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Everything posted by DanielD

  1. I'm interested in the Nauticam Extension ring 20 with lock (NA-21120). Due to high taxes for stuff coming from the outside I'll be buying inside the EU only (UK might be ok depending on if there is taxation or not ).
  2. So just for everyone who might have the same problem at some point: In the end I managed to convince the reseller that sold the strobes to contact Sea&Sea and have my strobes replaced. He wanted quite a steep fee for it, but alas at least now I have two new strobes that are working. The rep from Sea&Sea mentioned btw. that they have seen this problem before and it is known to them. So if you experience the same issues, don't waste time testing and contact Sea&Sea for a replacement.
  3. Hey there.. do you (or anyone else for that matter) know if the Sea&Sea focus gears also work in a Nauticam housing?
  4. Yes. There seems to be no difference on any of the power settings in manual mode. I only tried it in TTL mode (as that was the part most interesting to me) with my own cables (because it was suggested multiple times that the cables are the problem) and only above water (flashing into the camera). Then result was a white picture (which I never had before in TTL mode) and I did not see the flash through the lense (which always happened before in TTL mode). I agree. I think those strobes are toast. Unfortunately they where bought 2nd hand. My guess is I've been had. Technically I have the receipt and there should even be a warranty on them. Unfortunately the retailer was less then helpful the last time I contacted them. In fact they tried to get more money off me instead of helping. I'll try again with this new information, but I'm less then optimistic. I'll also try to contact Sea&Sea again. They did answer, but they answer was basically: Sorry we have no idea.
  5. Sorry for the long silence, but due to the evil C I was unable to go diving for quite a while. Ever dive base in Germany was closed and I didn't have any gas in my cylinders . This weekend I finally got the chance to a.) test my strobes in manual mode and b.) got lucky and another person with the same strobe did visit the lake, so I was able to test fire my setup with another strobe. The results speak volumes: a.) In manual mode (ignoring preflash) the strobes do trigger a the correct time, but every picture is massively overexposed. Even when I close the aperture as far as possible, set the exposure to the minimum possible time and set both strobes the the minimum settings, the pictures are massively overexposed. b.) Testing the same model strobe with the same setup (cable and camera) worked without any problems. Didn't even have to make any special settings. It just worked. That makes it pretty clear to my that a.) my strobes are the problem and b.) they are either broken or have a firmware version that is incompatible with my camera (which is odd, because the old version worked). The strobe I tested with was an even never version. All very frustrating. I'll contact the shop again, but I have little hope. They weren't to helpful the first time I asked for help.
  6. Hey Michael. So funny to meet under this circumstances in this forum. I actually studied in Trier and had my first diving experience near Trier in a lake at freezing temperatures (close to Halloween ). If I hadn't moved to Hamburg after my studies, we probably would know each other already . Regarding the equipment: The Dome port is the Nauticam #18802 for the N120 Port System correct? How much would you ask for shipping inside Germany. And would you like payment via Paypal (and if yes, who pays the fees)? Last but not least: If you're ever up here in Hamburg (e.g. to dive in Hemmoor) do give me a nudge. I'm there almost every weekend (well not at the moment sadly as it's closed ) and it would be awesome to learn from a pro. In return I can show you all the good spots .
  7. Acoording to the shop owner that is sending me the test cable, S&S change the port geometry on the new strobe and also released new cables stating that the old cables will not work properly with the new strobe . Apparently the new cables have a thicker core and exit cone and the sensors on the strobe are build accordingly. He also said that they did have a few customers trying TTL with old S&S and other cables and failed to do so, but where successful with new S&S cables . I do not have my old strobe anymore, I can not compare them and verify those claims. However, since he's sending my a cable to test, I do not loose anything by testing (apart from time, which I do have in abundance at the moment ). Should they also not work, I can sell the strobes pretty easy, as I got them for a good price and every time a YS-D2J is sold on eBay, people are jumping at it. Unfortunately, I broke of one of the fibre port covers on my last dive . The thing is rather useless, but it might drop the price a few Euros.
