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DanielD

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DanielD last won the day on August 28 2018

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About DanielD

  • Rank
    Lionfish
  • Birthday 07/21/1983

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://www.time-shift.de
  • Skype
    thecrasher8472

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany
  • Interests
    Diving, Photography, Rock Climbing, Cocktail Mixing

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Germany
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D750
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-D750
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2x Sea&Sea YS-D2
  • Accessories
    INON Carbon telescopic arms

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  1. I'm interested in the Nauticam Extension ring 20 with lock (NA-21120). Due to high taxes for stuff coming from the outside I'll be buying inside the EU only (UK might be ok depending on if there is taxation or not ).
  2. So just for everyone who might have the same problem at some point: In the end I managed to convince the reseller that sold the strobes to contact Sea&Sea and have my strobes replaced. He wanted quite a steep fee for it, but alas at least now I have two new strobes that are working. The rep from Sea&Sea mentioned btw. that they have seen this problem before and it is known to them. So if you experience the same issues, don't waste time testing and contact Sea&Sea for a replacement.
  3. Hey there.. do you (or anyone else for that matter) know if the Sea&Sea focus gears also work in a Nauticam housing?
  4. Yes. There seems to be no difference on any of the power settings in manual mode. I only tried it in TTL mode (as that was the part most interesting to me) with my own cables (because it was suggested multiple times that the cables are the problem) and only above water (flashing into the camera). Then result was a white picture (which I never had before in TTL mode) and I did not see the flash through the lense (which always happened before in TTL mode). I agree. I think those strobes are toast. Unfortunately they where bought 2nd hand. My guess is I've been had. Technically I have the receipt and there should even be a warranty on them. Unfortunately the retailer was less then helpful the last time I contacted them. In fact they tried to get more money off me instead of helping. I'll try again with this new information, but I'm less then optimistic. I'll also try to contact Sea&Sea again. They did answer, but they answer was basically: Sorry we have no idea.
  5. Sorry for the long silence, but due to the evil C I was unable to go diving for quite a while. Ever dive base in Germany was closed and I didn't have any gas in my cylinders . This weekend I finally got the chance to a.) test my strobes in manual mode and b.) got lucky and another person with the same strobe did visit the lake, so I was able to test fire my setup with another strobe. The results speak volumes: a.) In manual mode (ignoring preflash) the strobes do trigger a the correct time, but every picture is massively overexposed. Even when I close the aperture as far as possible, set the exposure to the minimum possible time and set both strobes the the minimum settings, the pictures are massively overexposed. b.) Testing the same model strobe with the same setup (cable and camera) worked without any problems. Didn't even have to make any special settings. It just worked. That makes it pretty clear to my that a.) my strobes are the problem and b.) they are either broken or have a firmware version that is incompatible with my camera (which is odd, because the old version worked). The strobe I tested with was an even never version. All very frustrating. I'll contact the shop again, but I have little hope. They weren't to helpful the first time I asked for help.
  6. Hey Michael. So funny to meet under this circumstances in this forum. I actually studied in Trier and had my first diving experience near Trier in a lake at freezing temperatures (close to Halloween ). If I hadn't moved to Hamburg after my studies, we probably would know each other already . Regarding the equipment: The Dome port is the Nauticam #18802 for the N120 Port System correct? How much would you ask for shipping inside Germany. And would you like payment via Paypal (and if yes, who pays the fees)? Last but not least: If you're ever up here in Hamburg (e.g. to dive in Hemmoor) do give me a nudge. I'm there almost every weekend (well not at the moment sadly as it's closed ) and it would be awesome to learn from a pro. In return I can show you all the good spots .
