Jump to content

hyp

Member
  • Content Count

    116
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

hyp last won the day on July 18

hyp had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

11 Good

1 Follower

About hyp

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Germany
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Panasonic LX7
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA LX7

Recent Profile Visitors

9732 profile views
  1. To be clear. Adding the Wetlens would be in addition to a fisheye lens. I would only use it for those dives, where it is likely the fisheye will be too wide and 12mm behind a flat port will be too narrow. I will see how the quality is. 10€ for a step-down ring is cheap enough that there it should be alright to just try. I will also keep the 7" dome, but I don't want to carry it on every trip, as it is quite large.
  2. Thanks for the helpful replies. Getting a step down ring is probably the lowest cost way to test my setup. It gives me some time to figure out whether I need or want a flip adapter and stick to the 12-50mm as my main macro solution that also does wide angle, or if maybe I should invest in a 60mm macro. On the fisheye/wide angle side I think it's best to just get the native dome and fisheye. While the Canon 8-15 seems to be an amazing lens on mu43 it is a very expensive proposition.
  3. @Interceptor121 I am not planning to use the WWL-1. My parents have an Inon UWL-100 (as well as Saga +10) that is spare and that I could use. I am considering using that on a flip adapter to fill my "medium wide" wideangle need in addition to an 8mm fisheye in 4.33 inch port. I am just not sure if it actually works. Getting the flip adapter for macro might make sense anyway so it's not the worst investment even if the UWL-100 doesn't work well. @bill1946 I know that more powerful strobes would be better, but I've actually been surprisingly happy with my YS-02. When Backscatter tested a bunch of strobes recently, it showed that the YS-01 (which is identical + TTL) was punching significantly above it's weight class and my experience with the YS-02 reflects that as well. They are significantly stronger than the Inon S2000, which is certainly not enough for lighting wide angle pictures. Unless a financial miracle happens upgrading the strobes doesn't seem to make that much sense. I had a private workshop on Lanzarote with a pro UW-Photographer this summer and my main takeaway was that before adding more power, I need to learn how to use the power I already have better. Quite often he adjusted my strobe positioning and I then had to reduce power.
  4. Wouldn't I need a bayonet converter for both the wetlens and the port? My assumption was that such a converter would add extra distance between port and lens in the same way that a flip adapter would. Considering that I'm (for now) not planning to use a big lens like the WWL-1 I felt that a flip option would be superior. I was expecting that a little zooming in would be required (although zooming to a specific spot with the 12-50 is a bit of pain...), so that is not a problem. I probably wouldn't sell the 7" dome so in case of a trip to the Bahamas or other shark heavy destinations, I would still use the 8-18mm. I'm happy with the quality, just not the size of the rig.
  5. This is where my maths lead me, too. It seems to be the optimal solution, except for price. This is actually something that I have no experience, yet. The largest critters I've photographed underwater were angle sharks (which let you get close enough to use a fisheye) and turtles (sometimes let you get close enough). Do you think I would be ok with the 12-50mm for those subjects? I've searched the forums about this before, but there seems to be very little information on combining wetlenses with the 12-50. I may have to test it myself.
  6. It has been roughly over a year since I bought my first underwater rig and I am looking to maybe finetune some things that I am not so happy with. However, I'm not entirely sure which way to go, as affordability is a big issue. I currently use an Em5mkI in Nauticam housing together with a Panasonic-Leica 8-18mm in the 7" acrylic port and the 12-50mm with its special port and gear. I use two YS-02 (not D2!) for lighting. On occasion I can also borrow my mothers Panasonic-Leica 45mm Macro which fits in the same port. All of this except for the 8-18 (which I already owned for land use) was bought used. New this kit would be way out of my financial reach. However, there are a few things that I would like to improve. The first thing is that I would like to get a fisheye lens, as I have found that sometimes I can't get close enough to large corals to light them. My mother (who has a Panasonic GX80 in Subal housing) just bought the Olympus 8mm lens and I tried it out for a single dive on Lanzarote and definitely want some of that fisheye goodness. I am also very interested in making my rig more compact. The 7" dome is a big hassle on airplanes and using something like the 4.33" dome would make travelling a lot easier. The question is whether I could replace the rectilinear wide angle all together (or at least only bring it on very specific trips). I know of the possible use of the Canon 8-15mm giving a roughly 170° fisheye at the wide end and something in the middle of the range of the PL8-18 at the long end. But while the lens itself can be had used for reasonable discounts housing it seems quite a bit more expensive. The N85-120 adapters as well as extension rings add up to a substantial amount of money and they rarely come available used. Buying and housing the 8-15mm would probably cost me at least 1500€ more likely 2000, depending on what parts I can get used. Buying and housing the Panasonic or Olympus fisheye (both very good and compact optics) would certainly cost less than half of that. Another option would be to add a wide wetlens to my 12-50mm (preferably via Flip Adapter). My parents own the INON UWL-100 that I could have as they don't use it anymore. They also own a Saga +10. If this works the 12-50 could function as a (fairly) rectilinear wide lens, while I carry only the small dome for a fisheye lens. In addition I could expand the (already quite good) macro capabilities of the 12-50mm. I'm just wondering if I will be annoyed on dives where I only have the Fisheye. On the other hand, I have found that contrary to what I believed at first the fisheye actually seemed to be a bit more versatile because it's "wide angle macro" capabilities. So... After all this rambling. Should I wait and see if I can maybe one day afford the 8-15mm setup giving me a fisheye that also zooms in, or should I get one of the native fixed fisheyes and patch the rectilinear wide angle hole with a wetlens on the 12-50.
