herbko

I have photoshop CS2, Capture One and of course Canon's DDP. I find myself using DDP most, Capture One some of the times and rarely use CS2 for raw conversion.

Here's one of my recent shots of a similar subject. My shot looked a great deal like your shot before adjustment. I used DDP. WB set to 6000K and saturation set to 3.

I agree also. Here's a 1 minute adjustment using curves on your JPEG. You can do better starting with the raw file.

We had a thread on this awhile back. Yes. Objects do look bigger behind a flat port, but the maximum magnification of the lens does not change. Your 60mm is still 1:1, you just have to move in closer with a dome port to get that magnification.

or yet another sunball shot from Wakatobi.

Nice shots Matt. I like that last little crab best.

Nice shots Matt. I think I've seen it that blue up here once.

Welcome to the club. I think you're right. Sound travels too well. If everybody uses this scheme you'll set off strobes over the entire divesite every time you shoot. It's hard to build small acoustic filters to make enough channels to avoid that.

So when are you replacing those cables with optical fiber?

If you haven't done this before. Start easy. Shoot with the 100mm only and choose subjects that are a couple of inches across, and work your way to smaller subject once you got that figured out.

I upgrade from the 300D to the 5D and the viewfinder improvement was hugh on land, but in the housing it was not that much. I expect this to change when Aquatica finally ships their upgraded viewfinder. Spot metering is no big deal at all underwater. It's very unlikely that a small bright spot is the limiting factor in your background exposure.

Adding the extension ring allow closer focus and higher magnification and really does not change the relationship between the aperture and diffraction. However, for macro the aperture you set is not the real aperture. There's a correction of almost two stop at 1:1 due to the extension of the lens for close focus. That is a setting of F/11 is really an aperture close to F/22 at that magnification. I read that some Nikon bodies and lenses will adjust and give the actually aperture setting, but Canon lenses do not.

Thanks Todd. Nice shots. I think I've seen at least a close cousin of most of these critters at Monterey except that shrimp.

Nices shots, but you're holding out on us. Where's that candy stripe shrimp.

I'm no help in fish ID, but I think that's a really nice shot getting the two to line up in such pretty surroundings. Where's your Bonaire gallery?

I was also surprised and disappointed that they cloned in that penguin. I definitely would not subscribe to a journal that would do that. Agree that Andre's shot would still be great without the penguin.

There's been a few side-by-side 5D vs D200 ISO series posted on dpreview forums. There seem to be somewhat of a consensus, as much as is possible on dpreview, that there's a 2 stop difference. Here's one set of shots: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp...essage=19968444 When I shoot above water, I now tend to give the aperture I really want top priority, then set a shutter speed that I can handle without camera shake or motion blurring by the subject, and then get the correct exposure by adjusting the ISO. I really wish Canon would put in a shooting mode that automates the priorities this way.

Bingo I shot the indoor part of my niece's wedding at ISO 1600 and no flash a few month ago. Probably closer to ISO 3200 since the lighting was really bad and most of the shots were underexposed by a stop. It's probably not up to professional standards but everybody loved the results.

My lens usage with the 5D are similar adjusted for sensor size: more than half with 100 + 1.4x, some with just the 100 and very few with the 2x. Most of the time I use 100 + 1.4x I also add the 500D for closer focus. The +2 diopter, 500D, limits the focus range to about 1/2 meter, and I think that's close to the outer range of working distance for a good shot, so most of the time it's a good tradeoff to include it to get higher magnification. I think the 180mm by itself even foused near 1:1 still leaves too much water between the port and the subject for a really good shot in most case.

Really nice shots!

Nice shots. I like the close up of the stargazer most also.

Congratulations Gavin! That's a fantastic shot.

Yes. It would be very interesting to see some sunball shots from one of these.

ISO 1600. I wanted the ambient light background and it was dark. This was shot during a one day beach dive comp. Shot in JPEG with no post processing. See EXIF in photo.

Just the opposite. Ike strobes have the lower color temperature, 4800K, of the two. It's more red. Just in case you're not confused by the above, if you choose a color temperature white balance setting for your camera or raw converter, increasing the temperature will make your photo look more red. That's because the camera or software assumes that your light source is at that color temperature and compensates to give the "true" color for the subject. Higher color temperature source -> more blue in the light -> photo is shifted to the red to compensate.