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Nemo

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Everything posted by Nemo

  1. Power converters when traveling over seas. I finally found a comercial step up /down converter that can handle it, but it is heavy. Never had a strobe quit. Mike
  2. Eric, I am not sure why the OMS website hasnt been updated but I have one of the slotted stainless plates sitting in my office right now. Regarding the concern raised in some of the other posts regarding the wing rotating on the bands. Most divers who frequently use plates with singles run a zip tie or small bolt through the holes that are not being used between the wing and the plate. The only other thing to consider with some of the wings mentioned are that some of them do not have bladders inside a shell, the shell itself is the aircell. Although less expensive to manufacture this is a concept that has been the subject of great debate for years. If numbers carry any weight in this there are many more wings & BC's with bladders than without. Mike
  3. Hey Eric, If you have decided to go with a plate/harness/wing arrangement you might wish to consider either Abyssmal plate or the NEW OMS plate as they do not require a single tank adapter for use witha single. They are slotted right out of the box and you only need the cam bands. This is both lighter and more compact. Mike
  4. A first question you may need to answer for yourself is how much lift you need for the diving conditions you will be in and the rig you will be diving. Big waves require more lift to keep your head high enough out of the water, as do heavy twinsets. I am rather small in build so a wing is my flotation of choice so I have a less incumbered torso for attaching cameras etc, and more freedom of movement. The BC I use for tropical travel is the OMS IQ with a AL plate inside, and a 45# lift wing, very light, comfortable, adjustable, and compact. Enough lift for any single cylinder or light twinsets. For cold water travel or when diving heavy twinsets or somewhere with the potential for big waves I use the same OMS IQ but with a 100# lift wing. I switch between the AL plate and the SS plate depending on whether I am driving for flying to the dive desintation. I will use the SS so I can drop 5 lbs of lead off my wgt harness. If you are really straped for wgt. you can use the IQ with no plate. The IQ gives the following advantages over a conventional plate system (which I dove for years before switching) The IQ is: Easier to get in and out of Easier to adjust for differences in suit thickness More comfortable Easier to switch from Singles to twinsets (does not need an adapter, just add cam bands) Thenew IQ (since 2000) is not much bulkier than a plate with harness and back pad. As far as the second stage on the Inflator, I wouldnt recomend it. First none of them breath very well and in an emergency why would you want to compound the situation with that concern. Also when you are approached by an out of air diver you will need to give him your primary and then take the inflator for yourself, (the hose to too short to share) now bouyancy control isnt the greatest since you are breathing on your inflator. The Octo can have a slightly longer hose and your can stay at arms length from a potentially dangerous diver. Go with the Octo....
  5. I have been using 2 YS90DX strobes for 2 years now and they have been working flawlessly shooting manual and wide angle with my digital rig. The manual strobe control is on the strobe but I haven found it to be an issue even with cold water dry gloves on. A big plus with these strobes are that they use standard AA batteries so you can carry back up batteries for next to nothing or find new ones when traveling. Price isnt too bad either. Having said all of that I have some Ike strobes to that are great when you need a sun load of light.
  6. I am parting with my Dive Rite NiTek 3 computer. This is a 3 gas Nitrox computer which allows you to set your breathing gases for the dive and switch between gases during the dive. Has warnings for accent rate, PO2, missed deco etc. it can also run in gage mode when diving tables. Very easy to use, and it runs conservative schedules. It has nearly matched backup tables cut from Abyss with 20% safety factors. The computer interface allows the dive data from the NiTek to be uploaded to your PC. This is an item that I played with but never used regularly. I just moved to a Trimix computer and dont need this one anymore. Included are: NiTek 3 Deluxe elastic wrist strap computer interface for uploading dives software for above serial cable for interface hard case hose mounting bracket instruction manual lens protector $350 negotiable
  7. I amlooking for a dual sync cord for a Nikonos bulkhead to 2 sea & sea strobes. If anyone has one they wish to sell or trade let me know. Nemo
  8. Nemo

