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hyp last won the day on July 18 2019

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About hyp

  • Rank
    Sting Ray

Additional Info

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus EM5 (mk1)
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA EM5
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea&Sea YS-02

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  1. Keep the 4/3 for UW and only use FF for topside. Satisfy the GAS for less money.
  2. I don't think you will have to do that much customization. You really only need 2 tripple clamps and a ball arm of appropriate length. As you have a bit of play with the clamps it should be easy enough to find one that is the right length.
  3. I second what interceptor says in his post. I dive this exact setup (EM5mk1 with 8-18 in 7" acrylic and 8mm in 4,33" acrylic port). I much prefer the fisheye for reefshots, but there are situations where a normal wide angle is preferred. If you can afford glass domes I'm sure they are nicer and especially less buoyant but for financial reasons I prefer acrylic.
  4. In general, there are too few reviews of Weefine lenses out there. I hear some good things, but there is no solid information. If you could review some, that would be much appreciated. Weefine is quite a bit cheaper than Nauticam.
  5. Correct. Since apple allowed direct import into LR this has become the easiest way. You can also sync back to your computer at home, so if you want to work on a bigger screen after returning from a trip you can keep all your edits. The only downside to the adobe solution is their obnoxious business model. They know they have the industry standard and they abuse that fact to its limit.
  6. With an APS-C sensor you are really at the point where it might become difficult. I would certainly recommend you stay away from Inons S2000 strobe which is just too weak. For Wide-Angle I think the YS-01 might also be struggling. There is of course an aspect of superior strobe positioning requiring less power. I remember shooting at full power quite a lot and after doing a course with a Pro UW-Photographer I really started using the lower power settings more.
  7. This depends very much on your camera model. If you are using a compact you will most likely be able to settle on a smaller strobe and still be happy with the results. One thing to take note: Backscatter did a test of many 2019 strobes last year. Their results differed greatly from the numbers provided by the manufacturers. Generally Sea & Sea strobes performed better, but they have a bit of a bad history with reliability. I shoot micro four thirds and I am fairly happy with my Sea & Sea YS-02 (same as YS-01 but no TTL). If I was using FF and had to stop down more I would need stronger strobes though.
  8. The thing with Capture one Pro is that it is so expensive, that the LR subscription doesn't seem so bad. Yes, you will own the software and you can decide when to upgrade, but I upgraded from 4 to 5 to 6 in a relatively short timeframe and then stuck with them because I didn't want to go subscription. It is true though that worthwhile new features have been quite rare since LR CC came out. I think it's really only the dehaze and detail slider + LR mobile. There are however a few features that no other software currently has. And that is the built in HDR and Pano mode directly from RAW and into a new RAW Format. I use it all the time for my landscape images.
  9. I upgraded about half a year ago. I also don't like the subscription model, but I really wanted to use LR on my iPad. Editing and culling while I'm still on a trip (or on the plane back) means that instead of spending hours on the computer after the holidays, I can show my pictures to friends and family immediately. It's also much nicer when sharing on the internet. Before I used LR6 (which was enough for everything else and worked very well), but I had to use Affinity Photo on the go, which is a great photoshop replacement but not very quick for editing Rawfiles. Btw, the LR6 installer is still on Adobes Website, but it is incredibly well hidden.
  10. If you want to go high quality but strictly budget than the used market is your best bet. I did the same thing. However, for it to really be useful it might be better to not be decided on a specific brand and model. Older models often can be had significantly cheaper and I consider most cameras from about 2014 or so to be capable enough. Most advances since then have been in AF technology, not image quality. I myself shoot a 2012 Olympus EM5. I got a nice Aluminium Housing with Ports and Camera and one lens for less than 1000€. I recently saw a similar deal for the EM1mk1 here on the forums. Maybe it’s still there. If you want the latest tech things will be very expensive though.
  11. For what it's worth I'm happy with my Aquatica Clamps. They have a nicer grip than Nauticam/ULCS ones, but I have not had any ULCS/Nauticam to really compare, so who knows what I am missing. I have used bad clamps though, so I know that they are at least decent. I use no name (D&D) arms that a seller in Austria has made for him in China (I believe). I think good clamps are much more important than good arms. It is also important to have the same O-Rings on all arms. I bought a set of Nauticam O-Rings for the cheap arms.
  12. Easiest way would be to scrap dive+. Import straight to LR. Export only when needed. Dive+ is supposed to be a one shop stop solution. If it needs further editing, maybe just start in a more capable editor straight away.
  13. I am currently kitting out an old LX7 for video. I own a Saga +10 and a UWL-H100 wet lens and I am wondering how I am going to deal with the different requirements for red filters. I'm going on a trip to Bali (Manta Point) and Lembeh in February. For Macro I will use a single 3000lm Light but for Wide Angle I was planning to use red filters. The question is: Which one? I've seen a 10Bar Red filter that slide on top of the UWL-H100. The other option would be to use a gel filter sheet inside the housing. This would take away the option of removing the filter in case I go lower than 15m. On dives where I would shoot predominantly macro I am also wondering how I would deal with the macro converter (preferably on a flip adapter) and a red filter. Generally I want to use only equipment that I already own, apart from the Flip adapter (a double flip might still be an option) and the filters. I know having more (powerful) lights would be the best solution, but it is not in the cards financially.
  14. I think you will have to replace the dome glass. Even if it was easy to get to the inside of the dome, it would be tricky to buff anything out, as the inside curvature means you can't really take a sanding block to the surface. On top of that the kind of port you own only allows very limited access to the inside. Replacement acrylics domes are not that expensive. The problem is that they seem to not be user replaceable. Nauticam doesn't provide replacement manuals and apparently a special tool is needed. I have the 7" dome port and the replacement dome for that was in the region of 90€. The labour for the shops I asked ranged between 60€ and 160€, so if you go the replacement route it's worth asking for a quote beforehand.
  15. For micro four thirds we’re talking about 4mp, 1/2 stop of ISO performance and maybe 1 stop of DR if that. It’s certainly measurable but I don’t think it’s noticeable beyond pixel peeping. I certainly can’t tell the difference between my 20mp and my 16mp files.
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