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Architeuthis last won the day on August 5 2020

Architeuthis had the most liked content!

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About Architeuthis

  • Rank
    Eagle Ray
  • Birthday 11/06/1956

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  • Gender
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  • Interests
    Diving / Photograpy / Video / Gardening / Cooking / Handcraft

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OMD-EM5MII / Olympus OMD-EM1II / Lumix TZ-5 / Sony VX1000
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam EM5II / Nauticam EM1II / PT-EP10 / Origibal Lumix housing for TZ-5 / Sealux housing for VX-1000
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Two Sea & Sea YS-D2 / Two Gibielle video ligths / Weefine Smartfocus 2300
  • Accessories
    Zuiko 12-40mm 2.6 Pro / Zuiko 8mm FE 1.8 Pro / Panasonic 45mm Makro / zuiko 60mm Makro / Panasonic 7-14mm 4.0 WW / Zen DP170-N120 / Nauticam 45 Makroport

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  1. Despite the corona catastrophy, diving was not really that bad this year: Early this year we did a three week trip to Raja Ampat, that was planned since long (when we left in the second half of February corona was not considered a major threat yet and on the day we returned the first lock-down was announced in Austria). Here one of my favorites from Raja Ampat: In summer we managed to escape for two weeks to the Adriatic, that we love (Island of Lastovo). Later, when corona came back, we did some diving in our domestic lakes, what means cold, but sometimes crystal clear water. Here a favorite of mine from Fernsteinsee: Hoping for improvement soon. Our (optimistic) plans start with April/May, but the lakes will be open in case travelling is not possible... Wolfgang
  2. I also think that de-fishing in camera is not really required (I presume it only effects the JPEG, not the raw file, but do'nt know since I do not use it). I often de-fish the 8mm fisheye images later in Lightroom, not 100%, just a bit until the image looks the optimum for my taste. Both complete fisheye look as well as 100% de-fished is sometimes to harsh for my taste... Wolfgang
  3. I cannot contribute much - Since I am considering to acquire an additional system, I read posts in different photography forums on the new mirrorless cameras and the performance of adopted lenses of the old systems (no new mirrorless system has, at the moment, enough lens choice of native lenses): Normally adopting lenses with adapter, even from the same company, slows down AF. This is the case with Sony and especially Nikon (there is a tread in this forum that the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye does even not work with the new Z bodies). Generally the slowed down AF (in case it works) is not so much a problem with WA(?) and fisheye lenses, but becomes a real problem with longer focal ranges macro lenses... Adopting Canon EF lenses to RF mount cameras seems to be an exception, there are many, many treads and tests in the internet where users state that their (modern) EF-lenses work better and focus faster on the new RF bodies, especially R6 and R5, when compared to performance on the original DSLR bodies for which the lenses have been designed for (the dual pixel AF system of Canon seems to be the most advanved technology at present; The CAF systems of Panasonic or Nikon cannot compete). Look here, just as an example, there are many more similar treads/reports in the internet: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4547484 As far as I am concernded, I think I will go with Canon and use the EF lenses I already have (8-15mm fisheye; 100mm Macro IS L). I expect them to work at least as good as if they were native on a EF DSLR body, but this still has to be shown... Wolfgang
  4. Hi Pomacentridae, First, there is the option to take a very good standard zoom (ideally with internal zoom and focus - I am not shure such a lens exists) behind planport and use together with wet lenses for macro and WA, but I do not have experience with this, so cannot say much... I only can tell what is useful/not useful for me personally, from the lens/port combinations I own: #1.: WA-rectilinear.: Indeed the Pana 7-14 behind Zen DP170 does not give good IQ, especially at 7mm (I almost never use this combination any more). Maybe the Pana 8-19 behind Nauticam 180 gives better results, both because the Nauticam port is a larger section of the same sphaere, compared to Zen and also because 8mm is not as wide as 7mm. There are reports in this forum that real good IQ with rectilinear WA in this range can only be achieved with larger domes, the optimum beeing the Zen DP200 (that is, unfortunately, not sold any more; there is still sold an identical/similar (?) port by AOI, but I did not read in any forum that someone was testing it so far). #2.: WA-fisheye.: IQ is