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Barmaglot last won the day on October 1

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About Barmaglot

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  1. Yes, but they're not class A/B/C/whatever; those have been retired long, long ago. People use 'classes' as shorthand for /8, /16 and /24 subnet masks, but that is incorrect.
  2. It's not 169.x.x.x, it's, which is reserved for link-local addresses/APIPA. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reserved_IP_addresses https://study-ccna.com/apipa-automatic-private-ip-addressing/
  3. Classful routing hasn't been a thing since sometime in the 80s. That said, unless something is hardcoded in that camera in some weird fashion, it shouldn't matter which subnet you use for what is effectively a point to point link.
  4. This isn't black magic; the procedure described sounds like the camera is set up to pull a DHCP lease, but with a direct connection between workstation and camera and no DHCP server involved, it times out and falls back to APIPA (automatic private IP address) - that's why it takes several minutes, for both the camera and the workstation to time out on DHCP discovery and assign themselves something in the - range, with a /16 subnet. Once this happens, you configure the random address as static, and the application autodiscovers the camera, probably by the means of network broadcast. It reads as a result of someone randomly poking around in the dark with no idea of what they're doing - you can arrive to the same result much faster by either configuring static IPs in the same subnet to begin with (and with a direct connection, you can go as small as a /30 subnet, instead of a /16), or by running a DHCP server on your machine.
  5. Do you have access to a C200 that you can try this with? Just using a laptop and a plain Ethernet cable, maybe through a friend of an in-store demo. Also, I do networking support for a living, and those instructions sound... odd to me. Should be much easier to just set a static IPs in the same subnet on the camera and computer, or even run a simple DHCP server server on your machine to hand out an address to the camera.
  6. I can see why they did it - it requires the least possible space inside the housing, and doesn't use any electronic components that need power and control. This is actually the reverse of what you'd want. This device connects to a Wi-Fi network and downlinks it to its Ethernet port. It's what you'd use if your camera did not have WiFi connectivity but rather only an RJ45 port, and you wanted to link it to a WiFi network. If you want to bridge your camera's WiFi to an Ethernet link to the surface, you need a WiFi access point that is small enough to fit into the housing and is powered by PoE (Power over Ethernet). I'm not sure such a device exists, access points tend to be pretty large. If I were you, I'd look into getting the camera's Ethernet link working properly.
  7. They're not running Ethernet down into the housing, they're just powering a dumb antenna in there - no electronics involved. The cable is carrying an RF signal, not Ethernet frames. Note that they're limited to 45 meters, which not quite the distance that you're looking for.
  8. http://www.anglerfishlighting.ca/remote-trigger-v30.html
  9. Ethernet (copper) spec is for a 100m run. Longer runs may work but are not guaranteed. 300m is going into 'well.... maaaaaaybe' territory. At those ranges, multimode fiber is typically the tool of choice. Why does the browser control work poorly on Ethernet? Some quirk of the camera software? I mean, it's TCP/IP regardless of transport media, and typically wired links work better than wireless. Maybe there's some problem with your specific Ethernet setup? Keep in mind that ff you're using WiFi bridges, you will also need some way of powering them.
  10. Which Meikon? I used to have the 4" one, and I don't recall it being 160mm across unless perhaps you measure the shade petals. WWL-1B is big all the way around, as it is quite deep and it has that integrated metal float collar.
  11. That better be one big pocket - WWL-1B is quite substantial, as far as wet lenses go.
  12. A few test shots in air are fine. If you want to do something stressful, like fire a long burst, put it in a bucket of water first.
  13. Right now, I have my rig set up with two 8-inch ladder arms on the inner segments, and two Weefine WFA37 adjustable float arms on the outer segments (just got those two recently; haven't had them in the water yet). The diopter lives on a dock attached to one of the ladder arms, facing inward, but I don't think there's any good place there to attach a double-sided one. I figure that if I make the move to WWL-C, I'll put two docks on the ladder arms, one on each side, facing in, with diopter on one and WWL on the other.
  14. By the way, if you don't mind me asking, do you have any plans to review the newer SeaFrogs housings?
  15. This is the thread: It's possible that the problem was between the Retra converter and @Jleonf314's YS-01 strobe, but he never did indicate whether or not he's seeing light flashes from the converter.
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