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Architeuthis

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About Architeuthis

  • Rank
    Sting Ray
  • Birthday 11/06/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Austria
  • Interests
    Diving / Photograpy / Video / Gardening / Cooking / Handcraft

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Austria
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OMD-EM5MII / Olympus OMD-EM1II / Lumix TZ-5 / Sony VX1000
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam EM5II / Nauticam EM1II / PT-EP10 / Origibal Lumix housing for TZ-5 / Sealux housing for VX-1000
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Two Sea & Sea YS-D2 / Two Gibielle video ligths / Weefine Smartfocus 2300
  • Accessories
    Zuiko 12-40mm 2.6 Pro / Zuiko 8mm FE 1.8 Pro / Panasonic 45mm Makro / zuiko 60mm Makro / Panasonic 7-14mm 4.0 WW / Zen DP170-N120 / Nauticam 45 Makroport

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  1. Hi Tim, Make is unimportant (we have Miele). Salt I leave (we have extremely hard water here), but no detergent or sparkle, just pure water at the lowest temperature... Wolfgang
  2. The limitations of Wetpixel for sample image submission are outdated May I suggest that you post your images in the UW forum of DPreview and post a link here (this is what I intend to do in the future): https://www.dpreview.com/forums/1063 At DPreview up to ten full resolution images are allowed per post and viewers can download the images at the resolution you are submitting them for having a very close look. I would be extremely interested to see your Sony ARIV/28mm/WWL1 images at full resolution and also to hear what you say when you compare it with your old MFT rig... Wolfgang
  3. While soaking, I push all buttons repeatedly (as most others). At home the housing is assembled with a domeport and washed in the dishwasher (at lowest temperature!). Every six month I lubricate all mechanical connections (buttons, levers) with this fluid that has very low surface tension and is supposed to creep down to the O-rings (when I was using the fluid for the first time on my, second hand bought, housings I could recognize that it worked, since the buttons/levers were working smoother afterwards): https://www.unterwasserkamera.at/shop/catalog/en/product_info.php?info=p6154_d-d-top-secret-o-ring-fluid.html The ports are completely tried with a towel, immediately after soaking, to minimize the chance of waterstain formation. Upon every assembly they are cleaned inside and outside with computer screen cleaner spray using disposable spectacle cleaner paper and lens tissue for final trying. The lenses are cleaned upon every assembly with blow brush and Hama lenspen/brush. Every few monthes I check the sensor for dust and in case there is some, I clean the sensor according to the procedere in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0PKXtZ7dmY Wolfgang
  4. Wow, 45o tilted back screen - THIS sounds ergonomically... How is it possible to tilt the screen within the camera housing? Is this a speciality of Nauticam housing or do you use an external screen? Wolfgang
  5. This is really sad to hear. I fear not so uncommon at frequented dive sites. As you say and also the cited study shows, this was not the work of strobe energy, but of careless and just too many people... I also must add a sad anecdote: on my last diving trip in March to Raja Ampat I had to observe a dive guide, who was not just pointing to a pigmy sea horse with his rod, but used it to place it in right position for the photographer... Wolfgang
  6. @Lewis88: the linked description of the PhD thesis says, that very strong flashes (stronger than normal UW flashes) have practically no effect on a certain seahorse species (only at very high flash frequency and duration of exposure, a little effect on feeding behaviour is observed). This conforms previous studies that say that UW flashes are pretty undisturbing the animals. Not so the focus light (but red focus light is also save for many animals). Totally different the lamps, already at much lower intensities than 40k lumen (at 40k lumen maybe they get grilled ): I do not know of systematic studies, but when using them, one can observe regularily that many animals are disturbed by the permanent light (less as by touching, but they are). Less, if any, effect has red light, that most UW animals cannot perceive... Wolfgang
