seagrant

Tim, Do you think any particular color reflects less with these labels? For those items (like the 8-15 lens & SMC 1 where I wouldn’t want any possible reflection?) Thx! C

I just sold a d7200 system (Subal). Never a drop of water in any of my DSLR housings, but with my new d850 system I have my first leak detection system the manual Backscatter Airlock one and it’s simple and great. No reason not to get one! I mainly shoot manatees and springs and a 45 viewfinder is completely awkward for that. I feel it’s best for macro and maybe some reefs, but that’s me. I have to be eye-level with my subject to get a good shot (or lower) and I can’t do that with 45 degree looking down. I need to maintain my perceived communication line to the subject for a meaningful shot that captures the essence of the creature. I’ve had the 180 degree straight enlarging viewfinder since 2006 and I’m in love with it. If I shot more macro I’d probably switch between them as the 45 helps keep you above the substrate. I think Nauticam has a nice straight enlarging viewfinder, don’t they? Or Saga? Subals 180 is the bomb in my opinion. i think you will miss having a 60 as it’s the perfect frogfish lens on crop sensor. I actually thought the 60 wasn’t even wide enough for frogfish and rhinopius but it depends the size you are photoing. Plus if you want to ever do any Blackwater you must have the 60s on a 7500. Fastest focusing for black water. I just got an SMC-1. The quality is amazing but it is a bit to learn. It can turn your macro from ok to wow wow!! once you get the hang of it. It’s heavy though so you must test and balance it out. Works best on a 105. Manual focus helps greatly. Tokina lens is great and versatile. It became too much CA for me to bear on the 7200 but the Nikon 8-15 is pricy (although I got it 150 off around Fathers Day) and it doesn’t have the same zoom range. The Tokina will be great for you. Just become proficient at removing fringing in Lightroom. It has to be done manually with a brush sometimes in LR. You can even get great video with the Tokina/7500 using the crop mode to remove the fisheye, manual focus for big stuff. Photos/video in same dive, just have video settings entered in ahead of time, flip the switch, pre focus and it’s easy! Thats input from me! I’ve housed d200/d300/d7200/d850 Goid luck! You will love the quality of your pictures now! Best Carol

Thank you everyone who showed interest in my items for sale! Most importantly the RED Subal d7100 housing has found a good home. SOLD Everything else in my post is SOLD. Except—the Kenko 1.4x & 2X Teleplus Pro 300 DG TCs (2 for $50.00). And the type 3 Subal 60mm D MF Port & ND30 switch/zoom gears (best offer). These are niche items so I’ll probably end up keeping them for caps/o ring, etc. Unless someone wants them. Thanks again, Carol

Tim, does your Subal 100mm (4 inch) dome allow the shade to be removed? Im thinking not with the Subal ones but Im not sure. The Zen ones Ive seen with removable shades are all for type 4 mounts only. I have type 3 so it limits some things. I think the 8-15fe + Kenko 300 1.4x DGX combo is valid for the wide angle macro or CFWA shots. These type shots always have some distortion inherently so I dont see why the excellent 8-15 plus the 1.4 TC would make them worse. I think you are on the right track Tim. Ive already asked at ReefPhoto when I was over there a few weeks ago and they couldnt get the info from Subal on the correct zoom ring. They said they would make me one but I havent pursued it. My next step, if I want to go that direction, is to get the DGX TC and see how it performs with the 8-15 at a fixed focal length. See if I like it. I may also need the small dome too so I really have to look at how much Ill use the combo and if I want to go down that road. C

Thanks Tim, B & H has the 300 DGXs in stock along with the HDs etc. I can try the setup for the cost of a 300 DGX ($159) if I want to keep a set focal length with no zoom. That way if it doesn’t work well for what I want I’m only out the cost of the Kenko and not a zoom gear that may have to be custom made? I’ll see..., if it’s worth it to me. We will keep each other posted, yes? Kind Regards, Carol

