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skir67

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About skir67

  • Rank
    Clownfish

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D7000
  • Camera Housing
    Nimar
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240
  1. Nauticam Nikon D7000 Housing with Nauticam rope carry handle and Lumb Bros Lanyard. Rubber on handles rather worn, but no effect on usage. Never flooded. £350 Ports are for Nikon F, N120 series. Nauticam 4.33" dome port. I used it with a Tokina fisheye lens. Comes with protective neoprene cover. £250 Nauticam Macro Port 60, £200 (boxed) Nauticam Extension ring 20, £150 (boxed) Inon Z240 strobe and optical cable £270 Ultralight control arms, 9" inch and 6" inch (to end of balls) - £45 for the pair Ultralight Clamps (hold strong still) x3 - £15 each or £40 for all three. Sea and Sea 5 pin electrical strobe cable (suitable for a different housing) - £20 Also if wanted a Nikon D7000 camera with only 9253 actuations, £130 (for sale also elsewhere). Will come boxed with battery and accessories, but no charger. Take the whole bundle for a great starter kit for £1200 Delivery will be extra, but at cost to your location. Let me know where you are and I will find out costs. Import costs if buying from abroad are the responsibility of the buyer, please work out what you might be liable for there yourself.
  2. Can't see myself wanting to take continuous shots underwater, but you never know! Interesting to se companies are making something for this, though I couldn't find a website for uw technics, though the article you linked did mention they were in the process of setting up a website.
  3. Thanks Adam. To be honest I think there are probably better ways to get optical ttl if I want it. And as I will probably replace my housing with something else which allows more camera functions to be accessed with better ergonomics this will probably be when I can get sttl on the inon if I decide I want that feature. You mention the battery drain and flash recycle time using optical triggering as downsides, but are there other disadvantages of this method? I currently have the camera flash in manual mode at 1/128 is that a good starting point? I found a thread on here detailing an electro/optical convertor, but it looks like the guy who was making it stopped production owing to the difficulty of coming up with something that would work with every camera/housing combination, there was another one too, but that one seemed to not get even that far.
  4. Thanks, useful info. Live view is sub-optimal for sure, but my only option for the time being, so I'll have to make the best of it. I've got a second battery which will cover that on a daily basis, the other stuff I'll just have to live with.
  5. message sent and e-mailed from uwp mag.
  6. That's good to know. Is it normally the case that you have to get this work professionally done?
  7. yes, pretty much what I said above. I'm going to keep an eye out for a Nauticam I think. They seem to have all the features I want and in fact there is one in the classifieds at the moment that I'm following up on. That would give me a good housing and then at a later stage when funds allow and I've learnt more I can invest in a second strobe and some form of additional viewfinder if I find (no pun intended) I need it. Any ideas on what the view is like on a Nauticam housing? I appreciate it will also depend on the camera being used, but what are they like generally?
  8. On my housing the view through the viewfinder is to my mind is more or less unusable. All the screen information is so small as to be unintelligible. With a mask on I can only imagine this situation will be worse. I've only had the housing underwater once so far and that was really just a test dive and then I used live view. I think I'll keep using live view with this housing. But, undoubtedly there are going to be disadvantages to this. What are the disadvantages of using live view? Two that spring to mind are possibly slowing focusing and shortened battery time. Is there any way I can improve the viewfinder view or is this normal and something you learn to live with? I don't intend to spend any more money on this housing other than on things that can be transferred to a replacement so maybe a 45 degree viewfinder is out. Or, are there universal viewfinders that can be easily moved from one housing to another?
  9. However it still looks like you have to have a hole cut in the housing to take it. Plus the entire cost would have me on the way towards a better overall housing. The ergonomics are not very good on my current one and it does not give access to all of the camera controls. My biggest gripe is the inability to use the ae-l/af-l button which I normally use for back button focusing. Also I cannot change the focus mode button. I'll probably use this housing in the interim and then try and get a decent second hand unit. I like the look of the nauticam housing.
  10. scratch the above comment, further investigation found this on the trttl website: Can I use TURTLE in old housing without optical sync window?Yes, of-course, because we can give you a special plastic window for the old housing which is like an electronic connector, but contains an LED at the dry side and a normal optical hole in the wet side. This way you can connect the fiber optic cable to this special port.
  11. maybe, but I'd have to have the housing modified to take them and I'm not sure that's even possible.
  12. yes, as I'm new to all of this, the wireless capability has me intrigued, of course it might be nearly useless in a real world scenario. I 'think' I've answered my own question on the ttl plate. The plate only has 3 holes for pins and and of course my plug has five pins so it does not fit, as simple as that I guess. I couldn't see the wood for the trees (well the manual in this case).
  13. My housing does not have ports for fibre optic connections, but the turtle website suggests it can be used wirelessly which would in theory work as my housing is transparent. The housing is this: http://www.nimar.it/en/d-slr/273-housing-nikon-d7000-body.html Does anyone have any advice on the ttl plate between the housing sync connector and the cable?
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