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rbailey

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Everything posted by rbailey

  1. I've been down this road so here's my 0.2 USD. Front Page = I started by using FrontPage which is the windows default web builder and while the software wasn't to bad I found the web hosting very poor and front page not well supported. Dreamweaver = This is one of the industry standards, but sorry to hard for me. Yahoo = For a WEB SITE I now use and love Yahoo with thier own application "Sitebuilder" it's not that high tech but enough for me. You can have your own domain, own emails, also embed blogs as well as a store (if so inclined). I pay about 25USD per quater which I'm happy with. Have a look at the results if you want :- http://www.images-underwater.net/ However another option is a blog, simpler that a "web site" with many of the same advantages. I have acutally added in a blog to my site to add in "diary" type content from various projects and trips. I'd recomend wordpress for this although blogspot is also very good and both offer free hosting. Here is my blog :- http://www.images-underwater.net/blog1/ I know there are lots of "photographer" specific web hosts and software packages but none that seemed that flexible, or cheap (some even charge per image) but what ever you do go with a big player. My original host went bankrupt along with my .com domain which I've only just got back. Any questions etc please shout. Cheers, Richard B.
  2. If you don't like the more normal copyright check out what Mr One Light, aka Zack Arias does http://www.zarias.com/ He sutbly hides his copyright in the picture, on the side of building etc. In Gulf Photo Plus, above red traffic light. In Black Rob, above guys right sholder. In Running to stand still, on parking meter. p.s. Keep up the stunning images. Cheers, Richard B.
  3. Maybe have a play in PP and crop it a bit and also put on the diagonal ? Also the water background seems a bit to uniform have you tweaked it in PP, is so maybe a bit much IMHO. As for 3.5 C your NUTS ! 35C is more my level. Cheers, Richard B.
  4. Mike, have I seen you on Rebreather World as well ? For rebreathers (I dive an Evolution) you can use them but O2 and Lime is not availible by dive centers, doubtfull they will even know what a RB is. However if you are serious can probaly hook you up with contacts. Even in Dubai RB's are not supported we bring in Lime by the pallet ourselves and boost our own O2 as well as all sorts of helium naughtness Cheers, Richard B.
  5. Sorry may have been unclear. I mean same sort of life as in the Red Sea, it is just a bit bigger (in my mind). Cheers, Richard B.
  6. Hi, I live in Dubai so I've been quite a lot. Oman is split a few two. The main country i.e. Muscat etc and then Mussandam which is North of UAE in straights of Hormuz Diving is okay but not that widespread. Nothing world breaking a bit like the read sea, somewhat bigger life I'd say but the viz isn't as good (and a bit greener) and but never 1000 divers one on site. Mussandam is very wild, like a desert version of norway and the diving can be quite hard core. Where are you going ? and I can guide you some more. p.s. if you want to see more :- Mussandam : http://www.images-underwater.com/Musandam_31-10-2008.html Muscat : http://www.images-underwater.com/Damyatts_1_8_2008.html Cheers, Richard B.
  7. a GOOD Safari is something every photgrapher should do. Some cracking shots, looks like you had a great time. If you want some C&C the mixed animals in the first batch and the zebra in the dust horizions aren't straight. Sorry. Cheers, Richard B.
  8. If you know of him and like his work another video blog worth a laught. http://blog.chasejarvis.com/blog/2009/12/c...ter-camera.html Cheers, Richard B.
  9. Sorry I'm confused, and appologies if I've got wrong end of the stick but why not change to a lower ISO I assume that you want to open the aperture (ie lower number) this means more light (to much), hence using a ND. If you still need a slow shutter why not change down the ISO ? going from 400-200 to100 or 50 it will only improve the image quality. If your getting to much light at your lowest ISO setting then maybe a ND, however you state don't want to change ISO so I assume your not at lowest. A split ND is another matter and very creative, I love them but only used dry never UW. Cheers, Richard B.
  10. Sadly we get a lot of fish trapping out here. There ends up being a lot of "dead fishing", particularly around wrecks and reefs where they get stuck and abandoned but still trap. It's very sad what gets trapped.
  11. Nice photos. I like all the pool model shots everybody has been doing lately. Getting very popular lately then I saw your last photo and realsied why p.s. C&C = Looks like the black point has maybe been tweaked a bit much or to harsh a dodge on the second shot. Cheers, Richard B.
  12. Hi All, I thought I post a few shots of my barstadiezed gorilapod. (Sorry Alex just seen your questions.) It uses a small gorilapod which is glued into a section of arm, which then has a plastic clamp bolted through the joint and a length of bungey and dog snap clip attached. This size gorilapod is a bit small on land but underwater gravity is offset by bouyancy so seems okay, but if I was going it again I'd get bigger gorilapod. 1- Strobe facing right, slave facing left. 2- Strobe facing left, slave facing right. 3- Clipped on, normally use on wrecks (but this time dining room chair). 4- Tied on, using the attached lenght of bungey for bigger items. 4- Just the pod without strobe, Any questions please shout. Cheers, Richard B.
