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Everything posted by IMSushi

  1. My suggestion would be to get a marine housing from Sony for your P100. I know that can be had on ebay still. I've been shooting a P10 for the last few years and have quite a few good pictures. Just my guess, but one reason your friend's husband's pictures may not have been up to par is the lack of a strobe. When I bought an Inon D2000 strobe, tray, and AD Mount base to add to the set-up, my pictures went to that next step! If you go this route, you'll spend a fraction of the money you would on housing your Canon XT. While only diving a couple of times per year, this might be another option for you with a camera you already have. I'd highly recommend using a strobe, even in crystal clear water. If the internal flash of the camera goes off, the likelyhood of the picture being ruined with backscatter goes way up. Here are a couple of picts I took with my DSC- P10. I know the P100 has more functionality than mine, so you could do even better! Good luck.
  2. Augusto, When I originally ordered, I had ordered the TTL II, but a couple days after the order went in I looked on the Sea & Sea US site and found it under DX-D80 accessories. I called the Sea & Sea office myself to change the order because it hadn't shipped yet. And, fortunately they some in stock to release. One of the main US Sea & Sea offices is here in Southern California not too far from my house. I don't know if that helped or not? I had actually called Sea & Sea previously to confirm that my order made sense and that I wasn't missing anything. My LDS, local dive shop, doesn't know much about underwater photography and finding the rep. was nearly impossible. So, I did all of the research into what I needed myself, then had the LDS do the actual ordering. I kind of went around the shop when I changed my order. You are in Brazil, correct? Try finding the phone number of the Regional distributer to deal directly with them. See if they have one they could send to your dealer.
  3. Dan, Thanks for your informative reply. All of my pictures were shot in NEF-RAW and JPEG. When I up-loaded the picture to this thread I actually e-mailed it to myself and moved the picture to my desktop so it was easier to find. When I did this, Aperture automatically chose the JPEG version to send. BTW, the 3 pictures I posted were untouched by PS or Aperture to hopefully show more accurately what the TTL III was doing. I did, just now, go back to Aperture and work with the picture a little more. Opening the aperture and increasing the contrast did a pretty good job. Now to work on focus! I need to respectfully disagree with the diagnosis of a speck of dust. If that were true, the speck would show up in every picture, no? It was just a really bad day for wide angle with so much"schmutz" (technical term) in the water.
  4. Thanks Augusto and Espen! Yea, I think it was strobe positioning. Like I said, there is a fairly big learning curve with 2 strobes. Most of the close up macro shots came out very nice. It was only when I went to fish portraits or pulled away slightly to include more background that the white hue showed up. Can't wait to go try it out again!
  5. So here is an example of what I think is incorrect lighting, either by incorrect strobe positioning or a failing TTL? I'm really asking a question why the "white haze" is in this picture and a few other I took? What causes this? Please don't mind the fact that the picture isn't in sharp focus. As explained earlier, I was dealing with a number of other issues. Not every picture I take of a moving fish is in focus!
  6. OK there needs to be a big disclaimer here. I really want to post a few pictures from my very first dive with an SLR set up. This has been a huge "culture shock" of sorts comming from a small point and shoot. The surge and currents were really bad this weekend around the Channel Islands and I'm surprised anything was in focus. Those dual arms act like sails and really push you around. Kind of fun if you like carnival rides!! I was on the Raptor with Ventura Dive & Sport for the first time also. I've got to say the boat and crew surpassed my expectations. Very friendly and helpfull getting this monster in and out of the water with me! I've got to say, the boat will get a little crowded if there is a full load of divers and equipment. They don't allow you to take your dive bag on board with you. Empty it into the crate under your seat and leave it on the dock. The S&S TTL III worked very well, I thought. The problem, if any, came from me not getting my strobes pointed correctly. I kind of thought TTL would work with my f-stop and aperture settings to increase or decrease the output from the strobes. I still had to do a lot of resetting of the aperture between shots to get something that was lit properly. The histograms for most of the shots showed a nice bell curve not too far off of center, if that is any consolation? Not having used another system, I don't know any better? So here goes a couple of better picts. Bat Star Spanish Shawl, "Flabellina iodinia"
  7. I also use DAN's H2Oinsurance. Seemed with the way things are changing in the electronics/camera world, if anything were to happen to my stuff, it would give me a good opportunity/reason to upgrade. BTW, you have to be a DAN member already to qualify for H2Oinsurance.
  8. I love #2! It looks like a top side scene at sunset complete with radio towers on the background mountains. Cool!
  9. Maybe about 4 minutes of download on my slower DSL, but looks fantastic! BTW, I keep forwarding your links to a friend who is just starting up in the HD realm of video. He thinks your stuff is awsome!
  10. Going this comming Sunday! I'll let you know. Only 2 dives will get the camera treatment. The first will be with the housing alone, no camera, just to test leak possibility. It'll probably when I see my first Great White or maybe a family of Giant Black Sea Bass come strolling by. Ha!