  7. The HSL sliders only apply to what is already there. If you push the white balance hard enough that blues become purple then the blue will be affected by the purple slider. You need to have the colours already present to work on them. I have found that the best way to use HSL is to get whatever part should be lit colourful and then adjust the often way to teal blue back to a nice blue. I often push the teal slider all the way to blue, because I feel that the transition from lit parts of the image to the blue often looks unnatural, especially on sandy bottoms. Also if you have problems with a specific colour sometimes it's worth considering to just remove it. If it has no big areas in the image, the grey will be overpowered by the colours around it. I only sparingly use HSL to increase the saturation of reds. I have also found something that could be called "invisible strobe fall off". At the edges of your strobe lighting you can often recover a lot of colour. I assume that strobe power wasn't enough at those areas to overpower natural light, but there is still a fraction reflected to the camera, which the sensor sees. With careful use of masks/brushes you can often increase the area that looks lit by the strobe. Especially useful on wide angle images. Obviously it is better to get it right in camera, but we are not all professionals with thousands of dives of experience...
  8. If I paid 150€ for everything including customs and shipping I would be happy. I'm leaving on 7th October for my next diving trip, so that is likely not a solution. I've been thinking if I know anyone who will be travelling from the US to Europe until October. That would certainly be the best solution.
  9. I am a bit worried about customs if shipped from the US. Buying used is a lot less attractive, when you have to pay 20% on top of the sale price, and that's not accounting for some of the ridiculous fees that I've seen from postal services that can be a bit unpredictable.
  10. Hi all, I'm looking for a Flip Adapter that fits onto my 77mm Filter Thread. I am based in the EU and am looking for people sending from the EU. Thanks!
  11. Remember there is also the Panasonic-Leica 45mm f2.8 Macro (great lens, maybe a bit slow on the focussing, but has not been an issue to me). Value for money on that lens is an issue though. In addition to that there are also 30mm lenses by Olympus and Panasonic, which I've not used, but they may be a good solution as well.
  12. It's Nauticam. I've found the replacement part for less than 100€. The Acrylic Glue Idea is new to me. The scratch is deep enough that you can easily feel it with your hand. I may try to fix it in this way, but the replacement dome is so cheap that if I could do it on my own, that would be the easiest way. However the workhours for a repair by a dealer cost as much as the dome itself...I've contacted Nauticam about information, but they just recommend that I pay someone to do it.
  13. So I've managed to get a pretty major scratch into my 7" acrylic dome. It is most likely beyond polishing it out. I've found out that replacement domes are surprisingly inexpensive, but I've also found out that the dive shop wants nearly as much for doing the actual replacement. So the question is: can I do it myself and are there any resources out there (user manuals, instruction videos) that would help me undertake the repair. Has anyone done this?
  14. Of course, if you already have wetlenses a significant part of the compact cost is already done. I got an exceptional deal, so I don't think it's fair to compare but I paid 1000€ for Housing, Camera, two ports (macro and dome) and one lens. I put about another 1000€ into strobes and arms. The other lens I had already for topside. This was bought on Ebay. Deals on Wetpixel are generally less favourable because both sellers and buyers know what stuff is worth. To buy on ebay requires a significant amount of patience. As I was very short on cash, but determined to get into UW photography I just waited for a long time for a deal like this to come up. These deals happen maybe once a year, so it's very much a thing of luck.
  15. Have a look at the used section. 500$-800$ can be very little for a good housing and compact. In fact the TG5 with Olympus housing is probably one of the few that sits in that price region. It is a good camera, but if you have a look at 1" sensor compacts (Sony RX100 (any model really), Panasonic LX10, Canon GX7mkII) you will find that while they may not be quite as good on the macro side as the TG5 they are significantly better for wide angle. If macro is your main interest though, you cannot go wrong with the TG5. When shooting with compacts I find that even for Wideangle the smaller and cheaper strobes are good enough. I'm sure more light is better, but I find that I can get away with my YS-02 (same as YS-01s without TTL). I would recommend shooting manual strobes from the start. TTL is a crutch, and one that is not very reliable. Your Accessories budget is probably already filled with your strobe arms. I doubt you can squeeze in an extra lens. I think you will be fine without a wetlens starting out though, so I wouldn't stress about that. My first attempts at UW-Photography were all with a bare Panasonic LX7 and I'm still happy with some of the images.
×
×
  • Create New...