  7. I asked the blogger of the Inon UFL-M150 ZM80 review that Chris linked: http://www.reefwreckandcritter.com/blog/march-20th-2017 Jeff wrote that he has tested the MFT prime macro lenses, including Zuiko 60mm and Panasonic 45mm, but none of them worked together with the Inon wetlens, just the two named zoomlenses work - so no option for me..... Wolfgang
  8. Thanks for posting the interesting link to review of the Inon UFL-M150 ZM80 with MFT sensors, Chris... The rod shaped Laowa probe offers the advantage of much less scaring th eanimals, when approaching them so close. Still I have reservations about depth rating and also whether the AOV would be really good with the small MFT sensor... The Nauticam probe likely offers superb IQ, but when using the very wide AOV, the end of the arrangement more resembles a domeport than a thin rod. So a 8mm fisheye (or 8-15mm zoom fisheye) with a 100mm dome may be similar in bulkiness, but certainly will provide better IQ. In addition both Nauticam and Laowa probe cost a whole fortune... I find the Inon UFL-M150 ZM80 very attractive as this may offer the possibility to make normal macro with the Pana 45mm and/or Zuiko 60mm and to swing in the Inon UFL-M150 ZM80 via the wet diopter holder on demand for WAM. Big questionmark is IQ, better not to expect too much. I also could not find a statement that the 45mm and/or 60mm macro lenses are compatible. I wrote to several sellers, but I got only one answer stating that the Inon UFL-M150 ZM80 is comaptible with 12-50mm and 14-42mm standard lenses (I am not a fan of these "Jack of all trades" lenses and prefer to go macro with the dedicated macro lenses). At the first glace, I do not see at the first glace, why the 45mm should not work. Also the 60mm may work, but with less AOV (but more working distance). Seems that one has to test out the potential of this wet lens by oneself. I am close to acquire this funny wet lens (Is'nt this the interantional divers sign for GAS).... Wolfgang
  9. @ Chris: I did some recherches on the Venus probe and asked both Venus and Nauticam about the depth rating: Venus answered that the probe is immersible, but not intended for higher pressure and it is up to Nauticam to guarantee any depth. Nauticam answered that Venus (Laowa) is responsible for the depth rating, they guarantee just for their parts (the tip of the original probe extends from the Nauticam housing). So, when wanting to be on the save side, one can use this probe also without a special UW housing, just tipping in the tip of the probe into water (I have seen the reviews about real UW use of the probe here, but I am not sure that the testers have been aware of the problem of no depth guarantee by the maufacturers). In addition, IQ has been rated to be, at most, moderate. I am looking forwards to read reviews of the new Nauticam optics... I am not seriously planning yet to go for this new probe, I am just curious... Wolfgang
  10. Here a found a video that explains this new wetlens a little: https://www.facebook.com/watch/live/?v=2523553451253651&ref=watch_permalink Did I get it right: the gain is that one approaches the subject with a smaller diameter rod, instead of the domeport?? Wolfgang
  11. It seems that Nauticam is releasing now a wet lens that creates bug eye characteristics (for MFT in connection with the Zuiko 60mm Macro lens): https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/nauticam-extended-macro-wide-angle-lens Does someone have more information and eventually sample photos (I am curious)? Wolfgang
  12. Hi clockdive, Yes, you can continue to use your Sea&Sea cables. You need an adaptor like this one: https://fotografit.eu/products/65-flash-cables---accessories-and-adaptors/2408-inon-optical-cap-for-l-type-mounts/ Wolfgang
  13. #1.: Regarding the Nauticam 34.7mm N85-N120 adapter: It is designed to work with the 0.71x Metabones speedbooster (MFT to Canon EF). Camera plus speedbooster is constructed to give the same distance of N120 flange to the sensor than with a Canon body (without the adapter) - this is the construction principle of Nauticam and the reason why the length is 34.7mm (24.75mm obviously would be too short, I do not think that the engineers missed 10mm, but did not search for the 10mm by myself (a good pet may be that the Canon bodies (especially those with mirror) are 10mm longer, so th esensor sits more behind)). Regarding the (N120) extension, one proceeds then via the Canon EF charts of Nauticam or Zen, what the right extension for a selected lens/port combination would be, just like for a Canon camera in Nauticam housing. Accordingly, the ports have to be the N120 versions, preferentially without any in-built extension (I think the confusion comes, because of these built-in extensions). Tokina 10 - 17 mm works excellent with the 0.71x speedbooster (little vignetting at 10 mm (i.e.: 7.1 mm), but starting from approx 11 mm (i.e. approx 8 mm) no more vignetting). The situation with Canon 8 - 15 mm is different, as the focal reduction leads to heavy vignetting, a waste of the shorter focal length range and hence to a restricted range at the upper end. Therefore the Metabones (glassless) 1x adapter is the adapter of choice. @8mm one has approx. 