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Placebo365 last won the day on January 27

Placebo365 had the most liked content!

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About Placebo365

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony A6000
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    1 x Inon Z330 + 2 x Scubalamp V6K
  • Accessories
    Mares EOS rz12 video light
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  1. It's all about education and respect. I'm an instructor and UW photographer. Regardless of experience I always include in my briefing do not touch, tease or harass anything. I usually take this further with beginners telling them the ocean is not our home, we don't belong there and its only by technological advances we have the opportunity and privilege to witness its wonders. We should leave no trace of being there, ideally not moving as much as a grain of sand. We are mere visitors. If invited into someone's home as a guest we'd never dream of taking anything or moving their belongings, the ocean should be the same to us. Most are receptive to this, those who are not, I remind them politely that many things in the Ocean are venemous therefore for their own safety it is better not to touch. I find that usually does the trick. With photographers, I give them tips on buoyancy and how best to get into position without disturbing anything. If it's evident their buoyancy isn't yet at a level they can manage that, then I'll never point out anything that's in an awkward place where they'll likely damage. If they do, then that's my fault for showing it in the first place. So to answer the OP... Moving something may seem like no biggie, but these dive sites we all dive see thousand of divers there year in year out. If every other person moved stuff, then yes it is a biggie, it's a major biggie for the marine life there. One of the sites I dive has had a Tiger tail seahorse on the same spot for 4 years. I've seen it photographed on a daily basis by many customers for all that time. I've seen clients with less than desirable buoyancy kick up the sand and corals surrounding it. It's heartbreaking. I won't even mention its presence to people unless their buoyancy is excellent. We have to take responsibility for our actions and their impact. This year at the start of the season the seahorse isn't there anymore. Maybe it just died of natural causes but I'm secretly hoping it's moved elsewhere and nobody ever finds him again! Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
  2. Ocean Quest Global. Founded by Anuar Abdullah, an Oceanographer who has dedicated 30 years of his life to developing a method of Coral Reef Conservation and Propogation, that is now being implemented in 8 countries within Southeast Asia. The program includes training dive professionals to themselves be coral Propogation trainers and offer courses and volunteer programs to the public. Dozen of coral nurseries are being built and tended throughout the region. https://www.oceanquest.global/ Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
  3. Did you find the animal eye AF worked on sharks and the blenny image? Also did you get to test any video with it? Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
  4. Many dive centres will provide you with a private guide for an extra cost. If you tell them exactly what you'd like re photography, taking time on a particular subject etc, most DMs are delighted getting that job. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
  5. Canon G15 in polycarbonate Canon WP48 (I think) housing. Natural light. Eventually saved up for one 2nd hand Sea&Sea YS01 strobe. Moved onto SonyA6000 in polycarbonate Meikon housing. It's done I reckon about 600 dives and is still going strong. Currently saving hard to move to full frame and 'proper ' housing. I can think of 5 people I know who have worked professionally using polycarbonate housing. In every case it's just been a question of finance not to upgrade. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
  6. I'm looking seriously into this setup (although with the Sony A7siii when it eventually appears!). I'd be super interested to hear about and see your results mbrock. Be great if you could report back. Enjoy your trip. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
  7. No problem Dave. Started off with the kit lens 16-55 if I recall, not very sharp at all. I did loads of research on lenses too. Went for Sigma 19mm f2. 8 which is pretty sharp for the price. Great at f8 which is what I mostly use it at. F9-f11 I find it hunts quite a bit for focus. Good luck. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
  8. Hi Dave, yeah sure, here are a few. Like I say, taken on the A6000, Sigma 19mm f2.8 lens, Meikon housing, 1 strobe (InonZ330, some of them may have been taken with one Sea&SeaYs-02 strobe before I had the Inon). I've got a Meikon wet lens attached to the housing. The A6000 is 1.5 crop, therefore the Sigma lens is effectively about 28mm, but the wet lens widens it a bit, I'm guessing to about 20 or 22mm?? Not sure. Anyway, it's a total workhorse. Been used for I'd say about 600 dives over the last 3 years, as well as daily blasted on land. I dread to think how many clicks its done and (touch wood) it's still going. People argue that the Sony's have that 'weird colour science' but I've found it's totally fixable in LR. Here are a link to some sample images... (can't upload them direct here as it's saying I can only upload max 0.98mb. Sample images **edit** Oh and forgot to mention re video, obviously there's no 4k but it does have zebras which I use constantly and it absolutely enables you to nail exposure every time. No complaints about the auto focus either.
