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Everything posted by IMSushi

  1. No idea, but I have a brand new one, TTL II, for sale! Still in the box. Let me know!
  2. Teamu, Your port & extension ring selection looks good. May offer one piece of advice. I went round and round with Sea and Sea about the zoom gear for the 17-70 (non-HSM) I'm not sure which you have, but I'll tell my story anyway. Some at S&S say that that lens is not supported, which I know is rediculous. Then I got some one who finally knew the zoom gear for a Nikkor 18-35 (56350) was the correct one. It arrived, I tried the zoom gear and it didn't fit! I immediately called our local S&S rep. He had no really good answer for me except to return it and pay an additional restocking fee. He still didn't know which gear to get that would fit. The deal here is that on the lens is a little lock switch to stop the lens from zooming. Well, that same little switch stops the zoom gear from being able to fit on the barrel of the lens. I was left with two options: 1) Return the zoom gear, 2) keep the gear in case it would come in handy in the future and cut a notch a couple of millimeters in to the ring so it would it over the lock switch. I'm still looking for a good way to get it done professionally. On a side note, the same zoom gear that you use for the 10-17 (Canon 16-35, #31114) will fit nicely over the lock switch of the 17-70. Just use a little tape on the barrel of the 17-70 to build it up a bit to fit snuggly. Even the fluffy side of Velcro will work.
  3. reefkeep, yes it is normal for there to be a little "play" in the port/extension ring connections. I agree that at first it is pretty unnerving, but as soon as you get in the water, the pressure of the water pushes them together. As long as you have properly maintained your O-ring, it will be fine. Always test it first without a camera when you first get your housing. As well, always dunk test your set up in the camera bucket or in the water. Look for a stream of bubbles that would indicate a leak! Also, only the first extension ring or port will be actually locked by the S&S locking mechanism. Everything is marked with an "OPEN" and "LOCKED" mark. I've made it a habit to always look at those before I get in the water and every-now-and-then when I'm shooting under water. It is pretty obvious if your dome gets turned while attached to an extension ring...the shades are off center. Even if it does get turned, it's not the end of the world. You actually need to turn it pretty far and apply a lot of force to get those things apart on the surface.
  4. Also a question for Alex, I was disappointed in the corner sharpness of my 17-70 (non HSM) at the wide end. I see that a couple of your pictures above suffer from the same. Is this normal for this lens? I was using mine behind a S&S Optical Dome (6in/15cm) and thinking about purchasing the larger NX Dome to hopefully resolving the issue.
  5. Well. I think I'll probably keep the Zoom Gear and follow David's advice of filing a notch in the Ring. That way I'll have another toy and, who knows?, it might come in handy in the future on another lens.
  6. It seems that new TTL III's are going for this price. So, in light of the holidays, I'm dropping the price of my new Nikon TTL II Converter to $300. Surely there is someone with an older set-up that can use one of these.
  7. OK, this is a follow-up question to one I posted a few weeks ago about which Extension Ring, Zoom Gear and Dome Port for a Sigma 17-70 using Sea & Sea. Their recommendation was to use a 40mm Extension Ring, SX Extension Ring and NX Fisheye Dome Port. I already own the Optical Dome and it seems to work very well with the other recommended extensions...so far. The Zoom Gear is my problem! They recommended the #56350 (Nikkor 18-35mm) for use with the Sigma 17-70mm (non-HSM). On the lens, there is a lock switch for locking the zoom of the lens and fixing it at 17mm. That switch is about 2mm above the rest of the barrel and prevents the Zoom Gear from slipping onto the barrel of the lens. Seemingly, my options are to remove the protruding part of the switch by filing it down or to use a larger diameter Zoom Gear to fit over the switch as is and tape up the barrel to fit the larger diameter Gear. What has anyone else done? Or, what would you recommend?? Thanks!
  8. I have a brand spanking new Sea and Sea TTL II Converter for Nikon (50108) for sale in the box. It has never been in the water. It has never even been attached to a camera housing or strobe cables. The reason I am trying to sell it is that I purchased it when the Converter III came out and never returned it. So, its been sitting here gathering dust. I want to give it a good home. If you want a picture of it, I'll have to open the box. Let me know? New at Reef Photo it runs $599usd. New at Backscatter it runs $649usd. I would like $450! I'll even ship within the US.
  9. John, that's a great set of shots! What lens were you using for the macros? I just came back from Cozumel and couldn't get some of those picts with my 60mm. Maybe a 105? Diopter? Thanks!
  10. First off, Thanks Ryan for getting back to me. The gal at the shop wasn't sure and was going to get back to me...later. The info you provided is great! I agree, I'm not too in love with acrylic domes. :-) Scott, I think, if I'm reading Ryan's post correctly, I already have most of what I need. I already have the Optical Glass Dome an the SX Extension Ring. All I need now is the 40mm Ring and I'm good! I'll go that route first and get back to you. Then later if I need it I'll think about the large NX Dome. Ryan, one more quick question. Which zoom gear? Maybe the same as the Tokina 10-17 (made for the Canon 16-35)? Or other?
  11. I just got back from St. Croix, which of course is USVI, but the diving was outstanding! How many places can you beach entry a 3500 fsw. wall dive only 100 yards off the beach? (rhetorical question ) I only spent 2 days diving Cane Bay and have to say... I'll be back.
  12. I dove with Big Island Divers and had a wonderful time. If you like the smaller 6-pack boats, give these guys a try!
  13. I wonder why they didn't recommend an NX Fisheye Dome Port with 40mm Ring. That was the way I was leaning, If you had to do it over again, would you still buy the same gear for this lens?
