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Larry C

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Everything posted by Larry C

  1. I put my Sea & Sea MDX-300 with 12" strobe arms in a Costco "Cooler bag". $10 for a big and small two pack and not so bulky.
  2. Have you tried without the diffusers? Are you shooting large subjects or CFWA? I have a YS-110 and a YS-D1. I have struggled with the YS-D1 to get rid of flare, even in relatively clear water. The YS-110 seems to have a softer edge and doesn't give me trouble. I've gone so far as to put the YS-110 half as far from the housing, but even with both of my 12" arms extended and the strobe pointed outward a bit, I'll still get flare at full power on the D1 unless the water is crystal clear. If you're shooting sharks or rays, try moving them all the way out and leaving off the diffusers. If you're shooting CFWA, turn them down and make sure they're pointed out.
  3. Pictures Mark? How does the focus speed, resolution and color representation compare with the D7100?
  4. The comparison of the red channel detail between the 7200 and the 7100 is interesting. I'm looking forward to seeing the results underwater, as the red channel is so important in strobe lit underwater shots. Has anyone got one underwater yet?
  5. The button looks a bit taller on the D7200 in all views. Hope that doesn't screw up the housing fit, like the multi selector button on the D300S did for the D300.
  6. http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/dslr-cameras/D7200.html?cid=EML-030315-Preorder Same sensor, new processor, 6 frames per second, built in WiFi, way better low light, new video features, more presets and white balance choices, built in time lapse. Same dimensions, maybe it will fit in the D7100 housing? $1199 body only. Or should you jump on left over D7100's and get one with 2 lenses for the same price?
  7. Or check these out. http://www.lenscoat.com/lenscoatreg-hoodiereg-xxxx-large-p-388.htmlI use an XXL on my 5" dome and it works great. Covers the dome and shade ring nicely and folds over the back of the shade ring a bit. I don't know if there biggest one will stretch over your 8" dome, but if it does, it's less than half the price of similar ones elsewhere. I think I paid $64.95 more my Backscatter cover on my Sea & Sea fisheye dome. They have theirs made locally and they are quite nice.
  8. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBAL-N10-UNDERWATER-HOUSING-FOR-NIKON-F100-/171660228064?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27f7bf35e0 Have fun! They come up on E-Bay US and GB quite frequently.
  9. Looks like everything above f5.6 is brilliant. Love the Gorgonian with the sunburst. Not fond of the background blur with the 20mm, but I imagine that's the lens.
  10. Until recently, all of the Olympus strobes were housed. I had the little strobe they sold for my SP-350, and it worked beautifully in ttl or manual mode. As someone else said, great for macro, but too narrow and too weak for wide angle. I've also seen a bunch of DIY posts for Vivitar strobes, which are a dime a dozen. Here's a DIY example: http://eocean.free.fr/projects/castorstrobe/indexstr.htm Others have used pipe, but it's awfully big that way.
  11. Terrific. Thanks for the help. I got the non HSM version, which is a bit smaller and fits fine in my dome. It looks like the Sigma 10-20 gear might be close. Otherwise, I have a spare Sea & Sea 60mm gear that I could alter or make a mold and build one out of resin. I'm looking forward to trying it on my F100 as the widest lens I had for full frame was my 35mm f2.0. One thing I really like about the lens is that it zooms inward for both ends of the range and the center area is only about 1/4" different. In reading reviews, people complained a bit about sharpness and contrast so we'll have to see.
  12. 2-1 macro @ 18cm (about 6") sounds interesting. It should allow some working distance compared to a Nikon 60mm. You'd have to measure the body and compare to other lenses to find a focus gear that will work.
  13. Thanks Juergen. Just got a good deal on one on E-Bay, and I plan to try it on my D300 and my F100. What extension length do you use with your smaller dome?
  14. Put it here and in the classified, and you might find a nut. They don't bring much on E-Bay. I got my NX-100 Pro and a spare for the parts to complete it for about $150 total (had to spend another $75 for a pair of Sea & Sea handles to complete it) and my N80 & N80S with Nexus housing for under $100. Biggest expense was the F100 at about $150, but I'm enjoying them quite a bit. As a bonus, all my Sea & Sea strobes do TTL with the film cameras with no converters of any sort. Good luck moving them, and hope someone will enjoy going back in time a bit. I'm more than happy with the quality of pictures I get using Fujichrome 100. Many folks like the results better than what I'm getting out of my D300 rig.
  15. You might want one of these or something similar: http://www.amazon.com/Wein-Products-W990560-SSHSHS-Safe-Sync/dp/B00009UU18 You should check the strobe draw with a voltmeter to see if it's safe for your camera as analog strobes can have a much higher signal strength.
  16. My suggestion would be a YS to ball mount, a 1/4-20 to ball mount, and whatever double ball extension you want, with two clamps between. http://www.backscatter.com/sku/na-72301.lasso http://www.backscatter.com/sku/ul-ba-hb.lasso http://www.backscatter.com/sku/na-72202.lasso http://www.backscatter.com/sku/ul-ac-csf.lasso
  17. These lenses are cheap and plentiful and have a fairly close focus. Anyone tried it? I haven't seen any zoom gears, so I assume there's a problem?
  18. According to some chatter on Nikonians and DPreview, the D800/810 will sync up to 1/800 with essentially a 20% crop of the bottom of the picture, so while you won't get the full field of view you'll get a bitter than DX crop of a full frame shot. At 1/400, it only crops about 10%. One poster on Nikonians illustrated with cropped shots of a white background shot with a D800 at 1/400, 1/720 and 1/800.
  19. All fixed. There's a paper collector on the flood sensor that stays wet. As long as it's wet, the light stays on and the strobe won't function. Thanks to Bob at Southern Nikonos, I dried it out and everything works.
  20. Thanks to Bob Warkentin at Southern Nikonos Repair, it's all fixed. He graciously sent me instructions on removing the top cover and drying out the leak sensor, which seemed to be the only issue, and now the strobe functions normally. Removed the hardened old o-rings and installed a fresh set and hopefully the problem won't be repeated.
  21. Also posted in strobe section. I neglected to change my o-ring and flooded the battery compartment. Flood signal stays on, strobe won't flash. Any hope?
  22. I flooded the battery compartment on my SB-104 and am getting the flood signal and no flash. Any hope for reasonable repair? I flushed it with clean water and dried it with rice, but no luck so far. Had a new set of o-rings and stupidly put off changing them.
  23. I have a Deep Proof adapter for my Subsee +10 on Sea & Sea. For that one, I had to remove the rubber ring from the standard port, but it snaps on nicely. It's a little bit clumsy to carry. You'll need a lanyard to hook to your BC or hang from the housing, unless you make a holder for the arm, but it's rather large and would get in the way. They're cheap, though and work fine.
  24. I don't think you have much choice at ISO 100. I've been using Fujichrome Velvia 100 but you're right, it costs twice as much and then you have to send it out for processing. I've been spending about $23 a roll to process and do quality scans. If you want standard scans I think it saves you $5. I send my slide film to The Darkroom in Southern Ca. and have them back in about a week with scans posted online in about 3 days.
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