Thanks Tim! Wow, your regular 8-15 zoom ring looks a lot different than mine. Mine has mostly flat area with just a few teeth in the zoom engagement mesh area. I didn’t think the zoom rings were that different with the Subal ND500 and Subal ND850, but maybe they are just different iterations? Alex Mustard, in this Instagram post, has used the 8-15/1.4x Kenko combo on the d850 very successfully also but stipulates the significant limitations. He told me he uses a mini-dome when he rarely employs this combo (I believe in this pic too). https://www.instagram.com/p/BxkSVfUhgE1/?igshid=cc2qg6c7g06v So I’ll still look into it, I can test it without the zoom ring at just one pre-determined focal length as long as I get the DGX Kenko. Alex also users the 20 + the 18 ex rings. We have those though already for the most part, the 18 was for the Tokina 10/17 & the 20 is for the Nikon 8-15 alone. I’ve looked at what other photographers have done and the mirrorless are are quite close wide angle and what I've seen from Walt was a little more of a wide angle shot (with close focus too). There’s no line between what is and isn’t wide-angle macro so I guess just judgement and testing on shots one can’t really capture in any other way is the basic thing? If the shot works more than the optical limitations being introduced by the TC —- that’s the acid test I assume...?

Tim, Interested when you get the 8-15 + Kenko 1.4xDGX underwater. What dome port are you planning on using? From asking around the data I’ve gleaned is it’s a possible combo that works fine for wide-angle macro, but for regular wide-angle the IQ loss may be too significant? I believe this is what Adam found with the d850? I’m confused. It seems the setup works if one knows the limitations and where and when to use it, but I’m cloudy on when it is good to use it? I’d love to be able to use it as I cannot venture into WACP because of the topside weight—It’s too much for me to manage physically above water. And the Nik 13 conversion is too limiting as I can’t do splits. And the above-water weight problem is nearly the same with the larger 9”+ domes when they’re balanced correctly. You know, if I injury occurs, it’s kind of “all-for-naught”... I was hoping to get some flexibility with the 8-15 and 1.4 as a compromise. I can run my own tests, I have the extensions, but I too have to get the Kenko DGX version. And I don’t have a small mini-dome to try, just the Subal 8”. What Subal zoom gear are you using with the 1.4x? They don’t have anything listed on their website but that’s not unusual? Is there a part # for it? Do you have a photo of it? I’m not sure which direction I’ll go. I’ve “heard” the IQ isn’t good, but then some excellent photographers are using the combo occasionally in certain shooting situations, even on the d850? Hmmmmm? I’ve read a few threads but I’m still confused as to what situations it actually works in? Or maybe I’ll test it for myself? Any data you have is appreciated Tim. Thanks, Carol

Hello. I’m selling my very clean (98% freshwater used) Subal nd7100 underwater housing that lines up Nikon d7100 & d7200 bodies flawlessly. It accepts type 3 ports (but the mount could be switched to accept type 4). Has Nikonos electronic socket/bulkhead and/or fiber optic strobe firing. It does not have a leak detection system installed but one can easily be user installed as empty bulkheads are available. Housing and everything else I’m selling hasn’t seen any water intrusion, ever. I’ve listed reasonable prices to accelerate easy sales. Items have been well cared for. I can bundle items w/discount. Also selling: d7100 body/d7200 body/various gently used lenses, etc., as listed below. More higher-res photographs are available. I accept PayPal. United States (no international) shipping from Florida is not included in price. I’ll quote interested parties shipping costs. Please PM or email me: Carol@oceangrant.com I’ve moved to nd850 Subal setup, so I’m selling these items. The RED nd7100 Subal housing, d7100 & 7200 bodies, Tokina 10-17fe, Nikon 12-24 lens (topside) were used exclusively for the photographs in my recent article in Alert Diver: “Enchanting Manatees of Crystal River” Also various manatee videos on my Facebook were taken with this nd7100 housing, 8” dome & Tokina 10-17fe. Items for sale: Subal RED nd7100 u/w housing w/Nikonos socket & bulkhead/type 3 mount/incl. ULCS focus ball mount: $875.00 + insured shipping cost Nikon d7200 body/24,232 activations. SN 2519043. Original owner w/box, battery/charger & original items: $350.00 + insured ship Nikon d7100 body/7,410 activations. SN 2628362. Original owner w/box, battery/charger & original items: $250.00 + insured ship Nikon 60mm AF 1:2 8D lens. Original owner. Very clean/caps/no mold/works perfect: $170.00 + insured ship Subal type 3 Nikon 60D auto/manual focus port (incl. MF focus switch/zoom gears but gears only fit Subal nd30): $50.00 + ship Nikon 12-24 AF-S DX f/4G IF-ED lens incl. B&W diopter. I bought lens from original owner Peter Rowlands who reported it was a good 12-24 lens underwater. Used w/8” dome. Caps but no lens hood. Clean: $200.00 + insured ship Nikon 70-200 AF-S-VR 1:2.8G topside lens. Bought from original owner WP member loftus. Lightly used/stored in case. Clean. Incl. caps/hood/soft case. Worked beautifully on my d300/d7100/d7200 DX systems. Too much lens for me to manage now: $600.00 + insured ship Kenko Teleplus Pro 300 DG Nikon 1.4x & 2.0x teleconverters. I’ve used these on my d200/d300/d7100/d7200 bodies with Nikon 105vr & Nikon 70-200vr lens listed here. Caps/1box. Works very well with noted items: Both for $50.00 plus ship Nikon 18-200vr 1:3.5-5.6G ED DX topside lens. I bought this lens in 2007 it served me well. Clean/caps/hood: $120.00 + ins ship