  7. Acoording to the shop owner that is sending me the test cable, S&S change the port geometry on the new strobe and also released new cables stating that the old cables will not work properly with the new strobe . Apparently the new cables have a thicker core and exit cone and the sensors on the strobe are build accordingly. He also said that they did have a few customers trying TTL with old S&S and other cables and failed to do so, but where successful with new S&S cables . I do not have my old strobe anymore, I can not compare them and verify those claims. However, since he's sending my a cable to test, I do not loose anything by testing (apart from time, which I do have in abundance at the moment ). Should they also not work, I can sell the strobes pretty easy, as I got them for a good price and every time a YS-D2J is sold on eBay, people are jumping at it. Unfortunately, I broke of one of the fibre port covers on my last dive . The thing is rather useless, but it might drop the price a few Euros.
  8. So Sea&Sea Europe replied now actually (at least that). Generally they are saying since it worked with the old YS-D2 it should also work with the new YS-D2J and that I should turn to my supplier to figure out what is wrong . This is of course not very helpful, considering that the original supplier wants a shitload of money to even look at the setup. And I would certainly not send my camera to them, so the argument is mute. My currently last hope to get this working is another supplier that I was in contact with trough a german forum. He offered me to send me an original S&S cable for testing. As soon as I got that, I'll give an update here. At least then I'll know for sure whether it is the cable or not.
  9. That is more or less my reasoning. Since I love to photograph wildlife (outside and inside the water) a lot of my picture are made in time critical situations. I'd say that about 70% of my shoots would (at least in the beginning) be ruined if I had to fumble around on both strobes first. Thats how I currently do it actually. Aperature priority and AutoISO (but limited to a point where I don't get to much noise in dark spots). The only case where I always go fully manually are night dives. The camera just can't handle it. Sometimes in very dark spots or when I'm pretty deep in bad visibility, I also switch everything to manual. A shop owner on a german website was kind enough to offer to send me an original S&S cable for testing. If that works, I'll make a decision whether it's worth the money. And if it doesn't I'll either stay manual or sell the strobes. I'm quite a bit annoyed to have spend so much money on strobes that are supposed to work with TTL and now should use them in manual mode. Could've bought much cheaper ones for that.
  10. Well it explicitly says on their website not to use the .com addresses from Europe.. but yea.. I'll have to try that. The fact that they have good products makes it even more sad that they have such a crappy support. Because that kind of makes all the hard work the people put into development worth less if at some point they get a bad reputation in the community. It definitely saving money on the wrong end.
  11. A company that has no working customer service (especially with such fragile hardware) soon does not need it anyway, because they'll have no customers anymore. Especially in such a small community as UW photography that is a damned stupid approach on saving money.
  12. Yea one can clearly see the shadows of both strobes. Unfortunately there is still no reply from Sea&Sea. Maybe there europe office is closed down at the moment. I'll just have to wait and see then. My usual diving spot / base is currently closed anyway, so there is no testing in water and no diving until further notice for me .
  13. Guess at one point I have to find another person with a YS-D2 to see whether any other strobe of that model works on my camera. It's all still very fuzzy .
  14. This is bascially what I did. When I bought the camera I had already the idea of underwater photography. But I still waited a few years to get familliar with my camera and the lenses before buying the housing. ATM I only have a macro lens. Altough wide agle would be awesome I do dread the heafty prices of dome ports at the moment. Its a thing for the future though. I do a lot of post processing already. Only do my pictures in RAW format and do the white balance and contrast / color corrections at home. However I am strictly against using anything that would amount to editing my photos. In my humble opinion that would destroy the artistic part of photography. Since I only have Linux machines at home I do not use Photoshop, but RawTherapee. I've read a lot of online readings and a few books regarding photography and especially uw photography so far. But reading is one thing. Applying something totally different. One thing to keep in mind is that I life in germany, so (almost) all my dives are in very cold water using dry gloves. Fumbling around on the strobe is quite tiresome for me at the moment. There is no way to do it blind and just by touch, so I always have to turn the strobe towards me. With 2 strobes I have to turn it twice.. by the time I'm done the fish is gone or the nice looking scene with my buddy floating before me is not the same anymore . Most of my photography is rather intuitive at the moment. I dont arrange my pictures.. I just take what I seen.
  15. Hey helloI'mFo, Where do you live? Outside or inside the EU? I'd be interested in the the 230mm port, but if I have to pay taxes on it, I might as well buy it new.
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