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Neil W

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Everything posted by Neil W

  1. Selling an Olympus PTWC-01 wide angle lens in good condition. The lens has a magnification of 0.6 giving a 100 degree angle of view underwater. This lens has the standard 67mm thread and will fit any housing that accepts 67mm wet lenses. This is a large and solid lens which is very sharp across the entire frame including the corners. Using an RX100 I could zoom through the entire range and the image was still sharp. The optical quality is better than the Inon UWL-100 series. A stainless steel saddle is fitted to allow a lanyard to be attached. There are a few micro scratches on the front glass - see photos. These have no effect on image quality. Priced at US$280 including shipping to US, UK and Western Europe (the item is in Australia). Shipping time is approx 7 to 10 days. Please contact me at: neilwin@iinet.net.au
  2. Hi Everyone I am selling a Light & Motion Sola 3500 plus video light in excellent condition. The light is in full working order and has only been used on one dive. It is fitted with a dome port which gives a wide diffused beam of 110 degree underwater - this is normally $99 extra. See here: https://www.lightandmotion.com/under-one-roof/articles/the-sola-dome-port-optic/ This model has been discontinued and replaced by the Sola Video Pro LE which retails at $699. https://www.backscatter.com/Light-Motion-Sola-Video-Pro-LE-Underwater-Video-Light A standard 1 inch ball mount is included. The photos show an AU plug fitted to the charger, US and EU plugs are also included. Asking price is US$345 plus shipping (approx US$25 to the US or Europe). The item is located in Perth, Australia. I can be contacted on: neilwin@iinet.net.au Payment is via Paypal.
  3. Housing, float arms and clamps are sold. Trays are still available.
  4. Other accessories: 2 x 8 inch generic carbon fibre float arms (280g buoyancy each) in good condition with a few minor surface scuffs - US$40 each 2 x Ultralight AC-CSL long clamps in near new condition - US$45 for the pair.
  5. Here is a photo of the trays with handles - will get photos of the other accessories up tomorrow.
  6. The housing is still available. Quite a few accessories available - trays and handles along with various arms/float arms and clamps for reasonable prices. I have a brand new (never been in the water) Nauticam Flexitray II with left handle (no ball mount) and screws - US$75 T-mount or Locline mounts for handle - $15 per pair. I also have a used Ultralight TRD Tray with TR-DHB left handle (incl 1 inch ball mount) and screws in good condition - US$55 Please contact me for prices on arms and clamps.
  7. Price reduced to US$400 including free shipping to USA and Europe.
  8. I am selling a Recsea WHS-RX100ii housing for the Sony RX100 Mk2 camera. The housing is just over 12 months old and is in excellent condition having always been washed and cleaned after each dive and o-rings always serviced. I returned the housing to Backscatter recently for warranty work on the front control ring. This was replaced and Backscatter also serviced the housing replacing all o-rings on the buttons and other control fittings. I have also just had the port glass replaced. The housing has not been used since being serviced and the replacement of the port glass – it is effectively the same as a new housing bar a few minor scuff marks on the base. Included with the housing are 2 new o-rings, 3 port to 67mm adapters and all of the accessories that originally came with the housing. I have upgraded to the RX100 Mk5 so I had to buy a new housing (why can’t they make them all the same) These housings currently sell new at Blue Water for US$820. I am asking US$475 – this includes free express shipping to the US and Western Europe (the item is located in Perth, Australia). Please contact me for shipping quotes to other countries. Payment is via Paypal. I can be reached on neilwin@iinet.net.au High Res photos are available at: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ep6zpwrmbepz1x5/AAAPmglaoDcw5vmbzELULZWJa?dl=0 Cheers, Neil
  9. Hi Nico I have been using the RX100 V for about 4 months after previously using the MkII and MkIV. My experience is that any model of the RX100 does a poor job of auto white balance. I tried the UW white balance and the color temperature jumps all over the place - this is a big issue when shooting video which is my main use for the MkV. As I dive in shallow water I now set white balance to daylight, at least it will then be consistent and can be adjusted in post where necessary. From what I have read doing a manual white balance with the RX100 is not very successful either. Other than that it is a superb camera - the focusing ability is amazing. I recommend using a fixed white balance - choose a color temperature you find works best. Cheers, Neil
  10. In my (limited) experience I have found that having to tighten clamps excessively to prevent strobe arms from moving can be a sign that the O-rings on the balls need replacing - a new O-ring provides much more friction than a worn O-ring. Try to get the correct O-ring for your strobe arms as each manufacturer uses a slightly different thickness O-ring or a different sized groove to hold the O-ring. If your gear has had a bit of use then try replacing all of the O-rings on the arms - it can't do any harm. Again - don't use cheap aftermarket O-rings. If you have a clamp attaching 2 arms from different manufacturers you may find there is more friction in the ball/socket joint of one arm compared to the other - try to keep to the same brand. I like using ULCS, Inon and Howshot clamps. I had problems with I-Das/I-Dive clamps scratching the balls as they needed to be done up particularly tight (even with new O-rings). On close inspection I noticed that the surface area of the socket that mates to the ball is much less on the cheaper I-Dive clamps than on the expensive brands (Inon, ULCS etc). Having a smaller area of contact between the ball and the socket seems to require the clamp to be tighter to obtain the same level of friction (keep in mind that this can be masked or magnified by clamps having a fine or coarse thread). I also suspect that the manufacturing tolerances and quality control would be superior with the more expensive brands - the ball and socket need to be a good match in terms of size and shape. Hope that helps.
  11. The photos show an Inon UWL-H100 with dome. Is this for sale or is it a UWL-04 ?
  12. Hi Saridnour I have 2 Olympus UFL-1's and I have experienced exactly the same problem as you describe. In my case it was due to using inferior DIY fibre optic cables (modified Toslink cables). What is happening is that the weak pre-flash signal is not getting through to the strobes. They do receive the main flash signal but they assume this is the pre-flash and then sit obediently waiting for the main flash signal which never comes. Everything is fine when working in manual is there is no (weak) pre-flash - just the main flash signal which is far stronger. This can be quite tricky to trouble shoot. You can get away with poor cables in manual but not with TTL. You have never seen the green light on the strobe because it has never operated correctly in TTL mode due to the cable. Buy yourself a good quality cable from a recognised brand - I suggest Sea & Sea. Make sure it is a multi-core cable, not single core. They are not cheap but they should last forever and you wont have any further sync problems. The UFL-1 is a basic slave TTL flash - it should work with almost any camera. Set both the camera and flash to TTL (fill-in on some cameras). Hope that helps.
  13. Get your self an accurate set of fishing scales (electronic) and weigh your rig in the water while hanging it from the scales (above water) using a piece of rope. You need to know exactly the weight of your rig in the water under different configurations (lenses, strobes etc) before you can purchase float arms or floats. I went through this exercise recently, it was tedious but the float arms I eventually bought were exactly the right buoyancy for my rig. You might also want to look at Inon float arms - very robust.
  14. The quality of the soft light from the dome diffuser is beautiful - something that would get portrait photographers excited. It also has a much better spread and it appears a higher color temperature than the flat diffuser. Thanks for this owfotograaf, it will come in handy in the future.
  15. I want to send a PM = can't see how to do it. Please send me a PM or email to neilwin@iinet.net.au
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