    ULCS 12" Arm

    I have one too many 12" Ultra light arms so one is up for grabs, it is in new condition. $38.00 and USPS will deliver it anywhere in the 48 states for $3.85. My company accepts MC, Visa, & Amex for your convieniance. If anyone is intersted in a trade I need a ULCS Sea & Sea strobe adapter, a clamp, and a angled dove tail adapter. Let me know and we can work out something equitable. Nemo
  9. It will open the field of view to 130 degrees. Nemo
  10. An earlier thread mentioned the 100 dome was available in Europe and Japan. Any word on when it might hit the shelves in the USA?
  11. All of these guys are right about equalizing the air in the glove. A tube, a cocktail straw, piece of string etc all work. If you are brave a few pin holes in the wrist seal do it too but you are comitting to using the glove 100% of the time then. I actually have the problem of air leaking into the glove at depth and then growing as I surface. The worst one was from about 170' and the glove looked like a 5 eared Mickey Mouse baloon. Didnt blow of the ring though. I spent my deco trying to push the air back into my wrist seal. At least I didnt get board on that hang. Here is another big tip too. The actual blue gloves that SI sells with the glove system are just triple dipped chemical resistant gloves that can be had for less than $15.00 not the $45 that SI charges. I buy them by the dozen for my business so if anyone wants replacement gloves let me know and I will hook you up. I had my dive partner just buy the rings from SI's US distributor and I gave him a set of my gloves.
  12. This is a perfect opportunity for someone to get into one of the most comfortable and versitile BC/harness systems available. I have the NEW design IQ in either a M/L or XL your choice, and a 55 lb. lift wing. These are all brand new and have never been wet. The IQ can be used with single cylinders with or without a back plate (plate not included) or dbl cylinders with the plate. Fully padded, comfortable and very adjustable. Large 2" D rings at both shoulders, and on both hips. There are also 6 - 1" D's on both sides of the back for attaching light canisters, argon bottles or the like. A wide range of pockets are available to add to this harness. If you need pockets ask and I can include your choice. See it at www.omsdive.com The BC wing is the non retraction type with 55 pounds of lift. Plenty of lift for any size single cylinder or a light set of dbls. Asking $450.00 or will negotiate a trade for one of the following strobes if in new or nearly new condition: Sea & Sea 90DX or 120 Ike DS125, SS200 or SS400 email me at mike@horseworks.com for discusion
  13. I have a 90DX and dont have problems with either 5MM neo gloves or my dry gloves. However for those of you who are diving dry and havent switched to dry gloves yet - DO IT. Hugh difference in dexterity and your hands will be as warm as the rest of your body. Im using the SI TECh gloves with adapter rings in my wrist seals. You can pick up a dime from a wet piece of glass with these. Nemo
  14. I have the same lens and shoot with a 90DX and get good coverage. AS far as sync is concerned use a sync cord, simple enough, works every time.
  15. I have the 100 degree lens on a Tetra and dont have a problem.
  16. You might have 2 issues here. I tend to think the headaches are CO2 and a switch to nitrox rather than air might have a profound effect on both the headaches and the exhaustion. The vomiting may be a separate issue. You mentioned your cumberbund felt like is was getting tight from a bloated stomache. You might be swallowing air during the dive causing the bloating and subsequent vomiting.
  17. Im on my 4th suit and have owned one of evrything Vulcanized, crushed neo, 5MMneo, and my current suit is a custom made cordura trilam from Otter in the UK. I liked the crushed neo but the cost is high and not as durable as my current suit,are expensive to maintain and slow to dry. Drag used to be an issue with the trilams but if the suit fits you close it should not be a problem. Uncompressed neo is useless. The change in bouyancy with depth is just as bad as a wetsuit. Since suit compression happens when you need the most insulation (at depth) you have to wear just as much underwear as any other suit which means you roast at the surface or during a deco hang. They are also heavy, hard to move in, and take a week to dry. The dry time can be a big issue if you are flying to/from dive sites and a wet suit is going to add too much to your bag weight.
  18. Careful with this type cover in the water. You might find you cant remove it under pressure if it is a close fit. Wouldnt that suck.
  19. If you are shooting manula why not use a sync cord and turn off the internal strobe. This will fix the backscatter, save camera battery life, and get you the exposures you want. Nemo
  20. There really isnt a need to shoot so fast underwater. Cut your shutter speed down and pick up a few f stops that way. Since the water dampens your movement more than air your should be able to shoot at slower shutter speeds than you can above water. Personally my sweat spot as you say is f8 at 1/60. More depth of field and all the light you need. Nemo
  21. I have been using a Iomega Photoshow which is a 250 MB external Zip drive that has slots for direct down load of both Compact Flash and Smartmedia. Just plug it in insert a disk and your media push a button and away it goes. It confirms a successful download and if you want it has video outs so you can view on a TV. Also has USB port which makes it act like any other external drive. It is small, light wgt, and you dont need a lap top to make it work in the field. So when wgt might be an issue it works.
  22. I could fit a laptop in the 1650 if I left out my charger (which is rather large). Neither of my Pelican cases will go as carry on. I think the largest Pelican that will is a 1500. My larger case is a 1650 which is about the size of a large suitcase, it has wheels and a end handle that extends for easy rolling. If I need to keep to two bags I remove the foam from the pelican and wrap my camera gear in my cloths, drusuit underwear, etc. Then I have enough space in a large rolling duffel bag for my dive gear including drysuit, 3 regs etc. My carry on is reserved for anything that might look like a bomb on a xray machine such as my canister light battery, dive computer, etc. and my primary regulator. The things you have to do to make sure all of the toys get to go on vacation too.
  23. I have a Oly 3040 in a Tetra and wouldnt trade th housing for any other. The compact size and bomb proof construction is great. I spent a week with it in deptahs ragning from 70 - 225' and it worked flawlessly. By the way the depth rating is 325' not 200'. ULCS arms are the best and they will last longer than your diving career will so it is money well spent. I have 2 pelican cases a 1520 which I can carry and will handle the housing, (1) strobe, arm, Iomega Zip drive, power supply (220 to 110) , disks, and 2 lens. It would handle a 2nd stobe if not for the power supply. I also have a 1650 wheeled case which handles all of the above plus 2 more strobes, 2 more arms, battery charger (annsmann 120), with room to spare.
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