  8. So Sea&Sea Europe replied now actually (at least that). Generally they are saying since it worked with the old YS-D2 it should also work with the new YS-D2J and that I should turn to my supplier to figure out what is wrong . This is of course not very helpful, considering that the original supplier wants a shitload of money to even look at the setup. And I would certainly not send my camera to them, so the argument is mute. My currently last hope to get this working is another supplier that I was in contact with trough a german forum. He offered me to send me an original S&S cable for testing. As soon as I got that, I'll give an update here. At least then I'll know for sure whether it is the cable or not.
  9. That is more or less my reasoning. Since I love to photograph wildlife (outside and inside the water) a lot of my picture are made in time critical situations. I'd say that about 70% of my shoots would (at least in the beginning) be ruined if I had to fumble around on both strobes first. Thats how I currently do it actually. Aperature priority and AutoISO (but limited to a point where I don't get to much noise in dark spots). The only case where I always go fully manually are night dives. The camera just can't handle it. Sometimes in very dark spots or when I'm pretty deep in bad visibility, I also switch everything to manual. A shop owner on a german website was kind enough to offer to send me an original S&S cable for testing. If that works, I'll make a decision whether it's worth the money. And if it doesn't I'll either stay manual or sell the strobes. I'm quite a bit annoyed to have spend so much money on strobes that are supposed to work with TTL and now should use them in manual mode. Could've bought much cheaper ones for that.
  10. Well it explicitly says on their website not to use the .com addresses from Europe.. but yea.. I'll have to try that. The fact that they have good products makes it even more sad that they have such a crappy support. Because that kind of makes all the hard work the people put into development worth less if at some point they get a bad reputation in the community. It definitely saving money on the wrong end.
  11. A company that has no working customer service (especially with such fragile hardware) soon does not need it anyway, because they'll have no customers anymore. Especially in such a small community as UW photography that is a damned stupid approach on saving money.
  12. Yea one can clearly see the shadows of both strobes. Unfortunately there is still no reply from Sea&Sea. Maybe there europe office is closed down at the moment. I'll just have to wait and see then. My usual diving spot / base is currently closed anyway, so there is no testing in water and no diving until further notice for me .
  13. Guess at one point I have to find another person with a YS-D2 to see whether any other strobe of that model works on my camera. It's all still very fuzzy .
  14. This is bascially what I did. When I bought the camera I had already the idea of underwater photography. But I still waited a few years to get familliar with my camera and the lenses before buying the housing. ATM I only have a macro lens. Altough wide agle would be awesome I do dread the heafty prices of dome ports at the moment. Its a thing for the future though. I do a lot of post processing already. Only do my pictures in RAW format and do the white balance and contrast / color corrections at home. However I am strictly against using anything that would amount to editing my photos. In my humble opinion that would destroy the artistic part of photography. Since I only have Linux machines at home I do not use Photoshop, but RawTherapee. I've read a lot of online readings and a few books regarding photography and especially uw photography so far. But reading is one thing. Applying something totally different. One thing to keep in mind is that I life in germany, so (almost) all my dives are in very cold water using dry gloves. Fumbling around on the strobe is quite tiresome for me at the moment. There is no way to do it blind and just by touch, so I always have to turn the strobe towards me. With 2 strobes I have to turn it twice.. by the time I'm done the fish is gone or the nice looking scene with my buddy floating before me is not the same anymore . Most of my photography is rather intuitive at the moment. I dont arrange my pictures.. I just take what I seen.
  15. Hey helloI'mFo, Where do you live? Outside or inside the EU? I'd be interested in the the 230mm port, but if I have to pay taxes on it, I might as well buy it new.
  16. I do realize that shooting completely manual is eventually the goal. That was my plan anyway. But one of the reasons why I bought TTL capable strobes was the fact that I didn't want to learn everything at once in the beginning and still get decent pictures. For that reason I was actually shooting without any strobe in the beginning, to get myself the chance of knowing how to handle the camera before having to bother with another level of complexity. So far the results of that has been very mixed.. but every now and than I get something decent out of a dive. The thing is, I find the workload already pretty high when doing underwaterphotography at the moment. And I find myself every now and then not taking the camera, because the pictures from the last dive simply did turn out to be not worth the hassle. I'm afraid if the workload increases even more, the frustration level will rise accordingly. Anyway it seems like there is little alternative.
