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Everything posted by hyp

  1. Definitely get something last gen and used as your money will take you much further on the used market. Something like a Panasonic LX10 (which is still the current model, but not brand new on the market) or even a Panasonic LX100, a Sony RX100 series that is not the very latest or something similar. Instead of deciding on the camera and then buying new, decide on a budget and then see what comes up first. For the average amateur most relatively recent 1inch compacts will give good results in video. Do not underestimate the skill required to get enjoyable footage though, especially in terms of stabilisation and planning of shots. My wife takes short video clips with an old LX7 and while the image quality is actually pretty good for such an old camera, the lack of stability and vision of the end result makes it very hard to edit the clips into a 3-5minute movie.
  2. If you want to go back to using the 12-35 maybe get a glass dome? They are much better buoyancy wise.
  3. That's one reason I'm considering to upgrade, but right now, I'm waiting if Panasonic or Olympus actually release a decent camera.
  4. If you don’t own a small dome yet, why not just buy an Isotta Port? They should be compatible with the correct extension.
  5. Remember 60mm Macro on MFT is equiv to 120mm Macro on FF. At that point getting a focus lock can be an issue. I think technique should depend on the composition and subject you're aiming for. If you are looking at photographing in the super macro range than the described technique can be a good way to make sure that you get the correct focus. Personally, I used the 60mm in normal AF mode, but I also have to say that I prefer the Panasonic-Leica 45mm for it's wider FoV and seemingly snappier auto focus.
  6. Not too familiar with Olympus, but on Panasonic you can map focus peaking to a button to toggle it on off, even in AF mode.
  7. GoPro with either a light or red filter. Some of the GoPro clones are also good, as in recent years many people have had issues with GoPros freezing up or generally being slightly unfinished products. If you want to go one step beyond this get a compact (no need for wetlenses at this stage) and a redfilter and take manual white balances as you change depth. My wife has had pretty good results with an old lumix lx7 (which is quite an old camera) and a keldan spectrum filter. A camera like todays LX10/15 will likely do even better. This will increase quality massively, but will require slightly more effort than just handing someone the camera and say: "Press record".
  8. Unless you are a seasoned DSLR shooter and swear on using the OVF get a mirrorless. For people coming from a compact with no experience with SLRs it is a much smoother transition as the only thing that really changes are the interchangeable lenses. Sensor size depends on your budget, willingness to carry heavy gear and willingness to make (fairly small) compromises on IQ. In my opinion if you don’t want to print larger than 60x40cm Micro Four Thirds is good enough. If you want to go larger you might want more pixels. Low light advantages of FF get eaten up by requirements for higher apertures so I don’t think they’re all that relevant.
  9. Wetlenses often seem to sell for a decent amount, maybe even 80% of new. Strobes also hold their value relatively well. Might be smarter to just sell those and one strobe. Keep the housing with standard Port and live with the built in zoomrange. This would make the setup considerably lighter without loosing so much money on the trade. The housing difference between a TG6 and RX100 is not so much anyway.
  10. Sometimes I get the feeling UW photo manufacturers don’t actually want to sell their products…
  11. Gulen in Norway is supposed to be a great macro destination, too, but obviously cold water. Maybe something to consider. Not been there myself, but it's high on my list.
  12. I think unterwasserkamera.at sells an Adapter, but I can't find it on their shop. I think they produce them themselves, so probably would have to ask. They are likely not cheap though.
  13. Not direct but going through Amsterdam is not too bad.
  14. As Interceptor121 has already said, the EM1X has a completely different target audience compared to the A7C. The A7C has as far as I know only one control dial and that pretty much says it all. Also, it really is not a camera that anyone sane would take underwater and I was surprised when Nauticam announced a housing for it. They must have sold in the low single digits... In the end, both mu43 and FF have their raison d'être. Alex already pointed it out, but our job as experienced and knowledgable underwater photographers is to guide people to a sensible decision. Both Formats have their strengths and weaknesses. Personally, I believe that unless you know the exact reason for why you need a FF camera (more specific than "I need better Image quality) you should probably not buy one. There are plenty of cases where a smaller rig would probably lead to better results because the photographer behind the camera is out of his depth with the gear he has. On the other Hand @Tom_Kline has provided plenty of reasons for why a FF DSLR is the superior option for his kind of shooting style. People just need to understand that everyone has their own perspective based on what, where and how they shoot and take that into consideration when making their own choices about gear. I would say that this thread already showed that a simple FF is better or Mu43 is better just does not cut it.
  15. I think the suggestion of the AOI EPL-9/10 is a good one. If you're focused on macro, I feel compact cameras are not the best, because like a kit lens on your fuji they generally don't have true macro lenses, with the exception of the Olympus Tough series, which has a much smaller sensor to allow for that.
  16. I think the way forward on compact wide angle is adapting one of the fisheye zooms to MFT. Long term I'm planning to go that way, but it's also an expensive solution and I'm contemplating to switch housing brands because Nauticams tiny N85 port drives me nuts...
  17. 8mm rectilinear in a 4" port would have probably been very dodge in terms of corner performance anyway. I'd expect it work in similar ports/extensions as the 8-18 from panasonic, but I'm not sure about the extending bit of the lens.
  18. Just look at Sony, which is the most developed mirrorless FF system. They still don't have a first party fisheye. With the exception of tilt-shift lenses Fisheye lenses are dead last on the priority list of manufacturers,
  19. Lightroom doesn't care about the subset of customers who hate the change, especially because many still got a subscription in the end (e.g. I did when I wanted to access LR Mobile on iPad, which is amazing). Since they introduced this system they have increased their profits significantly and that is all they care about. They don't give a shit about customer's feelings.
  20. f12 or f16 shouldn't be in the area where diffraction is really a problem for most systems (it scales with sensor size). On MFT diffraction will start to become noticable when pixel peeping on image tests at about f11, but in real world application I would say f16 is where the limit is. However you also need to adjust the apertures mentioned in the video to sensor size, so if Adam says f16 (on FF) on mft you would be using around f8.
  21. That post is still regularly updated and still seems to be going on...
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