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RuudStelten

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About RuudStelten

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    Damselfish

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    Netherlands Antilles

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  1. No problem, let me know if you have any more questions!
  2. Hi, it depends on what you use them for. A strobe emits a short but very powerful burst of light, usually much stronger than a video light. That said, video lights can certainly be used for photography as well. I have done a lot of macro photography with these lights, and even wide angle works. For wide angle it is hard to use these lights when the conditions are bright as video lights can't easily compete with the ambient light from the sun. But if you look at the attached picture, you can see it is certainly possible and can deliver great results! I took this photo with two SOLA 3800 lights at full intensity, using a fisheye lens on my EM1II. It works very well inside the cenote here because there is no ambient light to compete with, and because the lights have a wide beam angle of 110 degrees.
  3. Hi, I'm interested in the video lights. Just wondering what condition they are in? How many dives have they been used? My email for the pics is ruudstelten@gmail.com Thanks!
  4. Thanks Bill! I was just a bit confused and wanted to double check, because I read your post from 2014 explaining that Nauticam grease is compatible with all types of o-rings, but some nitrile o-rings can swell with fluorosilicone grease (don't know if the INON o-rings are made of nitrile). I wasn't sure if the Nauticam grease, which you mention is perfluoro, is the same as fluorosilicone...
  5. Hi all, after a long wait, I finally got my new INON Z-330 strobes in today. I'd like to take them on a dive tomorrow, but INON didn't include any o-ring lubricant with their strobes. Is it possible to use Nauticam lubricant on the yellow INON o-rings? Thanks!
  6. I am selling the following gear as a set: Olympus EM1 mark II body Olympus 12-100mm F4 PRO Nauticam housing for EM1 mark II Nauticam M14 vacuum valve I'm the first owner, always took very good care of the equipment, never flooded, rinsed extensively after every dive. It is in very good condition. The 12-100 is a great topside lens, one of only two Olympus lenses that has IS in the lens which works together with the stabilization in the body. The body has 21,000 shutter actuations. You get a spare O-ring for the housing as well. Retail price for the entire set is $5,120, selling for $4,000. Contact me at ruudstelten@gmail.com
  7. Hi all, as a PADI instructor I sometimes visit the organization's website to stay up to date (www.padi.com). I am also an avid underwater photographer and am appalled by some of the pictures on their homepage. There are many bad ones on there, but by far the worst is the turtle pic towards the bottom. There are so many things wrong with this picture, you can write a book about it: overexposed, colors are not correct, composition is shit, very distracting background - literally the worst turtle pic I have ever seen. The kelp pic is not much better: blown highlights at the top, way too dark at the bottom, and one diver model that seems to have absolutely no idea what he's doing (and this is for the 'exploration' section!). You would expect that such a large and influential organization has top notch pictures on its website, which makes me wonder: is it just me, or are these pictures really as bad as I think they are? I am by no means a photography expert but I do think I can distinguish between good and not so good pics. I'd love to hear your opinions!
  8. Hi all, I am fairly new to UW photography, but I've been practicing a lot lately with a new setup I bought. I was hoping you could give me some advice regarding the o-ring in the dome port. Some people I've talked to say they take the dome off after every dive to clean and lubricate the o-ring, while others say that is not really necessary if you do not change the dome out for another port (so as long as it stays on the housing, there's no need to clean and lubricate the o-ring). Which method is best? I don't mind taking it out after every dive, but if it's not really necessary I prefer to leave it in. Don't know if this is relevant information at all, but I use a Nauticam housing for Olympus EM-1 mkII with a ZEN 170mm dome port. Thanks for any advice you can provide!
  9. Hi Tim, yes they go out for 2-tank trips 6, sometimes 7 days a week (weather permitting). One of the owners recently sold his share, the remaining two continue to operate it.
  10. Some of the best sites for WA can be found on the east coast, there's a daily two-tank trip with East Coast Divers. Very good chance of seeing eagle rays, nurse sharks, a large school of tarpon in the White Hole, and dozens of large green turtles guaranteed. The reef over there is very healthy as well. The boat trip is the way to go, I don't recommend a shore entry there on a regular day with 20 knot winds, especially with camera gear...
  11. Thanks for the info! Good to see some pics as well. I can't believe the distortion at f2.8... Does anyone know if a bigger dome such as the Zen 170mm would have less distortion with this lens? I guess a different fisheye lens like the tokina 10-17 would definitely be better, although I read a review that mentioned it was terrible at focusing with the metabones converter (but this was in a small fisheye dome)... Perhaps the Rokinon 8mm? That one is available for the e-mount. Although I have no idea which dome port would work with this. Any suggestions? Thanks again! I'm also a noob so let's see if some more experienced people can share their insights too...
  12. Hi all, I am about to buy the Sony a6300 with nauticam housing and am planning to mainly shoot fisheye and wide angle. I'd like to get the sony e16mm with fisheye conversion lens combo. The Nauticam website recommends the 4.33" acrylic fisheye dome port with this setup. However, I am also planning on shooting lots of over-under shots, and I've read that a small dome is not great for this. Would the Nauticam 7" or 8.5" acrylic dome ports also work well with this lens setup? Thanks for your help!
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