  17. Well considering that I'm not that good a photographer yet the thought of that is not very pleasant. In fact I would most likely ruin most of the pictures. Not to mention that this would also mean that I have to "set them right" from the start, as a lot of my pictures are "one time chances" and not really setup. I suppose that I would be frustrated pretty quickly if most of my pictures are ruined afterwards just because I was to stupid to adjust the strobes correctly .
  18. I have to admit, I thought about it. However the thought of having to adjust the level of 2 strobes all the time gives me headaches. Most of my current dives have a profile that takes me from good lighting conditions to bad lighting conditions and then back to good ones. I'm not that familiar with flash photography yet, but I guess I'd have to adjust my strobes all the time to get good results no? That would be rather annoying.
  19. So a reseller on a german website gave me the tip (and the sequence) to reset the strobes. Although resetting was successful, it did not change anything. He also said that he was almost certain it would be the cables, as the new Sea&Sea cables are a bit thicker and the YS-D2J Sensor was developed specifically to take advantage of that . If this is true it might be that they work better this way with the Sea&Sea cable.. but it also apparently means they stop working with any other cables . Out of a hunch I also did some rapid fire shooting to see what happens.. and you know what? Out of 20 pictures taken, 2 turned out to be white. That might indeed point to unstable TTL results caused by cabling. I'm not sure yet whether to just sell my strobes and get some that aren't this fragile when it comes to TTL. Or to really throw even more money at S&S, buy original cables and sell my cables too. Very annoying situation.
  20. As state in the linked Thread, I did have one YS-D2 (not J) before that worked without any problems. The fact that I sold it after just testing whether the new ones fired (not synced though) is probably one of the most stupid thing I ever did . Damn I whish I had that one back. Unfortunately I do not have access to any other strobes. Currently looking into that. I'll keep you up to date on any new information.
  21. Hi guys & girls, I have a lot of trouble with my combination of 2x Sea&Sea YS-D2J TTL with my Nikon D750. I am unable to get the S&S strobes to correctly sync. They always fire on the pre-flash of the camera . I also tested with another camera (Canon) and without cable (flash hold directly to internal flash). There is already a discussion going on here about the topic. @ChrissRoss suggested I might as here as well. It would be especially interesting to know if anyone is using this combination (Sea&Sea YS-D2J + Nikon D750) successfully in TTL mode. In manual mode both strobes work fine. Any help is greatly appreciated, as I'm running out of ideas and Sea&Sea is not responding to my pleas for help .
  22. I agree. Unfortunately Sea&Sea is not answering me on any of the channels that I've been writing to. I'll be trying the US support. I know I'm not supposed to, but its their fault if they don't react on other channels. Was thinking about that too. A TTL Trigger might be able to act as a filter / converter if it is programmed accordingly. It would be REALLY interesting to know whether anyone else is using this combo of camera and strobe. After all, neither the strobe nor the camera are of a rare model really. Problems like that should have been noticed in testing or someone else should have this trouble. I'll ask on the Strobes and Lighting board as you suggested.
  23. As I said: Sea&Sea is not even responding to my E-Mail . ATM They don't even know what my setup is except that I use a YS-D2 and a Nikon D750. There isn't even an offical contact for europe. Only for US buyers and the europe website is completely in dutch . So I did write to some dutch contact address. So far nothing. Before I even consider buying such a pricy cable, I need some reaction from them. I'm certainly not giving this company any more money just to make them talk to me. If their customer support is so crappy, then I'm better of buying from another company anyways. There are plenty of strobes in the sea . Since @ChrisH80 has the old version and is living close to my parents I guess before I toss it, I'll get in touch with him and test the old setup with my camera.
  24. Considering that the strobe also doesn't work when I put the port directly to the flash, this doesn't make any sense whatsoever. The cable that has gain instead of loss has yet to be invented. And I'm certainly not going to buy a 90€ cable just to prove what I already know. So far Sea&Sea has yet to respond to my mail. If they don't I'm just going to sell the strobes again and buy another model. It's sad relly because I was quite happy with the old version.
  25. I have 3 cables, but they are all INON multicore cables. I also tried it without cable (holding the strobe against the internal flash of the camera). All those tests produced the same result.
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