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Mehmet Gungen

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About Mehmet Gungen

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  • Birthday 10/04/1967

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  • Gender
  • Interests
    Travelling, Photography, Hard Rock & Heavy Metal Concerts, Drones

Additional Info

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D850
  • Camera Housing
    Subal ND80
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240 x 2, Ikelite DS125x2, SS200 & DS50, Ultralight Arms
  • Accessories
    Nikon 8-15mm, 16-35mm, 60mm, 105mm (many others lenses above water or that were used with the DX kit)

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  1. Thank you for valuable information. I bought Hollis F1 Lt in XXL size. Most probably largest foot pocket among all fins in the market. Lighter than original F1 which is preferable for travel. Also sizewise a bit smaller than original F1. I hope i ll like them when i ll have chance to try in water
  2. Hi, I am practicing drysuit diving. I have a DUI drysuit and DUI Rock boots. I was surprised to find out that none of the fins i use while diving with wetsuits fit to DUI Rock boots. (https://www.divedui.com/pages/step-7-select-your-drysuit-boot-style The ones on the top of the age in the link provided. ) I understand that i need to buy one of the heavy rubber fin models. Such fins are manufactured by different brands and are available for different price levels. I would appreciate to hear any recommendations from the ones who are diving with similar configuration.
  3. Dear Joss Just now read the thread. It looks like many WP members are using AF-S like myself. There are many different ideas concerning AF. I personally believe that i need at least to try using full features of the camera in order to justify buying an expensive toy for myself as a replacement of my D7100. Now i want to download the E-book as well. I watched the video introduction. Seems very promising. Thank you very much for your valuable advice. Best regards Mehmet
  4. I have been shooting with Nikon DSLR’s since D70. I used D200, D300s, D7100 and finally switched to D850. Even though my current camera is a sophisticated one I sometimes feel like I am not using the full potential of it since mostly I am shooting with the D850 the way I used to shoot with my D70. In saying this one of my major concern is the autofocus system while shooting macro. I used to use single servo auto focus after moving the single focus point on a desired location within the viewfinder and to refocus to the eye every time while I press the shutter release button. However while doing this I also have to move the camera together with the moving fish so that I have the single focus point on fish’s eye. For me this technique works. However I have some shots with better background composition but lacking focus. Whereas some shots with worse background but pin-sharp focus. Shooting anemone fish is a typical example what I am trying to describe above. The D850 is supposed to have one of the most advanced autofocus systems. I have been reading that many UW photographers are using the camera in Full time servo AF mode with continuous tracking of the subject. I read the thick manual several times and tried with different settings in different dives however could not find out the optimum setup for continuous AF tracking while shooting macro. In my experience the auto tracking system not always locked on the eye but to some other parts of the fish. There are several sub-settings of focus tracking such as single point, dynamic area(9, 25, 72, 153 points), 3d and group AF. Some of these choices also have some sub-settings. For instance 3d has normal and wide etc. I would appreciate to hear the autofocus setup other users of D850 are using while shooting moving macro objects like anemone fish.(not supermacro which is a totally different issue) Best regards Mehmet
  5. I use nightsea excitation filters with my Inon Z240's. When i ordered the Z330 via internet my aim was to use it as third strobe for fluo dives. Unfortunately i was totally unaware that they have spherical glass. When i asked Backscatter.com about availability of nightsea filter for Inon Z330 in december i was answered that these filters shall be available in 2020. I believe logically their price should be more or less in the same level as filters for Z240.
  6. I procured my housing with the TTL V3 Circuit for Nikon. Even though i never used TTL underwater. Just in case to have it as an option. For me this circuit is for translating the electrical impulse from camera hotshoe to optical signal by lighting two led's on the housing front. After this incident i changed my circuit with a new one and also obtained an early version of subal circuits which only transfers the electrical signal from camera hotshoe to two bulkheads. Since it is very simple i think it will hardly get broken. I think it is a good B plan provided that one has to has the cables (in addition to optical fiber cords)