180 diagonal angle of view (AOV), just like with the regular MFT fisheyes. 15 mm provide an AOV of approx. 85 degree, similar to rectilinear 12mm (but without the fisheye look). BTW, also the Tokina 10 - 17 mm performs very well with the 1x adapter, allowing even closer to zoom in, when required (74 degree AOV, similar to 14mm rectilinear WA). The problem arises as the 1x adapter is 5.6 mm longer than the 0.71x speedbooster. Hence one has to choose accordingly longer extensions and also modify the zoomgear with an extension collar (I have the 3D print files for both Canon and Tokina, even the versions for use with Kenko 1.4x teleconverter. I shared them already here, but just cannot find the link right now). #2.: Extensions: Here are the extensions that I use with both domeports (the green are the ones I use regularily; NA stands for "not available"). They come very close to the recommended ones (see above at #1): You are right when you say this all costs a lot of money, but who said ever that making photos UW is a cheap hobby? All the best, Wolfgang P.S.: Is it possible for you to go under the water in Sidney? Here in Austria, we can only dream now about our next encounter with the sea, at most I can go diving in the near-by gravel ponds what is not a good substitute, more a "Dive Emergency Descent"
  14. It is a pity to hear that you are not satisfied with your fisheye setup, Chris, since these setups belong normaly to the best and sharpest WA solutions... I have few comments: #1.: As far as I can judge from here, I do not find that the extreme corners in your example images extremely unsharp. Maybe it is not such a big problem - when I look at the corner sharpness of my Panasonic rectilinear WA at 7mm (with Zen DP170 and 60mm extension), THIS is what I would call really bad corners... #2.: It may well be an issue of dome port radius (you are using the DP100 with r= 5 cm). The smaller the radius, the smaller and closer the virtual image is and the more criticial the correct positioning of the lens via the extension becomes. I was considering the DP100 also, but was unable to find a version/extension that would perfectly fit my, admittetly, exotic fisheye solution (Canon 8-15mm and Tokina 10-17mm via Metabones 1x adapter on EM1II). So I went for the (larger) Nauticam 140 (r= 7 cm), where the correct combination for extensions exist. Here a real life indication for importance of dome radius: When I use both Canon 8-15mm or Tokina 10-17 mm with the Zen DP170 (r= 11 cm), I find IQ at least as good as with the smaller Nauticam 140 (Also the Zuiko 8mm gave perfect IQ with the DP170, but I cannot compare to Nauticam 140, since I never used this combination). This is contradicting the theory, since the DP170 is not a real fisheye domeport (full hemisphere) and correct positioning of the lens is impossible. It seems, however, that the larger radius by far outcompensates the error in lens positioning - indicating how important the radius is... #3.: In case you go for another lens, as you indicate above, I recommend you also have a close look at Canon 8-15 mm or Tokina 10 - 17mm (with 1x Metabones adapter and Nauticam 34.7mm extension). IQ with Canon is at least as good as with the Zuiko 8 mm and I personally cannot see that the Tokina 10-17mm performs worse in practice (this is a big surprise since over the water the Tokina is garbish). The pleasure to have the opportunity to zoom out during the dive is just indispensable, I never was using my beloved Zuiko 8mm again after haveing the zoom fisheyes... (And, finally, maybe another lens will be a disappointment, when expecting substantial improvement in IQ with the same dome. Improvements in IQ may just occur by chance, because the extension fits 1 or 2 mm better the new lens) Wolfgang
  15. Hi Dom, I bought multifiber optical cables from Aliexpess for 28 $ each: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32966164929.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.46c04c4dpwENCQ They are as good as the expensive ones that I already had... For other stuff the "Classified" section here and on Scubaboard may be a good source... Wolfgang
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