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Everything posted by jonjake

  1. I am looking for old housing that uses Nauticam N120 style ports for a project. I don't really care what camera model it is for, just that it uses N120 ports and has a few threaded bulkheads. Ideally would find something that has been otherwise rendered useless for a couple $100 bucks.
  2. I would prefer to sell it all together but if I don't get any offers for the entire setup I might consider selling the legs only. Jon
  3. Brand-new XIT 404 Tripod Base (for Nauticam) & Twist-Clamp Legs (3). All brand new in original packaging, never been in the water. I bought it thinking I would start shooting video underwater and still haven't a year later so its time to go to someone who will use it. MSRP: $725, asking $600 OBO.
  4. Inon Z240 Type 4 strobe in good condition. $350 plus shipping. Will include -0.5 stop diffuser, Nauticam ball mount, extra o-rings, & modeling light diffusers. Strobe has never been flooded and battery contacts are still shiny. Shipping from California.
  5. I agree with all the points made above. The centered modeling light of the Retra Prime/Pro makes usability of the Retra snoot greater, the offset when using the Inon can be challenging. I am happy to have the wide uniform light for wide angle photography. In the few times I have shot wide angle with the Retra Pros so far I have been happy with them. They also certainly will work for shooting macro I will just need some adjustments to how I shoot macro (most likely higher ISOs). The takeaway worth sharing is that while wide uniform light might be ideal for wide angle shooting it has potential downsides for macro shooting, specifically when using a snoot. In retrospect it makes sense from a physics standpoint but it was obvious to me it would be an issue until discovering it in the water.
  6. Ok I just converted my LSD snoot back to the Inon Z240 mount and re-ran this test. To me it definitely looks like the fall off is less significant as the masks are inserted with the Inon. I found that with the same exposure (f/22, 1/250 sec, ISO 160) the Inon was set to GN8 (2 clicks below full GN11) for the exposure to look right to me, albeit the Inon Z-240 is supposedly a much lower power strobe. Inon Z-240 @ GN8, no mask Inon Z-240 @ GN8, 1st circle mask (largest) https://photos.smugmug.com/Retra-Test-Shots/i-G4LrgLr/0/5370afbe/X3/InonZ240_1st_circle_mask-X3.jpg Inon Z-240 @ GN8, 2nd circle mask (2nd largest) https://photos.smugmug.com/Retra-Test-Shots/i-9VQ3k94/0/17d49964/X3/InonZ240_2nd_circle_mask-X3.jpg Inon Z-240 @ GN8, 3rd circle mask (3rd largest) https://photos.smugmug.com/Retra-Test-Shots/i-3KWRfHN/0/5edea501/X3/InonZ240_3rd_circle_mask-X3.jpg Inon Z-240 @ GN8, 4th circle mask (4th largest) https://photos.smugmug.com/Retra-Test-Shots/i-GCc5fTs/0/7d732bbf/X3/InonZ240_4th_circle_mask-X3.jpg Inon Z-240 @ GN8, 5th circle mask (5th largest) https://photos.smugmug.com/Retra-Test-Shots/i-gCFz2PT/0/3bfb1ab4/X3/InonZ240_5th_circle_mask-X3.jpg Inon Z-240 @ GN8, 6th circle mask (smallest) https://photos.smugmug.com/Retra-Test-Shots/i-xwsnt7w/0/192e54f5/X3/InonZ240_6th_circle_mask-X3.jpg I would say comparing this set of images with the different mask sizes also supports my memory of not having to make as significant of power changes when moving through different mask apertures on a given mask card (1-3 or 4-6). We know the Retra Pro has a very wide and even field of light which is not the case with the Inon Z-240. However when using the Retra snoot that seems to be a pretty significant disadvantage as far as how much of that light is collimated and transmitted by the snoot. I primarily bought the Retra Pros for wide angle but it is a disappointing to find out the Retra snoot isnt as powerful on the new "high-power" strobes as my old Inon strobes. I guess its good I have other options for snooting...
  7. I ran some initial bench tests this afternoon to reproduce what surprised me in the water yesterday as I hadn't noticed it when previously using my LSD snoot with a Inon Z-240 strobe. It makes sense that the amount of light getting through would fall off as the aperture is stopped down (by using the masks). Perhaps more of the light emitted from the Inon strobes makes it through the snoot or perhapsmy memory is just wrong. All of the images below were shot with a Nikon D850 and Nikon 60mm Macro lens on the bench. I set the exposure to "reasonable" macro exposure settings, f/22, 1/250 sec, ISO 160. Starting without a mask in the Retra I then set the strobe power to expose this shot how I typically would, which put the dial at 50 (+2), just 2 clicks from full power. Without changing exposure or strobe power I then proceeded through all the standard circular masks (2 sliders). I guess having to start with such high strobe power on the Retra Pros for the snoot (even without a mask) was the biggest surprise for me. The 3rd largest mask hole looks to be around -2EV darker (in Lightroom) than no-mask meaning to achieve my preferred exposure I would need push the strobe up to full power and ISO to 320. Guess I will just have to start shooting higher ISOs that I am used to for macro when using this setup. And probably wont even bring the mask with smaller holes when I dive. Hopefully this realization I have come to is helpful for others, my apologies if this is obvious. No Mask in Retra Snoot: 1st Circular Mask (largest): 2nd Circular Mask (2nd largest): 3rd Circular Mask (3rd largest): 4th Circular Mask (4th largest): 5th Circular Mask (5th largest): 6th Circular Mask (6th largest):
  8. I was primarily using the various apertures on the larger of the standard circular masks. I just double checked the mounting module and I'm fairly sure its the correct one, it measures just under 43 mm from the front to the back of the bayonet component (see attached image). I also found the box it came in that says "Mounting module (Retra Flash Prime/PRO)". I will set up some controlled bench tests for playing with things to see if the results are similar to what I was experiencing underwater.
