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bobk3333

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About bobk3333

  • Rank
    Sea Nettle

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus E-M1 Mark ii
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea YS-D2
  1. What is the length? Is it the same as this one: http://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/nauticam-lanyard-with-shackle
  2. I really like the wider perspective on that versus the 90mm. Do you find you have to get so close with the 50mm that you are practically touching the subjects? .
  3. Sweet setup. Is this the latest version of the RX100 -- i.e. Model V?
  4. Excellent review! My concern is the size: the GH5 might be too chunky for me. Excerpt from the review: "The Panasonic GH5 sits taller and is much thicker than the E-M1 Mark II and A7R II, especially when you take into account the larger eyecup around the electronic viewfinder. It also weighs the most, coming in at 1.6lbs, compared to the E-M1 Mark II’s 1.27lbs and the A7R II’s 1.38lbs. " The Nauticam housing for the Sony a7rii is huge, imo, for a mirrorless. The GH5 Nauticam housing is probably even bigger. The image quality of micro four thirds can't touch that of the a7rii, imo, so doesn't a bigger camera and housing defeat the main purpose -- i.e smaller and lighter -- of using MFT cameras for underwater photography?
  5. Thanks for the reply, Bill! Here are the lengths and weights for each of three Inon telescopic arms: http://www.inon.jp/products/armsystem/arm.html short (S): 11.0in to 20.2in Effective length: 260mm (10.2in) to 495mm (19.4in) 120g (4.2oz) [air] / approx.57g (2.0oz) [underwater] $99 on Amazon medium (M): 11" to 20.2" Effective length: 350mm (13.7in) to 770mm (30.3in) 211g (7.4oz) [air] / approx.88g (3.1oz) [underwater] $135 on Amazon long (L): 18.1" to 41.5 Effective length: 350mm (13.7in) to 770mm (30.3in) 262g (9.2oz) [air] / approx.106g (3.7oz) [underwater] $160 on Amazon As comparisons, two Ultralight Control Systems arm setups: http://www.ulcs.com/index.php/products/arms-clamps/weights-and-measurements 5" + 8" arm combo carry length = 8", total expanded length = 19" 14 oz (air) / 9.5 oz (underwater) ULCS double-ball arms are $48 for 5". 8" and 12", so $96 without clamps) 12" + 16" carry length = 16", expanded = 34" 17 oz (air) / 12 oz (underwater) ULCS double-ball arms are $48 for 5", 8" and 12" and $50 for 16" so $98 without clamps) In conclusion, probably because they are carbon fiber, the Inon telescopic arms are much lighter in weight (almost half the weight), but just a little bit longer. They might be a little bit bulkier because they are cylinders instead of flat. The short telescopic ($99) is cheaper, the medium ($135) is a tad more expensive and the longs ($160) are more expensive, but not prohibitive. Also, the Inon telescopics have their own proprietary Mega Float system, which might be good or bad depending on how well they are implemented. I would sure like to do a side by side, in-person, physical comparison. I am undecided. But, no doubt, they work and they are cool! The Inon telescopic arms were released less than a year ago, but they *feel* like a long term solution. I need to do more research and maybe get more comments from the experts here at wetpixel.com. I searched for the telescopic arms on these forums but could not find anything about the Inons. I am taking a trip to Asia and it will be my first underwater photography experience, so it might be smarter to go with tried and true solutions -- probably Nauticam float arms, plus ULCS regular arms with Stix floats. If I buy the telescopic arms, it will probably be the longs, Might as well get something that can do backlighting easily, and possibly even selfies. (Alex Mustard used an assistant to do backlighting in his book.) This means I would have to get fiber optic cables that accommodate the 41" length. The long is 7-inches longer than the medium, but long cylindrical things can usually fit vertically in corners or sides of a travel bag fairly easily. The question is how the length handles underwater and on a boat (especially with extra long strobe cables on them), but the fact that telescopic collapses should make them shorter until you need the extra length. .
  6. http://www.scubaverse.com/s-u-p-e-r-part-14-inon-telescopic-arms-2/ Are these telescopic strobe arms viable? It would be great to have the option to extend the arms.
  7. The picture that has five snoots shows one for YS-D2. Do you have one for the YS-D2?
  8. I am just getting started and have never done UW photography before.. Nonetheless, I am leaving for a two to three week UW photography trip to Asia on May 4th. Please let me go through what I have and what I think I need to buy. I already had the Olympus E-M1 Mark II camera, plus computer equipment and Adobe CC with Lightroom and Photoshop. I literally bought my first UW photography gear from ebay yesterday: -Nauticam CMC-1 $212.50 -Nauticam WWL-1 $531.00 -Panasonic PZ 14-42mm lens + Nauticam Port 29 + focus gear $338.33 The plan is to purchase: -Nauticam housing for E-M1 Mark II with vacuum alert protection -Panasonic 8mm f3.5 ( seems like a cost effective wide angle for a starter system -- compared to the 8mm PRO,) -Nauticam 4.33 inch port for Panasonic 8mm with PF-8 focus gear (With such a small port, am I giving up the ability to do over/under split shots?) -Olympus 60mm macro lens -Nauticam N85 port 65 with 