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root_se

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Everything posted by root_se

  1. Do you have any pictures of your AD-mount? The reflections could be from some light entering the port, either from the flash or just ambient light. If you have shiny parts on the camera try to cover then using some black fabric. When they are finished... Now they are just lying on the shelf waiting to be polished and anodized. They are nothing special. The construction is almost a copy of other strobe arms. They are made from solid aluminium. Drilled and turned. I will do my best.... /Martin
  2. The lens will slide into the front of the port and seal againt the o-ring. Since everything is round, it can rotate freely and you adjust the dome this way. You want the shades at top and botttom. You dont need to loosen the screws holding the dome to the UWL-100 to adjust. It's about 2-3 mm. No, the lens is hold in place by 3 or more screws (seen on the port-picture) These screws will go into the grove above the M67-ring securing the lens. Yes, you could design a new ring but that would be too large and it would be impossible to get the UWL-100 that close to the camera lens. It is very tight as it is. You would also need to have an extra o-ring seal, one more thing to take care of. /Martin
  3. Yes, there are the original o-ring between the housing and port and then one between port and lens. The one bewteen port and lens are pre-compressed a small amount to make sure it will seal. A small amount of o-ring grease make it simple to put together. After the lens is in place, just rotate it until it is in the correct position and then lock the lens in place. The ring with M67 threads will have to be removed from the lens. It is the surface behind this that will seal against the port using the o-ring. /Martin
  4. Thanks! Its alwas nice to hear nice things... The port is mounted the same way as the old port. You can remove it by turning it counter clockwise. I made the same threads on my port and the same o-ring grove as on the original port. The back of my port looks exactly as the original port. The main reason for removing the glass was so I could minimize the distance from the camera lens to the UWL-100 lens. The distance from the inside of the glass to the UWL-100 was about 7-10 mm and that made a huge difference in the corner sharpness.. One other advantage with this solution is that you can make split-images without the problem with some water/air mix between the lens and port. You will also never have any particles between the port and lens. I'm acually from Sweden... /Martin
  5. It is the same angle of view. The distance from the object might be a little different. The soft corners will be there regardless of the distance of the object. No, it's not a 100% comparison but the conclusion is the same. I have many testpictures and I choosed one of them. Yes, it will get sharper with increasing F-number but I want to show the worst case senario and that you will get a nice picture even if you need a large apature. Taking WA-pictures here in Sweden with a G9 requires a large apature. The "After" image is also taken using f/2.8 Yes, vingetting will disappear if zooming but zooming slightly on the G9 will move the lens away from the WA-lens, giving you an even worse corner sharpness. You will also loose some of the nice wide FOV. Attached image shows crop taken with f/8. You will loose almost 3 stops compared to f/2.8 and that is much here in Sweden with poor visibility. /Martin
  6. You will have to do it really fast... That is one negative thing with the port. You are stuck with the WA the whole dive. I could maybe make some more ports but I cannot guarantee that it will be watertight... The dimensions of the UWL-100 are critical since the port will seal against the lens, and I don’t know if it has changed over the years. I could post the critical dimensions so you could verify that it is the same size. The port could quite easy be adapted to other cameras. If the threads are the same on the housing the only thing I would have to change is the distance from the lens to the housing. The WA lens could not be closer than 2-3 mm from the outside of the housing. The G9-lens is flush with the outside of the housing at its widest settings At the moment I have not tried it deeper that my bath tub and I have no equipment to do a full pressure test. It is designed to handle the pressure but testing it would be nice. /Martin
  7. After some time just reading this great forum I thought that I might contribute with something in the D.I.Y-area. I have an Ikelite housing for my Canon G9 and was interested in wider angle of view. After some research I decided on the Inon UWL-100 with the dome. I also got the short wide-port that Ikelite sells. When I got the lens I couldn’t wait to try it in the ocean so I decided to try it in the bath tub. I was very disappointed. There was very smooth corners and some minor vinjetting. I decided to fix the problem. The solution was a new homemade port for my lens and housing. Here are some photos showing before: The port and the attached to the port: Picture after the modification: You could visit my website for some more info. /Martin
  8. The lens is an Olympus PTWC-01 (x0.6). It can only be used under water and I'm still waiting for my 67mm adapter to my Ikelite housing so I havn't been able to test it yet. It has been out of stock since december... I'll have to take it to a indoor swimming pool to test it when the adapter arrives. There should be a nice square-pattern on the bottom. We have about 30 cm (1 foot) of snow here (witch is rare)... To cold in the ocean... I'll get back when I have tested it. /Martin
  9. Hi! I have an Ikelite housing for my Sony DSC-W12 and I'm adding a WA lens. How important is it that the camera lens i exactly in the center of the WA lens? My lens is of by about 1-2 mm. /Martin
  10. Hi! I have a Sony DSC W12 in an Ikelite house. I can set the focus manualy in a few steps (0.5, 1, 3, 7, inf). If there a way to recalculate these steps when using it under water with and without WA-lens (x0.6). What focus depth could I expect using F2.8, f7.9mm(38mm) 1/1.8" CCD. /Martin
  11. Hi! This is a late reply... Just joined WetPixel. I use dual Sea&Sea YS60 with the Digital Adapter from http://www.heinrichsweikamp.net/blitz/indexe.htm with my DSC W1 and it will probably work with the W5 and W7. It works great. /Martin
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