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Larry C

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Larry C last won the day on May 26 2019

Larry C had the most liked content!

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About Larry C

  • Rank
    Sting Ray
  • Birthday 05/19/1953

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://http://s65.photobucket.com/user/Larry_C/library/Monterey%20diving%202015?sort=2&page=1
  • ICQ
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  • Yahoo
    lmcgmc

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northern California
  • Interests
    Diving, Sports, Antique Motorcycles and Old Trucks

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D500Nikon D300/Olympus SP-350/Nikon F100
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-D500/Sea & Sea MDX-D300/Olympus PT-030/Sea & Sea NX100pro
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2x Sea & Sea YS-D1/Nikon SB-104
  • Accessories
    L&M Sola 800&1200/Subsee 10x
  1. I occasionally take out my Nikon F100 with Sea & Sea housing. I shoot slide film and have it processed by an outfit in SoCal. I have the advantage of being able to use the settings from my Nikon D300 and D500 as a guide and an added plus is that Sea & Sea strobes are analog and shoot TTL without a converter with my Nikon, which has a built in TTL cut-off. Processing is a bit pricey. I pay about $10 for a roll of 36 and it's about $25 more to process it into slides and do a high quality scan so I can share them on the internet.
  2. Haven't tried WA or CFWA yet, as this was our first dive in 3 months and conditions were not appropriate for either. Trying to line up the snoot and check the camera alignment with a macro subject was pretty much impossible. I kept having my snooted strobe hit things and finding myself a foot higher than I expected to be, probably because I'm used to looking level or up at the subject, and now I'm looking down, but the position of the subject is not beneath me. I think I'm instinctively going above the subject expecting that it will line up with my head position. I'll have to start approaching it from lower and checking the distance before I put my eye on the viewer.
  3. Installation was about the easiest I've had on an accessory. Pull the O-Ring, slide the old one out, clean a bit, put the new one in and replace the O-Ring. Everyone who said "you'll hate it for the first five dives", you ain't kidding. Trying to use it with a snoot was all but impossible. I turned on my other strobe to ttl and got about 3 pictures in an hour of diving. I was often a foot above my subject, trying to find it in the viewer. Once, I knocked a poor Nudi right off his rock. Hopefully, I get the hang of this after a few more dives.
  4. Bit the bullet. Backscatter has a sale this week and even though I can’t dive right now due to health issues and coronavirus closures, I ordered one. It’ll be shipped when they get the next batch in. Thousand dollars here, thousand dollars there, pretty soon this UW photography stuff will start costing real money. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I always use back button focus and turn off the shutter focus. Once you release the back button, if you're in C it should follow the subject. In S, I just find the eye and hit the shutter ASAP.
  6. Anyone using the Inon Nauticam viewfinder on their DSLR housing? Is it worth the extra $500 to have the easy o-ring removal of the one Nauticam sells, compared to the ring nut mounted Inon that fits everything and is adapted to the Nauticam? How much tariff are we paying on goods shipped directly from China?
  7. I used the felt tip paint pen I write on my fins with, then lightly wiped excess with a paper towel. Lasted a couple of months, but I need to retouch.
  8. http://www.divervision.com/howshot-m67-mount-base-100-for-100mm3.9-ports-RM67-100P.html?search=M67 mount base 10 Fits 100-104mm
  9. If you want compact wide angle, don't discount the new Panasonics. Terrific wide angle and great video in a compact package. I have lots of friends shooting Oly, but the Panasonic is far better for video and you can use the Oly lenses.
  10. Haven't found a need, but if you haven't already, go to custom settings and change to "yes" on release button to use dial. Then you can make adjustments with one finger, usually after just dabbing the back focus lever. The info lever is also very useful. Gives you your settings on full screen instead of just through the viewfinder window. My bigger issue with the handles is strobe placement. The handles and my fingers are always in the way for CFWA and macro shots with a short lens. I've thought about taking one off and just holding the edge of the housing.
  11. Took it out for one dive this weekend in marginal conditions. 10-17 with no spacer. Lens extends to a couple of mm from the port at full zoom, but seems to focus well. Most shots were at F7-F8. Subjects were very sharp, hard to tell about edges and background with green water, 20ft. vis and lots of particulate. Using it with a M4 to Sea & Sea adapter and a Nauticam replacement ring for Sea & Sea port. The port is tiny, and I like that it stays out of the way nicely.
  12. Anyone using this combination? I picked up the FP120-7 optical glass port, which is designed for the Nikon 10.5, and it fits quite close but doesn't touch the 10-17, using my Nexus M5 to Sea & Sea adapter with Nauticam conversion ring. Works very nicely in air, but I haven't tried it underwater yet. I remember seeing a shot someone took using the 10-17 in the FP120-7 with a 20mm port spacer, but wondering if I need it.
  13. Closer to the housing means more compact, better for getting closer to subjects for CFWA shots. Zoom through I would assume means that you can use the cameras zoom effectively at all zoom levels through the dome. Domes are sensitive to distance from focal point of lens to port. Better shade arrangement means the lens will be better shielded from glare from ambient light in bright sun, above and to the sides of the port.
  14. Don't have that housing, but I have D500 and a D300, which is almost identical to the D200 in most dimensions and has been adapted to D200 housings. The D500 is taller and deeper than the D300 at most points. Unless the D200 had a ton of room above and in front of the camera, I don't think you'll have much luck with that swap. The D500 is about 77mm grip to back, compared to less than 72mm for the D200/300. Body height is similar on the right (grip side) at about 92mm, but at the left control dial, the D500 is at least 4mm taller. Body depth is similar at the lens mount, but the flash on the D200/300 is taller and slimmer than the shoe area on the D500. The swivel screen also sticks out an extra couple of mm. I think the biggest hindrance would probably be the depth of the grip, since it requires substantially more room in front of the RH side of the camera with the lens in the same relationship to the port.
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