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Architeuthis last won the day on February 17

Architeuthis had the most liked content!

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About Architeuthis

  • Rank
    Manta Ray
  • Birthday 11/06/1956

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  • Gender
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  • Interests
    Diving / Photograpy / Video / Gardening / Cooking / Handcraft

Additional Info

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OMD-EM5MII / Olympus OMD-EM1II / Lumix TZ-5 / Sony VX1000
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam EM5II / Nauticam EM1II / PT-EP10 / Origibal Lumix housing for TZ-5 / Sealux housing for VX-1000
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Two Sea & Sea YS-D2 / Two Gibielle video ligths / Weefine Smartfocus 2300
  • Accessories
    Zuiko 12-40mm 2.6 Pro / Zuiko 8mm FE 1.8 Pro / Panasonic 45mm Makro / zuiko 60mm Makro / Panasonic 7-14mm 4.0 WW / Zen DP170-N120 / Nauticam 45 Makroport

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  1. Hi imacro, concerning the "reef shot" (2nd last photo): As Tim said the strobes were pointing too far outside, so that the center is not lightened as good as the periphery. In addition a long distance is covered in the middle of the photo and, according to the law of inverese relationship with squared distance, the lightnening drops off very fast with distance. Here the "rabbit ear" configuration of strobe arms may help to achieve more homogeneous lightening over longer distances (prerequisite is that the strobes do not point too much outwards)... Wolfgang
  2. Hi Mark, I own both Zen DP-100 and Nauticam 140 domeports and use with Canon 8-15mm. The Zen DP-100 I own only recently, but I posted some sample images, taken in murky waters (also JonCrow posted some sample images with DP100 there): At the first glance, IQ looks very good (Canon 8-15), but I have to test further in clear waters. I will leave this Friday (July 16th) to the mediterranean and will stay till beginning of August. I will post some sample images here and in case one cannot see then a difference in IQ compared to the bigger Nauticam 140 dome, I believe the difference is really small. In case IQ would be so similar, the smaller dome is certainly the better option (unless you intend to go FF later, then the 140 dome is probably the better choice)... I have more experience with the Nauticam 140 dome and can say that IQ is brilliant. I used few times the Zuiko 8mm behind the 140 dome (with N85/N120 34.7mm extension). I used the Zuiko 8mm also behind the Zen DP-170-N120 (with a custom made 30mm N85/N120 extension (https://www.unterwasserkamera.at/shop/catalog/en/product_info.php?info=p6901_d-d-nauticam-n85---n120-portadapter-30mm.html) as well as the Nauticam N85/N120 34.7mm extension) and IQ is at least as good as behind the Nauticam 140 port. This is surprising, since the Zen DP-170 is not a fisheye, but a WA domeport and not a complete hemisphere, but it is real. Of course the DP-170 is big, but you can also house a rectilinear WA lens within it (we use Zuiko 7-14mm or Zuiko 9-18mm; maybe the new Zuiko 8-25mm f 4.0 is the perfect choice). You can have both fisheye and rectilinear WA with one dome... I have the N120 versions, because I want to be flexible (for instance use the Canon fisheye or the Sigma 4.5mm circular fisheye (Canon EF version)). In addition, I plan to go for a FF system in 2022 and can then continue using the domeports. The downside is that you need expensive extensions and adapters in addition (the N120 extensions can be continued to use with FF). The N85 versions have often built-in extensions, what is simpler and cheaper, but when you want to use another lens (like Canon) or change the system, you cannot use them any more... => In case you go for the N120 ports, you have to check with Nauticam/Zen which extension is recommended (they do not state the length of the built-in extensions on their homepages)... Another lens to consider is the Tokina 10-17mm (Canon EF version), which gives very good results too (Zen DP-170-N120 with Metabones 0.71x speedbooster in my case). Wolfgang
  3. Regarding AF I can say that I use both Pana 45mm and Zuiko 60mm macrolenses on Oly EM5II (CAF) and EM1II (PDAF). With EM5II AF is much better with 45mm compared to the 60mm. I believe this may come close to the situation with GH5 (also CAF). With EM1II (PDAF) AF is very good with both lenses... Wolfgang
  4. Hi Jon, The extension ring is not causing problems as I am using it. I guess (as you alraedy say) that the extension is just too short in your case. I shortened one extension collar, the one for the Tokina 10-17 with 1.4x TC, where my design is a bit too long (I did not want to redesign and order a new one). I used an abrasive tool similar to the one below to make it fit: https://www.bauhaus.at/schwingschleifer/bosch-professional-schwingschleifer-gss-23-a/p/24795795?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxNmGjevD8QIVjP93Ch1I1QMyEAQYAiABEgLrvfD_BwE&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIxNmGjevD8QIVjP93Ch1I1QMyEAQYAiABEgLrvfD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!11897!3!224895636698!!!g!297667046343!!947016865!47437589459&cid=PSEGoo947016865_47437589459&pla_campid=947016865&pla_adgrid=47437589459&pla_prpaid=297667046343&pla_prid=24795795&pla_adt=pla&pla_prch=online&pla_stco= In addition, I drilled three threads (each in 120° distance from the others) into the extension collars. These are for grub screws that are thightened with allen keys, so that the collar is fixed firmly to the zoomgear and can not get loose during the dive... Wolfgang
