ce4jesus

Sorry for your loss. It will sound cliche but any housing can, and will flood. I've had one myself. I can tell you it was the longest boat ride I've had in quite awhile.

Beautiful shots Keri

That was a great clip. Very nicely done.

I also sharpen using the high pass method...the 2nd one listed in your first post, with one step added. The overlay can be set for 0-100% transparency with a slider in the layer window. This allows you to select the level of sharpening you desire. With the slider, you can control the level of sharpening and select between 0-100%. I find 70% is usually as far as I want to go without creating something that looks over done. Hmmm...I think I'm now going to check out Jeff's method as well since I've never done the advanced tab. Just using the smart sharpen without advanced sometimes overbaked things :?)

http://www2.dot.state.fl.us/publicsyndicat...tings_district4 Scroll Down and you'll find it on the list for district 4

If this goes forward without extreme efforts to curb the environmental impact the damage might be significant. I'm not local but just caught wind of this yesterday. I'm not sure what we (those out of state, country etc) can do to help prevent this from moving forward without a further study of what the impact might be. Anyway, I thought I'd post this here for information purposes.

To supplement the quick answer mid-aperture range of the lens is usually your sharpest point. Being a rank amateur, I just figured this out the hard way. I was trying a new TC which allowed me to dial down to f32. The normal range on the lens is f22. While this new setting at f32 gave me a wonderful DOF it came at the cost of some sharpness which disappointed me. Anyway, just my 2-cents worth

It could be the difference is you're using your flash/video more lately? Those little housings tend to heat up quickly and the Fuji's are notorious for running a little hot. I had a friend who had one and used teabags...as many as she could stuff in there and there were still occasions where fogging occurred. As stated above, AC dries the air. I'd probably try running a hair dryer on it for awhile in a room with AC. Leave it open overnight and then try again.

Joe, I apologize if I mistated something above. It would be nice if Intova produced a link to underwater photos taken with the camera. IE full size images that could be examined. There are ample photos, for example, for most other cameras on here and there are places such as www.dpreview.com that give a somewhat independent evaluation of the cameras. So you've been making them since 1995, but there's a real lack of independent information out there concerning your product. The images I've seen from amateurs on other sites, and a purchase years ago of a 5MP version, have lead me to not recommend any of your cameras. It would probably be worth your effort to contact one of the pros on this site, or any other, and loan some cameras for testing. If this has already been done, posting a link to the results and write up would be nice. Thanks!

One of the buttons on your camera is probably "sticking", thusly freezing any other input.

How about a ban on shark fin products purchased in the US. That would be a good start.

I feel sick reading that thread.

@Pakman - That's horrific!!! I bet they could've raised more than enough money to build it in a different spot. I can't tell you how much that breaks my heart. @ElBuzo - "i'm considering left wife at home" ...hehe. I did exactly that but missed my dive buddy a great deal

I agree with them. A good, solid, first pitch. Generation II or III might make a really good underwater camera.

She was pregnant earlier right James...so maybe she went off to give birth? Christophe - WOW..super footage! You really put the viewer right there in front of Emma. Steve and/or Alex - Okay I have to ask....with all the sediment kicked up by photogs how in the world is it minimized in your photos! I've been shooting macro for awhile but sometimes my WA shots really light up the sediment (not really backscatter or bubble reflection) but just lit up particles.

You can't go wrong with the Inons but here is a link that will help you choose. http://www.digitaldiver.net/strobes.php

Samson, There were several folks who experienced floods with the PT-E03 housing. You can do a search here and at DDN.

The Intova cameras I've seen have a lousy sensor and lens. I'd go for a used system or check out the sea life mini which would be better than anything Intova offers.

No 7 is an absolute award winner....speechless!

I think it looks fine to me. The shot shows an eel at a cleaner station, ie in its environment. I think the fact you got two of the shrimp and the eel in focus is amazing. I usually get one or the other. The lighting is fine...although I agree it looks as if the eel is lit better just below its head.

Maybe someone can help me out. I used a Canon Housing on a G10 this weekend. I was unable to adjust shutter speed or aperture setting with the housing. With the camera there is a wheel that surrounds the controls. This wheel adjust the aperture or shutter but there wasnt a function on the housing to use the wheel. Anyway, more than just an inconvenience if you're shooting underwater. Strobes - you won't be unhappy with an Inon Strobe. Their s-ttl is excellent through fiber optic connection.

I had a good time diving at El Dorado. The basic accommodations weren't that exciting but the house reef was good. 4 different color anenomes, hairy froggy, nudibranchs, peacock mantis, big green and huge hawksbill turtle that hung out the entire week we were there, garden eels, morays, grunards, xenos tons of peterson shrimp and huge schools of grunts and cardinal fish. I also saw a few larger fish stopping by to get cleaned one day. I'd rate the diving right off the beach as an A if you're into macro. Viz was 40ft on a good day. The entire area gets a lot of rainfall and the grade is very steep so run off is quick. On rainy days you could find yourself in 15ft visability and the shooting got tough even for macro. The food was outstanding but you had to compete with a lot of flies. Most (all?) of those resorts lie in rural Dumagette where folks raise their own chickens etc. The staff does a pretty good job of trying to keep them away but there were so many it was a full time job. The famous Ducom Pier is a short van ride from the resorts and is the highlight of diving. Diving here is great for both WA (soft corals, schools of fish) and macro. There's probably every type of nudibranch and frogfish you could want right under the pier. Amid pier legs encrusted with the most beautiful soft corals I've ever seen. Bottom line - I'd give my left kidney to go back tomorrow but I'm all about what is under the water and will rough it up top. If my wife wasn't a diver, I'd have to consider doing Puerta Gularta (had friends who stayed with us at El Dorado and at Puerta and said the accommodations at Puerta were much better) and do my diving in secret bay. You could, and should, do an overnight to Dumagette if possible. The pier is not to be missed. Most, not all, of these shots are from the house reef and the Ducom Pier Dumagette Photos

Wow humbolts in that shallow of water that is a great and rare capture. I guess a lot of those squid beached themselves after the earthquake.

For a "noob" you did outstanding...especially controlling the backscatter given your vis. I like the first one. Is that a smallmouth Bass?

In a nutshell I've seen folks use a modeling light when their strobe failed or for just effects by opening up the aperture. Your problem is this: You'll want to use F8 for the aperture setting to get a decent DOF on the shot. This will effectively will give you a nice black, completely black, photo. Strobes put out a tremendous amount of light for a small period of time. Much, much brighter than any handheld torch. So you could open up the aperture (F2.8) but then your photo would have the hotspot on the subject because the light will not be diffused. You'd be better stacking some Inon lenses together. BTW, when you stack the lenses you'll want your camera in regular mode, not macro or supermacro. My solution when I owned this camera was the FL-20 Olympus Flash in a housing. As long as you have an external strobe electrically wired to the camera's hotshoe you can fire it in supermacro mode. The FL-20 housing was a pain if you ever wanted to use another strobe but it worked okay for macro.