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Ferg42

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Everything posted by Ferg42

  1. I have a Nauticam 230mm Glass Dome Port #18808 in very good condition. Glass perfect a few light abrasions on the plastic sunshade. Complete with neoprene cover and spare O-ring. Item located in Sussex, U.K. £1200 plus postage.
  2. https://www.flickr.com/photos/31278905@N07/16729716509/ Housing still available. Most other gear sold except for zoom gears for Canon 8-15 and 8-15 plus TC. More photos of housing here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/31278905@N07/with/16729716509/
  3. 5D III Housing still available, plus macro port and 40mm extension, and zoom gears for Tok 10-17, Canon 17-40, Canon 8-15 and tamron 11-16
  4. Zen Dome sold 20mm ext sold Viewfinder sold Housing & other bits still available
  5. Hi there, Yes, I may be interested in that. Might leave it a few days to see if I get any takers for the whole package, but if you're still interested after that, I will check how much the postage costs. Cheers Fergus
  6. For Sale: Nauticam NA 5DMKIII Housing for Canon 5D Mark III. Good condition. only about 5-6 weeks use. Never leaked. Includes Leak Alarm. Optical trigger can also be included. RRP £2679.95. £1900. Ikelite 8” Dome Port converted to fit Nauticam. Fair condition, a few light scratches nothing drastic. £190. Nauticam 180degree straight viewfinder RRP £970+ : £600 Zen Glass Port DP-100 100mm Nauticam fit. Suits Tokina 10-17mm: £300 Nauticam Macro Port C60-MR130. Fits Canon 60mm, or 100mm macros with extra extension rings: £150 Nauticam Locking Extension Ring 40mm: £130 Nauticam Locking Extension Ring 20mm: £120 Various zoom gears too- Canon 17-40mm, Canon 8-15mm, Tokina 11-16mm, Willing to negotiate package prices. Based South of UK.
  7. Hi I don't have a clear photo of the setup, but I mounted the battery to my cylinder and the lighthead to a normal 1" ball arm system. Worked well in the water but can be a bit awkward getting in & out of boats. Workable though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Here's a recent trip video from a deep south Red Sea photography workshop (Egypt). Shot with Canon 5D Mark III in Nauticam with Canon 16-35mm, 17-40mm and 8-15mm lenses. Lit with the Orcalight Seawolf 2260. Loving the sheer lumen power of that light. For some reason the embedded video won't go above 720p res so for the full 1080 effect click through to youtube......
  9. Hi kkfok, Sorry for the delay. Yes, I do use the sliders in Lightroom and I did have the flickering problem initially- I looked into it & apparently it's related to the LR process used, so if you change the process to 2010 (in the develop tab- down near the bottom- Camera Calibration> Process). I think the newer processes much introduce some very minor 'auto exposure' type thing which introduces the flicker. Anyway, try it- I'd be interested to see if it works for you. - Richard- not sure if I understand you correctly, but if you mean processing in Lightroom, then exporting as jpeg frames or whatever and importing to FCP it should work just fine (but see above about flickering). In lightroom I just grade one frame, copy the develop settings and paste to all other frames. I don't have FCP here in front of me, but on my PC NLE (Vegas) I can just import a series of high quality jpegs- I then sometimes also do some more minor grading if necessary. Cheers
  10. Hi All, I recently had the opportunity to try out the ridiculously powerful Orcalight Seawolf video light in the Maldives and thought people here might be interested. Stuart Keasley (bottlefish) did a detailed technical review here so I won't go into too much depth on the specs. The main outstanding feature of this light is the sheer lumen-power. A single lighthead can push out 22000 lumens. I had previously considered my pair of 4000 lumen lights to be powerful, but this blows them out of the water. Why would you want or need so much light? I would say the main reasons are either for lighting very large objects in dark environments, such as deep wrecks or in interior of caves, or in shallower, brighter environments the lumen power comes into play to compete with natural light. Still photographers know that you need as much strobe power as possible to fill in the foreground shadows, especially when shooting into the sun. I've always been interested in achieving a similar look in video, and up till now that's been very difficult. The Orcalight is not particularly small or light unit, but there again that is to be expected for such a powerful beast. The unit I tested is an umbilical arrangement, where the battery can be fixed either to the side of your cylinder or clipped to your BCD. Underwater this arrangement is fine and I found it didn't affect my buoyancy much at all. I think officially it is quoted as 200gms negative. The only problem I encountered was boat entry and exit from the water was slightly complicated when it was very choppy as I was effectively attached to the camera. However, Orcalight have since announced a self-contained unit, which should eliminate this problem. In use the unit was simple and reliable. I had no issues. It came with two lenses, a 60 degree and a 90 degree. I found the 90 degree sufficient to cover the FOV of a 17-40mm lens on full frame. I believe a 120 degree lens is also now available, which would suit those using a fisheye lens. Note the angles are horizontal field of view, rather than the diagonal 180 of a fisheye. The light output was great and definitely a step up from anything I had used before. At 8-10m depth and beyond with bright tropical sunshine, the light balanced well with the natural light, and coverage was even. I was able to shoot off some stills as well- see attached pic below. Depth around 12m, ISO 200, 1/100th f8. I only managed a couple of dives with the light in the end as I was also shooting stills, but here are a few clips- It left me itching to shoot more with it, and I feel it has the potential to help create some really unique shots which weren't previously possible. This is particularly true with 4K video where there may be the potential to pull decent quality stills from the video- helpful when you need to shoot both with limited underwater time. Ethics Statement: I have no association with Orcalight. I was kindly loaned the unit by Alex Tattersall of Underwater Visions, and Shane Newman of Orcalight provided very useful tips and is extremely responsive to requests for information.
