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Everything posted by Barmaglot

  1. Yes, I know, but look at the Z-330 Type 2 that is being sold now: http://www.inon.jp/products/strobe/z330/top.html Instead of a clear dome, the front glass now features some kind of insect eye patterning. That's why I'm curious as to how effective is this new glass at smoothing out the cross created by the two lamps placed at 90 degrees to one another. I mean, the interest is totally academic, as I have zero intention of replacing my pair of Retra Pros anytime soon, but I'm still curious.
  2. If I remember old posts correctly, Inon Z-240 was measured to dump 52 joules into a maximum power flash, and Z-330 was measured at 107 joules. Ikelite rates their strobes by joules capacity, so DS160/161 is 160 joules, but spreads the light a lot more evenly, hence the lower guide number but better actual performance. Retras are 100 and 150 for Prime and Pro models respectively. The rated guide numbers for Z-240 and Z-330 are achieved only in a very small spot in the middle of the frame, although I wonder - those older measurements were made with clear front glass, and Z-330 II has that built-in diffuser/reflector, so the cross-shaped light pattern shouldn't be as pronounced any more.
  3. It's actually worse than that. The specs page says that GN is 22, and beam angle is 85 degrees with diffusers, so the actual guide number is considerably lower than that - normal beam angle, at which that GN22 is presumably achieved, is quoted at just 45 degrees
  4. Yes, but they're not class A/B/C/whatever; those have been retired long, long ago. People use 'classes' as shorthand for /8, /16 and /24 subnet masks, but that is incorrect.
  5. It's not 169.x.x.x, it's, which is reserved for link-local addresses/APIPA. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reserved_IP_addresses https://study-ccna.com/apipa-automatic-private-ip-addressing/
  6. Classful routing hasn't been a thing since sometime in the 80s. That said, unless something is hardcoded in that camera in some weird fashion, it shouldn't matter which subnet you use for what is effectively a point to point link.
  7. This isn't black magic; the procedure described sounds like the camera is set up to pull a DHCP lease, but with a direct connection between workstation and camera and no DHCP server involved, it times out and falls back to APIPA (automatic private IP address) - that's why it takes several minutes, for both the camera and the workstation to time out on DHCP discovery and assign themselves something in the - range, with a /16 subnet. Once this happens, you configure the random address as static, and the application autodiscovers the camera, probably by the means of network broadcast. It reads as a result of someone randomly poking around in the dark with no idea of what they're doing - you can arrive to the same result much faster by either configuring static IPs in the same subnet to begin with (and with a direct connection, you can go as small as a /30 subnet, instead of a /16), or by running a DHCP server on your machine.
  8. Do you have access to a C200 that you can try this with? Just using a laptop and a plain Ethernet cable, maybe through a friend of an in-store demo. Also, I do networking support for a living, and those instructions sound... odd to me. Should be much easier to just set a static IPs in the same subnet on the camera and computer, or even run a simple DHCP server server on your machine to hand out an address to the camera.
  9. I can see why they did it - it requires the least possible space inside the housing, and doesn't use any electronic components that need power and control. This is actually the reverse of what you'd want. This device connects to a Wi-Fi network and downlinks it to its Ethernet port. It's what you'd use if your camera did not have WiFi connectivity but rather only an RJ45 port, and you wanted to link it to a WiFi network. If you want to bridge your camera's WiFi to an Ethernet link to the surface, you need a WiFi access point that is small enough to fit into the housing and is powered by PoE (Power over Ethernet). I'm not sure such a device exists, access points tend to be pretty large. If I were you, I'd look into getting the camera's Ethernet link working properly.
  10. They're not running Ethernet down into the housing, they're just powering a dumb antenna in there - no electronics involved. The cable is carrying an RF signal, not Ethernet frames. Note that they're limited to 45 meters, which not quite the distance that you're looking for.
