herbko

Nices shots James. I love the fisheye also, and yes it does take getting used to. I have shots of my fins and my strobes.

Not much. Just that photographers have the opposite idea of what's hot and cold from physicists. The strobe output temperature specification comes from the color of the light given off by an ideal black body at that temperture, the sun is one good example. As that object gets hot the light shifts from red to blue. Photographers for some reason think that blue light is cold and red light is warm.

I still have my photos from my last dives in Bali on the card in the camera and I just checked them. The water looks blue to me. I'm looking at the LCD and the same photo unadjusted on my monitor using DPP. The one on the monitor looks like it a darker, deeper blue, but the photo on the LCD still look blue to me. I have the picture style set to standard and WB on auto.

The characteristics that make anemone and clown fish attractive are the bright colors. I'd choose other subjects like sharks and rays for b/w.

Please load the images again. They are not showing up.

Go here and follow the "click here" link to the pdf manual http://www.canon.ca/english/index-customer...ort.asp?pid=422 It's on page 101. The menu item to switch is "LCD auto off" -> Disable .

That may depend on your raw converter. The raw files are tagged with the picture style setting and Canon DPP will use that in the raw conversion unless you change it before converting.

Probably other Unix OS (Sun, HP,BSD,....). If you lump those with linux Mac's are third.

It's got to be a royal pain to run a cable from the output surface of one strobe to near the output of the other in a WA setup. Know anyone who's actually using a setup like that?

Check the picture style also. I leave mine on standard, some of the other ones can produce strange results. If he shot in raw open them in Canon's DPP raw converter and adjust the WB and Picture Style setting.

The usual definition of lossless is that you can take a file and compress it and uncompress to a file that is identical to the original. Programs like zip does just that. As a demo you can take your uncompressed raw file and run zip on it, note the change in file size and unzip and check to see that you recovered an identical file. There was some controversy on whether Nikon should claim their RAW compressed files for the D70 as lossless. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?s=&am...ost&p=34321 I think it's true that you cannot generate an uncompressed file from a D70 compressed file that is indentical to one that was never compressed to begin with. I don't know if anything has changed in the newer models.

This subject seems to come up once every few months. Here's a link to links of old posts where we went into great details. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?s=&am...ost&p=80079 and here's the calculation on DOF dependence on sensor size and resolution. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...amp;#entry80286 The interesting results are that for a given resolution and sensor size, the DOF does NOT depend on the lense focal length, and larger sensors can achieve better DOF at smaller aperture.

I think the opposite is true. To achieve a given resolution, a smaller sensor requires a larger aperture when we're up against the diffraction limit. An easy way to think about this is to consider two different size sensors with the same number of photosites. The photosites on the larger sensor will be spaced further apart and the image from it will show less diffraction blurring at a given aperture simply because it is sampling the image at larger intervals.

It's true that at F/32 you'll loose resolution due to diffraction, but using as much of the sensor as possible will still give you more details for a given depth of field. The cropped image looks sharper if you look at a 100% crop, but that's not a good measure since the uncropped image is at higher resolution.

Go to F32. You'll end up with a higher resolution image than moving back and croping. Only crop when you've reached minimum aperture or maximum magnifcation of your optics.

Pygmy seahorses seem to be more common at Wakatobi than most other places.

Thanks. It was my first time with the 15mm on a full frame and I learned quite a bit as I went along. I don't know what they are. I thought of them as one of the fans.

Nice shots Luiz. Interesting Angle fish. I don't think I've ever seen one of those.

I'm done editing. Now I just have to sort them into an Album. Here're a few sunny shots.

Helping others spend money is one of my favorite things to do.

I agree with that one. However, I think Canon has the advantage with macro lenses with USM 100mm and 60mm.

I've only had one Error 99 incident, and that was the 100mm only on my 300D. The Tamron 1.4x has had no problems so far. Best $100 I've ever spent on glass.

I don't have any insights on the cause of the strobe failure, but do have a simple suggestion for dealing with it should the same problem occur. Make a couple of one stop diffusers for the strobe. I've seen people here do that using plastic sheets and bungee cords.

Unless you have your dry suit along, a warm water wimp like you will freeze your *ss off. My computer read 68F at Crystal Bay and a relatively toasty 72F at Manta Point. I was very cold in my 3mm + 3mm vest. Our guide was shaking in his 7mm.