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Everything posted by Jock

  1. Regulator: A couple of years ago I bought a Poseidon Xstream - and for me it is perfect. It has a side exhaust, similar to the Hollis mentioned above. No bubbles in front of your mask; it is streamlined so there is almost no drag in a current. It does not protrude much, so it will not interfere with a housing. The regulator is bullet-proof, the inner construction seems to be simple but very effective - and I find it very comfortable to breath with. Both the Poseidon and the Hollis are a little bit "exotic", so if you should go for one of these it might be a good idea to know where to find a qualified/certified service center... Jock
  2. When I went digital wit an Olympus E-M5 in a Nauticam housing and my two trusty Inon Z240 strobes I was completely disappointed by the strobe exposure results (Macro / TTL) - mostly under-, but sometimes completely overexposed. Manual was never a problem. I had spent a lot of money on the equipment - except for the fiber optic cables, they were a cheap no-name brand. And exactly those cables were the problem. Can't remeber if it was here or in another forum where a fellow photographer recommended the use of multicore Sea&Sea cables. And bingo! - No more problems since I used these cables. They also reliably work with my YS-110a and both my Inon S2000 backup strobes. No experience with the YS-D series. I think it was this guy who told me that not only some strobes, but also the Olympus TTL protocol (at least on an E-M5) is very picky... Maybe you can borrow a high quality cable from a friend and test it with your before buying? Hope this helps.
  3. Color Temp seems to be 5,800K without / 5,500K with diffusor. A bit blueish, IMHO.
  4. Renting out UW-Photo gear? You are tempting the gods... Maybe you know Bob Halstead? He wrote „NEVER LEND YOUR CAMERA GEAR TO ANYONE IN ANY CIRCUMSTANCES (This is the Gods’ absolute favourite, the gear is certain to stuff up)“ - and I think most forum members will fully agree. Here you can find the full essay: http://www.divebuddy.com/blog/11135/cant-take-joke-dont-take-up-underwater-photography/
  5. It could be helpful if you gave some more infos: Where do you dive most of the time - tropical/clear water or in areas with limited visibility? Only on holiday or every other weekend? (Analogy alert: I need a new car, which one could you recommend?) That said, ask three people and get four opinions... As troporobo said, the 12-50mm is a versatile lens - this is the first lens I would buy, together with the Nauticam port. Good for Macro, good for wide angle, If you are a "macro guy", the second lens would be the 60mm macro from Olympus (or maybe a 45/30mm macro if most of your dives are in murky waters). If you are more into wide angle, the Panasonic 7-14mm is a great lens, even for close-focus WA. And an acrylic port is "good enough" (unless you regularly publish in National Geographic). A fisheye lens is definitively not a good lens to start with - IMHO! Of course you could buy the the Oly "Pro"-line lenses, but do they give you a guarantee for better pics? Nope. A good way to spend the money you save with cheaper lenses is to join an UW-photo workshop. You come from a compact camera, your EM5 will give you much more options for better pics - but also much more options to screw things up... A workshop might be a good investment. The key factor for good pics is behind the camera. Best, Jock p.s.: Here in the forum there is an old thread about UW settings for the E-M5. Or look here: http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/olympus-omd-em5-best-underwater-settings
  6. If the "AmazonBasics Convertible Rolling Camera Backpack" weighs 4.25kg - what do you want to put inside? Camera-Gear? Have fun at the airport... I use an EastPak "Hatchet" which itself is very lightweight (780g). With all the gear that I do not want to check-in it is well above the airlines cabin luggage weight restrictions (economy class) - but it does not look heavy! Absolutely no problems up to now...
  7. Bob, are you still using your Olympus OM-D? I have an E-M5 and used to have exactly the same problems with inconsistent TTL exposure you describe. I was told the fiber optic cables could be the problem - I had cheap ones - and that was it! I bought one Sea&Sea and one Nauticam cable. No more problems since then. But still, as I wrote in an earlier post, IMHO background exposure in Macro with sync speeds of 1/125sec and below and small apertures is NOT dependent on sync speed. So you do not get a darker background (which was the „opener“ in this thread) when using 1/250s instead of 1/125s. The burning time of the strobe is shorter anyhow, so it does not matter what exposure time you set. Pavel probably knows if I am right or wrong. Regards Jock
  8. As I wrote before, a fisheye lens is another option.
  9. If you have a Pana Fisheye and the Nauticam 3.5" dome - take it with you!
  10. Thanks for the photos, Tom For me (without underwater testing, just by comparing the specs) the "want-to have" strobe would be the Seacam: small, beautiful design, 4.400K colour temperature, 130° coverage (GN8 metric / around GN25 imperial), accessories like diffusor, snoot available. When I changed from analog to digital I changed from Ikelite SS200 to Inon Z240. What I really missed was the circular flash tube from the Ikelite. For my personal taste the Ikelite gave a much more "pleasant" lighting; maybe because of the circular tube, maybe because of the colour temperature, or maybe bcause of a combination of both). The Seacam has this circular flash tube, the other two not. BUT: For the price of one 60D you can buy two Inons or Retras....
