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hyp last won the day on July 18

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About hyp

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    Wolf Eel

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus EM5 (mk1)
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA EM5
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea&Sea YS-02

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  1. The Weefine WFL-01 is also designed for 24mm lenses. However, there are few reports of ones actually in use. Maybe you could order one and test it in the bathtub? If you stick to the Wetmate I think you will be fine with the S2000.
  2. Does anyone know of a dealer in Europe for the micromesh?
  3. Bought a 77mm Nauticam Flip adapter from Tursiops. Very smooth transaction and very quick shipping.
  4. This is my experience as well. I own two Ys-02 (same as Ys-01 without ttl) and my mother owned two S2000. When we were shooting side by side, the difference in power certainly felt significant for wideangle. While the YS-01 is barely adequate, the S2000 is just not powerful enough. My mother recently upgraded to YS-D2Js. I am planning to stick to my YS-02s.
  5. Image quality is the same. On land you lose the high resolution mode, but that’s not usable underwater. C-AF is better on the Olympus, but I am fine with S-AF underwater. I think both are very much equal with minor advantages depending on specific use.
  6. I think for lens options Olympus is the most flexible of all the listed options. It allows for a standard zoom with wet lenses setup, but also has dedicated macro options and a proper fisheye. The latter is something that Sony sorely lacks.
  7. Printing on aluminium is also very nice. Not sure what the options are in the US though.
  8. My Em5 (which I updated) still has 1/64 flash intensity. Are you sure you set your flash setting to manual? If it is in TTL mode it will show EV settings.
  9. I've always made my own designs. If they didn't work I knew who to blame. After I got the original Nauticam 12-40 gear I adapted their design, so that I could still use the original gear on different lenses. My verdict: If you have money, buy nauticam. If you're broke learn how to design gears yourself.
  10. Even if you get a design printed by someone like Shapeways or 3D-Hubs it will be massively cheaper than most other options. It helps if you know your way around a 3D modelling software.
  11. I've made gears for myself and my parents' Subal housing before. It's not that difficult and after the first one, every one has worked on first try. For N85 Nauticam it's a bit harder because the small port opening. With my used Nauticam housing and port came a Gear for the 12-40 lens that I've just adapted by using a different inner plastic piece. Personally I find the Nauticam gears way overpriced (except the 12-50 gear which is a marvel of engineering). That said, I sometimes wish for a bit more engineering background. It's kind of hard to know how much friction/tolerances one needs for a good fit.
  12. One of my YS-02 has the same problem. It's currently in for repair with a friend's friend who has specialised in repairing S&S strobes. I can report back once I get it back.
  13. I own the 3000 and have used the 2300 before. If you only want to use it as a focus /night dive light I would actually recommend to get the 2300. Because of the functionality as a strobe the lamp is more complex and switching between white and red in strobe mode is a bit of a hassle. I've tried using the lamp as a strobe for macro using the Weefine Snoot Condenser lens, but it is pretty week. I think the display and extra functionalities of the SF3000 or SF4000 only make sense if you want to use them as a hybrid video/foto light for macro, but then I think you really need the 6000 as the others are too weak. For wide angle led lights cannot replace strobes, yet. Maybe in 10 years.
  14. I have found this test by backscatter really informative. It shows that the Z240 and the YS-01 are actually very close in performance. Nearly identical when used with diffusers. I think you will be happy with either. If you want a step up for better wide angle performance, you probably need to go to either Retra, YS-D2J or Z330.
  15. But it will give it to me in a much smaller size. That is my main annoyance with the 8-18. I would then add true fisheye later, as a 4.33" dome is much easier to handle while travelling. In the end that would give me a smaller rig with more shooting options. So long as the Image quality that the UWL-100 puts out is acceptable.
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