ULCS triple clamps are great. Get the model with the cut-outs and you can position with greater freedom. Make sure you never use a triple clamp as a double or you will damage the clamp and it wont hold properly. Oh, and one more thing, in my experience the Nauticam buoyancy float arms dont clamp as tight as ULCS arms. It may be the blue o rings or ? So that might effect how a triple clamp holds? The original ULCS triple clamp holds strong with ULCS arms, but there isnt much play in the positioning. Im currently using the ULCS triple clamp with cutouts to hold two focus lights and the adjustments are wide ranging and very useful. It clamps really tight, so firm I need to keep it looser. Best, Carol

Tom, I have had the right (looking from camera & Housing back) small upper metal triangle where strap is attached flip in a weird position and prevent the camera from going in all the way. Make sure that metal triangle is flipped to the right. Otherwise have someone look at it or at least look at it on skype. Carol

Tom, I haven’t mounted my 60D lens yet. It’s easy compared to the 105vr mounting so I started with the 105vr. What I’ve found with previous housings is that if everything works with the 105vr setup then every other lens works because the 105 is the most difficult to get lined up correctly. I’ll mount the 60 in a few days & see. I’m unpacking right now, etc. The Nikon 8-15 worked with the dome port attached & 20mm extension topside so I don’t see why my 60 wouldn’t work? If Backscatter is helping you can you ask them if they would do a Skype with you and the housing? It’s possible your camera isn’t mounting properly for some reason? What is happening really shouldn’t be happening. Let us know, Carol

Tom, Hi! Im driving home today but Ill reply as best I can. Ive been shooting the 105vr in the 105vr Subal port with the manual focus knob for about 12 days now. My original Subal 105vr MF port from 2006, that fit my d200 Subal does work with this nd850. Its a little more difficult but doable. Make sure you dont have a port lock installed on the new housing as it makes it almost impossible to mount that 105vr port (type 3). If you do remove 1/2 of the assembly from the inside and save it in case you sell the housing. In lieu of that you must mount the camera in first and then mount the 105 lens from the front. On my d200 I could get away with mounting the camera & 105vr from the back, but it was always tricky. Now it just doesnt work. Yes the lens sits slightly to the right looking from the front (105vr lens) but of course it shouldnt sit too far right. When you install your 105vr port from the front you must lift up the focus knob while mounting and turning. I never had to do this with my d200/d300/d7100. Its not that difficult though, just gently lift up the spring loaded MF knob while you seat and again when you first turn it. The MF knob works great. Ive added the Saga adapter and the Nauticam SMC1. Its nice and nicely balanced if you want to flip the SMC to the 2 oclock position (REEFPhoto mounted the Saga adapter & SMC1 for me. Im glad they did as it was a little difficult & they showed me a good position to flip the SMC to.) As far as the 60 I havent used it yet but if the 105 fits the 60 will be a piece of cake. I have the older 60D. My switch gear and zoom ring for the 60D havent worked since my ND20. Subal constantly changes their gearing. So I dont mess with MF on the 60. Ive heard the newer 60S focus even better and no MF/AF switch & it fits in the old 60D MF port although the 75 port may be a better bet. Id use the 60 first though to see how much you will be using the lens. The 105 now is wider on FF. I hard wire my strobes, Nikonos sockets, manual. So I didnt get the fiber add on. You have to get the fiber add on because the 850 doesnt have an internal flash to trigger (same as the d500). I dont know where you are located? Did you get the housing through a dealer or direct from Subal? I was glad I purchased through Backscatter because they sold me the camera too (matched B&H price) and they were able to test my 850 in the nd850 housing to make sure everything lined up. It was a valuable service. Everything lines up perfectly so far, for me. My real passion is wide angle and I just got the Nikon 8-15 and zoom gear. It works but I havent tried it in the water yet. Wide angle is the reason I switched to the d850. But macro is going well too just because the d850 focus is so utterly amazingly fast and accurate! And the SMC1 is fun, a little tricky but fun. Im extremely glad I made the switch to FF with the d850 and this Subal ND850 is slick. Did you get a leak detector that works in conjunction with their flashy light? Its cool and Ive had the housing closed for 3 dives shooting in a row and the pressurized flash doesnt seem to use much of the small battery. The camera battery life of the d850 is much better than my other Nikons. If I was an avid macro shooter I might have waited for the d500 replacement. But since I want to improve my wide angle the d850 was the best choice. Ok I have to pack and drive. Hope this helps. I can answer more tomorrow. Carol

