Rick

I was interested in reading about the lbcast sensor as well and this is what I found http://www.nikon.co.jp/main/eng/society/tec-rep/lbcast.htm

Sorry - didn't realize the quoted price included VAT

The pound to dollar exchange rate on 11/22 was 1.70370 - this makes the camera $1,872.37 in US dollars.

Your signature line says you have a Fuji S2 Pro and an Ikelite housing. Were these shots taken with the Ikelite housing?

Wesley Thanks for the reply. Bulk, latches, and buoyancy were all things that I had read about in various refiews and forums. The fact that you are switching housings tells me that I should probably be more concerned about them. I just received a response from Sea and Sea to my email. I asked 4 questions and they answered one of them. One of my questions was do I need to order A or B and they responded "That is correct" - amazing. The scuba shop I deal with told me that their support was bad, but I really had no idea how bad. At this point, I've decided to take a closer look at other housings. Unfortunately, I have a dive trip in early August and was hoping to use my new D100 camera on that trip. But I think it's better to do my research and get it right. Didn't mean to turn this thread into a housing thread, Thanks again.

Can't help you on the ports, but I am interested in why you replaced your Sea and Sea housing (I assume it was the DX100) with an Aquatica housing. I have a D100 and was just about to order the Sea and Sea housing for it. Any comments you have would be appreciated. BTW, I'm having similar problems with Sea and Sea regarding port questions. I called them and emailed them about 10 days ago and haven't been able to get a response on a port question. That's the only reason I haven't ordered the housing yet.

Last week I sent an email to Ikelite asking whether their new housing for the D100 would support this lens. This is the email response I received. Unknown. I do not believe this lens is produced in the United States. You can measure the lens zoom ring diameter and fully extended length, and reference the lens port page below. You can also go to www.wetpixel.com to possibly find your answer. http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/slrport.html

James: Thanks. Your recommendation regarding the brand of diopter answered my final question.

Ike, thanks for the reference - that explained it very well. For wide angle, I am considering the 18-35mm f/3.5-4.5D AF Zoom-Nikkor. Comments about image quality, depth of field, etc. from anyone who has used this lens with a diopter would be greatly appreciated. Also, since the minimum focus distance for the lens is 1 foot, it seems to be right on the edge of whether or not the diopter is required. Again, any comments would be appreciated.

I’m in the process of upgrading my camera and have narrowed it down to either the Nikon D100 or the Fuji S2 Pro. In looking at the different housings for these cameras, I ran across a note on the Ikelite web site that says a +4 diopter is required for zoom lenses. None of the other housings that I’ve looked at seem to have this as a requirement. I’ve never used diopters before and was wondering what if anything this does to image quality, depth of field, etc. Also, I’m curious why it’s needed.

Ike Thanks for offering to send a rubber pad - hopefully that will resolve the rotation/becoming loose problem. Other than this minor issue I have been really pleased with the strobe, tray, and ttl sensor. Now I am considering a second strobe (DS-125), but was informed by your tech support people that your double handle tray does not fit the PT-010 or PT-015 case. To bad - I would have liked the flexibility of using either the single or double handle tray with the same quick disconnect arm attachments.

In October I purchased an Ikelite DS-125 strobe kit (#3973.65) which was listed on their website for the PT-010 case. So, I assume that I got the correct tray for my case. The tray does have stops that contact the feet on bottom of camera housing - unfortunately, they don't stop the rotation completely. On another thread someone suggested using a rubber fender washer. I'll try that on my next dive trip in May. I personally find the rotation to be an annoyance

I've read in other threads on this formm that "on a preflash camera (like Oly c4040) you can use the manual settings on the DS-125 in lieu of TTL..........However, the strobe can't double flash on full power.....so you can only use 1/2 power and below" (quote from Karl) I assume that with the manual sensor and an Oly c4040 there would still be a problem with powering the double flash. Since there are ten power settings, is it just the full power setting that has the problem or are some of the settings below full power effected as well?