Photobeat

I need to get a housing in two weeks. I have an Aquatica D100 set up and ports, and twin nikonos 103 strobes. I can't see useing the D100 anymore as I own a D300, D700 and D3 (I am a wedding photographer) I think the D700 is what I want to take UW. 95% of my UW shooting is Wide Angle and will be with a 16mm. I hardly ever get UW like in the old days but I have the following questions. 1. I am considering Ikelite because I dive so infrequent but I hear the super dome might vignette with the 16mm anyone know for sure? 2. I have Aquatica ports already and the D700 is a great camera for the long term should I just bite it an get the Aquatica as I can use it for a long time, except for video but what about lighting UW? - see number 3 below 3. I see the D700 as a long term camera investment with the exception of having video like The 5D markII. however UW we would need video lights and strobe would we not? maybe a housing is not really a long term investment then or do the lighting issues kill having still and video UW? 4. I always shoot manual but will TTL on both systems with 103 strobes cost more etc? 5. Could I even sell an Aquatica d100 without the dome? Thanks so much I have searched but am short on time. As far as money goes it is not a HUGE issue, not getting UW a lot is the main justification issue to lower costs.

Aquatica would be nice as I have ports, any other would want a dome port.

Oh, ok, the d700 does not realize it is a dx lens without the contacts touching as the teleconverter is in place. Do you get all metering modes and TTL also?

Ummm maybe I missed a comment but DX lenses on FX bodies cut the MP count to like 5 something no? Although the pixels are high quality you are not getting the 12.1MP with a DX lens. Not sure this combination is a smart move.

I wonder why the housing prices seem to be based on the price of the cameras? A D300 and D700 are practically the same and the D90 is not that far off in regard to buttons etc. The D3 housing price is a ton also. I mean...maybe it is the expected sales and they can mass produce more D90's I don't know but it almost seems like the same tire on a rolls costs more than the same tire on a toyota. Materials and design aside 1000k less for the D90 is a consideration with the ability to get some video, though manual focus UW hmmmm might need the bigger viewfinder. I think there might be something on nikon's horizon to compete with the canon 5dMKII with 24mp and video but waiting sucks.

Nikon 10.5 dX fisheye. This lens is in great condition, some finish wear on the lens mount from taking on and off, thats about it glass and body is great. Lens caps, original box, lens bag, warranty card all included... USA lens. $575.00 shipping included USPS two day. Paypal ok. I can email pics if you would like them. I picked up a 16mm for a D700 and am looking to get a housing. If your not thrilled with it for the price I will take it back. direct email photobeat@aol.com

The d3000 has something called active D lighting, it has multiple settings on this mode to bring more detail in the shadow areas and less blown highlights. The samples I have seen really show more details on the shadows and better color in the highlights. It works well much like the shadow highlight sliders in photoshop but automatically in camera, you can set the stregnth of it..

They are both great selections and look interesting in black and white there is just no real impact. I think they are a great choice to compliment your other shots and color shots but what is bothering you is impact, a real powerful subject in the composition. I like them both.

I am mainly a still shooter UW but Ike looks like a good bet according to some retailers (if I decide to go under with it)

I am leaning toward the HV20 over the HC7 but need a reccomendation for video editing software. No doing anything professsional - something basic/value oriented. I don't need many special effects but would like to be able to get a film look. I have experience with Pinnacle stuff and am tech savy but far from a video expert. The 24fps with the HV20 hs me wondering if that will be a problem. I want to edit back to the camera on tape for HD storage but I guess down convert to standard for a DVD burn. I know final cut is way to much for me - was thinking premier or premier elements?... Windows XP thanks.

The colors are nice and exposure is good but a 105mm macro would have been a better lens choice, the subject is much to small in the frame and also heavily obscured. The shallow depth of field casing the blurred obstruction and the subject being so small causes no impact for the viewer. I would suspect 99% of the non UW photographic populatation would not have a clue as to what they were looking at. On the positive site the colors are compelling to keep them looking while they scratch their heads.

sometimes as bad as you wished you got the shot you just have to.... let it go...just let it go...

I don't use a mac but I think Aperture does it also but Adobe Lightroom allows you to take a jpg image and do all the same conversions that you can do in raw - all of them. Anyone noticed a quality difference in printing or image degradation?

What everyone said above is spot on I will add a couple things, in regard to the shrimp you would need to tighten up on the shrimp making that the subject and the fish the background, or tighten up on the fishes face making that the main subject - either way you would have more impact and of course I mean uncropped shots for best quality. Also you are shooting down which is generally a no no. Your image looks ok but a lower angle would have gotten a better score. Whether or not you could get that angle doesn't matter other photos got it and that is what your up against. Reading lots of books will help you edit your own by understanding the better shoots.

Rain X is supposed to leave a film, when there is a film/Haze you buff it off, never had any problems use it before most all dives, but check with your manufacturer.