  5. I think one can see differences in sharpness in the edges between the two testshots, taken at f 5.6 and f 6.3 (ton and hanging brick). The image arse, however, not directly compareable, as the difference may be also just the different distances of the edges to the lens, and not produced by the minidome... I will try to get shots in clearer waters and show crops of center and edges. At the end a careful comparison of test images at different apertures under standardized conditions, as proposed by Jon, will be the better means to finally judge IQ. I am eager to see these photos... Wolfgang
  6. Here two photos taken with EM1II/Canon 8-15mm/Metabones 1x under similar conditions, but behind the Nauticam 140 dome, a week before at the same location: 8 mm, f 6.3, 1/160s, ISO 200, 2* Inon Z330 8 mm, f 9.0, 1/250s, ISO 200, 2* Inon Z330 More testing in much clearer waters is required to come to a final conclusion about comparing IQ between the NA140 and the DP100. Until now I am excited about the minidome, IQ is very good as far as I can judge under the given conditions (3-4 m vis)... Wolfgang
  7. Here a report of my first photos taken with EM1II/Canon 8-15mm fisheye/1x Metabones/Zen DP100 (N120 version): I took the Nauticam 34.7mm N85/N120 adapter plus a 30mm N120 extension ring. According to Zen's recommendation the total extension is 2.4mm too long and this should lead to slight vignetting @8mm. This is, however, not the case (and so I will not test the the 25mm extension ring, which leads to an overall extension of -2.6mm too short). I also did not notice any sign of puple fringing (as Chris reportes for the Pana 8mm fisheye behind the DP100 minidome), so this is likely really a phenomenon created by the Panasonic lens (it was my initial fear that the purple fringing is caused by the small minidome and not by the lens). A difference is also that one can leave the sunshade on the lens, when using the NA140, while one has to remove the shade when inserting into the DP100 minidome (with both domes one has to mount the lens separately from the front, when the camera is already in the housing (with 34.7mm N85/N120 attached) and then mount dome+extension). I also must say the photos were taken in a nearby gravel pond with 3m - 4m of vis what is not ideal for judging sharpness of the image. My impression was that IQ is comparable to the Nauticam 140 dome, but the number of out of focus images is greater compared to the same lens in the Nauticam 140 dome. This MAY BE a homeopatic impression, because I always have in the back of my mind that the virtual image is nearer and smaller and so AF will be more difficult... 8mm, f 8.0, 1/200s, ISO200, 2*Inon Z330 I also had the impression that wrong positioning of the strobes, leading to backscatter, is easier with the minidome. Positioning of camera and strobes for WAM is easier. Here an example photo of a common sunfish (Lepomus gibbosus). I could have taken the photo with the Nauticam 140 dome as well, but is was easier with the minidome: 15mm, f 7.1, 1/160s, ISO200, 2* Inon Z330 The fish did not let me come close enough to really exploit the advantage of the minidome vs. 140. On July 15th I will go for two weeks to the Adriatic and hopefully there I will encount something more suitable (e.g. nudis in front of a nice background for WAM). Here some test photos (uncropped) that may allow, to some extent, judging the IQ better: 8mm, f 5.6, 1/250s, ISO200, 2* Inon Z330 8 mm, f 6.3, 1/160s, ISO200, 2* Inon Z330 In the next post I will post two images that I took under similar conditions with the same camera/lens combination, but behind the Nauticam 140 dome... Wolfgang
  8. I can recommend Zakynthos (https://www.nero-sport.de/en/) from my personal experience. The base is well organized and if you come with a buddy, they will let you dive according to your needs as a UW-photographer (provided that you don't dive like crazy and adhere to the time and depth demands) . Very good visibility (the deepest spot of the mediterranean (one of these spots is called "Calypso depth", > 5 km deep) is only few tens of miles away), plenty of caves and grottos and all kind of animals that populate the mediterranean. Generally, the Ionian sea is biologically richer than the Egean sea. Years ago I was diving in the Zyklades and this was disapponting: also good vis., but practically a desert. Good places were the east coast of the Pelepones (plenty of groupers) and east/south at the island of Hydra, where I could see the mediterranean triggerfish (Balistes caroliensis; rare in the mediterranean, more common in the part of the Atlantic ocean that is close to the mediterranean (e.g. canares islands). I cannot recommend diving bases there, as I was diving there on my own from my sailingboat ... Wolfgang
