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stuartv last won the day on January 3 2020

stuartv had the most liked content!

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About stuartv

  • Rank
    Sting Ray

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  • Location
    Manassas, VA

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony a7r IV, Olympus OM-D E-M10
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam, Meikon
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240 Type 3
  • Accessories
    Nauticam WWL-1

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  1. That is awesome info. Thanks for doing that test. I don't think my UWT trigger for the a7rIV has a problem with shooting at MID, but I will have to try it again and see.
  2. Why does it matter if there is a native fisheye available? If there is a fisheye option that gives just as good performance as you'd expect from a native option (i.e. equal IQ and AF performance), what does it matter that it doesn't say "Sony" on it? I don't think I understand what you're saying here. Are you being specific to Canon? You said "on full frame it is not possible to have alternative to the WACP". But, any Sony FF (i.e. a7 or a9 series) can use the Sony 28-60 lens with the WWL-1 fully and effectively, yes?
  3. Sorry to dredge this up from the distant history of a week ago. I was out diving. I found the explanation I was looking for regarding TTL here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Through-the-lens_metering Apparently, my understanding of TTL comes from back when I was in high school (in the 80s) and learned film photography and darkroom work then. It seems that, in modern parlance, TTL means the same thing it did back then, but isn't viewed the same way because of the change in capabilities brought in by modern cameras. Technically, TTL means Through-The-Lens and it applies equally to any time you're shooting where the camera is doing metering and setting any part of the exposure - whether you're using a flash or not. If you're shooting a modern DSLR or MILC in Manual mode, with no flash at all, but using AutoISO, then the camera is still metering the scene "through the lens" and determining what to set the ISO value to. Technically, that is still TTL. The only time it is not TTL shooting is when you're explicitly setting the SS, the A, the ISO, and the flash power (if using flashes). But, evidently, in modern usage, the way TTL works with flashes is different than it was for analog SLRs, so the usage has change connotations to be specific to digital flash photography. Thus my confusion and point I made to clarify what was said in the video, for people whose understanding of the term TTL predates modern digital cameras.
  4. From a prior post, it sounded like the a7c w/28-60 and housing would be right in the same ballpark as a (crop sensor) Z50... A prior post also mentioned the high MP count of the a7rIV and pointed out that the 28-60 w/WWL-1 will work with that (or any other a7-series) camera. It is more money than the a7c, but I have found the high MP count of the a7rIV to be VERY useful to me for getting photos without a macro setup that would have otherwise required a macro setup. Having 61MP to crop from can be VERY handy. Alternatively, switching the camera to APS-C mode, to yield a net effect of 1.5X the focal length, still produces 26MP images. The rIV housing is bigger than the a7c housing. But, the port and WWL-1 is still all the same size. If my rig were stolen and I had to buy al new, I would still (just me, personally) go with a little bigger size and a bit more money to have the rIV with its higher MP count. If, for some reason, I really felt a need to have a smaller package, I would definitely go with the a7c setup over any crop sensor setup. The Sony 28-60 lens plus the WWL-1 and a CMC-1 (or CMC-2) - as a kit - does not get AS wide as a true wide angle setup with a big dome. And it does not work for AS small macro stuff as a true macro setup. But, it will go from "pretty small" to "pretty wide" and all points in between quite well. That is good enough for me - especially for flying to travel.
  5. Interesting! Where is the a7-series deficient in lens choices? Non-native fisheye? I think i've read that criticism. Is there no alternative lens that can be used effectively for that? Are there other lenses missing from the catalog of what you'd consider "necessary" for u/w shooting? How is the D500 autofocus better than the AF on any of the current models of the a7-series? Yours is the first comment I've seen that any 5-year old camera body has better AF than any of the latest a7 lineup. I usually see Sony a7 AF touted as market-leading. Is the D500 AF faster? More accurate? More flexible in some way that makes it more useful underwater?
  6. Thanks, Adam. Having watched that, I have a couple of comments. One, it seemed like you and Alex went through that whole webcast talking about TTL with the unspoken presumption that you're specifically talking about TTL for strobe exposure control. To the new u/w photographer who doesn't really know about TTL and is trying to learn, I'm not sure it would be clear that the term TTL also applies to camera (vs strobe) exposure control when shooting in P, A, S, or even M, if you're using AutoISO. So, this webcast really does not give them a complete understanding of TTL in u/w photography, but only a view into using it specifically for strobe exposure control, with full manual control of all the other exposure settings. And, two, Adam, during the 'cast you had a throwaway line that "your camera doesn't know what your subject is." I don't think I agree with that. When I'm shooting birds, whether in Spot w/tracking or Wide or Zone focus area, my camera does know (or figure out) what my subject is. And it does the same underwater. So, with regard to TTL, the camera does seem to have the ability to know or figure out what the subject is and, thus, use TTL to meter to expose the subject correctly. Of course, that is provided the camera setting for metering mode is set appropriately, and that the strobes are positioned appropriately.