  11. I am not sure if the 30mm macro lens makes sense underwater. Macro lenses are optimized for - guess what - macro. But with the 30mm lens subject distance definintively will be too close when used in macro mode. As you mentioned, difficult/impossible lighting, and of course only for static subjects. Of course you can use the lens for subjects further away and have less water between the fish or whatever and your lens than with the 60mm lens - but why not use a zoom lens instead? Much more versatile. Jock
  12. Well, maybe because you have to be very brave to be a beta-tester??? If a few pre-production strobes work great on one or two dive trips that does not mean anything. See the problems Sea&Sea has, lots of complaints here in the forum. The Inon strobes are workhorses and over the years have proven to be reliable. Not a bad choice at all!
  13. Hi Marcus, if you have access to a 3D printer (or if such a printing service is available in Brazil) you can find and download a file for printing the Zoom Gear Panasonic 7-14mm on thingiverse.com. Should be cheaper than the Nauticam part. Greetings, Jock
  14. I have the Leak Sentinel (in a Nauticam Housing) and can absolutely recommend it. As Jack mentioned, it constantly monitors the vacuum, even if you switch it off in the evening and back on in the morning!
  15. Ha! Yesterday I disassembled an old non-functional FL2 myself and wanted to post photos and the very same question as well. Funny. Hope someone can help.
  16. The Z240s are workhorses. With a new strobe, be it Inon or Retra, you never know if there will be problems in the first productions. Sea&Sea seems to be infamous for that kind of trouble... Of course you can travel with your gear on Qantas - the question is if they will let you take it into the cabin! From what I have heard (! - never flew with them) they seem to be very strict with the weight of your carry-on bag.
  17. Maybe I need a new pair of glasses, but I cannot find any infos about the new vacuum pump on Miso's website; same for the price. Could someone help, please? Jock
  18. Did you swap the fiber-optic cables? As I wrote in a different thread, with my setup (E-M5 and 2*Z240 or 1*YS110a) the flash problems were caused by the cables. Jock
  19. In his book "The Underwater Photographer" Martin Edge recommends to use Shutter priority ( if avoiding motion blur is important) or Aperture priority (if high depth of filed is important) in a situation you describe - you will probably shoot at different angles, with the sun, with side lighting and against the sun. He says that with fully manual camera settings there is a chance that you miss the one or other shot because you fiddle with your camera. Just a thought. Jock
  20. You might try to cross-change the cables to see if one of them is responsible - I personally had severe TTL problems with my EM5 I and a YS110a until I changed from no-name to a genuine S&S fiber optic cable. From then on TTL was fine. A dealer at the Boot exhibition told me that from customer feedback some Oly cams seem to be very sensitive concerning TTL. He said that in many cases the cables are responsible. On his advice I tried the S&S cable - et voila!
  21. Thanks! Did not know about Tinkercad - it is really not too complicated to use. I played around with it a little and could personalize the knobs, i.e. engrave my name on the top :-) I had my knobs printed with "glow in the dark" pla. On 3dhubs.com a knob costs me around 3 EUR here in Germany, pla or abs. Do you think abs is a better choice? Jock
  22. A while ago I downloaded an .stl file from Thingiverse for an Inon strobe knob. I had the knob printed and used it for a few dives in cold water with thick gloves. It was absolutely no problem to operate the strobe knobs with this add-on, BUT: The knobs had a tight fitting in the beginning, after 10-15 dives they lost friction, and I lost two of them. Next time I will use some silicone (I am a dentist and have access to low viscosity silicone...) to give them a better friction. And there is something else that - IMHO - could be improved: As you can see in the attached picture, the "arrowhead" of the knob is quite small. I wish it was bigger, like in the "Photoshopped" version on the right side of the pic (with a quick glimpse you could see more easily to what position the knobs are set). The file is no longer available on Thingiverse, and I cannot find any contact infos for the uploader, Grega Verč, to ask him for a modification. I have absolutely zero experience with 3D modelling or how to modify the .stl-file, Is someone here whom I might bother to ask to do this for me - and others, of course? I attach the .stl-file; hope it is not against any netiquette and there is no copyright trouble (as far as I remember, the file was offered under a CC license, and I used it just for me, strictly non-commercial)? To flatten the top of the knob or not is just personal taste. Regards, Jock INON-knob.stl.zip
  23. Hi Brook, maybe this the thingy you are looking for? : http://www.heinrichsweikamp.com/?id=43 (In the upper right corner you can switch between German and English) You still will need your main strobe to trigger the remote one! (If you do not want that you will need a very long cable...) The remote strobe will have a cable to which the RSU is connected, The RSU needs to face your main strobe whereas the remote strobe can face any direction and/or can be hidden. The triggerfish is/was a non-commercial DIY-solution. No idea about Seacam, but you could contact them. Greetings, Jock
  24. jahjahwarrior, thanks for pointing me to 3dhubs - it is just the service I was looking for. Today I received my Inon knobs made of glow-i-the dark filament; they fit perfect. Just a hint: When ordering these knobs it may be a good idea to ask for 100% fill (=solid). Seems that a standard fill is only 20%, so there might be the possibility that the knobs will crack or lose shape or whatever deep down. I was charged less than 20 cent extra per knobs. Jock
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