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Barmaglot

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Barmaglot last won the day on January 27

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About Barmaglot

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  1. Indeed. I'm curious to see an actual comparison between YS-D3, Z-330, Retra Prime/Pro and that new Ikelite strobe that was shown at DEMA.
  2. Backscatter and Bluewater Photo both list YS-D3, but ouch - $850 is within spitting distance of Retra Prime, and thus far there are no statistics to demonstrate improved reliability over YS-D2(J). With diving being shut down (almost?) everywhere, it'll take a while for these statistics to build up too.
  3. I think that a lift bag flopping around above the camera would get in the way a lot, much more trouble than it's worth. If you want to fine-tune buoyancy while in the water, a number of companies sell adjustable-lift float arms that can be partially flooded to reduce their lift. https://www.hugyfot.com/hugyfloat-compact/hugyfloat-adjustable.html https://www.krakensports.ca/product/kr-fa01-float-arm/?v=e4b09f3f8402 https://www.weefine.com/product/wfa37-adjustable-float-arm-88mm-180mm/ You can also DIY a similar system, like this.
  4. Triple clamps on the handles and a float arm across the top? Can be a good place for a dive computer as well.
  5. The neoprene will compress at depth, so if you want to get your rig perfectly neutral, you'll probably need a little more than that.
  6. I don't have access to salt water right now, but for Retra Pro in fresh water, I get about 190g negative with 4x Eneloop Pro batteries inside, ~90-100g negative with neoprene jacket. Dry weight with batteries is ~900-910g.
  7. This depends on the specific Inon. Z-330 has been measured to fire for about 1/300s at full power.
  8. Yes, it's a moisture detector. The photo is a of a SeaFrogs A6xxx Salted Line housing, and the converter replaces the moisture detector that ships with that housing. If that gold strip gets wet, the converter starts beeping loudly, same as the Meikon/SeaFrogs leak detector. If you're not too deep when a leak starts, you might be able to surface in time to save your camera and/or lens. See here for an example.
  9. Aiming light seemed to match the strobe output. I didn't get any shots worth posting, but this was my first (and so far only) dive using a snoot, so that's to be expected. Unless something changed, the neoprene jackets are a separate item, costing €35 each, while bumpers cost €49 on top of that. Interesting idea; haven't thought about that. It might be counterproductive though - the purpose of jackets is to protect the cosmetic condition of the strobe, retaining more of its value in case it ever needs to be resold, while sticky tape strong enough to stand up to salt water will likely leave its own residue on the strobe.
  10. The extended battery compartment is not yet available. The same part for the original Retra flash (no longer available) sold for $177, so that's probably in the ballpark for the new version when it comes out. I haven't seen anything specific about release date yet. I did 5 dives with a pair of Retra Pros so far, haven't measured recycling speed, but I have 2-second automatic review enabled on my camera after taking a shot, and I've never had the strobes lag behind that. They do eat batteries voraciously, although part of that was due to me exploring their performance envelope and doing quite a lot of full dumps. With a single strobe, an LSD, and a 90mm lens on f/22, I found that I needed full power to get decent exposures, although this was my first time using an LSD - perhaps I simply wasn't placing it close enough to the subject. The neoprene jackets slide back over the controls and forward over the front glass in a very annoying fashion; I'm almost 100% set on getting a set of bumpers before my next trip to limit that.
  11. Seconding @Kraken de Mabini here - I have recently switched from TTL-only strobes (SeaFrogs ST-100) to Retra Pros, and within a couple dives, I found the manual mode to be quite easy to operate.
  12. It's actually pretty convenient; I was switching between TTL and manual mid-dive today without issues.
  13. Correction - I finally got them in the water today, triggering off the pop-up flash on my Sony A6300, and turns out I was wrong about how the Smart SL mode works. There is no need to turn back to manual mode - I set the strobes to U2 (Smart SL), they start flashing yellow, I take a random shot to make the camera flash fire and they turn solid yellow. From that point on, every time I take a shot, they ignore the pre-flash (which cannot be turned off on my camera) and the power is adjusted using the left knob. If I turn the right knob to a different mode (TTL, turn off, whatever) then a new engagement of U2 (Smart SL) requires a new calibration shot. The knobs themselves are a joy to operate by the way - today was the first time I shot manual strobes and I was able to get it going almost right away.
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