  7. Yes, this is the best part. In the future i shall be travelling with a spare electronic circuit(which can purely fire strobes with wire connection) and with this snoot torch.(in addition to all other spare stuff i have been carrying)
  8. Hyp, I agree that it is not the ideal option for sure. But a tiny but torch with ability to illuminate a small area with high intensity and a camera with good high ISO performance can be a good B Plan for macro and supermacro.
  9. I remember that in the past i read several articles in which it was explained that even a powerful torch could hardly provide as much light a strobe provides within 1/1000 of a second or so. Thus torches not being an option for photography. Two weeks ago during my stay in Bali i had a minor leak in my housing which was detected by the housing leak detector. I was at approximately 20 meters when this happened. I immediately cancelled dive and surfaced. In order to prevent a camera damage i was holding my 105mm macro port down. I realised on the way to surface my Inon's connected to housing via optical fiber cords were firing all the time. I immediately opened housing cleaned and dried everything. However i realised that the electronic circuit in the housing was not lighting the led's for optical cords. Thus the strobes were not firing. I also tried alternative wire connection between housing bulkhead and strobes. However this also did not work. I had spare strobe, spare optical cords, wire connection for a failure of the optical cord etc. The only spare i did not have was the electronic circuit which was damaged. I still had more than a week of dives and i was left without strobes. I had a very sceptical mood when Graham Abbott(Diving4images) who arranged my dives and have been my guide in Bali told me that the worse case option would be the use of torch. The same day as a coincidence at the dive site we have met Ajiex Dharma who told us that he could supply one Minigear MS-03 snoot torch. The next day in the morning i was diving with this tiny torch as my main light source. After the first dive i understood that it would be more practical for me to use the torch either attached to a gorillapod 5K or hand held by Graham. My camera is a Nikon D850. In order to be able to freeze the movement i shot all my photos both macro and supermacro(105mm lens with +5 /+10 wet diopters) with high ISO values such as 1000 - 1250. With these ISO values i was able to shoot 1/160 - 1/320 with diaphragms from f/16 to f/32. To my surprise, I think that i have images of acceptable quality(even though not potential contest winners) and the torch saved my trip. Here are a few images i shot with this setup. Would be happy to hear comments or similar experiences.
  10. Onokai and Jack thank you very much for the answers. These are interesting news for me since i always referred to Subal port chart like a bible. Whenever you use 100mm dome do you still shoot compositions which demand corner sharpness of do you choose more center weighted compositions? I was thinking whether i can have a Tokina 10-17+1.4 extension equivalent configuration for the full frame so that i could shoot some macro while using the 100mm dome. Do you have any solution for that?
  11. Hello Jack. Can 4.33 inch domes be used with full frame cameras? I own a glass 100mm Subal one. But unlike your's the shade is not removable. Since i upgraded to full frame i stopped using it.(since in Subal port charts i could not find any usage of it with fx lenses) Nevertheless i continue seeing professionals diving with full frame housings and having 4 inch ports attached. I guess if the shades are removable it could even be used with fish eye lens if it fits in.
  12. After studying the resorts in Fiji i have shortlisted 2 resorts up to now. These are: - The Remote Resort - Qamea Resort I would appreciate to hear any diving related experience in one of these resorts
  13. I am considering Fiji for an approximately two week vacation on Dec 2016 - Jan 2017. I am considering only land based diving. (live a board is not an option for this trip) What i am looking for is a resort with following characteristics: - with good location(relatively closer to major dive spots) - Especially to the famous soft coral dive sites of Fiji - With a dive shop with "a more personal approach" to divers(such as smaller groups, possibility to hire private guide, or boat etc) - Well organised dive operation with sufficient resources(nitrox availability, camera room etc.) - The possibility to organise 3-4 dives per day( a year ago, when i planned a trip to Fiji had some correspondence with some major resorts and was informed that what they do is two tank morning dives. no dive organisation for the afternoons) - Snorkelling friendly (wife is a snorkeler) - 4-star or higher level accommodation I would appreciate to hear any experiences in that location that may help me to finalise my plans. Thanks in advance for valuable assistance. Mehmet
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