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Everything posted by Mariozi

  1. I don't normally to this for things I don't really like... I don't earn a penny or any discount from the guys, but their product is the best thing I ever found about battery storage. I have waited for 2+ years to write it down, and they are REALLY good (and can take a beating). http://www.powerpax.net/catalog/?product=12pk Good Luck!
  2. Hi folks, I just published an article on UWP (Underwater Photography Magazine) #53 on shooting inside the huge aquarium and it's technical difficulties. And also updated my Flickr Page with a new set, and my Webpage with a new gallery (Aquarium) and a video interview with the aquarium curator. Hope you like!
  3. Hi folks, I just published an article on UWP (Underwater Photography Magazine) #53 on shooting inside the huge aquarium and it's technical difficulties. And also updated my Flickr Page with a new set, and my Webpage with a new gallery (Aquarium) and a video interview with the aquarium curator. Hope you like!
  4. I think it was a nice release, the more options we have the better it is. Shooting DX underwater and having the 14-24/2.8 for topside I don't feel particularly drawn by either one. But I reckon they are good pieces of glass... and the 16-35 may be the best option for the FX shooter in between the 14-24, 17-35, and 18-35...
  5. I don't like the new 60mm working distance, other than that it is an amazing lens. If I started today as you're doing I would look closely on the AFS DX 85mm/3.5G VR. Good Luck
  6. Not true, the PROer a DSLR is the simpler/faster is it's operation in fact. Welcome to DSLR world, every lens should get it's own port. Marco lenses should be used under flat ports, wide angles under domes. Choices are 60mm, 85mm and 105mm. I would consider an aluminum housing... Good Luck
  7. If you can, and you think you will end up with a DSLR in time anyway, you are ready to jump. Normally people who ask this question is ready to go. I am a Nikon user. Nikon's lower recommendation is D90. Canon's lower one is 7D. Good luck!
  8. I don't really mind, I follow the rumors out of natural curiosity, but when it comes out (if it comes out) we will have plenty of time to think about it. At least some 6 months before the housing market gets somewhat defined for it... uwphotogs are never at the front wave anymore.
  9. For your needs, get a compact, a simple one, the simplest one. Canon makes good ones, Oly, Sea&Sea, etc... Even being a die-hard Nikonian that's my opinion. PS: If I can give you an advice (which I think I am not be best to give it out...) stay away from the Nikon x Canon war on the DSLR realm. Or if you want to go in it, no choice to stay out, buy a Nikon:o)
  10. I haven't personally checked S&S configuration for this lens yet (just because I don't own one yet). But from what I hear here and from friends it seems that Sea&Sea's is really the best configuration. It is to be used with the smaller SXER isn't it??? Note: In 10y shooting S&S, so far I have only seen less than 5 official port configurations where I would rather want to use something different than recommended... Anything can and should be tested... but from the lens size seems like Sea&Sea's configuration is absolutely right and using it with a ER40 which is 20mm longer than the SXER might get the lens too much inside the dome, and get some vignetting from the dome/ER40. If that is not the case you might get unacceptable loss of quality from the center to the border of your pictures, which should be more strong at the wider focal lengths (closer to 10mm). Good luck!
  11. I have put a checklist for the Sea&Sea TTL Converter/N on my webpage. To be conveniently printed in A5 paper and plastic coated to keep in the photo bag! Good Luck
  12. My zoom ring just arrived, and yes it is the right one. Some people worked it out with the 12-24 zoom ring as well... but I did not test this one.
  13. Weird... for some reason I had that the Nodal Planes (N) would coincide with the pupil planes (En/Ex) which is of course not the case... Anyway, thanks for sticking with it, just rest assured the tests done on the lens/dome I described were done with the basis of the "pupil" position then. Good Luck
  14. I've only taken it to 210... I believe they must have a 1.5 safety margin, so I don't believe in much problems up to 300. But I would do an authorized revision on all o-rings prior and before it. Good luck and please report the results.
