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Everything posted by loftus

  1. He,he! Thought it might elicit that reaction from some. In fact I have not slept since I took the picture. As for bad disco nights, I don't recall any of them - that was the whole idea wasn't it? Merry Xmas, Hannukah and Kwansa everybody!
  2. It's not been a very productive year, either diving or in the pool. Just working through stuff from last year, found a couple of interesting pool pics worth a little bit of post processing to pass the time. Looking forward to a more productive 2013....
  3. I don't think it's an underwater issue. It happens with my camera very occasionally topside. I have not noticed any type of pattern. I have one of the first 800's released and then an 800E. Don't think it happens with the E.
  4. Pretty cool; I was a little disappointed that it was not a full sphere view - and the up and down buttons did not work.
  5. 'Heathcliff, it me Cathy, I've come home.....' Man I love Kate Bush.
  6. So this is what happens when I do not get to dive with a camera in my hand for a while. All kinds of strange images materialize. What happens to you when you've been out of the water too long, especially if you are not taking photographs?
  7. This issue of the D800 not producing good quality images with anything but the best lenses keeps coming up and I think is misleading. Any lens combination that produces good images with any other camera setup like a a D700 will still produce images that are as good if not better on a D800. So if you got great images with a Kenko and 60mm on your D300s you will get great images of very high resolution on your D800. It's just that because the D800 is such a high resolution camera, if you want to squeeze every last bit of resolution out of it, then using the best available lenses will be necessary.
  8. Nikon TC's are great, but were really designed for use with telephoto lenses and I don't think they work with any fisheye lenses. I think the Kenko with Sigma 15mm, even if it's not the sharpest possible combination on the D800, will still give you as much if not more detail than any other camera lens combination. Jack's images are evidence of that.
  9. For me the 8-15 range would not be as useful as a 15-26 which is the FX equivalent of a 10-17. I have no real need for circular fisheye - as I can always create the look in post on the occasion that it would be useful. I find that with the 10-17 I frequently use the 15-17 mm end for an ultrawide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) angle view but with much less pronounced fisheye distortion, so it's the 23-25 end of an FX fisheye lens that would have the most appeal, of course with very close focus ability. 8-15 would be more versatile in the sense that it can be used on DX and FX, but I already have the 10-17 for DX.
  10. Wouldn't that be nice? Hope they don't copy the Canon 8-15 if they do make a fisheye zoom.
  11. Beautiful. Every time I see stuff from the Canaries, I know I have to get over there.....
  12. I think it's a little underexposed. Here's a version adjusted in Photoshop with just a quick 'Autotone' adjustment, increasing Brightness and Contrast
  13. On the rubber ring thing, I actually like the fact that the ring is removed as this the reason that the zoom gear fits and meshes so well. It can only fit in one precise position, so no adjustment needed or slipping occurs requiring readjustment. I have never taken a zoom ring off a lens once I put it on, and I just keep the ring in the original lens box in case I ever want to put it back on.
  14. I don't dive nearly as much as Alex, but for me Subal were not completely trouble free - particularly my D700 housing which did not seem to fit my camera with the same precision as my present Nauticam D800. The way this manifested was in the tray seating and some of the controls not engaging properly. Specifically I had niggly problems with the A / M focus lever, the lens release lever, meshing of zoom gears and back buttons from time to time, that required some fiddling and adjustment. Sometimes I could track it back to the tray issue, sometimes back to the individual controls themselves. The Nauticam tray seems to lock the camera in much more securely and precisely, and controls generally seem to mesh more precisely. Subal did have some financial problems a few years back, so I don't know if it was a quality control issue with just my housing or a particular batch of housings. These niggly issues were part of the reason I changed to Nauticam. Looking at the new Subal housings though, they do look really nice. Alex I really think a port lock without an extension ring lock does not really qualify as a proper port lock. Never flooded mine but came close a few times on some bumpy boat entries, where we both saw others Subal ports twist off and cameras flood.
  15. You are right about the 3,000 EUR thing, but actually I started using it (recommended by Reef Photo) as I had issues even with my Subal with handle screws etc with the threads binding in the housing, and also my flash synch cord lock nuts etc binding. So I first started using it for this on my Subal not for the Nauticam surface oxidation issue. I think it may help the oxidation issue by insulating the different metals. I'm not advocating smearing this stuff on the actual outside surface as that would be a mess.
  16. New Nauticam housings have great latches, which are even easier to use than Subal's. One thing I have learned from all my housings, is to coat all threads, interfaces etc on the outside with teflon paste
  17. I have owned and used both. I had Subal D700 and D200 housings, now have Nauticam D800 and D7000 housings. I think Nauticam really upped the game in housings. 6 months ago I would have come down firmly on the side of Nauticam as I think the precision and feature set of Nauticam housings is a significant improvement on my previous Subal housings. The new Subal housings really appear to have added many of the features introduced by Nauticam with a cleaner less cluttered design. Nauticam has had some quality issues which they appear to have addressed, but their design is a little cluttered on the inside with what would appear to be more parts etc than absolutely necessary. These parts can loosen, come off etc and I make a point of checking and tightening things etc from time to time to minimize this. Subal still lacks a full port and extension locking system which I think is a weakness. Outside of Europe Nauticam has a price advantage, so I'm not sure if that applies to you. Overall, if price were not an issue, with their new housings I would lean toward Subal, but if Nauticam offers a good price advantage I might go with Nauticam.
  18. Glad to see you're enjoying the new toy.
  19. Overall I'd say the 16-35. If you are doing mostly closer in half body / portraits this would be my first choice. If you are doing more full body with stretched out hands and feet, it will work but may give you some distortion of the hands and feet if they are at the periphery of the frame. If you have a Nikon 16mm or a Sigma 15mm they will work well with a 1.4 TC and this would probably be my preference for the full body with hands and feet for more manageable distortion.
  20. By less well specified, do you mean just the maximum aperture? In other respects it is probably better 'specified' particularly for digital. Remember the 17-35 was developed in the film days. The reason the 16-35 behaves better behind a dome may have to do with the way the light is collated more specifically for digital sensors. I'm not sure I see the real differences topside between the 2 lenses, and in fact gave my 17-35 to a friend and don't miss it. The 16-35 also has VR.
  21. Marc, That swim is pretty insane!
  22. The current thread on AF-On vs Shutter half pressed for autofocus, and the addition of Fn controls on the Subal D4 housing got me to thinking about whether underwater photographers set up any custom setting menus for underwater vs topside, and even different underwater shooting situations. I can think of various situations where this might be appropriate - macro vs wide angle, video vs stills etc. I'd like to hear if folks are doing this, and of course the Canon equivalent.
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