  9. Excellent film. The colour and lighting in this are just beautiful. I see your equip list above, can I ask if you are setting your white balance to the same kelvin as your lights? Whatever you're doing it's working very well. Thanks for sharing.
  10. Interested if you ever went ahead with this setup? Did the WWL1 work out on the housing with the adapter? Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
  11. Don't write off your A6000. I've been using it UW with a Sigma 19mm and Meikon housing for a couple years now. It's a lot of bang for your buck. Don't get me wrong, I'm hoping to upgrade soon but would still recommend the A6000 to anyone. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
  12. I've not been able to post via Tapatalk app either. Have to go in through a browser.
  13. Just bought a set of Scubalamp V6K (not pro's). (From Dreifish, highly recommended BTW, thank you). Massive upgrade from my previous single Mares EOS rz12 1200 lumens. Had a quick chance to briefly test them on a couple dives. My initial impression is just wow! I need a few more dives to play around with different white balance options however the spread and quality of light is just beautiful. I'm very impressed. I'll continue to test them over the next few weeks and report back. Initial impression is they are great. I'd be interested in finding out about the remote trigger Dreifish mentioned. That would be the icing on the cake.
  14. This is a scientific paper published in 2019 on the subject. Behavioural and pathomorphological impacts of flash photography on benthic fishes. Very interesting read.https://crittersresearch.com/2019/01/25/new-publication-flash-photography-impacts-on-fish-to-flash-or-not-to-flash/?fbclid=IwAR25HrTgKmqoOOpTJ_3FTfzmSKvMBiLKxCGap17Scg8jcuUss7hoO5E_iTE
  15. Hi Abhi, I have and use this same set-up. Sony A6000 in Meikon housing with the Meikon/Neewer Dome port. I also started with the 16-55 kit lens but now use the Sigma 19mm f2.8. I also had this same problem in the beginning but it's (mostly) fixable. I'm not sure exactly what causes it. I've had it shooting into the blue water column and also many other circumstances. I can't diagnose all of the problem but I can help a bit with what to do to correct it. I initially had this problem prior to having the dome port so I think you can rule that out. I've taken your RAW photo and processed it as I normally would. This is what I got (sorry not quite sure how to directly imbed an image) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZgQEHcegphFTmYBVNQvyoeFrAJXs8PHs/view?usp=sharing or https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zT8YrqPCQI-lk0JSYeEA_mU8pKYDS0gT/view?usp=sharing Here's how I got there; 1 - Imported into Lightroom. 2 - Lens correction: Enable profile corrections (that gets rid of some of the vignette and lines you're seeing) and select the lens you are using or the closest one you can find to it. 3 - Take the White Balance dropper and use the free divers leg as a sample point (that gave me a a temp: 36,000 and tint +112). 4 - Tone: Auto tone (sometimes this give you a good start point, sometimes not). This time it worked OK. 5 - Tone: set black and white points so they don't clip but give a better contrast to the basic 'auto tone'. Use your histogram for this. Now you're problem lines are really visible and a horrible purple colour. Let's sort that. 6 - In HSL section, take your Purple Hue slider and drop it to -100. The A6000 has a tendency to have this weird Purple thing going on, doing this gets rid of it easily. 7 - To get a better water colour, in HSL section use the sample button (sorry not sure what it's called) in Luminance and click on the blue water column, drag it down to something you're more happy with. In this case I took it to Blue -40, Purple -22. 8 - There were at least 3 large sensor spots and a bunch of backscatter which I removed most of. 9 - Use a radial filter over the Whale and the free diver to sharpen a little to give focus. That's it. A top tip is to block off the light coming back into your camera. It stops weird reflections coming back into your sensor. I normally place the camera in the housing then use a cardboard business card. Insert it over the top of the lens and push it as far towards the glass of the housing as possible. That stops light getting in and (if you use your internal flash to trigger external strobes, or just use the flash on it's own) the internal flash light escaping through the front of the housing causing extra backscatter. I also covered any clear plastic on my housing with black electrical tape for this reason. Don't be disheartened. The Sony A6000 is an awesome camera. Don't get me wrong if I had the money I'd upgrade (hopefully this will happen this year) you've just got to know how to use it and how to process the images. Always shoot RAW, if you're doing video shoot in XAVCS not AVCHD. Hope this helps.
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