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Barmaglot last won the day on May 29

Barmaglot had the most liked content!

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About Barmaglot

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    Great Hammerhead

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony A6300
  • Camera Housing
    SeaFrogs Salted Line
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Retra Pro
  • Accessories
    Weefine Smart Focus 1000

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  1. The Nauticam trigger does not support HSS. You need a UW-Technics trigger or TRT Electronics s-TURTLE.
  2. It should be noted, however, that a WWL-1B will not fit the SeaFrogs threaded port, as it uses Nauticam's proprietary bayonet mount, and the wide front flange on SeaFrogs port interferes with Nauticam's M67 to bayonet converter. The same goes for WWL-C. The original WWL-1 in M67 mount can be used.
  3. Since you already have the 16-50mm and the threaded flat port, a wet lens is probably the better option over a dome. The 16-50mm lens is not particularly wide to begin with, so a dome is better paired with a 10-18mm, unless you're in very clear water and can afford to step back a bit. I've been shooting both 10-18mm and 16-50mm with the 8-inch dome for a while now, and I recently got a UWL-09F looking for a smaller and more versatile setup with better IQ, but I haven't had the chance to get it into water yet.
  4. What you're seeing are some of the effects of refraction. Basically, because the speed of light in water, glass and air are different, when light rays pass the boundary between different materials at an angle, they bend and scatter, resulting in optical distortions and loss of sharpness. You can't easily see the distortion when shooting natural life, but if you take a photo of something like pool tiles underwater, it will be quite plain. When shooting through a flat port, the further away from the center frame you go, the greater the angle at which the light passes through the port glass becomes, the greater is this effect going to be. Dome ports counteract this to a degree, although they introduce their own issues. They fix the distortion, but corner sharpness remains an issue, although it can be countered to a degree by closing down the aperture. I've done some testing in a pool with SeaFrogs 4-inch, 6-inch and 8-inch domes and 16-50mm and 10-18mm lenses on my A6300 camera; you can see the results here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AupWSggdlFYKjtRFXM2KS9gqFcyRpQ?e=0mJLGM Another option would be to replace the basic flat port (which, I presume, you're using) with the threaded short macro and use a wet lens such as Fantasea/AOI UWL-09 or a Nauticam WWL-1 (not WWL-1B or WWL-C; those will not fit the SeaFrogs port). This generally provides better corner sharpness than a dome port, although I don't have any sample images to post.
  5. If you're using WWL-1 and Keldan filters, they make a special frameless model designed to fit into the back of a WWL-1 - https://keldanlights.com/products/filters/filters-for-cameras/1421-spectrum-filter-sf-2-wwl-1.html
  6. Ikelite housing for A7 II series has plenty of open space on the left side of the camera, where HDMI plugs in. There is a bulkhead on top of the housing which you can use to run an HDMI cable. https://diveandsee.com/cables/hdmi/ has options for surface-to-underwater HDMI cables.
  7. No, inside the housing you use the camera with the 16-50mm lens on it. The wet lens works in conjunction with the camera lens, widening its field of view from approximately 75 degrees diagonal to 130 degrees diagonal.
  8. The Vivid Leak Sentinel V5 XB uses the VPS port - there is no synchro port bulkhead on the A6xxx housing.
  9. I tried it and found it basically unusable with a dive mask. YMMV. No target market for it. If you're sinking $5k+ into a housing and ports, why would you save a couple hundred by buying an A6100 over A6400? Regardless, with a Nauticam mirrorless housing, you won't get mounting rails for an LCD magnifier - their solution is to use an add-on viewfinder, like https://www.nauticam.com/collections/viewfinders/products/nauticam-180-straight-viewfinder-for-mil-housings or https://www.nauticam.com/collections/viewfinders/products/nauticam-45-viewfinder-for-mil-housings
  10. It attaches using the 67mm threads on this port: https://seafrogs.com.hk/collections/a6xxx-salted-line/products/macro-port-for-a6xxx-salted-line - I own this combination and can confirm that it's working. I'm not aware of any solution for a screen magnifier on a Sony camera housing that does not involve some DIY work. In fact, the only non-compact camera housing that I know of where you can get a screen magnifier direct from manufacturer is the AOI line of housings for Olympus cameras - their housings for Olympus E-PL 9/10, E-M1 II/III and OM-1 have rails for attaching either a UMG-01 straight magnifier or a UMG-05 90-degree magnifier. The Nauticam magnifier only fits their compact camera housings.
  11. The second one is meant for land usage; it might survive immersion in salt water, or it might not - if it has any metal parts without protective coatings, they will rust. Regardless, the Salted Line housing does not have rails for attaching an LCD magnifier, it only has four little pegs for attaching the bundled hood, and there's the cylindrical viewfinder in the upper left corner that intrudes a bit into the LCD. The way you attach a magnifier to it is make a few cuts in its hood and sew it onto the bundled hood, so that it functions as the intermediate interface - see the Scubaboard post I linked earlier. The D&D universal magnifier uses cords to attach to the housing; they go around the front and might hold it securely enough without any DIY action. For photos, just shoot RAW and adjust the white balance in post. If you're staying on the surface, then no, it's not really possible. If you want to shoot quality pictures without going full SCUBA, then you need to learn breath-hold freediving. I'm referring to electronic