Larry C

The 60mm micro is a great all around macro/portrait lens, but it sucks for super macro. Focus is so close and DOF so shallow at that level of magnification that it's virtually impossible to focus and even if you can, it's too close to light it. Haven't used the macro converter but with either the SubSea 10 or a Flip, I haven't got a usable shot. Almost everyone uses the 105mm. I understand the 85 will work as well.

If you're using the 10-17 with the 1.4, I think the 1.4 is 19mm as I recall. If you have a short extension for either Aquatica or Nauticam, probably the shortest available will be a good fit. With my Bare port, which is about 4 3/4", it works without extension but the lens almost hits the port.

Divervision sells Deeproof gear for S & S or F.I.T. Gear for Nexus, but I haven't found anything for Aquatica. Don't know what the difference in gear size is. Might be a lens with similar focus size that can be adapted with minor adjustment.

It's all about you. You can take fantastic pictures with almost any camera, but some have better native capability in certain areas. The RX is going to be smaller, lighter and more versatile as well as cheaper. It will take nice pictures and terrific video. If you want to shoot macro with it, you will have to add a wet macro lens. Your wide angle won't be as wide as a D7200 with a fisheye. You won't have as many choices in terms of specialty shots, such as sun bursts, over/unders. Your F-stop range will be limited and your autofocus will be slower. OTOH, you'll switch seamlessly between photo and video. You'll be able to shoot standard and wide in a single dive. You'll be able to pack all your photo gear in one carry-on bag. Good luck.

Great lighting on the dragon, Marc. Two strobes inward?

99% of my dives are with the 10-17 or 60mm macro. 10-17 with 1.4 will give you enough leeway that your subject isn't too tiny, and make it easier to avoid flare in silty water. I have a variety of tweener lenses and don't use any of them much because frankly, all they're good for is portraits of medium size fish. I don't even use a port spacer with the 1.4, as my Bare port works with 10-17, 60mm and 10-17+1.4 without any.

http://www.aquaphot.com/

I keep a back up and use it for topside pics so I don't have to pull the camera out of the housing, and I can leave the back-up out of the room for a couple of hours to de-steam it before shooting in sultry climates.

I use the Kenko/10-17 combo in my Bare dome (4 3/4", I think) with no extension and don't hit the dome. Total depth of the inner dome to housing edge is only 74mm. With a 28.5mm extension, that would put your dome at a depth of less than 45mm to have it hitting. Is it really that short? My Kenko is 21mm deep.

I've used mine once, with the laser aiming light. Had trouble with adjusting the laser accurately. Only one or two shots were actually lit on the subject. Also, if you want to have fun but not get the shot, Gobies treat a laser dot the same way cats do. The goby I was trying to shoot kept chasing the dot. Thankfully, Nudibranchs didn't. I didn't have any problem with the unit falling off my YSD-1's. I haven't tried it with the strobe aiming light. I'll have to see if that works better.

Good luck! If you got the 15mm at that price, you stole it.

The listing states that it is a Morris lens. The strobe is a Morris strobe. You'll find a lot of Nikonos in Ebay US. There are a couple of vendors who specialized in Nikonos items if that's what you're looking for. I've had very nice results with Nikon SLR's in old housings, usually available for a couple of hundred dollars. The later versions, such as my F100 have pretty similar controls and functions to the newer Nikon digitals, use the same lenses and even shoot ttl with modern strobes that still use analog signals. If you get a Nikonos, you'll probably be stuck with the 35mm std. lens, unless you plan to spend big bucks on a wide angle.

'Bout time.

"Maybe it's time to try sandpaper instead of the Novus paste. I do like the orbital sander though - it made polishing heaps quicker! Not sure I'd be game to use it with sandpaper instead of the lambswool buffer." They use a handheld Velcro holder for the two grades of abrasive, 1000 and 2000 grit. I usually spend about half an hour carefully and evenly cutting the surface to keep it round before pulling out the drill and supplied buffing wheel and polish. You have to be really even or you'll flatspot the dome. My small dome comes from Bare and I can send it in for a new bubble if it gets really dinged up. He only makes them for Nexus, though, so I had to buy a Sea & Sea adapter for Nexus domes.

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8698 If the scratches aren't too deep, the headlight repair kits with sandpaper do fine. My friend took a razor to the top and bottom edges on his neoprene dome cover so it would go over more easily and stay on underwater. He just cut a groove to slip over the shade rings.

Nice vis for Cayman.

I use one of these http://www.divervision.com/deeproof-port-adapter-for-nexus-m5-ports-sspa-atsm5.html?search=port%20adapteron my MDX-D300 with a Bare dome port for 10-17/10-17+1.4 and 60mm AF-D. They make one for the M4 & M6 ports as well.

DOF preview button is generally on the front, to the right of the lens on Nikon. Set your camera, check your settings and then push the button to see what your picture will really look like.

http://www.divervision.com/deeproof-m67-lens-adapter-for-seasea-compact-macro-ports-m67-90ss?search=m67%20adapter%20for%20Sea%20&%20Sea This one is for the compact port. I have the NX standard port, but they're not listing that one anymore.

Did you bend out the contacts on the cap? Sometimes they get flattened out and lack tension. If your battery compartment has been previously flooded, even a little, you may have to install new contacts. Try the cap from your YS-D1 on the YS-110 first (they're the same). It'll cost about $150 to change the lower contacts and put a new cap on, but be forewarned that if that doesn't work the strobe is toast. They don't make the PC board for it anymore. I have two YS-110 paperweights in my cabinet, each of which I spent the $150 repairing three weeks before they quit for good. I was able to salvage the new $59 caps as spares for my YS-D1's.

Both of my YS-110's died about a year apart at 9-10 years. At that point they're generally unrepairable because Sea & Sea stops producing the PC board. If the strobes fire, they're probably fine. Besides your setting and distance from subject, make sure your strobes are timed correctly for the preflash. Take a picture in the mirror. If your flash doesn't show, your camera setting or your strobe setting is wrong for the camera.

http://www.seaandsea.co.jp/support/contact.html

Have you tried something like these http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/con-233/3-pin-connector-w/header-0.156/1.html Measure your spacing. These are .156

If you've already got an 11-16, I don't think there's any point in an 11-20. Difference is miniscule. 10-17 is a much more popular lens if you can get past the fisheye distortion thing. I've seen very nice pictures with the Nikon 18-35. The Sigma is 5mm smaller (72mm vs. 77mm filter) and has the same 11" minimum focal length. The Sigma is also internal focus and internal zoom. It's almost 5" long, so you'll need a lot of extension probably. If the length is similar to the Nikon, you might find specs that work. Good look with a zoom ring if nobody else is using it. Max. image reproduction is 1:4, so you're not going to get macro out of it.

Maybe OP is inquiring because these lenses are up for sale on e-bay in the $50-100 range, but minimum focus is 1.5meters, maximum image is .25 and God knows what the extended length is. The lens itself is almost 5". OTOH, if he's interested in a long lens, the Canon 180macro does 1:1 at .48m, is 7", weighs about 3lbs. and has internal focus.