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Pseudonym

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About Pseudonym

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    Clownfish

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    New Zealand

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  1. I have a F-stop Loka UL backpack, which I absolutely love. It's the maximum allowable carry-on size, but the best part is this... When I get to my destination, the entire padded tray with all my camera gear slips out, leaving me with an empty pack that I can use for day trips. Check it out here: https://fstopgear.com/products/packs/loka-ul Here's a photo of the tray, from back when I was using a GH2: Unfortunately, the GH5 housing is a bit bigger than the GH2 and has built-in handles. I've also bought more lenses, so that all means I've had to change my setup a bit. Here's what I do now... F-stop bag (carry-on luggage): - Camera body and lenses - Ports - Strobes - Arms - Misc - cleaning stuff, batteries, etc Soft padded cooler bag (my "small personal item"): - Camera housing, wrapped in towel for extra padding - Canister light and charger - First stage regs - A shitload of double-enders (amazing how heavy these are!) 23kg checked-in bag: - All my other dive gear - backplate, wing, 2nd stage regs, wetsuit/drysuit, etc - Clothing That setup seems to work really well for me, and the padded cooler bag (see below) doubles as protection on boats, and even a wash tank if needed. Hope that helps. :-)
  2. A few examples of image quality... (Photos taken on the GH2, using Olympus 60mm macro lens and Panasonic 7-14mm wide angle)
  3. Hi everyone, I'm selling my Panasonic GH2 system. This is the complete package, so it's perfect for someone new to underwater photography. You'll get everything you need to jump in the water and start shooting straight away... Nauticam NA-GH2 housing Nauticam flat port 72 + neoprene cover Nauticam tray and handles with ball heads for strobe mounts Spare O-rings and silicon grease Panasonic GH2 Panasonic 14-42mm lens Battery charger, and 3 spare batteries Cables, accessories, lens hood, etc All this, for US$950 (plus shipping). Everything has been meticulously cared for and maintained. The housing is in excellent condition (there are a couple of small scratches on the rear window, but these are invisible underwater), and the camera still looks brand new! The GH2 has been superseded now, but it's still a superb camera - both for still photos and video. Throw a wide-angle or macro lens on it, and you'll get some absolutely stunning shots. I've even shot commercial video on this, and the quality was excellent. PM me if you're interested, and we'll work out the shipping costs. Also available: Nauticam Flash Trigger #26305 for Panasonic/Fujifilm (compatible with NA-GH4 / NA-XT1) If you're using strobes, I highly recommend this flash trigger. Not only does it make your camera battery last longer (because you're no longer using your camera's built-in flash to fire the strobes), it also means you can take multiple photos without waiting for the camera flash to recharge. Like this: https://www.nauticam.com/products/mini-flash-trigger-for-panasonic-fujifilm-compatible-with-na-gh4-na-xt1-xt2 I engineered this flash trigger to work in the NA-GH2 housing. It's now been reverted back to the NA-GH4, but if you'd like to use it with the GH2 system, I'll include instructions on how to make it work. US$140 + shipping (new from Nauticam is US$220)
  4. I had issues with my old fiber optic cables initially. We tried swapping the LEDs on the flash trigger for some ultra-bright ones, and that didn't work either. The expensive Sea&Sea cables do work though. And, after some hassles (they sent the the wrong ones, and still charged me for them), I got a set of cheaper ones from Divervision. I like these ones because they're straight not coiled, and I can have a more streamlined rig. Just make sure that whatever cables you get have 613 cores, and I think you should be good. With 613 cores, there's noticeably more light transmitted than the crappy single-core variety. Hope that helps. Good luck!
  5. FWIW, I've got the following setup, and it's almost perfectly neutrally buoyant with the dome port on... NA-GH4 2x Sea&Sea DS4 strobes 2x i-Das arms (non-buoyancy - about 18cm long) 2x Nauticam Carbon Fiber Float Arm 200mm x 60mm / 8 In. x 2.4 In. (nau.72211) Panasonic 7-14mm lens with dome port It's so good that I've actually let the camera hang in midwater in front of me while I've mucked around stowing stage regs. (Admittedly, I was showing off - I don't routinely do that! ) I also shoot with the Olympus 60mm macro lens, and macro port. This is negatively buoyant, but not by much. You hardly notice when you're holding it.
  6. True! (And what a silly decision that was by Panasonic.) You'd hope that Nauticam would design their GH5 housing with enough room to take the GH4 trigger. Surely they would...
  7. Looks like our flash triggers arrived at much the same time, Makar0n. And yeah... I ran into the same issues as you. There's also another problem you may potentially hit - you need a top-notch fibre optic cable in order to trigger the strobes (at least for Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobes). I believe it has to be a 613-core cable in order to transit enough light from the trigger's LEDs. My old cables worked with the GH2 camera flash, but were not good enough for the trigger. Like you, I took the trigger apart. I found the solution was to fit the circuit board in sideways. Here's how: 1) Replace the wires to the hotshoe and LED board with longer ones, so you've got more room to work. (I also replaced the LEDs with more powerful ones, but that still wasn't enough to make up for shitty fibre cables.) 2) Carve out a block of polystyrene to fit the space in the housing. Slice in half so you've got a top and bottom to sandwich the LEDs between. The thickness of the top slice is important to ensure the LEDs sit at the right height to meet the fibre optic cables. Carve little notches in the polystyrene for the LEDs and LED board. Fit back together into one block. 3) Wrap it all up with duct tape so it looks professional (well, kinda... ) and doesn't shed polystyrene bits everywhere. The main circuit board tucks neatly underneath. 4) Insulate the bottom battery with a small rubber band or bike inner tube (a road bike tyre works well) so the sides can't touch the battery contact - you only want the top battery to touch. 5) I used the little plastic cap from my battery packaging to hold the two batteries in a stack with the metal contact running up the side. 6) Use a larger rubber band or inner tube (I recommend a mountain bike) to go around everything and hold it all in place. It may take a couple of attempts to get the right dimensions of polystyrene block, but once you've found it, it should just wedge itself in place and sit firmly with no tape or glue required. I got this working just before I went to the Solomons for a week. It works like a dream - I love it. With the fast strobe recycle times, I was able to get shots that would have been impossible previously.
  8. Hi John. I use the NA-GH2, and love it. I'm not ready to sell mine just yet, but I'm thinking about upgrading sometime next year. (The problem I have is that I can't quite justify the expense of the GH4 + housing, when my current GH2 is perfectly good, and does 95% of what the GH4 can anyway!) So if you're still looking next year, feel free to hit me up - it might just be the incentive I need to upgrade! Also, don't just go with "any kind of housing"... Make sure it's a good quality brand like Nauticam.
  9. I've used the Olympus 60mm in the Nauticam Flat Port 72 (for Sony NEX 18-55mm Lens & Panasonic 14-42mm Lens) and it works fine. The only thing I found is that because the 60mm is such a close-up lens, finding and framing your object can be quite tricky - particularly with a larger-than-needed port. Eventually I went and bought the correct port, which was smaller, and therefore much easier to work out where the lens was pointing!
  10. Hey Andrei, I've sent you a PM. Is it possible to get the measurements for this?
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