  11. Augusto, I've had the whole rig for 2 weeks and only used the TTL III in the pool. So far flawless! I have thought the exposures were a little to hot, so I have it dialed down to -1.0. Looks great. The new design with the strobe cables comming out of the top instead of the sides I thought would be a little awkward, but after you have the whole thing set up, it really is more ergonomic. The cable from the TTL unit to the housing just needs to do a little loop to attach and it doesn't get in the way of a focus light. Unfortunately, with the cable bulkheads facing up, same as the S&S housing, I think it will make it irresistable for warter drops to flow down onto the pins unless you are extremely carefull. I'm already carrying a fist full of Q-tips to dab the water out! The real test is going to be next weekend when I can finally jump into the salt and baptize my new baby!! I'll post pictures.
  12. That shot makes my nose itch just thinking about it! :-)
  13. Could be a Planarian with it's tenticles retracted? They are usually much smaller and white though.
  14. Thanks for clearing that up. OK, I'm not wasting money... I'm not wasting money. Really, honey, I'm not wasting money.
  15. I don't know why I never noticed this before, but maybe someone with more knowledge of Sea & Sea housings than myself can help out. The S&S housing for a D80 already has a focus knob built into it, used with additional focus gear of course. Does this make the NX Custom Flat Port unwarrented and I could have just gone with the standard NX Flat Port? I haven't taken the rig into the ocean yet, maybe S&S will swap out ports for me if I purchased something unneeded?? Thanks!
  16. Steve, you said you prefer the fish scale method. $5-20 US, but you can't measure ounces on any scale I've found at West Marine or Boater's World. Everything measures in 2 pound increments, unless you spent $80, in which case it's getting a little ridiculous. What scale would you use? I could also hang it from a letter scale above the swimming pool? Of course, I could do the high school math and fing the weight of water displaced subtracted from the dry weight to find buoyancy, but that seems like so much trouble to go through. Couldn't I buy something? That would be sooooo much more fun!
  17. Hi all! I've just got my complete S&S DX-D80 rig in the water over at our swimming pool (fresh H2O). TTL III, YS-110 x 2, 60mm lens and ULCS regular 8" buoyancy arms x 4. The thing is still negative! I don't know by how much. Not really surprising, but still more neg. than I want. Now, I can exchange the regular buoyancy arms for the "ultra" buoyancy arms as long as they don't hit salt. So, my question: The spring scales used for weighing fish are not really accurate enough to give me negative weight in ounces. Is there another place I can purchase a more accurate scale tht will give me buoyant weight down into the ounces range? I'm going to feel really funny with a pair of 12" "ultra" buoyancy arms for macro!? That's one BIG "W"!
  18. Thanks guys! Your insight and past experiences help a lot.
  19. Maybe this was covered in a previous topic, but I couldn't find it. The others skirted the issue. On a live-aboard using a DSLR housing, do you remove any of the O-rings over night? or just leave the cables connected and the back plate , strobe battery seals, and port firmly locked on? For longer periods, say 1 month, between dives is it necesary or remove synch cable o-rings, port o-rings, and the main housing o-ring? With my P&S, I always took the main housing o-ring and strobe battery seal off and left them in a Zip-Lock baggie if I wasn't diving for a month.
  20. Well, this is a definite "how to" question. I see beautiful portrait shots all the time in magazines, books, even here, but I have never seen a picture, or live person for that matter, of anyone actually taking a verticle! I just finally bit the bullet and bought my first S&S DSLR set up with dual YS-110's. Could someone share their experiences with strobe positioning for either wide angle portraits or even macro portraits. A picture is worth a thousand words or so they say. Maybe even a picture of your set up ready for a vert. shot or a picture of somone else doing the deed! My fragile little mind is about to explode with the pain of moving those huge arms every time I see the perfect pose. Thanks! You guy are always a big help.
  21. Anyone know if the buoyancy tests the Berkley did with the strobes was with or without batteries?? Obviously, this could affect the buotancy greatly! I read the article and never came across this information.
  22. Yea, I saw that prosthetic contraption that was made for Winter on TV. I guess she needs to work on the up-down motion used by most dolphin's tails as opposed to the side to side that she has perfected to propell her without tail flukes. Very Cool!
  23. Uh, Dave, you're not a Mac guy are you? There are quite a few games to play on a Mac...all the big ones anyway. You just have to know where to go to get them. Can't upgrade? Just two months ago I upgraded, myself, my SDRAM on my iMac so I could run Aperture. When you get into it back there, there are quite a few things, surprisingly, that can be easily removed and replaced. And, unlike a PC, a Mac will continue to NOT be obsolete for at least 5 years. By that time the OS and hardware need upgrading and it is cheaper to just get a new computer. Sorry. Not starting a flame, just informing. Everyone has their preferences. Canon or Nikon! :-)
  24. Hey Larry, I have a question about your photo that is posted here. It looks like you are in about 10 fsw or so with good sun light. Did you use strobes to fill the shadows or some filter like a Magic? The colors seem so bright and vivid. Excellent!
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