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hyp last won the day on July 18

hyp had the most liked content!

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About hyp

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    Wolf Eel

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus EM5 (mk1)
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA EM5
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea&Sea YS-02

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  1. For micro four thirds we’re talking about 4mp, 1/2 stop of ISO performance and maybe 1 stop of DR if that. It’s certainly measurable but I don’t think it’s noticeable beyond pixel peeping. I certainly can’t tell the difference between my 20mp and my 16mp files.
  2. I went from window shopping to buying a used E-M5 mk1 with Ports and Housing for less than 1k. All mirrorless cameras currently out there including 1 or 2 generations past will give you great image quality for stills.
  3. Just get a micro four thirds and be done with it.
  4. I‘m pretty sure, that the retra combination will still be the most powerful setup. But if you already own a strobe the Backscatter solution is much cheaper. You can‘t upgrade your strobes + buy the retra LSD for 500$.The LSD on it‘s own is already a fair bit of money. Buying 2 new Retra Pros and the LSD would get me very close if not over 2000$. I wonder if the retras are really four times better... This is once again a question of best possible setup vs. Best setup that‘s still relatively affordable. I know some people on here seem to have unlimited funds, but there are a few of us that get by buying mostly used, 3d printing zoom gears to save cost and using gear that‘s maybe not the latest and greatest.
  5. I can recommend Weefine/Kraken lights. They are not super cheap, but very well built and high quality.
  6. The Flash Sync speed has nothing to do with TTL. If you go faster than the sync speed you would have a black bar in the picture. Some manufacturers are slightly conservative with the sync speed and in some circumstances you can manage to fool the system and go higher, but usually this only gives 1/3 stop (so 1/320s in your case). If you use flash and you don't use a compact 1/250s is what you will have to live with with most cameras. I think the old Panasonic GX8 allows for 1/320s.
  7. Yeah. Price is apparently 500€ for the whole bundle. I really hope someone will pick it up and review it soon.
  8. Maybe also take the new backscatter ministrobe+snoot into consideration. It looks like it‘s mostly designed for snooting, although real life reports are not really out there yet.
  9. I would take a look at the new Backscatter Ministrobe. It also has a paired snoot for your macro work. All the marketing material features a TG5/6 so it seems to have been pretty much designed with that camera in mind.
  10. So it looks like your main interest lies in available light wide angle pictures. I am not a big fan of the size and expense of full frame, but for your style that would probably be the best. But really what you need to figure out is how much money you want to spend and how large your rig can be. From that you can decide which sensor size you want (1"compact, mu43, aps-c, FF) and only then can people here help you with the specific choice of a model and manufacturer.
  11. For Video. Didn't know AF-C isn't supported.
  12. I have found Weefine/kraken to be pretty decent. Build quality as well as quality of light is pretty decent in my eyes. Most likely are Keldans are better, but double the price better? I doubt it. At least for the low/mid range lights. No idea about the top end.
  13. I see the difference. You're probably right, but when I do comparison edits, I really see no reason to use different images. It is quite possible that the corners were already better in one shot. Especially with a difference this dramatic. The difference in the original post is not nearly as clear.
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