  15. Sea&Sea domes are just like that also...
  16. Do not base your choice of photo equipment on video capabilities or a MP count... wrong specs to look at. Specially at a price tag of the Canon 5DMkII, I taught a student with that and would trade my D300 for it. In fact between the 5D and 7D I would like the later best... if I had no Nikon choice. It is more than resolution and video size in the end (which is the ONLY things Canon is hanging on to, too bad that resolution has a diffraction limit, but I think they are starting to see the big picture with the 7D, the "2-and-a-half years later almost D300+video"): It is more about AF performance with Nikon helping it out with distance info since 1992... Light metering receiving all colors since 1996... Better menus making the camera more configurable to YOUR shooting... Back LCD colors being more reliable... More resistant bodies... Better ergonomic... More logical & intuitive controls... (Nikon cameras are full ON when in the ON position, just an example:o)) Better lens choices for underwater... Being sexier with chicks... List goes on... This is a good thread to remove your doubts: Chenin Boutwell is back at Nikon And her subjects are a LOT more cooperative than ours!!! Good Luck
  17. I agree 1000% with Tom, no sense at all. A funny story (being a decade-plus, but not multi-decade user yet...): In the film era no one had nothing to hide, camera makers would release new cameras every 4-5 years and would pre-release mock-ups of those cameras to 3rd party makers of bags, accessories and, housings well in advance!!! I remember I bought my last SLR housing like 2 months following the arrival of the camera in the market! Today every one hides everything and it takes like 6 months after the camera hits the market for the serious housing makers to release/ship their housings, so it is something like 6 months to a year until you can use a brand new camera. But DSLRs have a life span of 2 years only... whenever most of us get our cameras underwater it is already half-old!!! We will never be at the top of the game like topside photographers or like we were on film... Chill out... I also have a D300, I am thinking of buying a Sea&Sea DX1200HD for the video... something that would fit in my pocket (both figuratively and budgetary). Not even the D300s strikes the bell with me... I am sitting for the D800/D400 duo.
  18. Forgot to mention: - No diopter needed like this; - Most of the problems due to dome/lens misalignment, occurs at the wide end of the zoom, but nevertheless this lens almost doesn't change it's size (as compared to other WA zooms) while zoomed. It is in fact shortest at 15mm, 2mm longer at 10mm and maybe 7mm longer at 24mm. Still too little to advocate the abandon of an SX Extension Ring at 20mm wide... Good Luck
  19. Yes, I have seen a few variations of those names in newer references that covers more than uwphoto. Specially omitting the word "radius" on the first term not to lead to the "center of the radius" idea, and changing the wording of "pupil" to "node" on the second term due to the size-changing characteristics of a generic "pupil". But you're 100% Correct, it is one of the best books in optics for uwphotography, and I am looking for a version of it (PDF or real paper). My main doubts were about the sentence used by dave: "Line up the lens/port with a nodal point" technically confusing, I just wanted to make sure we were on the same frequency as this describes lining up the lens and port with something somewhere else... I think ...and the word "posterior" seemed to refer to the back or "exit" nodal point. that is referent to the "back focal distance"... ...which in turn describes a different thing than "focal length" ;o) and so on...
  20. Depends on how frequent you dive... I have seen people doing in less than a year. Considering minimum diving I would send it in at least once every 2 years.
  21. Hi John, I only used it in the configuration I told you behind my Optical Dome Port (the glass one). It was stuck at 10mm, but I just got my zoom ring and I am going to give it a try... So far I really liked it, I had a Sigma 10-20mm, which I sold when this lens was announced. I think the Nikon 10-24 gives me a better range (specially on topside) than the Sigma and slightly better edges, but it was harder to use inside a housing. The Sigma I found out that required the ER40 instead of the recommended SXER, this one requires both. I am a big fisheye fan, so I don't use it as much. But the few times I used this new one I really liked, it's my preferred pelagic lens. If you mean to match the Dome Port Center with the lens Entry Nodal Point, you're absolutely right, that's why I suggest this different combo than Sea&Sea's one. Otherwise the lens nodal point is far ahead of the dome's center. Good Luck
  22. The 14-24 is better I think, but harder to put uw because it is bigger... Most housing makers have a config. for the prime 14 though.
  23. Plastic is cheaper, aluminum is better. For you DSLR invest in Aluminum...
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