  11. http://www.anglerfishlighting.ca/remote-trigger-v30.html
  12. Ethernet (copper) spec is for a 100m run. Longer runs may work but are not guaranteed. 300m is going into 'well.... maaaaaaybe' territory. At those ranges, multimode fiber is typically the tool of choice. Why does the browser control work poorly on Ethernet? Some quirk of the camera software? I mean, it's TCP/IP regardless of transport media, and typically wired links work better than wireless. Maybe there's some problem with your specific Ethernet setup? Keep in mind that ff you're using WiFi bridges, you will also need some way of powering them.
  13. Which Meikon? I used to have the 4" one, and I don't recall it being 160mm across unless perhaps you measure the shade petals. WWL-1B is big all the way around, as it is quite deep and it has that integrated metal float collar.
  14. That better be one big pocket - WWL-1B is quite substantial, as far as wet lenses go.
  15. A few test shots in air are fine. If you want to do something stressful, like fire a long burst, put it in a bucket of water first.
  16. Right now, I have my rig set up with two 8-inch ladder arms on the inner segments, and two Weefine WFA37 adjustable float arms on the outer segments (just got those two recently; haven't had them in the water yet). The diopter lives on a dock attached to one of the ladder arms, facing inward, but I don't think there's any good place there to attach a double-sided one. I figure that if I make the move to WWL-C, I'll put two docks on the ladder arms, one on each side, facing in, with diopter on one and WWL on the other.
  17. By the way, if you don't mind me asking, do you have any plans to review the newer SeaFrogs housings?
  18. This is the thread: It's possible that the problem was between the Retra converter and @Jleonf314's YS-01 strobe, but he never did indicate whether or not he's seeing light flashes from the converter.
  19. Yes, but didn't someone post here recently about problems getting it to work with a SeaFrogs housing?
  20. My first whale shark encounter was actually at Richelieu Rock, spring of 2018 - we dropped to 30m, found a fairly big seahorse, shallowed up a bit, and suddenly there's banging on tanks, and a whale shark swims in. Last season, yeah, I was told no whale shark sightings in Andaman
  21. A6300 in my case. A large part of my diving is in Thailand, and on many sites there, you simply don't know what you're going to get. At Richelieu Rock, I can see a group of harlequin shrimp, or an ornate ghost pipefish, turn around, and there's a big ball of trevallys or barracudas. Aside from what ChrisRoss said (I was hoping for that experimental anti-covid gene-therapy that everyone is saying will mess up your genome would give me something useful, like a third hand, or a prehensile tail, but nooooo), a bare 16-50mm behind a flat port is useful for shooting skittish fish from a moderate distance. For example, this is a very significant crop of a juvenile emperor angelfish shot at 50mm through a dome: I'm pretty sure a WWL-C is too large and heavy to be used with a flip holder, especially a dual one.
  22. I think I understand the picture, but I just want to validate it - if I want to run my setup in a flexible mode (wide-angle to macro on the same dive) with a Sony 16-50mm lens behind M67 threaded flat port, I need: WWL-C 83250 M67 to Bayonet Converter II - on the port, to mount the WWL-C 83214 Bayonet Mount Adaptor - to mount my M67 diopter on the port (WFL-05S, it has a protruding rear element for use with adapters) 83252 Bayonet Holder for Arms x2 - one on each arm, to park the WWL-C and WFL-05S when they're not in use Am I missing anything? Also, right now I'm using magnetic rings to attach and park the diopter; there is no way to use them with the WWL-C, correct? Nauticam bayonet mount only?
