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Barmaglot

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Everything posted by Barmaglot

  1. 16-35mm should be good on the FTZ adapter. Tokina 10-17mm will not autofocus and will apply DX crop. Nikon 10-24mm should autofocus, but will apply a DX crop. For the macro lenses, both 60mm and 105mm come in different versions - if you have AF-S lenses, they should work with the FTZ adapter, but AF or AF-D will not autofocus. Sigma 150-600mm should be fine. Note that you can adapt Nikon F-mount lenses to Sony cameras. It is not as popular as adapting Canon glass, but adapters do exist - https://briansmith.com/nikon-lens-adapters-sony-e-mount-cameras/
  2. There's also the part where D9 is a dual-grip body with a humongous housing, DX lenses needing crop mode on an FX body, and limited compatibility of FTZ adapter with older F-mount glass - you didn't list what lenses you have, but before upgrading to a Z9, you need to check each one for compatibility.
  3. As far as I can tell, the Outex data kit gives you an adapter which you can use to pass a cable of your choice from inside the bag to outside. If you get strobes with electric sync, you can use a spare bulkhead from another housing to convert the hot-shoe connector into a Nikonos plug or whatever, something like this, and then use a regular dual sync cord (example) to go to your strobes. You might even be able to integrate the bulkhead into the Outex adapter, so that the 5-pin connector is on the outside. Alternatively, if your strobes support optical triggering, you could mount a small flash or LED trigger on your camera, and run fiber optics to the outside. Me, I wouldn't dare to submerge either setup if it was my camera.
  4. No, zoom in completely and practice in a bathtub, or kitchen sink, or whatever, until you get the feel of proper distance between camera and subject. You can try setting your lens to manual focus, turning it to closest focus distance, then moving the camera in and out until the subject is in focus. If, however, the subjects that you typically shoot are larger than what CMC-1 affords you (approximately 45mm across), then you will need the weaker CMC-2.
  5. In that case you're too close. Per Nauticam's port chart, the working distance of CMC-1 on RX100V is 55-75mm - this means that you have to be no further away than 75mm (3 inches), and no closer than 55mm (5.2 inches), giving you just 2cm (0.8 inches) worth of working distance range.
  6. Judging by the vignetting in your example, it looks like you're using the close-up lens while the camera is zoomed out. This is not the right way to do it - you should be zoomed in all the way to 70mm. If the camera doesn't focus, this means you need to get either further away from the subject, or closer - most likely the latter. Your working distance with CMC-1 is 55-75mm; it will not focus outside that distance range. Note that CMC-1 is a fairly strong close-up lens; at the closest working distance, your subject size is 35x23mm. A CMC-2 will let you stand somewhat further away, with a working distance of 80-124mm, and smallest subject size of 48x32mm.
  7. In theory, would it be possible to construct a rectilinear ultrawide (weitwinkel) (rather than fisheye) underwater lens that wouldn't require a huge dome to get corner-to-corner sharpness when shooting at wide apertures? I.E. correct for aberrations with proper lens design? The matter of spacing doesn't sound like a very big deal to me; making half a dozen different adapter rings to fit Nauticam/Seacam/Subal/Aquatica/Isotta/Marelux is probably the easiest part of the design.
  8. Doesn't have to be Canon/Nikon/Sony themselves - it could be some lens manufacturer, like Tamron, Sigma, Samyang, Yongnuo, Laowa, etc. Many lenses in their portfolio are quite niche and low-volume, yet they keep designing and making them.
  9. Small as it is, it's big enough to support the creation of ultra-premium optics like the Nauticam WACP-1 and WACP-2. As I understand it, those use some of the largest lens elements currently manufactured, on par with the massive telephoto lenses used by sports and wildlife photographers. A small ultrawide (weitwinkel)/fisheye along the lines of R-UW 13mm would have a much lower production cost, wouldn't it?
  10. Nikon kinda tried that with AW1, it didn't take. I wonder how feasible it would be to make a modern Nikonos RS 13mm equivalent, i.e. a modern autofocusing lens with dedicated underwater optics targeting N120 housing mount, with a camera communication module for Canon/Nikon/Sony mirrorless cameras to allow autofocus, aperture, and possibly zoom control. Without the constraints of working around existing land lenses, could it be made much smaller and lighter than the WACP series? People are still paying thousands for decades-old R-UW 13mm lenses, and thousands more for the conversion service, so the market is evidently there...
  11. I'm not confused, and I'm well aware of that. What I am saying is, in my experience, a Retra Pro (not X), equipped with a supercharger and loaded with eight Eneloop Pro batteries, set into into manual mode, with the power knob set to '50 (+2)', two clicks under full power, and a Sony A6300 with UW-Technics converter as the triggering source, is able to keep up with the camera set to continuous-low (3fps) for a dozen-plus shots, without dropping exposure levels to a noticeable degree. This indicates that eight Eneloop Pro batteries are able to supply enough current for three half-power dumps every second, i.e. 225 joules per second (assuming that each 50% flash uses 75 out of the strobe's rated 150 joules) plus circuitry losses. Charging up to full power takes longer than double of zero-to-half, but still, firing full-power dumps out of a Retra Pro and supercharger every 2.5-3 seconds is quite realistic. By manufacturer's specification, it takes a Retra Pro with 8 batteries 1.5s to charge up to 80%, 1.3s for the newer Retra Pro X. Prime models with their smaller capacitor banks are faster (1s and 0.8s respectively), so I assume that the primary limiting factor is the current supplied by the batteries.
