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Architeuthis

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Architeuthis last won the day on November 4 2017

Architeuthis had the most liked content!

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About Architeuthis

  • Rank
    Sting Ray
  • Birthday 11/06/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Austria
  • Interests
    Diving / Photograpy / Video / Gardening / Cooking / Handcraft

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Austria
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OMD-EM5MII / Olympus OMD-EM1II / Lumix TZ-5 / Sony VX1000
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam EM5II / Nauticam EM1II / PT-EP10 / Origibal Lumix housing for TZ-5 / Sealux housing for VX-1000
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Two Sea & Sea YS-D2 / Two Gibielle video ligths / Weefine Smartfocus 2300
  • Accessories
    Zuiko 12-40mm 2.6 Pro / Zuiko 8mm FE 1.8 Pro / Panasonic 45mm Makro / zuiko 60mm Makro / Panasonic 7-14mm 4.0 WW / Zen DP170-N120 / Nauticam 45 Makroport

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  1. An update: I sent the defective Sea&Sea YS-D2 to the workskop that was recommended here: http://www.aquaphot.co.uk/ It was repaired, serviced and sent back within 2 weeks. The problem was the defective On-switch, a partially burned front plexi glass and a defective contact on the back door (I ruined the contacts, when trying to fix the problem by myself). Cost with porto was around 250 Euro - in case the flash failes again, I will discard it, a further repair will not be worth the money. I can recommend this workshop, good to know there is someone out there who takes care of defective flashes... Wolfgang
  2. Hi Ressler, I have both Pana 45mm Macro and Zuiko 60 mm Macro (o.k., in fact my wife has the 60mm (a Christmas gift), but I am allowed to use it from time to time together with CMC-1 (another Christmas gift...). In case kfish wants to shoot serious Macro, go for 60mm Zuiko. This is an outstanding lens and really worthily to be a Christmas gift... Pana 45mm is ALMOST as good (on EM1II body AF is as slow as with Zuiko 60mm (on EM5II the 45mm was worse than 60mm, but slow AF is common feature to all Macro photography - nothing to worry about)). In case you do not know what to expect, it is substantially better for fishportait than 60mm (I used it a lot this August in Zakynthos, when the diving base did not tell us in advance where the ship was going (great caves (no use for 45mm), big grouper (o.k. with 45mm (but 12-40mm with domeport would have been much better) or snails etc. (o.k. 45mm, but 60mm better))). For this purpose (both Fishportrait and Macro), people like also the 30mm Macro from Zuiko and Pana. My (very personal) opinion is 45mm and 30mm are Jacks of all trades, but (some) people with system cameras want the very best for a special task ( thumbs up for 60mm Zuiko from my side)... I cannot comment on the Zuiko 45mm, but probably it is not the optimum for macro and neither for fishportrait (in case you are very generous and kfish likes fishportraits, give her the Zuiko 12-40mm with Zen DP170 and extension (I posess this combination, but seldom I can use it, because my wife likes the combination a lot...)). I also cannot say much about ports (we use 45mm Pana and 60mm Zuiko with 45-Macroport (for 45mm) plus 20mm extension (for 60mm Zuiko), but you can look in the portchards by you rown or ask at the dealer... Wolfgang
  3. Hi Italypeppe, The vacuum will not have any noticeable effect on buoyancy (air weights approx 1.2 kg/m3 at 1 bar). Regarding the rig, you need floats pretty shure. I have smaller housing and camera (EM1II and NA-EM1II) and have to use floats. If not using floats, your wrists will be overstressed. Exact buoyancy force required can only said by someone using identical rig or probably requested at Nauticam US (They have very good customers consultation). Wolfgang
  4. Whow! 1/640 with the fisheye and 1/400 with macro - this changes my opinion, I will install the trigger... Wolfgang
  5. Hi Boletus, Thank you for this interesting information. Maybe I give the Nauticam trigger a try... Are you shure I could increase sync. on the EM1II up to 1/400 w/o crop? => In the menu I see no chance to increase shutter speed over 1/250 AND to have the flash. Flash just is not provided for speed faster than 1/250. How do you work around this? Wolfgang
  6. I did not know that it is possible to go snorkeling (this times snorkeling is called "Apnoe") in wetsuits without weights. Of course you can take a weightbelt, but take just as much that you are still positively counterbalanced. When you go down, the pressure will compress the wetsuit and you will have less buoyancy... Please be careful: it is a general practice that people go snorkeling only with buddy, never alone. In case you are alone and get a blackout (not so seldom when snorkeling), you are dead... Wolfgang
  7. I have EM1II (and former EM5II) and FL-ML3. So far no problems for about 3 years. I always have a spare flash with me, just in case (I read in several treads that the flash easily gets broken). I also have the Nauticam flash trigger (came along with the used NA-EM1II housing I purchased), but I do not use it. I do not see the reason why: FLM3 used camera battery while the NA trigger uses a separate one that has to be replaced from time to time (I use the FL-ML3 always at 1/16th power, so recharging time is quite short and energy consumption is minimal). Wolfgang
  8. I have no experience with FX, I have a much smaller sensor (MFT, Oly EM1II). But even on the small sensor the performance of rectilinear WA (7-14mm, equivalent to 14-28mm on FF) with the Zen-DP170 is not the optimum, because the domeport is too small for correct positioning of the lens. It was shown in WP here, that 7-14mm WA performs best with the Zen DP200 (that is, unfortunately, not produced any more). If I had FX, I would not go for the DP170. It probably may work reasonable with the fisheye, but certainly very suboptimal for rectilinear WA. Instead I would go for the 140mm Nauticam for the fisheye lens (=optimum solution) and for a really big dome for rectilinear WA (the latter will also work with the fisheye, but is not handsome). Why invest so much in one of the very best camera systems and then destroying IQ by using inappropriate domeports? Wolfgang
