. I have the UTW trigger in my a7rIV housing. That is what I'm trying to make work. I have another thread going on here where Pavel is now trying to help me.
  6. I have never used TTL. Always full Manual. Recently, I have been trying to figure out how to get TTL to work with my rig, but haven't actually used it yet. Thanks for the explanation on a use for ND diffusers.
  7. The trigger box says "# 11075-HSS" I actually have 2 sets of fiber optic cables that I can use. One set is Sea&Sea Fiber-Optic Cable II M/2 (product # 50128). https://www.seaandsea.jp/products/strobe/accessory/020.html#50128 The other is a brand new set of Backscatter Universal Fiber Optic Cable with attachments for Nauticam and Inon (product bs-foc). https://www.backscatter.com/Backscatter-Universal-Fiber-Optic-Cable The Backscatter cables and connectors are what is currently on the camera and shown in the attached picture. This setup worked just fine all last week while shooting in the North Carolina Wreck Shark Shootout, so I don't think there is any problem with the strobes or cables. You can see in the other photo that I have been getting the light I wanted, from both strobes. But that was all in strictly Manual mode. The question is what are all the necessary and correct settings to use manual shutter, aperture, and ISO, while having TTL control the strobes firing.
  8. UWT 11075 TTL converter for Sony Sea & Sea fiber optic cables, L-type, 18 inch Camera is a Sony a7rIV Strobes are Inon Z330 Type 2 Thank you!
  9. I was really hoping @Pavel Kolpakov would chime in here and tell me the exact settings on the a7rIV and the Z330 in order for TTL to work with the UWT trigger. The info posted in this thread directly contradicts what the UWT manual says and none of it seems to work for me. But, also, I am doing all my testing on land. Maybe that is a problem also, but I really would like to get into the water knowing what my settings are SUPPOSED to be in order for TTL to work - not getting in to test all these different combinations of settings.
  10. @ChrisRoss, I changed to WL Flash Off, as @Barmaglot suggested. Camera flash is set to "Fill". SS is 1/200. It sure seems like I can detect a double flash now. But, TTL still doesn't seem to work right. However, it's weird. I have both my strobes set the same (Mode on STTL, Power straight up). Magnets in or out does not seem to make any difference on either strobe. I'm shooting at f/8 and ISO 400, then changing to f/16 and ISO 100. Shooting the light switch on the wall 3 or 4 feet in front of my camera, and comparing the exposure between the 2 combos of settings. When I do it with one strobe, one setting gives a good exposure and the other is blown out. When I do the shot with the other strobe, one setting gives a good exposure and the other is very dark. The fact that through all this it seems like my magnets being in or out doesn't make any difference. That has me wondering if I need to backup up a step and make sure the magnet switches actually work like they're supposed to. The strobes are brand new, so I have been assuming they do, but maybe not... To test the magnets, correct me if I'm wrong: Camera flash: WL Flash On. Camera flash mode: Fill Camera mode: M Strobe mode: M Take a picture with the magnet out: Picture should be dark, as strobe should not fire (expecting a pre-flash that never happens) Take a picture with the magnet in: Picture should be bright, as strobe should fire on the one and only trigger flash Correct?
  11. I can run them on Manual, as I have been. I just WANT to experiment with TTL. I could do what you said - moving back and forth. But, what I'm doing is changing between f/8 and ISO 400 and f/16 and ISO 100. Shouldn't that have the same effect? If TTL is working, then both combos should result in the same exposure. That is, of course, presuming that my subject is lit so that both combos CAN produce a good exposure by just varying the flash. Yes, that was my point. It does SEEM like I am getting a constant flash. The manual for the UWT specifically says to put the magnets in for TTL shooting. That seems wrong, to me. I do not have access to a flash meter.
  12. Also, I just consulted the UWT manual for the trigger. I found that there is a Z330 setting, which is position 6. I changed mine from 1 to 6. Per the manual, I also pushed the magnets on the strobes in and locked them down, set the mode knob to STTL, and confirmed I had the power knob set correctly. WL Flash On, Silent Shooting Off, e-Front Curtain Shutter Off. Distance to subject, 3 - 4 feet (>1m). It still does not seem to use TTL at all. The strobes fire, but I can't detect any pre-flash. Only 1 flash at all. When I set the camera to f/8 and ISO 400, the result it totally overexposed. When I set it to f/16 and ISO 100, the result is a little underexposed. All with SS of 1/200.
  13. I failed to mention, but yes, my power dial was set to the neutral position during all my testing. I should also add at no time during any of what I have done could I detect that the strobes did 2 flashes (i.e. a pre-flash and then a real flash). My camera flash setting is set to "Fill". I guess I should add that setting to the list of things I'm asking about for what they should be set to in order to have the camera/trigger control the strobe using TTL.
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