  9. Great advice here, the idea with the tupperware is very nice... I also asked at Zen and Phil Burghard wrote me that the Cinebag CB73 fisheye bag is just designes for the Zen DP100, so I will order one. I will write later how it compares to the Nauticam travel bag... Wolfgang
  10. I have Z330, but the problem is similar: it is too easy to unintentionally touch the preflash knob and release it... I use the strobe in manual mode and only notice that I have unintenionally released this knob when I see that the strobe does not emmit enough light. .. Same happens with the focus light on knob: I also sometimes touch this knob unintenionally and then the focus light goes on and I cannot switch it off and have to wait until it goes off automatically... The problem is more severe when using gloves. I am reading here with interest, since I do not have a solution. I can say, however, that with more experience the problem becomes smaller... The poor ergonomics is really an annoying problem of these otherwise very well working strobes. Wolfgang
  11. The Cinebag looks good. I will probably order one. The dimensions of the Cinebag are 6*6*4 (inches), while the bag for the Nauticam 140 dome (linked above) is, according to my measurement, 7.5*7.5*5.5. I assume the 6*6*4 is the smallest possible to store the DP100, or is there anything smaller (but stille sturdy and well protecting the domeport during transport) available? Wolfgang
  12. Since today I am a proud owner of a Zen DP100-N120 minidome. I like to store (and transport in the check-in lugagge) my domeports in padded travel bags, as e.g. this one (for the Nauticam 140 dome): https://www.nauticam.com/collections/accessories-for-ports/products/padded-travel-bag-for-n120-140mm-optical-glass-wide-angle-port Does someone know whether anything similar is available for the Zen DP100 minidome? Thank you for information, Wolfgang
  13. I am reading here with interest. My wife and me have the Pana 7-14mm and the Zuiko 9-18mm and use it occasionally with the Zen DP-170 (N120 version). In case we would not already have the two WA lenses above, I think the 8-25mm is the lens to go as it provides the widest range, going up to 25mm (the lens may be great for e.g. shy hammerheads; I seldom use the 7-14 mm, as the corner performance at 7mm with the 170 dome is not overwhelming). I wait for the reports (Humu will test ) and will decide then (but I am not sure since we already have two WA lenses and do not use them too often; It may well be that the 8-25mm could replace the two WAs plus the 12-40: less tele (compared to 12-40), but practically all the usable rectilinear WA)... Wolfgang
  14. Hi Jon, No problem, GAS is fun and part of our hobby... Your calculation for the DP-100-N120CR gives the identical result als mine in the table above - so it is probably correct... Here are my calculations for the Canon 8-15 with 1x adapter and Nauticam 140 port: My result for the 41.5mm extension is 1.2mm, but this difference is likely the 5.625mm I take for the additional length of the 1x vs. the 0.71x speedbooster. Your message from Zen says 5mm. I have measured the difference with an electronic caliber, I have both adapters here ; while the 1/100 and 1/1000 of a mm will differ with temperature, one can take 5.6mm as a fix value... => I think this different treatment by Zen is an indication how unimportant deviations in the 1/10mm range are in practice (but deviations will become more important at smaller dome radii, what is here the case). We both will check in the future in real live, this is the only way to find out, I am eagerly waiting for the domeport to come (What Chris says about purple fringing does not sound too good. With the 140 and 170 ports I cannot see any optical flaws with Canon 8-15 and also not with Tokina 10-17 (with speedbooster; with 1x adapter and especially with TC the Tokina is coming to its optical limits))... => Just a thought on the 41.5mm N85/N120 adapter: I do not see a reason why the Metabones or Viltrox 1x adapters should not fit into this extension, but the devil never sleeps. better to ask Nauticam whether they know if the adapters fit before ordering, just for safety. I also changed my order from last night from DP-100-T to DP-100-N120: I realized that the domport in front of the macro object will be the same, no matter whether I use the canon 8-15 or the smaller Tokina 10-17 lens, no reason to optimize everything for the Tokina, which is optically not as good. This means a mispositioning of the Canon 8-15 of +2.4mm or -2.6mm, depending on the extension, but I take this risk. The Tokina with 1x I can house almost perfect with a 20mm extension, that I already have. In case IQ is poor with the Canon I can ask our local UW dealer in making a custom extension for me for reasonable money. He is quite good in this, he did a similar extension for me already in the past... Wolfgang
  15. This is interesting. Just yesterday, after watching the Wetpixel episode on WA macro tools, in a severe attack of GAS , I ordered the Zen DP-100 (Tokina version). I plan to use it with the Tokina and 0.71x speedbooster for WA macro. It will last until I have the dome here, but I will report on performance as soon as I have some results... Wolfgang
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