Jump to content

twinner

Member
  • Content Count

    134
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

twinner last won the day on October 21 2013

twinner had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About twinner

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel
  • Birthday 02/02/1965

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.toddwinner.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Redondo Beach, CA

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 5D MarkIV
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    ikelite
  • Industry Affiliation
    Nauticam
  1. @miguelpereira Correct, the MWL-1 is designed to be used with a 60mm macro lens on FF or the equivalent on a smaller sensor. I just happened to be shooting it with a FF mirrorless but you could get the same results with the D850 and 60mm. You will get the best results with the MWL-1 at high f/stops. f/16 is recommended for FF. I shot most of my images at f/16 to f/22. I only had the lens for a short time so I didn't get a chance to shoot some wider apertures. I will the next time I can take it out. I do think it would work fine for larger subjects and more traditional wide angle shots. I don't think you are going to stop shooting your fisheye or other wide lens but having a 150° WA lens and a 60mm macro lens on the same dive will be perfect for a lot of locations.
  2. I had a chance to make 3 dives at Blue Heron Bridge with the Z7, 60mm macro and the MWL-1. Overall I think the Z7 is a good mirrorless camera and considering this is Nikon's first pro level mirrorless, I think they did a nice job. The main complaint I see from most reviews is the AF. The AF is not as good as a D850 or D500 but it was still quite usable. The image quality looks really nice, typical Nikon. I do work for Nauticam, so my opinion may be a bit biased.
  3. Hey Jordi, f/5.6 is not going to be as sharp as f/11 or any high f stop but it is sharper than a dome at the same f stop and same FOV. That image in the cave is a bad example as I shot it with a slow shutter speed and probably introduced some camera movement. Overall I find it to be much sharper in the corners than a dome and the zoom range is pretty incredible. Todd
  4. Feeling spontaneous? Two of our guests are forfeiting their deposits and we are deeply discounting their spots on our upcoming 10-day expedition to the Solomon Islands aboard the Bilikiki! Join Immersed Imaging for this amazing adventure to the South Pacific and save bunch of $$ in the process! Interested? Email us at info@immersedimaging.com for your discounted price, and visit http://www.immersedimaging.com/solomon-islands.html for more details. We hope to see you onboard! Todd Winner Michael Zeigler www.immersedimaging.com
  5. If you're interested in shooting subjects that are smaller that what you can fill the frame with at 1:1 and you don't want to crop, then you need a diopter or other tool to give you more magnification. I have no hands on experience with the Nikkor 85mm but it looks like the mfd is similar to the 105mm so it should work with any diopter that works well with that lens. This article has some comparisons with some of the popular wet diopters out there. https://samysunderwater.wordpress.com/2014/04/28/super-macro-beyond-small/
  6. The float rings made for macro ports (like the one in the image that James posted) are the best solution I have found for balancing a DSLR macro rig. One of those plus some float arms should get you close to neutral.
  7. I'm a canon shooter so I don't have the 105mm but I'm fairly certain the rubber needs to be removed. It must be removed on the canon 100mm IS. It should be pretty obvious once you attach the plastic ring. If the rubber needs to be removed the plastic ring won't fit properly.
  8. One more vote for the keldans. The video 8m puts out a realy nice wide soft light.
  9. Have a great trip! She will be happy with the SMC and 100mm combo. You can also stack the SMC with the subsee +5 Here are some examples with that combo and the SMC plus the Nauticam multiplier. https://samysunderwater.wordpress.com/2015/05/22/canon-ef-100mm-f2-8l-macro-is-underwater/
  10. I haven't tried the SMC with a 60mm but the subsee +5 is really useful. The problem with the 60mm is the working distance is already really short so if your interested in shooting very small subjects the 100mm with diopters might be better. There is a chart in this article comparing the subsees and SMC with the 100mm. This is with a full frame camera so you would have tighter framing with your camera. https://samysunderwater.wordpress.com/2014/04/28/super-macro-beyond-small/
  11. I would also guess your problem is the sync cord not the strobe. Should be easy to test if you have or can borrow another cord.
  12. One more vote for the Canon 16-35mm f/4L Here is a link to some images and my first impressions with the lens. review.https://samysunderwater.wordpress.com/2015/02/27/canon-ef-16-35mm-f4-0l-is-usm-underwater/
  13. You may also want to consider taking a few lessons. Pretty inexpensive when you consider the cost of yor trips and gear. Contact me through my website if you would like more info.
  14. You could also try unplugging the battery for a few minutes. This has helped mine in the past. From what I remember you just have to remove that plastic piece under the led module to gain access to it.
  15. Awesome! See you in a few weeks! We will have a nauticam SMC and some other diopters on board if you want to try some super macro. What body are you shooting?
×
×
  • Create New...