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Everything posted by Nemo

  1. The 17 - 70 F 3.5 might be slow based on film experience but a 50MM is not wide enough for even everyday land use. Remember you have to multiply the lens focal lenghth by 1.5 to get the functional focal length for your digital body. A 50 becomes a 75. Back to the original question for UW use I would go witht he Nikon for the wide angle lens offerings that are currently available. 10.5 and the 12 - 24.
  2. I have taken a different approache to this issue. I use a 1650 pelican case and remove the foam. I pack all of my camera gear, regs, lights, stobes, computers, etc, wrapped in clothes, drysuit underwear etc in the Pelican and I check it. This leaves my carry on very light with just my dive computer and a few personal items, reading material, & laptop if I am bringing one. Since some of the remote locations I go to are very critical of wgt. I have witnessed them pull carry ons they deem too heavy and have them checked. This may leave your camera without sufficent protection in the cargo hold. Dozens of trips over 10's of thousands of miles and not one damaged item. I do have insurance too.
  3. What is everyone using for compact flash - size, speed, maker? Also any special sources that are offering good prices? Nemo
  4. I do a fair amount of wreck diving in the Great Lakes in the USA which seems similar to what I see in your pictues. I use a small but very bright and highly focused light for focusing. Shooting wide angle you can generally get pretty close to your subject and this light works well for me, it is a UK SL6. and it should ride well on your scotter. Nikon recently introduced a 10.5 MM lens that should fit your wide angle needs. All of that aside when can I come to Finland to dive with you?
  5. I notice on Nikon USA's site they have a D70 package listed with a 18-70 AFS DX lens. However they dont list any availability. Anyone know when they are expected in the states? and an estimated street price?
  6. Nemo

