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Everything posted by twinner

  1. @miguelpereira Correct, the MWL-1 is designed to be used with a 60mm macro lens on FF or the equivalent on a smaller sensor. I just happened to be shooting it with a FF mirrorless but you could get the same results with the D850 and 60mm. You will get the best results with the MWL-1 at high f/stops. f/16 is recommended for FF. I shot most of my images at f/16 to f/22. I only had the lens for a short time so I didn't get a chance to shoot some wider apertures. I will the next time I can take it out. I do think it would work fine for larger subjects and more traditional wide angle shots. I don't think you are going to stop shooting your fisheye or other wide lens but having a 150° WA lens and a 60mm macro lens on the same dive will be perfect for a lot of locations.
  2. I had a chance to make 3 dives at Blue Heron Bridge with the Z7, 60mm macro and the MWL-1. Overall I think the Z7 is a good mirrorless camera and considering this is Nikon's first pro level mirrorless, I think they did a nice job. The main complaint I see from most reviews is the AF. The AF is not as good as a D850 or D500 but it was still quite usable. The image quality looks really nice, typical Nikon. I do work for Nauticam, so my opinion may be a bit biased.
  3. Hey Jordi, f/5.6 is not going to be as sharp as f/11 or any high f stop but it is sharper than a dome at the same f stop and same FOV. That image in the cave is a bad example as I shot it with a slow shutter speed and probably introduced some camera movement. Overall I find it to be much sharper in the corners than a dome and the zoom range is pretty incredible. Todd
  4. Feeling spontaneous? Two of our guests are forfeiting their deposits and we are deeply discounting their spots on our upcoming 10-day expedition to the Solomon Islands aboard the Bilikiki! Join Immersed Imaging for this amazing adventure to the South Pacific and save bunch of $$ in the process! Interested? Email us at info@immersedimaging.com for your discounted price, and visit http://www.immersedimaging.com/solomon-islands.html for more details. We hope to see you onboard! Todd Winner Michael Zeigler www.immersedimaging.com
  5. If you're interested in shooting subjects that are smaller that what you can fill the frame with at 1:1 and you don't want to crop, then you need a diopter or other tool to give you more magnification. I have no hands on experience with the Nikkor 85mm but it looks like the mfd is similar to the 105mm so it should work with any diopter that works well with that lens. This article has some comparisons with some of the popular wet diopters out there. https://samysunderwater.wordpress.com/2014/04/28/super-macro-beyond-small/
  6. The float rings made for macro ports (like the one in the image that James posted) are the best solution I have found for balancing a DSLR macro rig. One of those plus some float arms should get you close to neutral.
  7. I'm a canon shooter so I don't have the 105mm but I'm fairly certain the rubber needs to be removed. It must be removed on the canon 100mm IS. It should be pretty obvious once you attach the plastic ring. If the rubber needs to be removed the plastic ring won't fit properly.
  8. One more vote for the keldans. The video 8m puts out a realy nice wide soft light.
  9. Have a great trip! She will be happy with the SMC and 100mm combo. You can also stack the SMC with the subsee +5 Here are some examples with that combo and the SMC plus the Nauticam multiplier. https://samysunderwater.wordpress.com/2015/05/22/canon-ef-100mm-f2-8l-macro-is-underwater/
  10. I haven't tried the SMC with a 60mm but the subsee +5 is really useful. The problem with the 60mm is the working distance is already really short so if your interested in shooting very small subjects the 100mm with diopters might be better. There is a chart in this article comparing the subsees and SMC with the 100mm. This is with a full frame camera so you would have tighter framing with your camera. https://samysunderwater.wordpress.com/2014/04/28/super-macro-beyond-small/
  11. I would also guess your problem is the sync cord not the strobe. Should be easy to test if you have or can borrow another cord.
  12. One more vote for the Canon 16-35mm f/4L Here is a link to some images and my first impressions with the lens. review.https://samysunderwater.wordpress.com/2015/02/27/canon-ef-16-35mm-f4-0l-is-usm-underwater/
  13. You may also want to consider taking a few lessons. Pretty inexpensive when you consider the cost of yor trips and gear. Contact me through my website if you would like more info.
  14. You could also try unplugging the battery for a few minutes. This has helped mine in the past. From what I remember you just have to remove that plastic piece under the led module to gain access to it.
  15. Awesome! See you in a few weeks! We will have a nauticam SMC and some other diopters on board if you want to try some super macro. What body are you shooting?
  16. If you can afford it get the L version, get it! It's the best macro lens I have owned. The IS is not as effective at macro distances but I keep it on all the time. Super sharp and fast auto focus.
  17. They are still useful for triggering ikelite slave strobes. If you still have your ds125 you may want to pick up a fiber optic snoot.
  18. Most shooters including myself use autofocus on DSLRs for still shooting. You can always fine tune your focus by using focus lock or back button focus and rocking the camera. The exception for me is the 100mm macro. I use a focus gear on it along with autofocus.
  19. I'm using the 9" zen with an 80mm ext. Nauticam housing 5D lll
  20. One more vote for the f/4.0! I recently replaced my f/2.8 II that was stolen with the f/4.0. The f4 is better all around unless you need to shoot wide open at 2.8. Here are some recent images with the f/4.0 https://samysunderwater.wordpress.com/2015/02/27/canon-ef-16-35mm-f4-0l-is-usm-underwater/
  21. It sounds like your focus points in your viewfinder are functioning normal but I'm not sure what's going on with your auto focus without seeing it. http://learn.usa.canon.com/resources/videos/tutorials/eos_5d_markiii_tutorials/mark_iii_intelligent_viewfinder-detail.shtml
  22. Thank you! Are you shooting MOV files?
  23. Can anyone tell me if they have actually got the GH4 to work with a Ninja2 yet? I had it working with the Small HD DP4 but no luck so far with the Ninja2. Thanks, Todd
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