  7. Exactly the point. Newer cameras - possibly in conjunction with the latest TTL-capable flash triggers - may possibly do a much better job than older cameras. I don't know about other or older cameras, but I know that my camera has a Spot metering mode and a setting to lock the spot where it meters to the spot where the camera is focused. So, in theory, I can use a Focus Area of Spot w/Tracking, and lock onto the shark's eye. Then, the camera can use TTL control for the strobes to meter the exposure specifically for that area of the shark's head. On paper, that seems like it would work pretty well. As for repeatability - I'll flip that one back to you. The point is having strobe metering for a dynamic environment, where the conditions ARE changing from moment to moment. So, I would not want repeatability in the sense of the same exposure and strobe settings on every shot. I WANT the strobe power to change (in a "smart" way) as the subject distance/size, orientation, and framing changes. Totally understood. But, I am much more likely to be able to reach out and quickly tweak a strobe's position, while maintaining my ability to capture the moment than I am to reach out and quickly adjust my strobes' power quickly. in other words, it's clearly not ideal to use TTL to control strobe exposure, for shooting a subject swimming by - from far to near to far again. But, it also seems much better (at least, potentially) than trying to shoot a subject swimming by using fully manual strobe control. Have any of you actually done any experimenting personally with shooting with TTL for strobe exposure control, using fiber optic triggering? (I mean to sort of leave out discussion of older systems and older tech, and try to concentrate on current stuff that the average enthusiast might buy today)
  8. Understood about pushing them on dry land. Any time you have a chance in the water is GREAT by me. I'm not in a huge rush to spend $2500 on new strobes....
  9. Good job! I learned something new. I have only ever shot in (fully) Manual mode. I had never thought through the difference between using S and using A modes (with strobes). One of Alex's comments gave me pause to think it through and realize that using A mode does mean just what Alex said - you can set the A that you want and you can adjust your strobes to the level you want and leave them there. Whatever SS the camera chooses only affects the exposure of the background. It doesn't really affect what is illuminated by the strobes. Interesting thought. One thing that Alex mentioned is that newer cameras have an AutoISO option. That is good. I use that frequently for land photography. But, one phrase I never heard mentioned through the whole talk (though I could have just missed it) is "TTL". I realize TTL doesn't need much talking about for the camera exposure settings, really. But, even newer than AutoISO (I think?) is the ability to use TTL solely to control the strobes, via fiber optic cables (as most people use who would be the target audience for this webcast). I don't have much experience with it yet (though my initial trial seems promising), but it seems like the ability to use TTL control for just the strobes, while shooting with the rest of the exposure settings on Manual could be very handy. You can use M mode to set SS, A, and ISO, to get the background color you want, the DOF you want, and the lowest ISO that permits those other things, and then use TTL for flash control to let the camera meter the intended subject and control the strobes for the "right" exposure. Especially is you use Spot Metering and lock the metering spot to the focus spot. My suspicion is that when you have a subject like a shark swimming past you, letting TTL control the flash to burn longer when the shark is further way, but then a shorter burn time when it has gotten closer will substantially increase the "keeper" rate. I would definitely be interested to hear your thoughts and experiences on this subject.
  10. He's talking about a WACP. That's $4500. $4500 + 1500 from selling the D500 will get you an a7c, a WWL-1, and probably a housing and some other stuff, too.
  11. Or sell the D500 rig and get a Sony a7c and WWL-1. You could probably do that and net out for less money than buying a WACP, and have a more travel-friendly rig, in the process.
  12. Is it the version for DSLR or the version for Mirrorless?
  13. That is awesome that the RPs can do 1/4 power at 3-4fps. Any chance you could test them at 6fps and see what power level you can use? Even for just a 1 - 2 second burst? I'm asking about 6fps because my camera is "up to" 3fps on Lo and "up to" 6fps on Mid. I would love to learn if the RP w/Supercharger can handle 6fps and at what power level. I'd guess a full 2 second burst is probably the most I would ever shoot it for without pausing at least for a short time.
  14. I guess it just depends on how long he wants to wait.
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