    Inon UWL 130 Dome

    I have been holding out to see what happens at PMA but ifnothing earth shattering happens Ill go with the D100. Seems like a better selection of glass and housings for UW use. Nemo
  7. I am on my way to a DSLR so Im paring down my current system. I bought this Inon 130 dome last summer for a trip to Scapa Flow in Sept. It is in new condition, with the box, instructions, and Neoprene cover. I am only selling the dome not the UWl 100 lens behind it. By the way it works great, I have shots of wreck structure you just could not do without it. $300.00 email me at mike@horseworks.com to discuss. I can run CC's through my company to ease the pain. Nemo
  8. I have been diving with a Tetra (and YS90DX strobes) in cold water for three years. I dive with SI Tech dry gloves and have no problem working any of the controls. Hands never get cold even with light wgt liners in water below 40 degrees F. Dexterity is better than any neoprene glove even the Soft hands which I have a pair of.
  9. I have too much stuff. My overindulgence may set you up with some savings. All of it looks, feels, and smells brand new. Ultralight arm with the following components: 1 - AD1032 Threaded adapter 1 - 5" Arm 1 - 12" arm 3 - Clamps 1 - Adss Sea & Sea strobe adapter List price for all of this is $232 yours for $175 (NEW I sold the arm but still have a 5" section for $30.00) I have another 5" arm available which you could exchange for the 12" arm in the package above. You can also delete the strobe adapter &/or the threaded adapter if you dont need it and take $15.00 off the price for each. Dual Sync cord Nikonos type bulkhead to Sea & Sea $100.00 (never flooded) Sea & Sea YS90Duo TTL with lube, orings, manual, diffuser, & 4 NiMh batteries - $350.00 (never flooded) Pelican 1550 case with foam. I set the foam up for my Tetra housing, lens, arms, etc. You will need to make adjustments or buy new foam. $75.00 For more details or to haggle email me at mike@horseworks.com or you can call during the business day at 518-843-6756 ask for Mike. My company accepts MC, Visa, & Amex to help ease the pain. Nemo
  10. I have an Ansmann that does 12 AA NiMh. It is a smart cahrger and I have to go with scubastu. Mine has worked when others have failed. Nemo
  11. Just starting to shop for my upgrade to DSLR and am curious whether anyone sees any advantage in the D1x over the D100 (while UW). Already know there are fewer housing choices. Nemo
  12. 2 more cents: I dove the NiTek 3 since the year it was introduced until this past June and loved it. The display really is not hard to read however it does have some features that sometimes make it frustrating when programing gases. If you dont lock your gas in before you hit the water, or if you inadvertantly start the dive on the wrong gas you are going to get a warning and will have to return to the surface to correct the situation. Not fun. When I upgraded to a Trimix computer I went for the VR3 since you can program gases on the fly even in the water. All of the same features of the NitecHe but in a completely bombproof Aluminum housing that could be used as a tire tool and still work. You can buy it as Nitrox only at first and then upgrade it to mix later if you wish.
  13. Hi Bob, Consider this. I have been diving since 1972 my wife of 10 years (do the math) is not interested in water sports. We manage to plan vacations were I am able to get some good diving in and she does not feel left alone. We make it a point to go to larger full (and I mean full) service resorts with spas etc. So when I am off for a morning of diving she is getting a massage, or enjoying some quite time with a book by the pool. I am very lucky in that A understands my passion for the water and I do get off on dive only trips without her a few times a year also, but even if this wasnt the case I am pretty sure I wouldnt sell my gear. If you would like some resort suggestions I would be happy to make some. This might be time for a talk rather than a sale. Theres my 2 cents worth.
  14. I am using 2000 mAh NiMh too. I spent 14 days straight in seawater with 2 YS90Dx and not one issue. Regarding chargers the I have one that does do 12 batteries at once. 4 for the camera and 4 for each strobe. It is a smart charger so it auto switches for the input voltage regardless of what country you are in.
  15. James you are right it is the issue with the buttons, not the housing. Except maybe the PT's. L & M Tetra Housings are rated to 325'. They did have an issue with the spring strength in the shutter release being too strong for divers who use it in predominately shallow water and I understand that they softened the spring. Mine luckily has the stiffer one for deeper water. I have had it to 230 and it functioned flawlessly. I would suggest the Tetra for a Oly 5050. It gives him the 5MP he wants in a very small package compared to DSLR's (which should also be a concern of his) Add the Inon 100 degree for 20MM or the 130 for something wider and he is good to go. Tell him to ask L&M about the spring strength so he gets the one he needs. One other thing to consider will be to preset all of the camera controls for the planned shot for the dive, turn it all on before getting in the water, test fire it on the boat and dont turn anything off until back on the boat. At 250 there isnt time to do much of anything and task loading can add up pretty quick. My only other question is what sub and is there still room on the boat?
  16. The size of your carry on when going to Europe or the UK is an issue. My dive partner has had his taken and checked at the gate, which isnt the best place for it to happen at the last minute. The other issue you will run into is when you are flying smaller aircraft on short legs. The overheads and area under the seats are not large enough for bigger bags and again they will check the bag at the gate. If you are carrying a bag with gear that cant take the luggage handleing you might be in for something broken. When I travel with the load you are disccusing I use a pelican 1620 as one of my checked bags but I take the foam out and wrap all of my camera equipment, 4 regs, and computers in my cloths, and drysuit underwear. My other bag ( a giant duffle) ends up with the heavy stuff, drysuit, BC, fins etc. Nemo
  17. I have been making custom lens covers for some time and since I own the Onon 130 dome I have a standard pattern for it. 3MM neoprene deep enough to reach the back of the dome and a shock cord draw string with cord lock. See attached photos.
  18. I do something similar with the fastex buckles but I flip the strobes in between the arms and use only one snap on the outer arms which captures the strobes and holds the wholes rig together. This way I only have one buckles to open rather than three.
  19. For all around best of everything type suit I have found the shell Otter suits excellent. The cordura material they use is heavier than any other I have seen. (and I have seen them all since I manufacture for the dive industry) They use 6 pitch BDM zippers whcih are the best made. Their latex seals are heavier than any I have seen in a US suit maker. They have real boots. This material is just as tough as crushed neoprene and dries nearly as fast as a lighter wgt shell suit like the CF 350. They have the most complete list of options there is and the price was so affordable I thought they made a mistake. www.drysuits.co.uk Check them out.
  20. I had the same problem with neoprene gloves, but in water that cold I use dry gloves which have much better dexterity and the knobs are no longer a problem.
  21. I generally am doing deep dark dives and use a SL4 or SL6 C cell light. While it is not diffused I have never had a hot spot in an image. To mount it to my Ultralight arm I use a triple clamp at the housing and a C cell light adapter in the third position.
  22. If the current is really that strong you may not want your camera with you. You might need both hands to hang on.
  23. I have purchased both of these in the USA and the price you quoted is much less than I paid. I quess I am going to start shopping in Japan.
  24. O2 on the right, nitrox on the left.
  25. I dive with 1 or 2 stage bottles (steel 45's) on almost every dive. Once you are accustomed to the side mounts adding the camera shouldnt be a problem. Ditto tshepherd's comment - master the stage(s) first without the camera. You will know when you have it right when you can take them off and switch sides underwater comfortably. Also use LARGE bolt snaps on both the neck and waist they are easier to get hold of when you cant see them and they wont trap lines, hoses etc. like a carabiner type will.
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