  9. Interesting tread. It is obvious that defringing is not helping to sharpen the photo... To test the lens over water will be revealing: The purple fringing that is due to UV light should be much smaller UW compared to the surface, since UV is very quickly absorbed by water. An example is the Tokina 10-17mm FE, that shows excessive purple fringing over water, but little UW. See here for overwater test photos with this lens (excessive purple fringing): https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4267346 https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4299636 I put UW testphotos with MFT Oly somewhere here in WP, but cannot find the link right now (but there are many to find in the Internet). In addition to UV absorption UW, the corner unsharpness should persist over trhe water, in case it is not the dome to blame... I guess it is the small domeport: the smaller the radius, the smaller and nearer the virtual image is and the more critical is exact focus and also the exact extension... Wolfgang
  10. For some lenses I have original Nauticam Zoomgear and for others I use D&D, like this one, for example: https://www.unterwasserkamera.at/shop/catalog/en/product_info.php?info=p5833_d-d-na-em-olympus-m-zuiko-digital-ed-12-40mm-1-2-8-zoom-gear.html Nauticam zoomgear is overpriced and i find it not really professional quality, especially when I see that insulination from insulated wire is used to make the gear fit firmly. D&D zoomgear is at least as good and costs substantially less... Wolfgang
  11. Ah I see Hyp - the functionality between 2300 and 300 is different (I aplologize for not beeing up to date on the different models)! LED flash is indeed no substitute for a real flash. In case 3000 is physically bigger than 2300, the little increase in intensity is not worth the upgrade (I call it little, since exposure goes log2 wise with intensity and only 4600 (9200) lumen will gain you 1 (2) EVs). The different LED colors are very desirable. In my experience red cannot be perceived by a lot of animals (but of course they perceive movement and currents, most even better than any light, so one still has to be careful and patient in order not to chase them away). So is the "strobe-off" function, although I tested with white/red light "on" during exposure and did not see much of a difference, depending on camera settings. Only slight interference in most cases, but good to have... Wolfgang
  12. I have Weefine 2300 and can recommend it, I like it a lot: #1.: The red LEDs opened a new world to me, as the red light does not chase (most) critters away (although AF with the more intense white light is more effective). #2.: The 2300 lumen are plenty of light for complete nightdives (I switch immediately to red, when I see an animal of interests and continue photography with red light; feels like working in the darkroom ). Basketstars completely unfolded and endless time to frame shrimps, patiently posing outside their crevices... #3.: More than enough light for macro video. The lamp provides enough light, even for occasional WA video. As you say, however, dedicated video light is the way to go in case you want to make serious WA video (we are talking here about a focus-light). #4.: The blue LEDs are nice to have in nightdives. No nightdive since I have the lamp, where I do not switch on the blue light occasionaly - it is fascinating to see the fluorescence, even without any yellow filters. At a pinch one can even make occasional fluorescence photos (For serious photos you need, of course, special equipment). There is now the Weefine 3000 Smartfocus lamp available. In case it is as small as the 2300, I would go for this one instead. To my opinion the 6000 is too big for just a focus light, even for a simple night dive lamp. Whether two of them are good and strong enough for WA video, I cannot say, maybe someone else has practical experience. Wolfgang
  13. I just want to update my post on the Nauticam camera bags and report on the first practical experience (https://www.nauticam.com/collections/mirrorless-housing-accessories/products/padded-travel-bag-for-mil-housings-w-handles) My wife and me have been in Zakynthos with two camera housings (NA-EM5II and NA-EM1II) plus the Nauticam 140mm minidome (that comes with a case intended for check-in lugagge). All three cases were carefully packed in the center of our hard-shell suitcases (e.g.: enrolled in the BCD west; additionally they were internaly stuffed with T-shirts and pants). Not the least problem occured. It is just the weight that helps to keep the camera rucksacks for cabin lugagge within airline regulations (8kg in our case) and prevents overcrowding of them. In the future we will always transport the housings and the 140mm minidome in our suitcases... Wolfgang
  14. A problem with the Loawa macroprobe is the depth rating: when using with Nauticam, the front part of the macroprobe is in direct contact with water. I was curious and asked at Nauticam (U.S.) to what depth the probe can be used. Nauticam replied it is not their responsibility, since the front is directly immersed, I should ask Laowa. Nauticam only guarantees for their parts, not for the probe. I asked at Laowa then and Laowa replied that it is not heir responsibility and I should ask the housing manufacturer (Nauticam in this case)... If I had the probe, I would be reluctand to use it in another way then just tipping the front into a puddle (this is what it has ben constructed for). I wonder whether someone has more information to what depth it can be used (but the information that I got is already offcial info from the manufacturers of probe and housing)... Wolfgang
  15. I have two broken Sea&Sea YS-D2 at home (the strobes refuse two power on after switching them on). I do not want to send them to the Sea&Sea representative in Netherlands, since I sent already one YS-D2 with same symptoms there (they pretend it is irreparable because of water inbrake, but there was never any droplet of water in the strobe). The defective strobe was also not sent back and just disappeared... => Is there a reliable workshop existing in Europe, where one could send the defective strobes in for repair (in September my wife and me are going to the next diving vacation in Egypt)? Thanks, Wolfgang
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