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Architeuthis

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Architeuthis last won the day on August 15

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About Architeuthis

  • Rank
    Manta Ray
  • Birthday 11/06/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Austria
  • Interests
    Diving / Photograpy / Video / Gardening / Cooking / Handcraft

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Austria
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OMD-EM5MII / Olympus OMD-EM1II / Lumix TZ-5 / Sony VX1000
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam EM5II / Nauticam EM1II / PT-EP10 / Origibal Lumix housing for TZ-5 / Sealux housing for VX-1000
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Two Sea & Sea YS-D2 / Two Gibielle video ligths / Weefine Smartfocus 2300
  • Accessories
    Zuiko 12-40mm 2.6 Pro / Zuiko 8mm FE 1.8 Pro / Panasonic 45mm Makro / zuiko 60mm Makro / Panasonic 7-14mm 4.0 WW / Zen DP170-N120 / Nauticam 45 Makroport

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Maybe it is just too much vacuum? In the beginning I had a similar problem with my Nauticam housing and vacuum system, when I was pumping first like crazy (I believed the more vacuum the better... ). Some buttons stopped to work ... When I pump just one or two more strokes more after the blue light has changed to green, I do not have any problems with camera controls... Wolfgang
  2. I am also interested in third party vacuum systems... May I ask Tinman, why you install the leak sentinel in a Nauticam housing, that has the vacuum system already preinstalled and just needs addition of the valve? I am also interested to hear, how long do the batteries last. I have two Nauticam housings that use single CR2450 batteries for the vacuum and have to exchange them every 1-2 years (estimated after about 150 dives). I frequently assemble the rig in the evening and leave the vacuum on overnight until the next day. How does this compare to the leak sentinel? Thanks, Wolfgang
  3. Hi Ant, Se my personal thouhgts above... Good luck, Wolfgang
  4. I checked the Zen domeports that I have: DP170-N120: there is a plate at the base that is screwed on via many screws: => seems compatible with Sea&Sea adapter... DP100-N120: the base is machined and not "screw-on". Only a small piece of metal is removable and screwed on via two screws. => presumably not adaptable to Sea&Sea type. => this is what I meant with "eventually": one assumes that every Nauticam compatible port can be adapted to Sea&Sea/Isotta via adapter, but for a given port (Zen DP100-N120) a unforseeable detail in construction makes adaption impossible. But obviously my English is not good enough - I apologize... (I just checked the dictionary: "eventually" means finally, while the German word "eventuell" means possibly. So "eventually" and "eventuell" have different meanings, this explains everything) Wolfgang
  5. I got new Info from Ms. Elisa from Isotta: => Nauticam Zoomgear is not compatible with Isotta housings => In case a lens is not in the Isotta portcharts (e.g. Sony 28-60mm), they will be happy to make a new zoomgear => as already mentioned above, they do not have a own vaccum system and will not make one. Every third party system works via M16. Wolfgang
  6. I am using a pair of the AlienExpress Tooke coiled multicore cables, cited above, for Inon Z330 and Nauticam housing (NA-EM1II) since approx. 2 years and I am 100% satisfied (I must say I use my flashes exclusively in manual mode and did not test TTL). They are as reliable as the coiled multifiber Sea&Sea cables that I used previously with YS-D2 strobes and were more expensive. One has to take care to select the right type of connector, when ordering, as many types are offered (as with all premade fiberoptic cables). I always have spare cables with me, when I go somewhere for diving, but do not take the spares under the water (my wife had the tendency to break her fiberoptic cables several times, when she was using cheap prefabricated cables from a local vendor; since she is using my old Sea&Sea cables no breakage occurred any more). The cost of shipping the Tookes to Austria/Europe is < 2 Euro, but it lasts approx. 1 month until they arrive here... Wolfgang