  12. I'm not shooting full power at 3fps, but I have tested it with a strobe in a plastic tub of water, and at half power, with supercharger and Eneloop Pro batteries, I was getting a continuous series of equally exposed frames with the camera drive mode set to continuous-low. At three-quarters or full power, the brightness dropped off after the first frame, but at half-power it was fine. I didn't push it past a dozen or so shots, but that's well past the point where the capacitors would've drained.
  13. But seeing as how the increased power is the selling point of YS-D2 and YS-D3, why spend money on them if you can't actually use it? Why not get YS-D1s, Z-240s, or D-200s at half the cost? Me, I shoot Retra Pros with APS-C, and while I don't use the full power all the time, it does come in handy on occasion, and I like feeling safe when doing full-power dumps every few seconds or half-power at 3fps.
  14. Right until it blows up and you have to pay 80% of a new strobe cost for a repair. That game of one-upmanship that Sea & Sea has engaged in with Inon in recent years, driving the same tubes harder and harder with bigger capacitor banks, really has led them down a wrong path.
  15. Basically, if you are shooting CFWA and need wider light coverage, the solution is to pull the strobes back, not fit wider diffusers.
  16. I don't own the macro rings, and I only use the reduction rings to mount the reflectors. The reflectors attach to reduction rings via o-ring friction. They do not have the three-lug bayonet required to attach to the strobe itself.
  17. The reflector narrows the beam angle and boosts intensity, but the beam it produces is not that narrow, it's not a snoot - in general, I have found reflector-adjusted beams to be wide enough when shooting my 16-50mm in a dome (APS-C), but not wide enough when shooting 10-18mm. In general, my primary use-case for the reflectors is taking distant shots of skittish subjects. Usually I just turn it off. I have tried a couple times to compose a shot where one strobe would light the general area at low power, and the other strobe would create a highlight on a subject using the LSD, but have not been successful yet. The focus point of the LSD is 175mm from its front glass (in water! the behavior in air is different), this is where the spotlight is smallest, brightest, and has the sharpest edges. Further or closer than that, it gets bigger, with more diffused edges. I've seen some people do it, but haven't had the opportunity to try it myself. Double-ender bolt snaps on shoulder D-rings. The diffusers, LSD, masks and the reduction rings used to mount reflectors all come with handy paracord loops that can hook up to those. Diffusers or reflectors on their rings can also go into BCD or thigh pockets, but the LSD is too big for that.
  18. WACP-1 chart features the 12-35mm, although the zoom range is limited to 14-30mm or less, depending on extension.
  19. I recall meeting https://www.instagram.com/aidan.buckle/ on a liveaboard last year and if memory serves me right, he was shooting a Sony A7 III with 16-35mm in a SeaFrogs housing with 6" dome.
  20. I haven't tried it myself, but I was told by someone who did that it does not provide adequate coverage for a full-frame camera; APS-C crop is the best it can do.
  21. This is the one you'd use: https://uwtechnics.com/index.php/online-store/ttl-converters/for-sony/16034-ttl-converter-for-sony-a7iii-a7ii-for-seafrogs-meikon-housings-detail Its LED plug replaces the wired sync bulkhead, so it can be used with SeaFrogs housings that don't have an optical bulkhead. Thinking about it now, there's a single LED in there, so it might last longer than the twin-LED version that I use in my A6xxx housing.
  22. I put a dive computer there, so that it's always in front of my eyes, although I mount it between the right tray handle and cold shoe.
  23. I use a UW-Technics trigger (also in a SeaFrogs housing); it runs off a pair of CR1220 batteries which last, in my experience, for a few dozen dives at around a hundred shots per dive. However, when the batteries do run low, it usually happens in the middle of a dive with no warning, which is really annoying. As a rule, I pop in fresh batteries at the beginning of a liveaboard trip and that is near-guaranteed to last until the end.
  24. The tray is fine, so are the arms - what you have encountered are cheap crappy clamps. Get a set of ULCS (Ultralight Control Systems) clamps and forget about issues. If you're using two arm segments per side then you're best off with four regular clamps and two long ones to connect the segments; that way you have enough space to add floats as needed. https://www.divervision.com/tray-arm/ultralight-ac-csf-new-style-clamp-ac-csf https://www.divervision.com/tray-arm/ultralight-ac-csl-new-style-long-clamp-ac-csl If you mount an additional arm across the top of your tray, then replace two of the regular clamps with triples https://www.divervision.com/tray-arm/ultralight-ac-tcs-triple-clamp-ac-tcs
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