I agree Subal needs to improve their communication lines. For instance, they included a type of pressurized detection system in my new Subal ND850 that’s actually pretty RAD. But there was no documentation about it anywhere I could find and even the Backscatter people were surprised it was there. It works great though! It’s a selling point for sure (wish I had known about it) as it looks like it will work with other vacuum systems. It works well with the manual Backscatter Airlock. My new Subal ND850 is, so far so good. Very much like my other 3 previous Subals. I do appreciate that Backscatter checked the housing before sending it to me. Everything lines up just right and I just had to tweak a couple of things like removing a piece of the port lock inside (Backscatter talked me through it). I have type 3 ports and the port lock doesn’t work with type 3 and actually makes it much harder to mount ports. But other than that and the cool surprise of vacuum detector lights, everything is lining up perfectly and the housing arrived fast, too fast as it took about a week from Europe and I wasn’t in town expecting it and had to delay delivery. That’s my experience. I do miss Stephan Dietz, he was a good communicator. Carol

I finally got to pool test the Subal ND850 last night (thundershowers abated). The green light indicating the housing is pressurized worked perfectly. The slow flashing green light is not obtrusive at all and I found it quite comforting to see all was well. When I depressurized the housing the red light went on and the alarm sounded for 30 seconds, like before. Thats evidently how it works. It looks like it will work with various vacuum systems. It works with the manual Backscatter Airlock. Hopefully there will be more documentation on this Subal system. Its cool! I just wish I had been informed that it was now a feature. I would not have thought, at first, that it was a short or something. The housing is excellent underwater, very good build quality. Very much like my other three Subals. Im learning how to program the additional 850 buttons I want to use. Since I change ISO so much with a lot of natural light photography, I really like the way Subal put the ISO on an easy to reach lever above (but a little back from) the sub-command dial. I used the camera setting where I can just engage the ISO lever, let go, and rotate the smooth command dial to the ISO I want with my thumb on my right hand, flip the lever again and there it is! Easy! All done with my small right hand, very smoothly with no hand stress. Ill be using that feature many many times with this housing. And theres lots more. The sub-command dial isnt as easy to turn as Im used to with my other three Subals Ive had, but I have a feeling this was on purpose for people who bumped it by mistake. I never bumped it by mistake so I like it a little smoother, but it still has a good feel, very precise. Basically everything is lining up and working just right. The main thing I had to do is I understand the housing came in to Backscatter with the type 4 port opening and I ordered type 3. They switched it out but I had to remove a bit of the port lock on the inside. Backscatter talked me through it over the phone. Believe me, you dont want a port lock with type 3 ports. They dont have notches for it, dont lock type 3 ports and it will just make it miserable and much harder to correctly mount type 3 ports. With that 1/2 of the mechanism removed (I saved it and the pin in case I sell the housing to someone with type 4 ports) the type 3 ports go on smoothly. A port lock isnt really necessary with a vacuum system anyway. I pool tested it with my 105vr macro port with manual focus. Auto and manual focus worked great. I can already tell this Nikon d850 is a fast-focusing monster! Im extremely pleased. Hopefully the documentation and communication from Subal will improve. I would have appreciated the vacuum detection system more If I had known something about it beforehand. Otherwise, all is well so far. I love this camera/housing! Carol

Yes! You have to admire someone who, a couple of thousand miles away, can talk you into a whole new housing when I innocently called just to get blackwater lights...😆. But it makes since for me as the dynamic range in the Florida Springs is off the charts and this camera will really be fun to make images with! We think this vacuum light is a new feature with Subal. I didnt even know Id get it? Possibly it works with different vacuum systems? Maybe our friend Alex Mustard knows more about it? Carol