  7. Hi Stenella, A lot of good advice here... I have good experience with dolphins in ambient light with Canon 8-15mm fisheye, but with Oly EM1II. One should emphazise that your dolphin photography is for scientific pupose to identify individuals, while ours is "artistic", just to get pleasing pictures. This may well demand different lenses. While most like WA for "artistic" purpose, maybe a regular range zoom lens is better just to take photos of the animals for identifying them and other metrics. These photos will be much less pleasing, since they are made from greater distance, have less contrast and one cannot see the "big scenery", but they mayserve better the scientific purpose. Just an idea, only you can decide what serves your needs better... Generally, when making photos of fast moving animals using ambient light, you will work with a fixed shutter speed (e.g. 1/400s to avoid motion blurr of the fast moving animals) and aperture is set automatically to get the right exposure. With the small MFT sensor I have, I do not dare to use "Auto ISO" to get better exposure, since too much noise is added at high ISO (I just increase ISO a little to a fix value of 400). With a FF camera "Auto ISO" can be used readily for this type of photography, this is clearly an advantage. You also will want a lens/port combination that allows making photos at wider open apertures to get the maximum of ambient light. Such a combination for R5 is the WACP1. When using Sony A7x (or A1) you could use WWL1 and save money. I do not see the fisheye distortion as a problem - you can easily "defish" the image in LR and perform then your scientific measurements. It is even possible in LR to make a lensprofile for a WACP or WWL1/lens combination by your own and using this profile you get perfect defishing of the image without any distortion... Wolfgang
  8. Since I got the info directly from Isotta technical service, I count on it that Nauticam ports are compatible with the Sea&Sea adapter (she also wrote BTW that Sea&Sea ports are compatible as they are). It would be very valuable if someone could confirm the compatibility from practical experience (and maybe also report about eventual problems)... Wolfgang
  9. Great information, thanks to Oliver and the others! The custom made rear window to use the 45° viewfinder sounds good. What about the Nauticam zoomgear, does it fit? Are you continuing to use the Nauticam ports on Isotta (but maybe you had the N85 versions)? Wolfgang
  10. I suspect that this is marketing strategy: in practice we all have to acquire the stuff and test it out by ourselves. Afterwards we know whether we are happy with it or not. If not, we acquire an alternative and the old items are little used and rest on a cupboard attracting dust - this strategy brings the most sales. When everybody could find out easily what is the optimum for her/him personally, sales would be clearly lower and also focused on a smaller number of items, while others would be difficult to sell... I started this tread here to get the maximum information from first hand experience which WACP1/lens combinations give best results. Already we have a lot of good information... Wolfgang
  11. This is great information! But is not an improvement in IQ always a good thing and the opposite of good is bad? The question is, how big are the differences in IQ in the real world. I have no idea, the only information I have, are your reports and the low resolution images of different scenes do not allow me to judge and compare IQ. Test images under controlled conditions of the same subject would probably show differences and everybody could decide then what his/her personal optimum is, based on the facts. But do'nt be afraid, I am not proposing that you do it - you already do a lot. Thank you once again for the hughe amount of work you do to provide us with this great information ... Am I right when I interpret your post that your personal optimum is WWL1-B, since the improvements in IQ by WAPC1 (and even WACP2) are too small to outperform the increase in weight and price? For instance, when you go on a trip by plane, the increase in IQ is too small for you to drag around the WACP-1, you just do'nt bother to do it? When reading your tests, I interpreted your tests and comments that WACP1 is significantly better, worth the additional weight and investment and thought to myself that weight and price is still o.k. (WACP2 would be definitely too big and also too expensive for me, personally)... Wolfgang
  12. I agree that the WACP1 is not ideal for cropped sensors. For APS-C there is the Tokina 10-17mm (diagonal AOV 167° - 92°) and for MFT the Canon 8-15mm (dAOV 170° - 85°), that can be used behind a 140mm (even a 100mm) domeport and provide similar (but not identical) AOVs compared to WACP1. I believe that IQ and fisheye distortion are pretty similar to the WACP1 on FF at the same AOV (dAOV 130°- up to 59°, depending on lens), when compared to the fisheye lenses on smaller sensors. I currently use the Canon 8-15mm with 140mm (sometimes 100mm) dome on my EM1II and to not feel the faintest urge to acquire a WACP1, that according to the Nauticam portcharts would be compatible with the Zuiko 12-40mm, as I do not see how this could lead to any technical improvements in IQ over the Canon fisheye. I did, however, not see such a direct comparison so far, this is my assumption, I am eager to learn more from real worls comparisons... When we come to FF, the situation is completely different, since there is no zoom fisheye lens in sight that covers the 15mm - 30mm range (and the existing, beautiful, 8-15mm fisheyes can be used just as two mode lenses, toggling between circular fisheye (requiring dismounting the dome shade and seldom used) and 180° dAOV). I believe such a 15-30mm zoom fisheye behind a 140mm port would be the WA lens of choice for many UW-photographers. Here comes the WACP1 into the play that allows to use the low light advantage of the bigger sensor by providing sharp images at relatively low f numbers (compared to rectilinear WA lens behind a (large) domeport). MAYBE an alternative is the Sony 28-60mm lens with WWL1 as described by Phil, but he says the IQ is not as good as the same lens behind WACP1. My thought on the WWL1/WACP1 choice here is: Who wants to have a good, but not the best, configuration, when investing 10k++ into a FF setup? Nikon may be different case, presenting even more problems to the customer. I am not familiar with this system, but have heared that some of the old Nikon lenses can not be used in automatic mode on the new Z mirrorless cameras to which every Nikon user will have to upgrade, sooner or later (but I did not study which of the lenses are those). This is an additional obstacle that prevents investing into a WACP1, when with Nikon... Wolfgang
  13. I am considering to acquire an additional FF setup (at present MFT user). Currently my wife and me have NA-EM5II and NA-EM1II and a moderate size collection of N120 (dome)ports and extensions plus two FF lenses (Canon-EF 8-15mm fisheye and 100mm IS Macro) that we use via adapters and plan to use also on FF. We also plan to use a WACP1. The logical housing brand for the next camera (not yet decided 100% which model) would be Nauticam and this is likely the way we will go... I have however read a lot of good things about Isotta housings: They are lighter and (a little bit) cheaper than Nauticam. I have asked at Isotta about usability of Nauticam ports on Isotta housings, since such compatibility is for me the prerequisite for considering an alternative. Ms. Elisa from Isotta wrote me that any N120 Nauticam port or extension can be used on Isotta housing (I guess the ones with the big openings) right away and according to the Nauticam port charts, without considering any additional distance correction, when using this adpater: Nauticam to Sea & Sea Port Adaptor. This is good news and makes Isotta an interesting alternative to consider, but there are additional questions: #1.: How is the ergonomy of an Isotta housing compared to Nauticam? (From my personal experience I know that the Nauticam housings I have used are perfectly tailored to my right hand, e.g. I do not need to search for back-button focus or shutter, they are naturally at my fingertips. A downgrade from this situation would be an unpleasend experience, making a change not worth). #2.: Vacuum system: I see Isotta works with third party vacuum systems. According to my internet recherches, the battery life of such third party vaccum valves is 40-100h. This is contrasted by thousands of h with the Nauticam system. I often assemble the rig in th eevening and let the vacuum on overnight before the diving day. When using a system with 40h battery life, this means I have to exchange the battery every few days (with Nauticam this is, at present every 1-2 years; this also would make a change unattractive for me). #3.: The mechanics inside Nauticam housings looks a little bit "grafted full" compared to Isotta that looks much more simple and slim. On the other side, I never experienced a problem with mechanics with our Nauticam housings. Is the mechanics inside Isotta housings maybe just too simple? Did anyone experience problems with mechanics using Isotta? #4.: Nauticam 45° viewfinder and zoomgears: I also asked at Isotta, whether they are compatible with Isotta housings, but did not get an answer so far. Hence I guess they are not compatible (by default one would think that zoomgears and viewfinders are not compatible between different manufactureres; compatibility would be a positive surprise). Having to acquire new zoomgears and a viewfinder (and several adapters for Nauticam to Isotta) makes Isotta an even more expensive alternative to Nauticam and less attractive... If corona allows, I plan to go to a divers trade fair and talk to the representatives and hold the housings in question in my hand, before I will order one. In addition it would be very interesting and helpful to hear about experience when switching from Nauticam to Isotta, or even considering and thinking about switching... Wolfgang
  14. In my hands, the manual focus is extremely slow, i.e. many turns are required to see a noticeable effect in change of focus distance. Therefore I never use MF. Tips how to use it properly are highly welcome... Wolfgang
  15. Do you have a focus gear for MF or do you set the lens to minimum distance before you put it into the housing? Wolfgang
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