  14. OK, I know this lens has been discussed backwards and forwards, but bear with me for a second. I've searched this site until my eyes hurt, Called Backscatter and Reef Photo. No one knows what port combination to use for the Sigma 17-70 on a Sea & Sea housing. Can anyone help me out here? Even a link to previously discussed topic would be greatly appreciated! I use a D80 and already have the SX Extension Ring and Optical Dome Port that I use for my Tokina 10-17. Thanks Again!
  15. I humbly disagree with this. My P-5000 will easily read my 8GB SDHC cards in the SD slot. Maybe it is a firmware issue? I recently purchased mine in Dec. '07.
  16. Damien, since you are going to be in San Francisco anyway, why not drive down to Monterey, 2-3 hours form S.F. It would save you a plane flight tha you might otherwise take to LA just to go out to the Channel Islands, Catalina/San Clemente/Anacapa etc. You would still get to experience "the kelp" and much of the same fish species. If you like wrecks, the Oriskany would be great! as would many areas along the east coast, too many to mention. I've never been there, so someone with more experience there should chime in. If you don't mind 3-4 day live aboards, you might consider Flower Banks in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico. Many great dive sites are in Florida, Key Largo and other Keys, but since you mentioned going to the Bahamas you might run into many of the same fish and coral species there as in Fl. What about fresh water spring snorkeling with the Manatee in Florida? Bottom line is there is so much to see and such diversity, you could spend months, or more :-), diving around the US! Take a look through some of the photo galleries and decide what you want to see or experience.
  17. Ryan, I have the P-5000. I love it! I have 20GB of music on it, loads of RAW formatted pictures, and I'm planning on putting a couple of movies on it for my upcoming trip. I'm heading to Cozumel in a couple of weeks and then turning right around and hitting St. Maarten for a business meeting. You bet I'm taking my dive gear and camera. With all of this gear, I don't want to duplicate things like an iPod, laptop, hard drive, or card readers. I have it all in one package! Yes, buying memory cards may be cheaper these days, but I can review my picts in RAW and connect it to a TV to see them where ever I am to review/cull/ show off. Plus,if I don't erase the files after download, I automatically have a duplicate backup. It has a crystal clear screen with zoom capabilities. Also,it has card ports to accept all currently manufactures cards including SDHC. Off the top of my head, it will play all formats of pictures, music, and movies (except MOVIES downloaded from Apple.com iTunes) Not sure why this is. Maybe I'll figure it out someday. Apple probably just wants you to buy the iPhone to watch their movies.
  18. Seems to me that by adding the second strobe you are losing contrast. To me, on my monitor, uncalibrated iMac, the colors look fine. But, by adding the second strobe you lose the depth and shadowing. If perhaps you could turn one of the strobes down by a couple of stops. I use the S&S TTL III with dual YS-110's and have the same problems as you. It is a problem I'm trying to overcome as well, and it happens when I pull back from my macro shots on the same subject and on CFWA shots if I'm too far away to make the TTL effective.
  19. The Tok 2.8 10-17 would be a great lens for an aquarium. Super close focus. Quick focus. And, if the "fish eye" effect is too much for you, use the 17 end. The curvature isn't as dramatic as the wide end.
  20. Steve, is that a dry hood and gloves? Cause, if not... Damn! Still, a trip of a life time! Lets see a few more after you have time to recover.
  21. Bruce, I think the Optical D Cable is a generic all purpose cable that is supposed to connect to all types of cameras. Of course, the larger, screw end connects to the strobe, but the bare end goes into the Cap W to be held out in front of the camera's flash. So, you know you need to set the camera to "force flash". If none of the parts from Inon can be McGyvered or Jerry Rigged, I think the easiest thing to do is to use a wire stripper. Remove about a 1/16" of the black plastic covering from the end of the fiber optic cable. Use black electrical tape to tape it to the housing in front of the flash. It would be important to completely cover the bare end of the fiber with the tape so no stray light from another photographer or the sun could accidentally set off the strobe. Not pretty, but it would work! Good Luck!
  22. I've been to Kauai a few times now and only once to scuba. It quickly became apparent to me that I could see just as much with a mask and snorkel that I could with a tank on my back. We always stay at Poipu Beach on the other side of the island, south, from Princeville. Poipu has gorgeous reefs that are in 0 - 15' easily snorkelable from the beach. Just my opinion... But if the scuba fever hits you, get on a boat that will take you over to Ni'ihau. Definitely the best scuba on "Kauai". The ride across the channel is rough so bring a seat cushon! :-) The boats leave out of Port Allen/Hanapepe.
  23. Hey, RS! Yes, the D80 will accept SDHC cards. You are correct that when the camera came out, anything greater than a 4GB SD was almost unheard of. I use an 8GB SDHC made by ATP. I purchased it at Fry's, http://www.frys.com/ .I've had this card for almost a year and no problems...yet. A seriously fast card, both read and write!
  24. Hey, David, give this a thought. If you don't mind moving across the country, the University of California Santa Barbara, UCSB, has a Marine Biology major. You've got to remember that a good solid knowledge base is essential! You're going to need business skills, computer skills, and of course the science knowledge. When you're done with that, you can check out Brooks Institute, also in Santa Barbara. They offer courses specifically in Underwater Photography. All the while, you can be brushing up on your diving skills and photography in and around beautiful So. Cal. Santa Barbara area and the Channel Islands Marine Sanctuary. Had I known then what I know now... Best of luck!
  25. I'm deciding a really close race between 2 & 3. In 1 & 4, the action has already happened and the moment is over. I love the colors in 3. Aqua water and purple sky. Nice symmetry. In #2, I agree with Jeremy that it might be better as a tighter crop without so much foam in the foreground. But, it evokes more feeing from me than any of the others and...it makes me want to go surfing! It puts me in the scene, maybe even in the tube of the wave. OK, now I'm just starting to sound stupid. #2 for me!
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