  13. Nice work. I've started fiddling with symilar myself a couple of months ago but sadly still nothing worth sharing. I like the idea of bringing subjects that would be out of normal light range into the shot as has been done with the diver entering the plane. Currently using 2x DS125's on Ikelite optical trigger / manual controller and then 1x DS160 on a 15 foot cable as master and trigger. Normally also using a with a tripod to lock the composition while I set the shot up and allow slower shutter speed for more ambient contribution. How are you mounting / positioning your strobes ? At the moment I am using a barstad combination of a cut up arm with ball joint on strobe end and then a gorilar pod, plastic clamp and length of bungey "Heath Robinsoned" on the other. Works better than it sounds as I can either stand, clamp or tie the strobe and still direct it and point the slave eye independantly. This is definatly team photgraphy as need assistant to help rig it all (and a yellow box helps the bottom times to get the set up done). p.s. Been looking at Joe McNally or David Hobby for insperation perhaps ? Cheers, Richard B.
  14. Always use the cover, minimises some of the bigger / deeper type of scratches. Also keep it on when doing wreck penetration as I learnt the hard way. Reel/Line, Tourch and Camera is hard work inside a wreck. Cheers, Richard B.
  15. Visa, Mastercard and American Express wish you a happy holiday
  16. Another vote for Cathy. Did a stop over on way to Auz last week and came out MUCH poorer , , , , , , Canon 20-300 3.5-5.6 IS L USM :-) Also Penisula Plaza is handy for the MRT from that airport, Changi to Town Hall about 30 minutes and direct. I did my research on line and they even gave me a quote by email. Cheers, Richard B.
  17. Had the same recently on two 125's and a 160. Two I broke the heads off and the third I drilled off. Then inverted foot fitting of the ball, drilled and tapped fresh holes. All went back together with new stainless steel set screws and a little spot of silicone. Sorry not an easy fix if you don't have the right drill / taps but you might find a freindly local engineer. p.s. Be carefull with any chemicals and be carefull cutting a new slot as there is not much space. Cheers, Richard B.
  18. ooh ooh ooh, nice rig ! and a 45 deg view finder. Sorry I know Cheers, Richard B.
  19. Nice idea, been trying to think of something simple to fix a CENTER focus light and think you've just hit the nail on the head. Well done. Cheers, Richard B.
  20. Great news, At the same time as the new 7D Canon have also announced a new Macro Lens . 100 f/2.8L IS USM Macro Translation 1) Dual Image stabilisation, tilt and shift 2) UD glass for less diffraction 3) 9-piece round shape aperture 4) Internal Focus, ring USM and optimized algorithm achieving fast and quiet focus 5) full time manual focus weight: 625 gram filter size: 67 mm size: 77.7 x 123 mm The Tilt and Shift I.S. is a new system which is suppossed to be optimised for Macro. Tilt accounts for lens droop or rotation of the camera and shift allows for body and lens moving in parallel such as in surge. The size isn't to bad at 3.05 x 4.84 inches so should fit ports okay. This is also the first Macro L lens Canon have done, but the down side of that will be the price ! No news that I could see on the Ratio yet, hopefully at least 1:1 or even more would be nice. I've been pondering a while on next piece of glass, looks like this might do nicely for Christmas. Credit and thanks for the news goes to Canon Rumours. Cheers, Richard B.
  21. As others have said, get the light off the camera is top tip, if not even essential. As well as the obvious one , , , , practice. Cheers, Richard B.
  22. There is talk of there being a new 100mm macro IS-H lens coming out. The H in IS-H means it is a hybrid type vibration reduction which is supposed to take account of angular vibration (ie lens dropping) as well as the latteral (body and lens shaking together). It is supposed to be better vibration reduction for macro. There is also talk of it may become an L series but this is much more of a rumour that the lens it self which seems almost confirmed. Believe announcments / press release due for either 19 or 26th August. Check out www.canonrumors.com Cheers, Richard B.
  23. Hi, Just to add my 0.02 USD worth, I'm using a Manfrotto 724B (Modified). http://www.manfrotto.com/Jahia/site/manfro...=69&child=2 I have filled the bottom section of the legs with about 2kg of lead shot mixed with glue. Makes it nice and stable with low weight. The upper sections have medium sized holes drilled to allow water/air to flow and aid drying post dive. I have also replaced the bottom feet with eye bolts, the theory (un-tested) is that I can then use it at extreme angles or even upside down on and in wrecks by carefully using bungee cord. To attach it to the housing I modified a large stainless steel bolt head on a lathe and then drilled though the housing. The Manfrotto quick release plate is then fitted on the under side of the housing. (Ikelite housing). As for photographic results sorry still work in progress, as my teacher used to say "must try harder". Cheers, Richard B.
  24. As always great work. Yet another top side trick but have you thought about puting a gel on the strobe ? A full CTO (Color Temperature Orange) will help give some warmth colour back in to thier skin tone. http://strobist.blogspot.com/2008/06/light...k-that-cto.html Both David Hobby and Joe McNally have good info on the WWW on this. Cheers, Richard B.
  25. Hi All After having just spent the weekend drilling holes and sticking lead shot in an old tripod to use underwater I just heard about :- http://www.gitzo.com/Jahia/Ocean_Traveler_...81OT/site/gitzo Designed for use in salt water ! Anybody tried under water ? and is it any good ? Cheers, Richard B.
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