  9. I have shot my Retra Pros a handful of times in Monterey, CA recently (both wide and macro) and have mostly been happy with the amount of light and quality of light that comes from them. I shot macro this last weekend and used my Retra LSD snoot with the Retra adapter and was surprised at how high of power I needed to use to light my subject. I used the LSD snoot for years with a Inon Z-240 strobe and typically remember being around 3/4 power for a common macro exposure f/22, 1/250, ISO 200 on full frame. With similar exposure settings I was noticing myself at or a few clicks under full power on the Retra Pro with the LSD snoot yesterday which was a little surprising to me given the power of the flashes. I suppose it is possible that really wide even light from the circular flash tube is very inefficiently transferred into the snoot. Has anyone else noticed this?
  10. Lowering price to $100 USD + Shipping. DM me if you are interested.
  11. I haven't used my Sola 800 Photo light in awhile so I figured it's time for someone else to enjoy it. I just charged it and everything is working fine. Includes ball mount, charging cable, and pouch. $125 USD + Shipping, send me a DM if you are interested.
  12. Looking for either Nauticam N120 60 or 90 Extension Ring. Send me a message if you have one you are willing to sell.
  13. I have 1 remaining space on a small group photo trip to La Paz, Mexico in November 19 - 24, 2019. I have a private panga (limited to 4 divers) reserved for 3 days (November 20, 21, & 22) of diving and we will do 1 day of whale shark snorkeling (November 22). Fall is the best time of year for photographing the sea lions at the famous Los Islotes Sea Lion Colony so we will plan to do that for a majority of the dives. Los Islotes (and other dive sites) also have great macro subjects including blennies, jawfish, and nudibranchs. Since I have reserved a private panga we have flexibility to go where the group wants to go. La Paz is somewhat difficult to fly to from outside of Mexico but others coming on this trip are flying to/from Cabo San Lucas so that is an option. Here is a blog I wrote after a trip I took to La Paz last December: https://www.jonandersonphoto.com/Blog/La-Paz Here are some examples of subject we might see: https://www.jonandersonphoto.com/LA-PAZ Send me a message if you are interested in the trip details and cost. Thanks, Jon Anderson
  14. Is this extension ring still available?
  15. Hi Joss, Interesting that you noticed that! I designed and fabricated the computer holder myself. Send me a DM if you want to discuss more. - Jon
  16. Finally got around to building a USB charger for my upcoming trip! Thanks for the idea and great documentation Interceptor121! Here is a picture of mine: https://www.jonandersonphoto.com/Misc/i-J57SRsF/A I used corrugated plastic for the base and dual lock velcro to hold everything to it. It charges 2 Nikon batteries (same model charger is available for all major cameras), 8 AA strobe batteries, 2 18650 batteries, my Shearwater Teric, and still has 1 USB port left. The whole thing weighs 650 grams (without batteries, Shearwater dock, and computer). Not sure if this is substantially lighter than my old chargers charger/powerstrip/etc but it is definitely much neater and more compact which will be especially nice for liveaboards trips with limited space and outlets for charging. Happy to share more specifics if anyone wants them. Excited to try this on my upcoming Sea of Cortez liveaboard trip in about a week!
  17. Interesting. I have a Nauticam D-850 housing with the built-in optical trigger that uses two CR2450s. I will have to look around for some extra CR2450 batteries. In the meantime I just did a the following test with my strobes mounted to the housing and facing a white wall (diffusers removed). 1) Fully charged all my AA batteries and installed them in the strobes. 2) Verified that all the settings on the strobes match and set them both to the same power (Manual -6EV) 3) Turned off the right strobe and took an image of the wall with only the left strobe (suspect strobe) firing. 4) Turned off the left strobe, turned on the right strobe and took another image with only the right strobe firing. 5) Turned the left strobe back on and took an image with both strobes firing. 6) Swapped the fibers going into the strobes to test each strobe with the opposite trigger/fiber. Repeated steps 3-5. 7) Adjusted the power on the left strobe up 2 clicks (now on Manual -5EV setting) to visually match the right strobe. Repeated steps 3-5. The images taken during these tests can be viewed here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/raa17deyd0tryfb/AAB3sLL8hrlqL5BAdhjrdSUKa?dl=0 From these tests it seems the suspect strobe is firing approximately at approximately 1EV lower power (2 clicks) than the other one. After swapping triggers/fibers without any noticeable difference I still believe the issue is with the strobe itself rather than the triggers or fibers. I will try to reach out to Pavel Kolpakov to see if he has any theories.
  18. Thanks Interceptor121 & makar0n for the tips. My AA batteries are on the charger now and I will run some experiments tomorrow to see if I can resolve it. I only use the strobes in manual power model with fiber optic triggering so I am not sure why the trigger batteries would effect the strobe power output but I will try new ones just to see. I still am interested in picking up a "spare" if anyone has one available.
  19. Looking for a single Inon Z-240 Type 4 that is in good condition. Send me a PM if you have one you're willing to part with for a price that is fair. I recently noticed that one of mine has a much lower output than the other while shooting a large ball of Jacks. Initially I though one of the two flash tubes might be dead but later I confirmed that is not the case by taking photos of the strobe in set to a low power with my lens stopped all the way down. Not sure what is going on with it because it still works fine but the output is significantly lower than my other Inon Z-240, I am fairly sure this wasn't previously the case as I never noticed it.
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