excellent, already with the Zuiko 8mm (likely identical with pana 8mm), but as Chris says, the Canon 8-15mm (with Metabones 1x Smart adapter) is much more versatile as it allows to zoom in to some extend, what is often very useful. I use it both with Nauticam 140 and Zen DP170, in both cases IQ is brilliant. Eventually it could be used also with Zen DP100, but I do not have this very small dome, so cannot say. Also the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye (with Metabones 0.71x speedbooster) gives practically the same IQ with both domes to my eyes (However, what you save with the cheaper Tokina lens (that is a lousy lens over the water) you spend at least partially for the extra price of the speedbooster, compared to the glassless 1x adapter). To my personal opinion and preferences a fisheye is highly desireable for WA with MFT, a zoom fisheye even more... #3.: "Normal" range: Like Chris, I am excited about the Zuiko 12-40mm Pro, behind a domeport (Zen DP170, in my case). Due to the domeport, the IQ is brilliant at 12mm (As good as the fisheyes above) and you can zoom in as far as to 40mm. This lens is the optimum for fish portrait, but also for shyer animals e.g. schooling hammerhead sharks (not the feeded ones!). In case you go for a domeport, I would buy the N120 versions and use with N85-N120 adapter: You need different extensions anyhow for the different lenses, even when using a port with built in extension. The N120 with appropriate extension/adapter costs more in the beginning, compared to a N85 port with built in extension, but when you, at some time, grade up to another camera system (APS-C or FF) you can continue to use the N120 domeports. You have to check the portcharts to see what extensions you need... In case you go only for a fisheye, the Nauticam 140 is the optimum, since it is reasonably small, eventually the DP100 will work also. If you want to use also the 12-40mm Pro (and/or the 7-14mm), I would go, at least at the beginning, with the Zen DP170 N120: With the N85-N120 34.8mm adapter you can use the Zuiko 8mm as it is. Add a 35mm extension and you can use the Canon 8-15mm (1x) and with a 25mm extension you can use the12-40mm Pro and the Pana 7-14mm. The Nauticam 180 likely works a little bit better with the 7-14mm (still not the optimum), but you have to check out the extensions by yourself... Wolfgang
  5. Hi Brett, I can not tell about Sony A6400 and APS-C, but use both lenses on MFT (EM1II and EM5II). #1.: N85 mount: I use a N185-N120 adapter and have both domeports (Nauticam 140 and Zen DP170) in N120 versions (I also plan to upgrade to FF in the future). The lenses with zoomgear are inserted once the camera is in the housing - not a big deal. I insert first the camera with some small lens on it, e.g. Zuiko 60mm macro and final exchange for the fisheye is only a short moment, minimizing the risk of pollution of the sensor. I would assume with Sony it can be done similar, but has, of course, to be checked before purchase.. . #2.: Tokina vs. Canon: while the Canon is perfect for the smaller MFT sensor as it is, the Tokina is for APS-C. One can use the Canon with Kenko 1.4x teleconverter (would be the optimum for APS-C), still very good IQ, but with EM1II the AF becomes sluggish, adapting lenses has its price... Wolfgang
  6. When considering a zoom fisheye, do not forget the Tokina 10-17mm. My wife and me are using both Canon 8-15 and Tokina 10-17 behind Nauticam 140 and Zen DP170 (maybe your parents have one of these domes, also the Nauticam 180 would work). The Tokina 10-17 with Metabones 1x (only possible with Zen DP170, but not Nauticam 140) provides even more useful angles of view than the Canon and IQ for the Tokina is surprisingly good UW (the Tokina is a terrible "joke-lens" over the water, but UW performance is different). When wider angles are required (especially with Canon 8-15; Tokina with teleconverter already looses IQ), also the Kenko 1.4x teleconverter can be used... Wolfgang
  7. Great dome that you show on the photo (how much cm?)... I have compared, but only on the small MFT sensor (Oly EM1II and EM5II): Both Canon 8-15mm and Tokina 10-17mm perform at least equal with respect to corner sharpness, if not slightly better, when placed incorrectly behind the Zen DP170 (=11cm radius) compared to placement behind Nauticam 140 hemisphere (=7cm) the correct way. It seems that the bigger radius (and hence bigger virtual image that is further away) makes a greater effect compared to the wrong placement... Wolfgang
  8. I use a more powerful focus light (Weefine 2300 (=Kraken)), mounted to the coldshoe of my housing. Very comfortable, but you need a TC with an internal light. In case you have a TC with phosphorescence, that you have to light from time to time with your dive light, it is not so comfortable any more as you have to turn the entire rig to make the display visible... It is also good to have a light that switches off automatically, when the flashes become active. In addition a switch opportunity to red light is versatile - I always switch from white light to red light in case I see some creature I want to photograph. In most cases, the red light does not irritate the animal and you can photograph it much easier, but one has to become used to framing in red light... Wolfgang