  23. Yes, that is correct. You will need that cable, or the dual version if you get two strobes. Be mindful that each of the plugs is sealed with an o-ring, and these o-rings are potential water entry points. Alternatively, you can get this kit and use fiber optics plus get the option of TTL, but it's expensive. If you go with the sync cord, it should work with Inon (Z-240, Z-330) and Sea & Sea strobes (YS-D1, YS-D2, YS-D3), but not optical-only strobes like the Retras, Sea & Sea YS-01, or Inon S-2000. I'm not sure about Ikelite DS-160/161, they use wired sync, but I recall seeing compatibility warnings with them and Meikon / SeaFrogs housngs. 28-75 is a midrange zoom, whereas 16-35 is an ultra-wide (weitwinkel). Neither is 'better' than the other; they just do different things. 16-35 is better for large pelagics and reefscapes, 28-75 is handier for fish portraits. In very clear water, with good strobes, you can step back and try to do some reefscapes at its wide end, but it's not a sure thing. For example, this was shot with a 16-50mm (APS-C, so 24-75mm equivalent) from a couple meters away: Where a mid-range zoom does shine is flexibility - this photo was taken just a few minutes earlier, on the same dive: And a few minutes after that, I was playing with the nemos: Unfortunately, SeaFrogs doesn't have a zoom gear for Tamron 28-75mm, so you'll have to either design and 3D print one, or adapt a zoom gear from some other lens. They also have a note on their port chart that it has soft corners at 75mm when used in a six-inch dome, and is limited to 28-60mm when used with the default flat port.
  24. Unfortunately @ashic has a SeaFrogs housing that predates that trigger and doesn't have an optical bulkhead. The SeaFrogs optical trigger only works with their housings for A7S III, A1, A7C and A6600. For the rest of SeaFrogs housing, the UWT board with replacement bulkhead (or LED board in case of A6xxx) is the only option that I know of.
  25. Sorry, I must've confused you with another recent poster that's using an A7 III in a SeaFrogs housing and was looking to upgrade (A7C in his case). No, in your case you need strobes that take wired sync, and it will be manual operation only, no TTL. Either Inon Z-330 or Sea & Sea YS-D3 will work, you just need the proper cables. This is not actually that straightforward. On land strobes, the TTL circuitry is typically built into the strobe, but in underwater strobes, this is almost never the case. The only ones that I know of to do this are SeaCam SeaFlash strobes, and they only support Canon and Nikon (older models were Canon or Nikon, as in you had to buy a specific model to work with your camera, but the latest ones support both). With anything else, you need to buy a TTL converter board to bridge the gap between the hot shoe of your camera and the cable that goes to the strobes. https://uwtechnics.com/ is a popular manufacturer of these boards; if you browse their website, you'll see a large number of models targeting various types of housings and camera models. If you're using fiber optics, then your options for TTL operation are somewhat different. Most underwater strobes on the market today offer TTL-slave function, where they will light up and quench following an optical signal from the camera. This signal can be generated by a TTL converter (UWT boards typically support both wired triggering and a LED board to drive fiber optics in this fashion) or a pop-up/clip-on flash where that is available. Unfortunately, with the Sony A1/A7/A9 series cameras, there is no onboard flash, so out of the box, you can only use direct wired connection which does not offer TTL. If you buy a UWT converter for your housing, it comes with a replacement bulkhead that houses an LED inside, and that can be used to drive strobes over fiber optics, in either manual or TTL mode. Caveat: YS-D3 is not guaranteed to work in this scenario; wired triggering is better with that model. I'm in Israel and I got my Retras direct from the manufacturer, https://www.retra-uwt.com/ Note that Retra strobes only take optical triggering, and your housing, without a UWT board, only has wired output, so unless you're ready to make an additional investment, they are not a good fit for you. I would recommend Z-330s. They are highly regarded, and don't have the optical triggering issues that YS-D3s suffer from. Sea & Sea has also acquired somewhat of a reputation for unreliability in recent years - YS-D2 was really bad, YS-D2J was somewhat better, and I've seen multiple reports of YS-D3s dying as well. Unfortunately it doesn't work that way. The strobes produce rich, vivid colors in underwater photographs by overwhelming natural light, which carries a strong blue/green tint due to water filtering out longer wavelengths. Look at the second sea fan photo that I posted earlier - that color gradient is produced as the strobe light loses intensity and loses its fight against natural light. With a pair of 5K lumen lights that I had at the beginning, they would reach out to maybe 30-40cm to produce this effect - enough for macro shots, not nearly enough for wide-angle. Piling on the ISO will only admit more natural light; it will not restore color.
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