0-60F focus gear for the 60mm lens Accessories -2 Sea and Sea YS-D2 strobes -diffusers for YS-D2s -Fiber Optic cables or sync cords -Focus Light (is a high powered video light too strong for a focus light?) -Nauticam Flexitray II with left and right handles. -Arms -Clamps -Floatation for arms and housing -arm/clamp adapters for strobes -Carrying handle -67mm adapter for CMC-1 and WWL-1? (Are the bayonet adapters useful?) Not sure: Covers for the strobes and ports so they don't get scratched? Bag to carry underwater for CMC-1, WWL-1, port covers and other miscellaneous items? How do you carry all your stuff? Lanyards (to connect camera to some part of the body or BC)? ---- I plan to purchase either used (on wetpixel classifieds or eBay) or from my local dealer (Optical Ocean Sales in Seattle) in spite of the extra 10% state sales tax. What else do I need? Please tell me absolutely everything I need. I don't want to get to Asia and not have something or discover that I bought gear that won't work well. The strobe connectors are a little mysterious to me. Is there a housing/strobe combination which allows TTL with the Olympus E-M1 Mark II (camera does not have an internal flash)? If I stick with the Nauticam housing and YS-D2 strobes what are the best strobe connectors -- fiber optic cables or sync cords? The accessories are still unknown and complicated to me. What is a good, high-quality arm/clamp setup for the Nauticam housing and YS-D2 strobes? Do I need floatation arms and if so, what size do you recommend for the setup above? Knowing nothing, I am thinking of a combination of Nauticam carbon fiber float arms and extra Stix floats, although I have no idea what sizes to get, Do I need a small backup camera if I am travelling on a remote liveaboard in Asia? I am thinking Sony RX100 III and the Fantasea housing. I am finding underwater photography is very complicated and expensive. The only reason I have gotten this far is from reading Alex Mustard's excellent book "Master Classroom," which has inspired me to take up this hobby. It is the best instructional book of any kind that I have ever read. In general, I want a good starter system with high-quality components. I would appreciate comments and advice from Wetpixel members. Thanks! I am just getting started and have never done UW photography before..
  9. I am leaving for a two to three week UW photography trip to Asia on May 4th, but am just getting started and have never done UW photography before.. I already had the Olympus E-M1 Mark II camera, plus computer equipment and Adobe CC with Lightroom and Photoshop. I literally bought my first UW photography gear from ebay today: Nauticam Compact Macro Convertor (CMC-1) $212.50 Nauticam Wet Wide Lens (WWL-1) $531.00 Nauticam Port 29 w/ Lumix PZ 14-42mm Lens & Focus Gear $338.33 The plan is to purchase: Nauticam housing for E-M1 Mark II with vacuum valve protection Panasonic 8mm f3.5 ( seems like a cost effective wide angle for a starter system -- compared to the 8mm PRO,) Nauticam 4.33 inch port for Panasonic 8mm with PF-8 focus gear (With such a small port, am I giving up the ability to do over/under split shots?) Olympus 60mm Nauticam N85 port 65 with 0-60F focus gear Accessories 2 Sea and Sea YS-D2 strobes diffusers for YS-D2s Fiber Optic cables or sync cords Nauticam Flexitray II with left and right handles. Focus Light Arms Clamps Floatation Carrying handle 67mm adapter for CMC-1 and WWL-1? Not sure: Covers for the strobes and ports so they don't get scratched? Bag to carry underwater for CMC-1, WWL-1, port covers and other miscellaneous items? How do you carry all your stuff? Lanyards (to connect camera to some part of the body or BC)? ---- I plan to purchase either used or from my local dealer (Optical Ocean Sales in Seattle) in spite of the extra 10% state sales tax. The strobe connectors are a little mysterious to me. Is there a housing/strobe combination which allows TTL with the Olympus E-M1 Mark II (camera does not have an internal flash)? If I stick with the Nauticam housing and YS-D2 strobes what are the best strobe connectors -- fiber optic cables or sync cords? The accessories are still unknown and complicated to me. What is a good, high-quality arm, clamp setup for the Nauticam housing and YS-D2 strobes? Do I need floatation arms and if so, what size do you recommend for the setup above? Knowing nothing, I am thinking of a combination of Nauticam carbon fiber float arms and extra Stix floats, although I have no idea what sizes to get, What else do I need? Please tell me everything I need -- I don't want to get to Asia and not have something or discover that I bought gear that won't work well. Do I need a small backup camera if I am travelling on a remote liveaboard in Asia -- I a;ready have a small, cheap Olympus SH-3 point-and-shoot and there is a Recsea housing for it, albeit on the expensive side. I am surprised there are as many UW photographers as there are because it is all very complicated and expensive. The only reason I have gotten this far is from reading Alex Mustard's excellent book "Masterclassroom," which is what inspired me to take up this hobby. It is the best instructional book of any kind that I have ever read. In general, I want a good starter system with high-quality components. Thanks! [Note: Sorry about hijacking this thread, but this is my first post here and the system won't let me start my own topic.] .
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