  11. Hi Richard, I've used this setup for a few projects now. My workflow is to convert the .RAW files to .DNGs with Rawanizer, then import the dngs into lightroom, do a grade then export as a stream of jpegs. I then import the jpegs into my NLE, which is Sony Vegas. This is partly because I have come from a mainly stills background, so I'm very familiar with lightroom. The flow will be slightly different on a mac, but I think the raw converters are pretty similar whichever platform you use, so you could do something similar on a mac. Or instead, a lot of people then import the dngs into Davinci Resolve Lite which is free to down, to do a rough grade then export to the video format of your choice- maybe a high quality prores and import into FCP. I did toy with Resolve, but found it difficult to achieve a satisfactory white balance. I'm sure you can but I'm just not used to it. I guess if you export the clips as high quality Prores, you could probably do the grading in FCP or Color. In any case, I find the results very nice, once you're used to the extra steps in the workflow. Not sure I'd want to shoot an entire longer format project in this format unless I had lots of time/extra help, though! Cheers Fergus
  12. Nice review Stuart. I've also been playing with the light in the Maldives, but didnt get as much chance as I'd hoped I would to use it. I will post some samples when I'm back home in a couple of weeks. In the meantime I wonder if this review might get more of an audience in the Video equipment section- Drew? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Hi Jim, Thanks for the thoughts. I'll get in touch with Sharkwatch Arabia, I actually already know many of those involved. Just found out it's mentioned in Fishes of Oman by Randall, as possibly having been described in Oman in 1944, but misidentified as Trygon gerradi Cheers Fergus
  14. Hi Folks, Anyone any good at IDing stingrays? This biggy was almost 2m across, shot back in 2002ish I think in the Gulf of Masirah, Oman. Having filed it away and not thought much about it, I then saw a doco about Mozambique, saying this was the first time Small-Eyed Stingrays (Dasyatis microps) had every been filmed at that this was the only place they'd ever been seen alive. Of course, my one is probably just something different and common as muck...... Anyway here is the video I shot in Oman: Compare with a video from Mozambique: This was not the only one we saw, there were several at the surface, often shadowed by a smaller ray (male following a female?) and I've seen them on several occasions.
  15. Strangely enough, I have experienced flickering issues with powerful LED lights underwater, which could be corrected with an adjustment to shutterspeed. I experienced them at 1/50th sec with mangrove lights. It's not really a problem so long as you notice it underwater and correct it!
  16. Hi Espen, The lens itself is pretty good wider open. If you're shooting raw, as I do on the 5D Mark III (with a different lens), it's pretty easy to get rid of CA in post- I just used lightroom, and apply to all frames. I'm guessing the Tokina would be best with a 9inch + port, then you could probably use it wider open. Then there are the various fisheye options, but not always an ideal look for video....
  17. I know some guys who have been shooting underwater with the Red Epic and the Tokina 11-16mm. It seems to be pretty sharp with a big dome- and I've been happy with it on the 7D. It's better at f8 and beyond.
  18. Don't you need that massive block on the underneath to get 4:2:2 10 bit 4K? but you can get 4:2:2 8 bit from the built-in HDMI, or am i misunderstanding? In either case, is there an affordable external recorder for 4k yet? and if so are we going to get a housing for it? Questions, questions....
  19. I've been having the same thoughts. I looked into it and it looks as though the metabones speed booster is not yet available for Canon EF to M43 mount. But they do seem to have one planned- see here: http://www.metabones.com/article/of/faq On ebay you can also get adapters that are manual focus, but have an iris built in for aperture. Not much use underwater though.
  20. Hi, glad you liked it. I never managed to get the hang of the 'crossed eyed' method! Shot on a couple of different setups- a pair of sony cx550's in a BS Kinetics housing (good for wider shots)- and a single Sony TD10 in a Sealux housing (better for macro/closer work). I have also been using a pair of gopros, which are pretty good when there is plenty of light and you need a very wide fisheye view.
  21. Agree with what David said. I have been using Komputerbay- have 3 cards. So far have had one problem with corrupted still images, but touch wood OK for ML so far. I also can't manage 30p at 1920x1080 on any of my cards. It can be done at a higher aspect ratio- I got it to work at 2:1 at 30p with the Komputerbay 128gb 1050x. I'm using it on a trip soon, so slightly nervous, but I will have 3 Komputerbay cards with me, and a Transcend, but the Transcend is actually a bit slower. If you have the money I would go for the Lexar. In fact with all the money I've spent on backup Komputerbay cards and Transcend I could have got a couple of Lexars! Interestingly with my card I have found that having Global Draw on doesn't make that much difference to the speed- I can still get 1920, 2:1 at 30p and it's handy having the zebras and peaking. David- I'm interested in your idea of modding a ND filter- do you mean a graduated ND to cut down on clipping of the surface? I've also contemplated trying this, but I always thought of just fixing it in place, and being stuck with a certain type of composition for the dive. Being able to move it with gears sounds ingenious would love to see pictures. Cheers
  22. That's good to hear Simon. It looks a lot better as a blu-ray than on youtube. Gotta get out to Lembeh one day- especially as I now have a workable 3D macro setup!
  23. Hi All, I've been experimenting with low budget 3D underwater for a while. Here's a compilation on youtube: It suffers from the usual youtube compression problems. I'm interested to see how it works for people with 3D displays or TVs. I found I had to tick the 'swap left and right' box as well as selecting the appropriate 3D display type. best at 1080 obviously. Feedback welcome. I know there are a few slightly problematic shots in there. Thanks
  24. Yes, you have a lot of capacity to change WB in post (whether ACR or gradiing software). It's much better than the Canon h264. I normally use a magic filter and have had no issues getting a good result for white balance.
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