level, not viewfinder - https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/support/articles/00014661 16-50mm is a good lens, just not always wide enough when you get close to a subject. Consider adding a wet lens such as AOI/Fantasea UWL-09 - you can attach and detach it underwater, to suit the shot, although if you do that you will also need a way to carry it while detached. If you use the 10-18mm, then you will also need a dome port - using it underwater with a flat port produces extreme levels of distortion. RAW format records the raw data from the camera's sensor - basically, the read-out charge level of each individual photosite, whereas recording in JPEG has the camera's processor take that raw data and create an image from it. In this process, some of the data is discarded. Shooting RAW and processing it manually allows you to define your own settings for processing the image, and is highly useful when shooting underwater, especially in natural light. If you try to post-process JPEGs, the results won't be as good.
  12. It's a stingray of some sort, but I can't tell exactly which species. Mantas are pelagic, i.e. they swim freely in the water column, whereas your stingray is benthic, living on the bottom. Mantas are also huge, reaching 15-20 feet in wingspan. EVF is useless without an add-on viewfinder, and SeaFrogs don't have one. I considered adapting an Inon viewfinder to the SeaFrogs housing, but then saw a tremendously good deal on a Nauticam LCD magnifier and went with that. If you're having issues seeing the LCD, make sure your brightness is set to full (I always have it in 'sunny weather' mode). Also, the shots that you posted seem to indicate that you're shooting downwards - this is a common beginner mistake, but underwater photos tend to look much better when taken at an upward angle. I'm not sure whether or not the a6100 has an electronic level - I know a6000 doesn't, while my a6300 does, and I find it extremely useful at reminding me not to point the camera down. If you point the camera upward and have the bundled LCD hood attached, that should cut down on the glare quite a bit. Like Chris said, get close, and then get closer. Shoot in RAW, then use white balance point tool in your processing software to color balance the image from something that is neutral grey - a patch of sand or rock, another diver's tank, grey fish scales, etc. If there is nothing in the shot that's suitably grey, copy the white balance settings from another shot taken at around the same time in similar conditions. Note that getting close enough to larger subjects for good color and contrast requires an ultrawide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) lens - 16mm on APS-C, behind a flat port that further reduces the field of view is not particularly wide. Assuming you're using the default flat port with the SeaFrogs housing, you can either change to a Sony 10-18mm lens with a dome port (either 6-inch or 8-inch), or a wet wide lens such as Weefine/Kraken WFL-01/KRL-01 or AOI/Fantasea UWL-09 and mount it on a threaded flat port. There is a flip adapter that allows mounting M67 wet lenses to the basic port, but it's expensive and won't work very well with 16-50mm + wet wide lens in that port because there is a significant gap between the camera lens front element and the port glass - the port is built to accommodate the 10-18mm lens at full extension, which is somewhat longer than the 16-50mm. Edit: I was browsing unterwasserkamera.at and found this: https://www.unterwasserkamera.at/shop/catalog/en/product_info.php?info=p5361_d-d-lcd-viewfinder-universal.html
  13. You can try this: https://scubaboard.com/community/threads/seafrogs-salted-line-housing-with-fantasea-lcd-magnifier.575518/ That's, uh, not a manta Trust me, you'll know a manta ray when you see one, and that ain't it. Nothing wrong with ISO 100 if you have enough light to shoot with. If there is not enough light and the camera emphasizes ISO at the cost of too slow shutter speed, resulting in blurred pictures, you can shoot in shutter priority mode, set the shutter speed to something fast enough (1/250, 1/500, whatever) and let the ISO and aperture float, or shoot manual mode with fixed shutter speed and aperture and let auto ISO fix the total exposure. Most people here shoot full manual though, with direct control over all three points of the exposure triangle.
  14. RX100 II had contrast-detection autofocus. Modern mirrorless cameras (with the exception of Panasonic and some entry-level Olympus models) offer phase-detection autofocus that is similar to, and in some cases exceeds, the capabilities of DSLRs. Something like an A7C + 24mm f/2.8 + WWL-C is hardly any bigger than an RX100 rig, while offering you a 24MP full-frame sensor. No DSLR system can match this.
  15. Got my ISDT N16. Here it is next to a Liitokala Lii-S8, Lii-500, XTAR FC2 and a credit card: The casing is metal, so it should be pretty good at dissipating heat, but it still gets plenty warm when operating. There is a USB-C port, but it can't draw power from it - I'm guessing it's only used for software updates and the like. A shame, since I have several high-powered (65-100W) USB chargers that could save me another wall wart in my luggage. It has change/discharge/reactivate/analyze functions, but the setting is global for all sixteen bays at a time. Current draw can be set from 0.1A to 1.5A in 0.1A increments, which is also global. Total power draw can be capped, with 36W being the maximum setting. However, when charging sixteen cells at maximum rate (1.5A setting) reported current draw was 0.9A~1.1A per cell (it varied between batteries). I also had several cells that the Lii-500 refused to charge or test, showing weird voltage readings (1.8V in some cases, over 4V in others), and the N16 managed them without issues. Since I'm carrying 40x AA, 2x 26650, 2x21700 and a few 18650s (unless I'm planning to shoot fluorescence, in which case I need more 18650s), I think I can make do with just the N16 and FC2 in my dive photo kit bag.
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