  9. Beautiful images, substantiating my plan to come this summer (in case corona will allow)... Wolfgang
  10. I use Zuiko 60mm and EM5II/EM1II. I know about the diffraction issue, but for my taste the larger DOF is much better in most cases than the (almost) unnoticable loss of sharpness at apertures higher than f/8. So for macro I often use f/10 to f/12, just because of the better DOF... Wolfgang
  11. How is your focus mode adjusted? An average of a larger field or just a very small area (I suspect the reason for your focus problem may be that you use some general focus mode instead of a well defined small area)? I use an area, just as small as is possible, in the center. Then I aim the camera at the region I want to be in focus (usually something like the eye of an animal) and using C-AF I change position until I have achieved the framing I want. The small area (=eye) remains in focus (when I am lucky) or not, but seldom it is slightly out of focus (presumably when I happen to focus the small area not at the correct position at the beginning (e.g. slightly away from the eye)... Wolfgang
  12. I have to perform the every two-year service on our Apexs regulators. In my set, I will also exchange all hoses (I do so every six years (after unpleasant experiences with exploding hoses))... Upon several occasions, when I needed to give air to a dive buddy, I noticed that the standard hose length is uncomfortable for both me and the buddy hanging on the octopus (quite short). I plan now to cahnge to the DIR configuration, where one regulator hose is at 210cm. This should make air spending more comfortable (see enclosed image for example of DIR configuration with the long hose): My question is whether there are any concerns/recommendations why UW-photographers should use/ should not use DIR configuration? Thanks, Wolfgang
  13. f:3.2 is too wide open with the fisheye and the dome - try f:8.0 (at most 7.6) and increase ISO not to go slower than 1/60 s. Improve noise with LR. If this is not sufficient, the larger sensor may help. At the current situation (f:3.2) it is certainly NOT the camera that makes the image unsharp... Wolfgang
  14. Hi Oost, I dive since 1981 and for decades had exclusively neoprene suits. In 2013I decided to go for a trilaminate suit and I never regret. Especially as a photographer you do not move much and are prone to freezing. Now I take the trilaminate with thin underwear at water temperatures > 22 °C. Of course neoprene wetsuits are more comfortable to wear. Semi-dry is a bit warmer than wet, but it is no comparison to a drysuit, that is much, much, warmer... I case you are very careful with your suit (nothing for me) and the temparature is not too low, there exist also drysuits made of regular neoprene. A few years ago I saw people in Italy (Elba) diving with such suits, I had the impression diving with them was as comfortable as diving with a 5mm wetsuit, but much, much warmer... My recommendation (and what I have) is trilaminate with the expensive, but excellent, Fourth Element underwear (Arctic when it is cold and Xerotherm when warmer, you can combine them also (e.g. for 14°C I will take the Xerotherm leggings and the Arctic top)). Silicone seals at the arms and the neck for quick and easy exchange. I have an integrated neoprene hood that gives best thermal insulination. Also a protection zipper above the dry-zipper can be recommended. As drygloves I have the Si-tech QPS system. Wolfgang
  15. I use the Sigma 4,5 mm F2,8 EX DC HSM circular fisheye on MFT (EM1II and EM5II) with 1x Metabones Smart adapter. There is no clipping. I must admit I do not use it often, because one has to prepare the rig exclusively for circular fisheye (including removing the pedals, what means unscrewing about a dozend small screws by hand with the Nauticam 140 port - I wonder why they did not realize a simple "click and turn" bajonet mechanism(!)) - here is a clear advantage of the FF rigs with the 8-15mm zoom fisheyes that allow both circular and 180° diagonal fisheye at the same dive. Here is an example picture that proofs that the image circle is not cutted, there is even some small Snell's window on the top (EM1II; f:8; 1/250s; ISO200; two flashes manual): I am not shure that it is possible to house the Meike fisheye, since the lens is very short. I doubt there is an extension/port connection existing that is short enough (people have already problems not to get their hands and even the grip of the camera body into the picture when taking photographs over the water)... Wolfgang
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